However, AutoCAD lacks in some areas, such as 3D modeling, its weak Linux support, and how expensive it is: as of writing, AutoCAD is $1,975 per year, and AutoCAD LT is $490 per year.

In my opinion, there are several free alternative programs for hobbyists that, while not as robust as AutoCAD, still do a perfectly acceptable job.

Why Trust Us?

I have extensively tested all of the following programs (and many that didn’t make the list) during my years of professional engineering, so you can save time finding the top free program for you.

That said, here are the criteria we used to determine whether or not a free, similar software to AutoCAD made the list:

How We Picked

• It has to be either completely free, or at least free to try.
• It has to support DWG and DXF file types. 
• It should have a high level of user support through tutorials, active forums, or detailed wikis.
• Bonus points if it supports Linux.

1. DoubleCAD: Best for Architects and Interior Designers

• Price: Free

If you want a free alternative to AutoCAD LT, look no further than DoubleCAD. It’s the best free software for professional 2D design. DoubleCAD is ideal for architects, interior designers, and anybody with professional 2D design needs.

If you’re familiar with AutoCAD, the transition to DoubleCAD is pretty easy since the program logic and commands are similar. There are also helpful tutorials and forum threads to walk you through the process.

Although DoubleCAD is not as powerful as AutoCAD’s full version, it is as capable as AutoCAD LT. Some users even like some of DoubleCAD’s tools better than their AutoCAD counterparts.

DoubleCAD has specialized architecture tools for editing walls, doors, and windows. So, it’s geared toward the same audience as AutoCAD: architects and interior designers.

However, DoubleCAD only works on Windows, so you can’t use it on MacOS or Linux.

2. NanoCAD: Best for Small Businesses

• Price: Free to use, even commercially, but there is a $200 USD per year paid version.

While DoubleCAD is the best alternative to AutoCAD LT, NanoCAD is the best free alternative to AutoCAD’s full version. 

In fact, NanoCAD followed AutoCAD’s design theory so closely that you could be forgiven for mistaking one for the other. Thus, if you have previous AutoCAD experience, you’ll have no trouble using NanoCAD.

The logic behind the features such as the snapping tools are not as precise as AutoCAD, but once you learn them, NanoCAD is a pretty powerful free software. 

You can register NanoCAD with your e-mail for free and use it commercially, with no hidden paywalls. Though, there are plenty of 3rd party add-ons that you can buy. Developers have created add-ons that bring more functionality, bringing great scalability to the software. 

For example, designers can use 3D Solid Modeling add-on to bring parametric modeling and direct modeling capabilities to NanoCAD for $199 per year. 

Or, architects can pay for the Construction add-on to get access to many AEC tools, parametric objects, architectural layouts, and more, for $199 per year.

While these add-ons aren’t essential to the main software functionality, you may want to buy one of these add-ons to enhance your designs in a specific area.

So, technically as there are optional add-ons, the base program is still completely free. It’s an effective free alternative to paid software like AutoCAD – and it’s free if you don’t buy the add-ons.

3. LibreCAD: Best for Hobbyists

• Price: Completely free and open source. It’s GPLv2, so it’s free to hack and copy.

LibreCAD is a good choice if you’re looking for an effective 2D CAD program. 

However, LibreCAD is focused on ease of use and simplicity, and not advanced features. For professional 2D drafting and documentation, you should use DoubleCAD or NanoCAD.

LibreCAD is a great pick for someone who is looking to generate geometry for a CNC router, laser cutter, waterjet cutter, vinyl cutter, or any other CNC application that doesn’t require a 3D model. One of the main reasons I recommend LibreCAD for 2D designing for CNCs is its emphasis on layers. 

Anyone who has used a similar CAD program can attest to the value of being able to create and organize different layers in their drawings. LibreCAD does this very well and helps you organize your drawings. 

For example, you’ll draw the axes in one layer, the centerlines in another layer, and parts in a separate one. Entities can inherit attributes like color from their layer. Just like AutoCAD, you can assign line type, line weight, and color for layer entities in LibreCAD.

One of the things you’ll notice right after installation is the ability to change units of measurement and languages. It’s a small detail, but it’s strong evidence of the mentality behind the program. Not just free. Not just open source. But, also, widely usable to a broad audience. They have somehow managed to get the program translated into over thirty languages: an impressive feat.

Another small function I love is the right-click history menu. Right-click in the viewport window and you’ll be presented with a list of the last few tools that you used. While this is not a groundbreaking feature, it is certainly a nod in the direction of the ease of use that LibreCAD is built around.

You can see an example in my screenshot below:

4. FreeCAD: Best for 3D Modelers

• Price: FreeCAD is completely free and open source.

It’s literally in the name: FreeCAD’s mission statement is to provide an always-free, open-source CAD software. And they’ve done a wonderful job. 

Geared toward 3D design, FreeCAD is superior to AutoCAD in 3D parametric modeling. It has plenty of features for 3D tools that AutoCAD simply doesn’t have, such as the extensive toolset in the Parts Workbench, and compatibility with mechanical engineering software like Nastran. 

But what about 2D drafting? I hear you ask.

FreeCAD’s Draft Workbench is good enough to replace AutoCAD, but FreeCAD can’t save or open AutoCAD’s DWG files. So, you can’t use FreeCAD as a direct AutoCAD alternative for working on DWG files.

One of the excellent features that you’ll find in FreeCAD is their utilization of workbenches. Workbenches are tools, organized by the tasks that they are related to. It adds a level of nimbleness to the program that I promise you will be grateful for. For example, the Draft workbench has all the tools for 2D drawing, the Arch workbench has architectural tools, and the Surface workbench gives you tools for creating surfaces.

One of the biggest hurdles to overcome when learning any new CAD software is the overwhelming amount of tool options presented to you. Workbenches are an effective way to reduce those options to the ones that matter most for your specific project. FreeCAD’s popularity means there’s a huge amount of user support. Not only is there an active forum and a well-curated wiki, but there’s also a large selection of YouTube training videos. In addition, the makers of FreeCAD have put together tutorials, as well as a CAD manual under the Creative Commons 4.0 license that is free to be used, downloaded, copied and modified. They’re even working on a printed version.

5. Autodesk Fusion 360: Best for CAD/CAM Use

• Price: Fusion 360 is free to use, but requires a $60 USD monthly subscription if used commercially.

Fusion 360 is a powerful 3D software focused on modeling, so it’s not a good replacement for AutoCAD if you’re an architect. However, if you need drafting for 3D printing a part or CNC machining, Fusion 360 is an excellent tool.

It’s honestly amazing that Fusion 360 is available to use for free. Personally, I use it almost every day. Fusion 360 can be used for anything from part design, sketches, and prints, to highly complex assemblies. It even has native CAM features also, if you’re looking to CNC mill parts you design.

For example, when my kids come home from school, they hang their backpacks on hooks that we designed and 3D printed together. A few days ago, my son, who is getting into video game design, came to me and asked if I could help him model a Warhammer for his game. With Fusion 360, we designed the 3D printed brackets that hold up the shelves his 3D printed miniatures are on. 

I could go on with these stories all day, but the point is, if you have any interest in 3D printing, part design, or anything at all to do with 3D modeling, then go download Fusion 360. You won’t regret it.  

Fusion 360 is a feature-filled powerhouse that just so happens to be made by Autodesk, the same company that makes AutoCAD. While its emphasis is on 3D modeling, its 2D capabilities are perfectly capable of handling most applications.

While it may not be as beginner friendly as some of the programs on this list, there are a huge range of online tutorials, including those by Autodesk themselves. And, if you’ve ever used Solidworks before, you’ll pick up Fusion 360 extremely quickly.

6. Sketchup Free: Browser-Based CAD for Beginners

• Price: Sketchup Free is free to use non-commercially. The cheapest commercial version is $119 USD a year.

SketchUp Free is an excellent tool that many architects, interior designers, woodworkers, and hobbyists use instead of AutoCAD because it’s better than AutoCAD in some aspects. However, this depends on your needs since there are serious differences between SketchUp and AutoCAD.

For starters, SketchUp is much easier to use than AutoCAD. Beginners will start modeling much faster in SketchUp and they will be able even to make animations. Meanwhile, beginners will have to spend more time learning AutoCAD’s commands and user interface.

Another area where SketchUp is better than AutoCAD is its 3D warehouse, where you can access over 4.8 million ready designs. You can unlock its full capabilities in SketchUp’s paid version but even the free version allows limited access to the 3D warehouse. 

Another excellent feature is SketchUp’s Walk tool. You can walk through your model as the camera shows the model through your perspective. For example, you can design a kitchen and walk through it virtually to see the design. Interior design is easier with SketchUp for these reasons.

However, AutoCAD is for professionals and SketchUp can’t fill its place in many areas. The main difference is that SketchUp is a surface modeler, while AutoCAD performs parametric modeling. This means that when you need precision, scaling, and complexity, you can’t use SketchUp. AutoCAD is more robust and is the industry standard for complex projects.

7. OpenSCAD: Best for Non-Traditional Modeling 

• Price: Free software released under GPLv2

OpenSCAD throws convention out the window and tries to re-invent the way that people use CAD. Instead of clicking a UI with your mouse and drawing geometry, you program the part using code: you literally type the OpenSCAD scripting language into the text editor. 

So, for instance, to make a 10 side length cube you type: cube(10).

To be clear, there is no advantage to this method of modeling. It’s not faster, and there’s no scripting to automate design like you can with programming scripts, for example with Python.

However, if you’re a programmer by trade who has no CAD experience, you might be drawn to this style of CAD modeling.

Personally, I never want to CAD model like this, but I’ve included it in this list because many people enjoy this different and unique way of CAD modeling. To those people, I salute you and wish you all the best in your endeavors. 

I dove fairly deep into some OpenSCAD tutorials online, and they did a good job of covering the basics. So, if you’re curious about programming to create CAD drawings, there’s some good resources out there I recommend to learn. There is a decent little library of books dedicated to OpenSCAD, but none of them are free. There’s also the OpenSCAD cheat sheet which is helpful to refer to.

Other related articles:

• The best free CAD software
• The best free 2D CAD software
• The best Fusion 360 alternatives
• Best Thingiverse alternatives

This article will explain the differences between the iReal 2E and iReal M3, as well as how to choose the right 3D scanner based on your specific needs and goals.

Quick Verdict

Testing shows that the iReal M3 is capable of scanning humans and objects of different sizes and various materials with very precise accuracy, while the iReal 2E is designed for the human body and medium and large-sized objects larger than 30cm. 

The iReal M3 is the better option for very high-detail reproductions, with the iReal 2E more suited to projects where very intricate details are less important – like stoned sculptures and car floor mats, or if you don’t have the budget to use the M3.

The iReal 2E also requires a scanning spray to treat the surface to accurately scan black and reflective objects, while the M3 does not require this.

Differences Between iReal 2E and iReal M3

The common light source that both iReal M3 and iReal 2E utilize is infrared VCSEL structured light, referring to projecting infrared speckles for 3D reconstruction.

It supports invisible light scanning, hair scanning, and markers-free scanning (geometrical feature and texture data alignment), suitable for the human body and medium and large-sized sculptures.

The newly-launched iReal M3 dual-infrared laser 3D scanner added a different light source – 7 parallel infrared laser lines. This is a real difference-maker. 

Some of the main advantages compared with the infrared speckle mode include:

• No need to use scanning spray to treat the surface for most dark, black, and reflective objects.
• Higher accuracy for edge reconstruction and better detail reproduction.

This new light source makes up for the lack of infrared speckle when scanning items, especially when scanning items for industrial design, and small objects of 5-30cm.

For a more in-depth look into the differences in the performance is shown in the detailed data comparison below. This shows how the new infrared system compares during the 3D object scanning process.

As is clearly shown from these test 3D scans, you can see there are sharper details on many of the objects that were scanned. This is especially apparent when the iReal M3’s infrared parallel lasers scanned sharp edges, and intricate details, and produced far better results than the iReal 2E’s scans.

Additionally, large improvements in 3D scanning quality were seen when the iReal M3 scanned black surfaces, and shiny light surfaces – which are traditionally difficult for 3D scanners to capture accurately. The iReal M3 captured these objects, such as the black tire, far better than the 2E managed.

Therefore, I recommend the iReal M3 if you are working in reverse engineering and product design, industrial design, or if you need to scan wider objects (above 5cm), items with intricate detailing or corners, and shiny metal parts.

However, if you are aiming to scan human bodies, and larger objects above 30cm, then the iReal 2E is a fantastic, cost-effective choice. 

They range from standard 3D printing, to an all-in-one package with high-quality laser cutting, engraving, CNC, and dual extrusion printing. As such, they vary wildly in price and specs.

Snapmaker has created an impressive lineup of devices that work for a variety of different hobbyists and projects. In this article, we’ll cover the main selling points of each printer and which situations would make them a worthy purchase.

Let’s get started.

Snapmaker J1 vs Artisan vs 2.0 AT and F: A Quick Summary

Snapmaker J1

• Price: Check latest price at Snapmaker here
• Build volume: 300 x 200 x 200 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, HIPS, PC, TPU, TPE, PETG, ASA, PP, PVA, PA, PA-GF, PA-CF
• Layer height: 50 – 300 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 300°C
• Max bed temp: 100°C
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi, USB cable, USB flash drive

The Snapmaker J1 fits into an interesting niche compared to Snapmaker’s other 3D printers. It doesn’t have any of the multi-function capabilities of the Artisan or 2.0 models, but it does have IDEX (independent dual extruders).

These extruders open up a world of opportunities for 3D printing. You can use a wide range of filaments with it, like PLA, ABS, HIPS, and PC, as well as flexible filaments like TPU and TPE.

The J1 has a maximum extruder temperature of 300°C and a maximum bed temperature of 100°C. It includes an enclosure by default and uses a PEI glass plate. Combined with its build volume of 300 x 200 x 200 mm, it’s well-outfitted to handle a variety of projects.

It also has the quality of life features to make it welcoming to new and old hobbyists alike. The Snapmaker J1 has a filament runout sensor, a 5” touchscreen, and a simple auto bed-leveling system.

Ultimately, the J1 is an amazing option for anyone looking for an IDEX printer. It provides enough support and quality that even beginners could pick it up, which is great to see in a dual-extruder printer. The main downside, if you can call it that, is that the J1 isn’t built to be anything but a 3D printer – which might make you consider an Artisan or 2.0 instead.

Snapmaker Artisan

• Price: Check latest price at Snapmaker here
• Build volume: 350 x 400 x 400 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG, TPU, Breakaway PLA, PVA, HIPS, Nylon, Carbon Fiber Reinforced Nylon, Glass Fiber Reinforced Nylon
• Laser cutting materials: Basswood, Paulownia, Pinewood, Plywood, Beech, Walnut, Bamboo, MDF, Leather, Fabric, Canvas, Corrugated Paper, Cardboard, Plastic, Dark Acrylic (Blue excluded)
• CNC materials: Hardwood (Beech, Walnut), Softwood, HDF, MDF, Plywood, Jade, Carbon Fiber, Acrylic, Epoxy Tooling Board, PCB
• Layer height: 50 – 300 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 300°C
• Max bed temp: 110°C
• Laser module: 10W
• CNC cutting module: 200W
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi, USB cable, USB flash drive

The Snapmaker Artisan is a high profile (winning the CES innovation award), high cost, and highly upgraded version of the 2.0 models. It uses a quick-swap design that’s reminiscent of the modular 2.0 F.

Included in the couple thousand dollar package is the ability to swap between 3D printing with a dual extruder, laser engraving and cutting, and CNC engraving and cutting. Despite being a 3-in-1 device, it doesn’t sacrifice the individual quality of any function.

The laser cutter module can work with a variety of woods, leather, plastic, and acrylics, while the CNC module can work with woods, plastics, carbon fiber, acrylics, and even stones like Jade. Both modules are high power: 10W and 200W respectively.

On the 3D printing side of things, you still have many options. The Artisan’s max extruder temperature of 300°C and max bed temperature of 110°C, paired with a dual-sided PEI and glass build plate and an enclosure, let you use filaments like PETG, ABS, TPU, Nylon, Carbon Fiber Reinforced Nylon, and more.

The Snapmaker Artisan doesn’t let up with smaller features, either. It boasts an updated UI and a 7” touch screen, which makes it easy to use.

Overall, the Artisan is an incredible tool that can only be replaced by purchasing high-quality versions of each machine separately. As it stands, its main pitfall is that it does lack some smaller features – possibly because it’s a 3-in-1 machine. It doesn’t have auto bed-leveling or a filament sensor, and the dual extruder is not IDEX.

Snapmaker 2.0 (AT Models)

• Price: Check latest price at Snapmaker here
• Build volume (A250T): 230 x 250 x 235 mm
• Build volume (A350T): 320 x 350 x 330 mm
• Filament compatibility (A250T and A350T): PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, wood filled PLA, and similar
• Laser cutting materials: Wood, leather, plastic, fabric, paper, non-transparent acrylic
• CNC materials: Wood, acrylic, PCB, carbon fiber sheet, jade
• Layer height: 50 – 300 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp (A250T and A350T): 275°C
• Max bed temp (A250T): 100°C
• Max bed temp (A350T): 80°C
• Laser module: 1.6W
• CNC cutting module: 50W
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi, USB cable, USB flash drive

The A250T and the A350T are both complete packages including a 3D printer, a laser cutting module, and a CNC module. While neither of them are as expensive as the premium Snapmaker Artisan, they are reasonably well-equipped.

As the cheaper model, the A250T has a lower build volume of 230 x 250 x 235 mm compared to the A350T’s 320 x 350 x 330 mm. The work areas for the laser and CNC modules are the same, at 230 x 250 mm and 320 x 350 mm, respectively.

The differences are minimal aside from work area size. There’s a decent range of filaments, including PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, and wood-filled PLA for both the A250T and A350T.

The maximum extruder temperature on both models is 275°C, which helps the ATs print with those trickier filaments like wood-filled and TPU. However, the laser cutting and CNC modules aren’t quite as impressive. The default laser is 1.6W, and you have to pay an extra few hundred dollars to get the 10W high-power laser module that comes with the Artisan by default. The 50W CNC head is also significantly weaker than the 200W Artisan CNC.

However, I still managed to cut wood with the 1.6W laser (I also have the 10W module for my Snapmaker 2.0, though), and fashioned an accurate chess piece using the 4-axis rotary module on some epoxy resin.

They come with a laser camera for seamless calibration, helpful carving bits for CNC work, and are perfectly designed for fast swapping between modules.

Although the AT models aren’t enclosed, they’re well-stocked with filament sensors, auto bed-leveling, and touchscreens. You can also read my full review of the Snapmaker 2.0 A350T.

Snapmaker 2.0 (F Models)

• Price: Check latest price at Snapmaker here
• Build volume (F250): 230 x 250 x 235 mm
• Build volume (F350): 320 x 350 x 330 mm
• Filament compatibility (F250 and F350): PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, wood filled PLA, and similar
• Layer height: 50 – 300 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp (F250 and F350): 300°C
• Max bed temp (F250): 100°C
• Max bed temp (F350): 80°C
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi, USB cable, USB flash drive

Compared to the Snapmaker 2.0 AT and A models, the Snapmaker 2.0 F models are more about versatility and flexibility. They don’t come with any modules by default, but you have the option of purchasing them. As you might expect, they’re cheaper printers that work better for entry-level hobbyists.

Like the AT models, the F250 has a build volume of 230 x 250 x 235 mm compared to the F350’s 320 x 350 x 330 mm.

The filament compatibility is also the same on the F models compared to the AT models, with PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, wood-filled PLA, and similar filaments. That’s because the build plate (double-sided PEI and glass) is the same, and the maximum extruder temperature (300°C) is actually higher than on the AT models.

As a 3D printer first and foremost, the F250 and F350 have filament runout sensors and auto bed-leveling – which are not with the Artisan.

Between the F250 and F350, Snapmaker claims to have upgraded the F350 to have much faster print times without sacrificing quality. Both F models have touchscreens and an upgraded cooling system.

The quality of the laser cutting/engraving and CNC modules should be about the same as on the AT models. Even the system of swapping them is more or less the same– the only difference is needing to purchase the modules separately.

However, the F models have a trump card over the 2.0 ATs: they have a dual extruder. They aren’t IDEX, but dual extrusion gives you more flexibility with your projects. Increased flexibility and versatility are what the Snapmaker 2.0 F printers are all about.

Comparison Showdown

Functions

Each Snapmaker device fits in its own unique niche.

Although they’re all makerspace-worthy, the Snapmaker Artisan has the most functionality overall. It can do laser engraving and cutting thanks to the higher power laser, CNC cutting, and dual extrusion 3D printing.

The Artisan is compatible with more modules than the AT or F models. You can see a complete list of compatible modules on the product page.

The only thing the Artisan doesn’t have are independent dual extruders, which are better compared to dual extruders built into the same print head. IDEX 3D printers can set different temperatures for each print head, and so print multiple filaments, and multiple objects simultaneously.

By a technicality, the AT models have more functionality than the F models – but only until you purchase modules to add. If you buy a laser engraving and a CNC cutting module, then you’ll have everything the AT models have – but with dual extrusion.

The J1 is dead last when it comes to functionality. It’s not made to be multi-purpose like the other Snapmaker devices, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The Snapmaker J1 does its job of being a high-quality IDEX printer quite well.

When making your decision, remember the differences between 3D printing capabilities between the printers are relatively minimal. They can all print quality designs using a wide range of filaments.

Build Volumes and Work Areas

The Snapmaker Artisan is meaningfully larger than all of the others at an impressive 350 x 400 x 400 mm. The Snapmaker 2.0 A350T and F350 are in second place, at 320 x 350 x 330 mm.

The Artisan, as a more ‘premium’ device, will give you the most leeway to create fun pieces. But we feel the work area alone likely isn’t worth the increased price. You should stick with the 2.0 A350T or F350 if you want a larger build volume and don’t need the extra features.

Although the Snapmaker J1 is a perfectly reasonable middle ground for a 3D printer at 300 x 200 x 200 mm, the smaller sizes of the Snapmaker 2.0 models might give you some trouble. Make sure you carefully consider not only what you want to 3D print, but which projects you would use CNC or laser modules on.

Temp Resistance and Wattage

Once again, the Snapmaker Artisan proves its higher quality through high-power CNC and laser modules, and a high-temperature extruder.

Most Snapmaker printers have similar max temperatures. However, you can swap in higher-quality pieces if need be.

Since the Artisan and 2.0 models are modular, you could get some of the Artisan’s specs on the 2.0 models. Compatibility can be found in the FAQ section of the Artisan’s product page.

The 10W high power laser module works for the A250T, A350T, F250, and F350 (I have the 10W module on my Snapmaker 2.0). 

However, the 200W CNC module that Artisan uses doesn’t work with any of the other 2.0 models. If you want CNC power, the Artisan is the way to go.

At base, the modules that come with the AT models aren’t all that special. The laser module uses 1.6W and the CNC module uses 50W, far from the Artisan’s quality.

It could be worthwhile to purchase a 2.0 F model and a 10W laser module if you’re the most interested in having the laser engraving/cutting capability. Keep in mind, though, that it won’t offer cost savings since the 10W laser module is $490 and even the F250 is $770 at base.

The benefit of opting for this path is that you’d get a higher-wattage laser for around the same price as the A350T. We also have a standalone review of the Snapmaker 10W laser module.

Filaments and Materials

Snapmaker tests materials and filaments for each printer in-house, which makes it easy to know which materials are good to go. Unfortunately, the materials that they’ve tested don’t truly run the gamut of what should be possible on their devices.

For example, the Snapmaker J1 and Snapmaker Artisan should be more than capable of handling wood-filled PLA, just like the various 2.0 models.

As you might expect, the Snapmaker Artisan and Snapmaker J1 have the best selection of usable filaments. The J1 gets bonus points for having IDEX, allowing it to use multiple filaments in the same print. Higher-quality laser and CNC modules on the Artisan makes for better material options, too. 

In the context of 3D printing, the enclosed designs of the J1 and Artisan are what set them apart the most. These designs allow for better temperature control, which in turn means you’ll find more success when printing with filaments like Nylon that need stable environments. You can also buy an enclosure for the 2.0 models though, and I bought the enclosure for mine for a few hundred extra dollars.

We think you’ll likely be able to use Nylon fibers on the Snapmaker J1 based on the specs and enclosure, though Snapmaker doesn’t explicitly list them as tested filaments.

Price

For Artisan’s high-quality modules and premium specs, you’ll pay a hefty $2,900. It’s not comparable to even the 2.0 A350T’s $1,200.

Aside from the J1, all of these printers use a modular design to swap in and out new functions. Since the Snapmaker Artisan has the best CNC and laser modules, it’s actually a good deal.

The Snapmaker 2.0 F250 and F350 may be the cheapest, but that’s only because they don’t include any modules in the package. To get a better idea of what the total price will be, make sure you’re including the modules or add-ons that you want in your calculations

You can also read up more on the Snapmaker 2.0 laser engraver and CNC toolhead before making any final decisions.

Snapmaker J1 vs Artisan vs 2.0 AT and F – The Bottom Line

We’re big fans of Snapmaker here at 3DSourced, and there’s a Snapmaker machine for every need – depending on what you prioritize. 

Let’s get the Snapmaker J1 out of the way first: it’s a great IDEX printer, no more and no less. We feel it’s a good option for beginners and more experienced hobbyists alike.

If you’re interested in Snapmaker devices for their modular designs, you’ll want one of the other machines. The Snapmaker Artisan is the best, hands down, in content and quality. We’d suggest purchasing the Artisan so long as you can swing the price.

It’s going to be cheaper for most casual hobbyists to purchase a 2.0 AT or F model. Considering the AT’s included modules, either the A250T or the A350T will be a better all-around choice.

The F models are geared toward versatility and customization, but they actually can’t use all of the modules that the AT models can since the 2.0 Fs are older.

If you opt for one of the 2.0 Fs, then you need to do your due diligence to make sure the lower price is really worth it – or if you’re just dooming yourself to a subpar experience.

The Prusa MINI is generally considered to be the more advanced and reliable printer, suitable for intermediate to advanced users, while the Ender 3 is a popular budget option, suitable for beginners with plenty of upgrade potential.

They’re the two most popular choices – but you may also choose to opt for the larger Ender 3 V2 or Pro if you need more build volume.

In this guide, I’ll compare all four candidates for the ultimate budget royalty head-to-head based on my hands-on experience to help you make a confident choice.

We’ll discuss the differences across all the key metrics – ease of use, print quality, value for money, and everything else you need to know

Does the diminutive Prusa MINI have enough printing pep to loosen the proven Ender 3’s firm grip on the entry-level 3D printing market? Let’s find out.

OUT-OF-THE-BOX PICK

Prusa MINI

Available at:

Prusa here

BUILD VOLUME PICK

Ender 3 V2

Available at:

Creality here Amazon here

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Meet The Contenders

Creality Ender 3

• Where to buy: Creality official store here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG
• Layer height: 100-400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 255° 
• Max bed temp: 110°
• Connectivity: USB, SD Card

The original Creality Ender 3 burst onto the 3D printing scene in 2017 and, in one fell swoop, changed the budget landscape, with an impact that still echoes today.

800,000 units shipped and counting attests to the Ender 3’s abiding popularity.

The Ender 3 offers a roomy 220 x 220 x 250 mm build volume, a heated BuildTak-like build plate, a power recovery mode, and support for PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU printing, to name the standout features.

The Ender 3 isn’t without its faults, though.

Its wobble-prone plastic Y-axis extrusion has been the subject of much debate, and manual bed leveling feels outdated in this day and age of low-cost auto-leveling probes.

Although several contenders and copycats have appeared in the intervening year and the specification sheet is no longer as eye-catching, the vanilla Ender 3 remains a benchmark for all value-packed printers out there.

A strong buy for first-timers or cash-strapped makers with bucket loads of upgrade potential.

Read more: our Creality Ender 3 review

Creality Ender 3 Pro

• Where to buy: Creality official store here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG
• Layer height: 100-400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 255° 
• Max bed temp: 110°
• Connectivity: USB, SD Card

With the Ender 3 having obtained household name status, Creality brought out the Ender 3 Pro to address some of the original’s most glaring issues.

The price tag also surged upwards to finance those enhancements, bringing the Ender 3 Pro into the sub $300 segment.

Among the most notable changes is new and improved wider Y-axis 40×40 aluminum extrusion, patching up the wobble woes of the Ender 3.

A slimmer and quieter Mean Well power supply unit, a textured removable magnetic bed, an improved MK-8 extruder, larger bed leveling nuts, and a smarter repositioning of the motherboard fan spruce up the Ender 3 Pro compared to the original.

The question here is whether these enhancements warrant the roughly extra $100 Creality levies for the Ender 3 Pro.

While the Ender 3 Pro benefits from tangible improvements that make printing easier, is it worth paying slightly more for the refreshed 2020 Ender 3 V2 or even the Prusa MINI?

Creality Ender 3 V2

• Where to buy: Creality official store here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG
• Layer height: 100-400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 255° 
• Max bed temp: 110°
• Connectivity: USB, SD Card

Rounding up our overview of the Ender 3 family, we have the Creality Ender V2.

While not a complete overhaul of the Ender 3, the Ender 3 V2 takes the same core easy-to-use budget printing experience and injects a series of transformative upgrades that, in our estimation, make it the best Ender 3 yet.

Aesthetically and construction-wise, the Ender 3 V2 diverts from its predecessor with a sleek, sheet metal injection and plastic panel design, abandoning the cheaper look for something wholly more pleasing.

On the technical side, the Ender 3 V2 now includes a silent 32-bit motherboard, TMC2208 stepper motor drivers, and a tempered carborundum glass platform, a significant adherence upgrade over even the Ender 3 Pro’s magnetic plate that also speeds up bed heating.

Creality has also added several quality-of-life enhancements that make using the Ender 3 V2 more enjoyable long-term.

These include a new detachable 4.3-inch HD color screen, a nifty, if a little gimmicky, toolbox embedded into the printer’s base, and XY-axis tensioners to keep belts taut.

As the most sophisticated budget Creality printer yet, the Ender 3 V2 succeeds where the Pro falters in that it provides a meaningful upgrade over the original that’s well worth the extra cost.

Prusa MINI

• Where to buy: Prusa official store here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 180 x 180 x 180 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, PC, CPE, PVA, PVB, HIPS, PP
• Layer height: 50-250 microns
• Max extruder temp: 280° 
• Max bed temp: 100°
• Connectivity: USB, Ethernet

The Prusa MINI represents Prusa’s first foray into the budget sector to duke it out with, predominantly, the Ender series.

The Prusa MINI borrows much of the technical know-how and lashings of the market-leading usability found in Prusa’s i3 MK3S+ crown jewel, but at less than half the cost.

As the name implies, it’s a modest, toy-sized printer, but behind a small footprint lies a sleek, uncluttered, and confident 3D printing machine capable of print quality that all but equals the full-fat i3 MK3S+.

The Prusa Mini sports an excellent heated removable magnetic PEI-coated bed.

Alongside, the MINI can tackle a generous range of materials, including PLA, ABS, PETG, ASA, PC, and HIPS. It also does away with the standard SD Card connectivity for both USB and Ethernet.

Finally, a 2.8″ full-color LCD, fully-automatic mesh bed leveling, and well-guided kit assembly round-off the baked-in usability that courses through the Prusa MINI’s entire design.

Prusa’s expertise in creating reliable and convenient 3D printers shines through with the Prusa Mini.

Whether you’re buying your first printer or looking to level up to a premium-budget machine, the Prusa MINI should serve you well.

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – At a Glance

Now that we’ve got a sense of what each printer has to offer, it’s time to hone in on what sets them apart.

But, keep in mind that use case and, ultimately, budget are the final adjudicators of whether the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, or Prusa MINI is the right and best printer for you.

For all-out bang-for-your-buck, balanced out by the best print quality and performance under $200, the Ender 3 is the uncontested winner.

The fact it’s highly modifiable and the wide availability of upgrades means you can tweak it to a make-shift Ender Pro for much less than its successor’s respective asking price.

If you’re prepared to spend $100 to $150 more, then the waters murk with both the souped-up Ender 3 V2 and the small but mighty Prusa MINI joining the fray.

With these two head-to-head, we’re once again back to printing needs. Is a large build volume more important than overall usability and convenience? Do you need broader material compatibility above all else, and so on?

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Comparison Showdown

Build Volume

All three Ender 3 printers have a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm. Stacked against the Prusa MINI comparatively cramped 180 x 180 x 180 mm, we have a clear winner.

The Ender 3 opens up more possibilities and variety in print types and sizes.

Considered in the context of the budget, beginner-friendly segment, the Prusa MINI’s 180 x 180 x 180 mm build volume should be sufficient to cover all the most popular hobbyist prints. It’s enough for models, toys, household items like vases, and any other homemade trinket you can think of.

Indeed, if we were to push the Prusa MINI to its limit, we’d still get an 18 cm² cube of plastic. Failing that, you can still fall back on printing an object in parts.

That said, there’s no skirting around the fact that the Ender 3 trumps the Prusa MINI in build volume.

While we’d be surprised if newcomers made anything exceeding that build area, it’s still small by budget 3D printer standards. If you need plenty of build area, the Ender 3 takes the lead.

Winner: Ender 3

Print Bed

The type and quality of the build plate are where our four contenders distinguish themselves most from one another.

The Ender 3 features a fairly basic, serviceable, fixed heated BuildTak-style print bed, which more often than not benefits from some adhesive love (glue, hair spray, etc.).

The Ender 3 Pro has a flexible, textured, and removable C-MAG magnetic print bed. The Ender 3 V2 goes even further, drafting in a tempered carborundum glass platform, arguably the best 3D printing solution for adhesion and easy finished print removal.

The Prusa MINI features a removable textured magnetic PEI-coated spring steel bed.

Because of shaped edges that sit snugly between screws on the printer itself, the alignment of the plate is far superior on the Prusa MINI than even the Ender 3 V2’s glass plate.

For that reason alone, the Prusa MINI eclipses the Ender 3 at its best.

Winner: Prusa MINI

Bed Leveling

The Ender 3 bunch all feature manual bed leveling, although the Ender 3 V2’s larger and labeled leveling knobs housed under each corner of the build platform simplify the process considerably.

The Prusa MINI delegates leveling duties to clever point-based fully-automatic mesh bed calibration and sensorless homing.

Manual bed leveling is no fun, even if you’re a weathered maker. Prusa’s hands-off mesh leveling works a treat, optimizing the MINI for problem-free printing.

A clear winner here for convenience alone and a welcome feature for first-timers eager to get printing without tinkering for hours beforehand.

Winner: Prusa MINI

Ease of Use

The Ender 3, in its three iterations, comes semi-assembled, with more or less identical assembly paths in both components and the time involved to piece them into a functional printer. 

The Prusa MINI ships either as a kit or semi-assembled, the latter costing $50 more for the pleasure.

While the kit build isn’t particularly taxing or beyond the means of a curious beginner and offers a crash course in the principles and hardware of 3D printing, semi-assembled printers are just more convenient.

Something that also plays into usability is interfacing with the printer.

The Ender 3 and Pro’s LCD feels aged, especially compared to the sleek 2.8″ full-color LCD on the Prusa MINI and the entirely redesigned 4.3″ HD color screen. The MINI nudges ever so slightly ahead for offering on-screen print preview.

More granular usability features on the Ender 3 V2, such as belt tensioners, the handy toolbox, and a new rotary knob to feed filament into the extruder, make it a more enjoyable printer to use than its siblings.

Still, the Prusa MINI’s overall experience is smoother.

Winner: Prusa MINI

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Price

While price is somewhat a misleading indicator of a printer’s overall merit, we’re all bound to a budget. It’s an essential factor to keep in mind and often a deciding one, especially in the budget range.

The Ender 3 currently sells on the Creality shop for $189.00, while the Ender 3 Pro is available for a steeper $219.00. The Ender 3 V2 pushes the price to $262.00.

Jumping over to the Prusa MINI, you’ll find it priced at $349 in kit form.

The Ender 3 packs an awful lot of value into that $189.00, and the print quality is remarkable for the price.

As for the Ender 3 Pro, we don’t feel the minor improvements over the original genuinely warrant that extra $30, especially as you can splash out a further $40 and get the vastly improved Ender 3 V2.

With all its usability, convenience, and features such as auto bed leveling, the Prusa MINI justifies its price, but for us, the Ender 3 V2 comes out on top.

If $262.00 blows past your allocated budget, the Ender 3 is a solid fallback option.

Winner: Ender 3 V2

Upgrade Potential

For the fruit of hordes of engaged Ender 3 owners, there’s no end to resources, mods, and upgrades conjured up by the community surrounding the printer in all its guises.

The open design also makes it particularly mod-friendly, and Creality has a trove of accessories and upgrades for sale to simplify the process if 3D printing your own parts isn’t your cup of tea.

When it comes to the Prusa MINI, it’s not as suited to upgrades and hacking as the Ender 3 printers.

It’s not because it has a tightly controlled ecosystem or because Prusa makes it inordinately hard to tear the machine apart, but simply because it already sports all the upgrades it could ever need.

The Ender 3 is prized for baked-in ease-of-use and quick assembly that pose little in the way of obstacles to pumping out excellent quality prints for the price, rivaling printers three times the price.

Much of its popularity comes from a mod and upgrade-friendly design, something the vibrant Ender community has embraced, birthing all manner of 3D printed add-ons and hacks.

Defining a clear winner here is problematic.

The Prusa MINI has it all, but on the other hand, the Ender 3 offers plenty of scope to fine-tune and improve the printer to suit your preferences. A great option for hands-on makers or beginners looking to dive into the more technical aspects of 3D printing.

Winner: Draw

Read more: the best Ender 3 upgrades

Material Compatibility

When it comes to material compatibility, the three Ender 3 printers all exist on a level playing field and are compatible with your standard PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG.

On the other hand, the Prusa MINI broadens the cluster of compatible filaments to include:

• PLA
• ABS
• TPU
• PETG
• ASA
• PC
• CPE
• PVA
• PVB
• HIPS
• PP

Whether you’ll use these less-popular material types determines whether the Prusa MINI’s extra material range has any value. Still, Prusa’s little wonder wins by offering more possibilities.

Winner: Prusa MINI

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2: The Winner

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Best Overall

Setting aside cost, the Prusa MINI+ is an all-around better printer than the Ender 3, even though it has a comparatively modest build volume.

You get a Prusa machine at a reasonable price, stellar usability, features usually found on pricier printers, and, arguably, more importantly, superb print quality.

OUT-OF-THE-BOX PICK

Prusa MINI

Available at:

Prusa here

BUILD VOLUME PICK

Ender 3 V2

Available at:

Creality here Amazon here

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Best Value

If we factor in price, the Prusa MINI loses some appeal. For those on a tighter budget, the Ender 3 V2 is a worthwhile alternative, a printer that fixes the faults of its predecessors while retaining all of the mod and hack potential of the series.

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Best On a Budget

If you can only spend around $200, the Ender 3 fully deserves to be ranked among the best budget printers, and, years after taking the 3D printing world by the storm, still boasts remarkable value for money.

It’s a great starter printer we happily recommend to anyone looking to tackle that initial learning curve in style.

We’d recommend avoiding the Ender 3 Pro entirely. The targeted improvements are an advantage, but you could install these yourself on a vanilla Ender 3 for less money.

Articles we recommend:

• The best Prusa alternatives
• Differences Between Prusa Mini+ and Prusa i3 MK3S+
• Prusa i3 MK3S+ vs Ender 3 V2 / Pro / S1
• Prusa enclosure guide (DIY and buyable options
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 3 competitors and alternatives
• Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro, V2 and Max
• Ender 5 vs Ender 5 Pro vs Ender 5 Plus
• Sovol SV06 vs Ender 3 (V2 / Neo)
• Anycubic Mono X vs Elegoo Saturn
• Flashforge Adventurer 3 vs Ender 3
• Anycubic Kobra vs Kobra Plus and Max

After all, both printers are known for being entry level, extremely budget friendly, and reliable.

But is the Aquila X2 actually different from the Ender 3 V2 in any meaningful way?

Overall, both printers are great for beginners and hobbyists, but the Voxelab Aquila X2 is best for those on a tight budget, while the Ender 3 V2 is better for those who want access to a strong community and additional quality-of-life features.

In this guide, I’ll compare these entry-level 3D printers across all the key factors- upgradeability, filament compatibility, and plenty more – so you can make the right choice for you and your projects

Is the Aquila X2 a knockoff version of Creality’s superstar – or is it a real contender among low-cost 3D printers? Let’s find out.

Budget Pick	Top Pick
Voxelab Aquila X2	Creality Ender 3 V2
Primary Rating: 4.5	Primary Rating: 4.7
Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm	Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
Max Print Speed: Up to 180 mm/s	Max Print Speed: Up to 200 mm/s
Filament runout sensor: Yes	Filament runout sensor: Optional Add-on
Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU	Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU
N/A	$279.99
Amazon here	Creality Store here
	Amazon here

Budget Pick

Voxelab Aquila X2

Primary Rating:

4.5

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Max Print Speed:

Up to 180 mm/s

Filament runout sensor:

Yes

Filament Compatibility:

PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU

N/A

Amazon here

Top Pick

Creality Ender 3 V2

Primary Rating:

4.7

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Max Print Speed:

Up to 200 mm/s

Filament runout sensor:

Optional Add-on

Filament Compatibility:

PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU

$279.99

Creality Store here

Amazon here

Voxelab Aquila X2 vs Ender 3 V2: A Quick Summary

Voxelab Aquila X2

The Voxelab Aquila X2 is best known as yet another copycat of the Ender 3 V2, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Voxelab priced the Aquila X2 at $179.99 to undercut the Ender 3. At a price point that’s nearly $80 less than Creality’s budget king, the Aquila made itself a strong contender in the market.

Like other Ender 3 clones, the Aquila X2 has similar specs and capabilities to the Ender 3 V2. It has the same build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm, the same layer resolution of 100 – 400 microns and similar printing accuracies.

The Aquila also comfortably works with the same filaments that other budget FDM printers do: PLA, ABS, and PETG. Although it technically can print with TPU, it’s likely you’ll need to upgrade the extrusion head, if nothing else.

Aside from the price, what sets the Aquila X2 apart from the Ender 3 V2 is the filament runout sensor. This can be a great help for longer prints and for newer hobbyists, and it’s also the biggest upgrade from the original Aquila.

The Aquila X2 comes equipped with a carrying handle attached to the top as a quality of life feature. Other features, like a rotary encoder-controlled color screen, quiet printing, and an easy method to tighten the belts, are shared by the Aquila X2 and Ender 3 V2.

Voxelab Aquila X2

Open source FDM 3D printer with the following features: Filament Detection, Resume Printing, Removable Build Surface Plateform, 32-bit Silent Mainboard, Auto Filaments Feed/Return

Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Ender 3 V2

Creality’s Ender 3 V2 is the reigning champion of budget FDM printers. It’s easy to see why, as the original Ender 3 was a price leader with solid features when it was first released – it’s still one of the world’s best-selling 3D printers.

The Ender 3 V2 costs around $259. It’s not the absolute cheapest on the market, but you’re paying for a product with a strong community and well-known company backing it.

That community is actually one of the main selling points of the Ender at this point. It has a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm, which the Ender 3 popularized as the standard for its many budget copies. That’s not bad by any means, but it doesn’t set it apart from the competition.

It’s the same story for the Ender 3 V2’s other features. The rotary controlled color screen, 100 – 400 microns layer resolution, and even the filament compatibility aren’t special compared to other budget options. The filaments are identical to the Aquila X2’s: PLa, PETG, ABS, and TPU.

That being said, the Ender 3 V2’s community really does put it ahead of the game. Just like the Aquila X2, the Ender 3 is only able to properly make use of TPU with some upgrades and fine tuning. It’s much easier to make that happen when there are hundreds of people who have done it before you.

Creality made a couple key improvements on the original Ender 3 that make the V2 really stand out. Firstly, the V2 has quiet printing thanks to a superior motherboard. This is pretty meaningful, since budget printers often need upgrades tacked on in order to run quietly.

The V2 has a belt adjuster, so there’s no need to pull out any tools. But if you did need to, it also has a handy toolbox to store them in. Overall, these quality of life improvements keep the Ender 3 V2 competitive with other budget options.

Top budget 3D printer

Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer

Upgraded version of the original Ender 3 with a number of key improvements.

This easy to assemble DIY kit creates a 220 x 220 x 250mm build volume for printing epic creations. Experience ultra-quiet operation and stable, precise printing with the upgraded motherboard and extruder.

And, get great first layers with the heated carborundum glass print surface.

Creality Store here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Comparison Showdown

Build Volume

The Aquila X2 and the Ender 3 V2 have the same build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm. You’re not likely to get anything bigger unless you’re willing to pay a higher price, since this is the unspoken standard for printers in that price range.

That means large prints and printing en masse are going to be strictly off limits regardless of which printer you use. Still, it’s definitely easier to extend the print bed with the Ender 3 V2 because there are Ender Extender products designed specifically for that purpose.

With the Aquila X2, you would have to attempt to co-opt an Ender Extender to get the same results. You’d be taking the risk of blowing your money on a product that ultimately might not work, which is a hard sell if you’re looking for an entry-level printer.

Print Speed

• Voxelab Aquila X2 – Up to 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 V2 – Up to 200 mm/s

The Ender 3 V2 has a slightly higher maximum print speed, at 200 mm/s compared to the Aquila X2’s 180 mm/s. On a practical level, though, neither of these max speeds will ever be used because of the printing errors they would cause.

Even if we ignore that and compare max print speeds anyway, the Ender 3 only has a lead of 20 mm/s. It’s not meaningful enough to make a difference in your experience with the printer. 

Filament Runout Sensor

The standout feature of Voxelab’s Aquila X2 is that it has a filament runout sensor and auto feeding capabilities. Despite the Ender 3 V2’s reputation as a great entry-level printer, it lacks that ability.

It might not be an absolute must-have, but that doesn’t mean it’s irrelevant. A filament sensor for the Ender 3 would cost between $7 – $15. You also have to consider the time it takes to install– and potentially troubleshoot– a filament sensor if you wanted to add one.

Official Creality Ender 3 V2 Filament Runout Sensor

$14.99

The normal filament feed indicator is a blue LED light that turns off when the sensor detects filament runout. This product is compatible with Ender 3, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 MAX, Ender 5 Plus, CR-10S PRO, CR-10 V2, and CR-10 V3.

Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

11/17/2025 08:00 am GMT

An alternative is to go ahead and purchase the Ender 3 V2 Neo. Just like the Aquila, it’s equipped with a filament sensor. The downside is that it’ll be much more expensive than the extra $15 it takes to upgrade the Ender 3 V2. 

Incredible Value for Money

Ender 3 V2 Neo

An easy-to-use enclosed 3D printer with auto-leveling and removable steel print surface.

With pristine 0.1 mm resolution, you won't find a more precise 3D printer for this price anywhere.

Easy setup, operation and print removal make this an ideal pick for beginners.

Creality Store here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Ultimately, the lack of a runout sensor isn’t going to be a deal breaker in most cases. It’s just a convenient feature that makes the Aquila X2 slightly more efficient and beginner friendly.

Bed Leveling

The Ender 3 V2 and the Aquila X2 have standard manual bed leveling. It’s good to get familiar with the process, but it’s also an extra step that you might not want to deal with if this is your first printer. Introducing more variables when you’re already using a budget printer can make things much more difficult than they should be.

For a higher price, the Ender 3 V2 Neo has automatic bed leveling that Creality has dubbed CR Touch. It works through touch probes, just like antclab’s BLTouch. 

Read more: the best low-cost 3D printers with auto-leveling

Upgradeability

When you purchase a cheap, entry-level 3D printer, you’re usually accepting that upgrades will be a necessity. The Aquila X2 and Ender 3 V2 are no exceptions. With either printer, you’ll probably want to upgrade basics like the fans, the extruder, and the bed mounts.

The noise level of these printers hovers around 50dB. Upgrading their fans (including the part cooling, hot end, PSU, and control board fans) is the best option for quieter printing.

Getting a better extruder and replacing the default bed springs with silicone mounts will also benefit both printers equally, and it’s relatively easy to find parts for either of them. Since the Aquila is nearly identical, most things that will work with the Ender 3 will also work for the Aquila.

Of course, these upgrades aren’t free. As the more expensive printer, every additional upgrade makes the Aquila X2 look more appealing and the Ender 3 V2 seem less worthwhile. 

Read more: all the best Ender 3 upgrades (both DIY and buyable options)

Filament Compatibility

You’ll be working with the same basic set of filaments, whether you have the Aquila X2 or the Ender 3 V2. They’re compatible with PLA, PETG, and ABS. It’s common for hobbyists to upgrade the Ender 3’s extruder for the sake of using TPU, and in fact, it’s actually advertised as being able to use TPU.

Regardless, flexible filaments like TPU can be finicky. The Ender 3 isn’t the ideal option if you want a wide range of filaments to use, and neither is the Aquila. This is another area where the two printers are at a near-standstill. 

Any upgrades that can be done to the Ender 3’s extruder can also be done to the Aquila’s, and the end result is two printers that can use essentially the same pool of filaments.

If you opt for the Ender 3 V2 Neo, you’ll have a clear advantage over the Ender 3 V2 and the Aquila X2: a fully metal Bowden extruder. It will give you a better time with handling filaments and be more durable, to boot. 

Read more: the best filaments for the Ender 3

Assembly

Creality chose to leave the Ender 3 V2’s complete assembly in the hands of whoever buys it for the sake of a lower price. The Aquila X2 follows in Creality’s footsteps, leading the two printers to have very similar assembly times.

It commonly takes between 30-45 minutes to set up the Ender 3 V2 or the Aquila X2. There are detailed guides for building either printer, so they’re both fine choices for beginners from this perspective.

Price

With few other features or specs to differentiate the two, price is the biggest factor between the Ender 3 and the Aquila X2.

The Ender does get marked down for sales regularly, but it usually won’t dip beneath $199. The Aquila X2 blows the Ender 3’s regular and sales prices out of the water with a price of $179.99.

The Ender 3 V2 Neo is, of course, even more expensive at $298. In perspective, this is still a relatively cheap printer. It just can’t compare to the Aquila X2’s price.

Community

Many hobbyists flock to the Ender 3 purely because of how established it is. As far as 3D printers go, the Ender 3 is a household name– and with that comes a flourishing community. 

The benefit of having dozens of large and growing forums is that troubleshooting becomes much easier. Chances are, any issue you have with the Ender 3 V2 is an issue someone else already has experienced and posted about somewhere on the Internet. If you’re new to the world of 3D printing, the community alone can make the difference between success and a 3D printer that never gets used. 

But although the Ender 3 V2 technically wins out when it comes to community support, the Aquila X2 isn’t a total loser. The build of the Aquila is so similar to that of the Ender 3 that many resources can be used interchangeably between the two.

Budget Pick	Top Pick
Voxelab Aquila X2	Creality Ender 3 V2
Primary Rating: 4.5	Primary Rating: 4.7
Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm	Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
Max Print Speed: Up to 180 mm/s	Max Print Speed: Up to 200 mm/s
Filament runout sensor: Yes	Filament runout sensor: Optional Add-on
Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU	Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU
N/A	$279.99
Amazon here	Creality Store here
	Amazon here

Budget Pick

Voxelab Aquila X2

Primary Rating:

4.5

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Max Print Speed:

Up to 180 mm/s

Filament runout sensor:

Yes

Filament Compatibility:

PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU

N/A

Amazon here

Top Pick

Creality Ender 3 V2

Primary Rating:

4.7

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Max Print Speed:

Up to 200 mm/s

Filament runout sensor:

Optional Add-on

Filament Compatibility:

PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU

$279.99

Creality Store here

Amazon here

Voxelab Aquila X2 vs Ender 3 V2 – The Bottom Line

The Ender 3 V2 has paved the way for future budget printers, and the Aquila X2 is exactly the printer to take its place. There is only one feature that really differentiates the two printers, and that’s the Aquila’s filament sensor.

Aside from that, Voxelab and Creality have made near-identical printers in everything but price. They have the same (or nearly the same) specs, need the same upgrades, and work with the same filaments.

The Ender 3 V2’s main appeal is being an entry-level, budget 3D printer. If the Aquila can do everything the Ender can at a lower cost– and it can– then why not buy the Aquila instead?

The only possible caveat is if the Ender 3’s community is worth the extra cash. But even then, there’s nothing stopping you from using resources for the Ender 3 and applying them to the Aquila X2.

Related articles:

• Comparing The Elegoo Neptune 2/3 vs Ender 3
• A Highly Improved Classic: Ender-3 V2 Neo Review
• Creality Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro vs Ender 3 V2
• Selected Ender 3 Series 3D Printers Compared: Ender 3 Neo, V2 Neo & Max Neo
• Best Ender 3 Print Speed Settings for Ender 3 V2 & Pro
• Sovol SV06 vs Ender 3 (V2 / Neo)

Cura has been the go-to choice for millions of makers since 2016. Creality Slicer, which is based on Cura, comes from the folks behind the iconic Ender 3 – Creality. Though it may not have the reputation of Cura, it’s still an efficient slicer worth considering.

If you’re considering the two and are having trouble making a choice, given the similarities between the two, this article is for you. We’ll cover what sets Cura and Creality Slicer apart, what features they share, their respective pros and cons, and suggest a few alternatives to these two slicer heavyweights.

Before we begin, here’s a brief breakdown of the differences between Creality Slicer and Cura in easy-to-digest table format:

What Are the Differences Between Creality Slicer and Cura

The main difference between Cura and Creality Slicer lies in their range of features and complexity. Creality Slicer is best seen as a simplified and streamlined version of Cura that’s easier for beginners to use and understand. 

Cura, on the other hand, has a broader range of advanced features better suited to tweaking and fine-tuning the slicing process, making it more versatile, but still extremely user-friendly. 

Let’s dive into the specifics.

User Interface

• Cura: Cura features a clean, intuitive, and easy-to-navigate UI that presents information and settings in a digestible format. The real beauty here is that the arrangement of the toolbar, features, and settings won’t overwhelm first-timers, but collapsible submenus reveal a wealth of options for those wanting to dive deeper into what the program has to offer.

• Creality Slicer: Given that Creality Slicer is a fork of Cura, retooled for Creality printer owners, the UI is more or less identical, bar a different color scheme. Some may prefer the sleeker colors of Cura, but for all intents and purposes, we’re working with the same core UI on both programs.

Operating System Compatibility

Print Times

Compatible 3D Printers and Profiles

Updates

Toolbar

Import/Export File Types

Cura: 

• 3MF File (.3mf)
• AMF File (.amf)
• COLLADA Digital Asset Exchange (.dae)
• Compressed COLLADA Digital Asset Exchange (.zae)
• Open Compressed Triangle Mesh (.ctm)
• STL file (.stl)
• Stanford Triangle Format (.ply)
• Wavefront OBJ File (.obj)
• X3D file (.x3d)
• glTF Binary (.glb)
• glTF Embedded JSON (.gltf)

• BMP image (.bmp)
• GIF image (.gif)
• JPEG image (.jpeg)
• JPG image (.jpg)
• PNG Image (.png)

• Compressed G-code file (.gz)
• G file (.g)
• G-code file (.gcode)
• Ultimaker Format Package (.ufp)

Creality Slicer:

Creality Slicer offers the same import/export file compatibility as Cura with the option to send sliced models to Creality Cloud, the manufacturer’s all-in-one cloud-based 3D printing platform, with features like a 3D model library, remote printing, and cloud slicing.

Support

Cost

Plugins

Creality Slicer vs Cura: Pros and Cons

Creality Slicer Pros and Cons

Pros

One of the main pros of Creality Slicer is full compatibility with all Creality printers, including the Ender 3, Ender 5, and CR-10. 

This also extends to optimized pre-configured profiles to get the best settings immediately with no tinkering. 

Creality Slicer is also based on Cura, so the layout and UI are familiar to anyone that’s used Cura. It’s easy to use, intuitive, and features descriptions for most settings and features to guide first-time users.

Creality Slicer supports a wide range of file formats for both export and import. The software also supports plugins, allowing you to customize the slicer with tools and features beyond those offered by the base program. Creality Slicer is 100% free to use and integrates with Creality’s Cloud service, giving you access to discussion, 3D models, and remote printing.

Cons

Creality Slicer is technically compatible with most printers, but is optimized for Creality machines, so you won’t get the best experience if you’re using a different branded 3D printer. 

You can create a custom profile and enter your 3D slicer settings yourself, but this doesn’t offer the same, sleek, optimized experience as the pre-configured Creality printer profiles. 

As Creality is based on Cura, any improvements rely on Creality implementing the latest Cura updates into its slicer, which generally means a delay in having access to the latest features and bug fixes, for a slightly outdated feel compared to Cura.

Ultimaker Cura Pros and Cons

Pros

Cura offers a clear, intuitive, and streamlined user interface that accommodates both beginners and experts alike. 

There’s plenty of depth to the features and options, but these aren’t pushed to the user from the get-go, allowing for a gentle learning curve. 

Cura is regularly updated with bug fixes, performance optimizations, and new features, giving users access to the latest in slicer capabilities. 

Cura is free to use with no limitations and is compatible with a huge range of 3D printers, with robust, tested pre-configured profiles for most FDM printers currently on the market and even older printers no longer available to buy. 

Due to its popularity, Cura has a massive community of users with a vast range of resources, guides, and tutorials to help you get the most out of the software. This also extends to a huge marketplace of plugins to customize your Cura experience.

Cons

Though Cura caters to most 3D printer brands, it doesn’t have profiles for all versions. 

For example, the Ender 3 profile only covers the basic version and the Ender 3 Pro, leaving out more recent versions like the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 V2 Neo for example, which requires fine tuning. We have recently reviewed and tested both the Ender 3 S1 Pro, and Ender 3 V2 Neo, and though it was right when they were released, at that time neither had a custom Cura profile. Check out our article on the best Cura profile settings for Ender 3 for more.

Alternatives to Creality Slicer and Ultimaker Cura

Though Ultimaker Cura and Creality Slicer are excellent slicers for most users, you may want to explore what else is out there with slightly less popular, but equally capable alternatives.

PrusaSlicer

Developed by the folks behind the highly-respected Prusa i3 MK3S+, PrusaSlicer is an open-source program based on Slic3r. Though, Prusa has polished and beefed up the feature set and user experience that PrusaSlicer now stands on its own two feet. 

It ships with pre-configured profiles for the most popular printers out there, includes import/export options for all the go-to file types, and is available for MacOS, Windows, and Linux. 

Among PrusaSlicer’s most notable features is a vase mode similar to Cura’s, custom supports, integration with OctoPrint, automatic variable layer height, model repair tool, infill wipe function, and macros. 

Though PrusaSlicer houses a wealth of features and options, it remains very user-friendly with a clean, polished layout. Regular updates and solid printing results with little tweaking make it a solid choice for those wanting something different to Cura and Creality Slicer.

Simplify3D

While Cura and Creality Slicer aim to welcome users of all experience levels, Simplify3D is designed mainly for professional applications with a suite of features and a level of tinkering unavailable on more consumer-geared slicers. With this comes a price tag, something that’s rare for most slicers, with Simplify3D asking users to drop $200 to use the software.

For the money, you get a customized workflow, abundant settings, and superb quality results at every turn, all housed in a UI that’s easy on the eye and intuitive to use for all the complexity lurking below the surface. It also ships with plenty of pre-configured profiles, import/export of all the major file types, and excellent support from both the developers and a committed community.

Beginners may be a little daunted by the versatility here, so we recommend using a simpler slicer like Cura to begin, but once you’ve nailed the basics, Simplify3d is a great environment to hone your skills and gain absolute control over the slicing process.

Slic3r

Slic3r is another open-source slicer program that is largely responsible for most of the advanced features we’ve come to expect from a slicer these days – brims, variable layer heights, unusual infill patterns, and much more.

With such a focus on innovation, Slic3r is chiefly geared towards established enthusiasts and makers with years of printing under their belt who a glut of features won’t put off. Newcomers may be overwhelmed with the depth of the program. 

Slic3r is compatible with MacOS, Windows, and Linux systems and is available for free on the Slic3r website. Unlike Cura and others, Slic3r has very few profiles, so expect plenty of custom tinkering to hone in our settings that work for your 3D printer.

FAQ:

Is Creality Slicer Based on Cura?

Yes, Creality Slicer is based on Cura. It’s what is called a fork of the open-source Cura, meaning Creality has taken the based UI, interface, and underlying code and then modified it to better serve its range of printers. Other than a few changes to settings, color scheme, and printer profiles, the two programs are virtually identical in most respects.

All hovering around the $500 – $600 price range, they make dual color and dual filament printing more accessible than ever before.

It can be a challenge to pick which printer is going to best serve your needs, though. They all offer different printing experiences, including unique features that are difficult to add with DIY or upgrading.

We’ll go over the main pros and cons of each, plus add information on why certain features are good and who they cater to (ex. Newer hobbyists). By the end of it, you should have a better idea of what IDEX printer will serve your needs the best.

Without further ado, let’s dive in.

Sovol SV04 vs Flashforge Creator Pro 2 vs Tenlog TL-D3 Pro: A Quick Summary

Sovol SV04

• Price: Check latest price at Sovol 3D here / Amazon here
• Build volume: 300 x 300 x 400 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, TPU, TPE, HIPS, ABS, PETG, Wood, PC, PA, PVA, ASA
• Layer height: 100 – 400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 260°C
• Max bed temp: 100°C
• Connectivity: SD Card, Data Cable

Sovol 3D’s foray into IDEX dual extruder printers is the SV04. It has a flexible magnetic plate, and a surprisingly large build volume for the price.

The SV04 has a build volume of 300 x 300 x 400 mm. I consider that a large volume printer, and should be more than enough for most hobbyists. It also has a max extruder temperature of 260°C and a max bed temp of 100°C.

It can handle a range of filaments, including PLA, TPU, TPE, HIPS, ABS, PETG, Wood, PC, PA, PVA, and ASA. Although it’s true that most of these filaments should be pretty easy for the SV04, you might want to upgrade the nozzle to make the most out of harsher filaments like wood.

Despite the low price, I was impressed by the quality of life features that the SV04 has to offer. Not only is there the flexible magnetic plate, but it has auto bed-leveling, a filament sensor, and a touch screen.

If you don’t want to spend a lot but you want a lot in return, the SV04 is a solid option as far as IDEX printers go. I have a standalone review of the Sovol SV04 if you want more detail on its functionality.

Sovol SV04 IDEX 3D Printer

Sovol here

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Flashforge Creator Pro 2

• Price: Check latest price at Flashforge here / Amazon here
• Build volume: 200 x 148 x 150 mm
• Filament compatibility: ABS, PLA, PVA, HIPS
• Layer height: 100 – 400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 240°C 
• Max bed temp: 120°C
• Connectivity: SD Card

Unlike the original Creator Pro, Flashforge’s Creator Pro 2 uses direct drive IDEX to let you use multiple colors and filaments at the same time. It’s still ‘budget’ for an IDEX printer, but the low price didn’t stop Flashforge from giving the Pro 2 an enclosure.

Enclosed printers have superior temperature control, which can make them more newbie-friendly by reducing the likelihood of certain problems. But new or not, preventing issues like warping is a plus for any hobbyist.

You shouldn’t expect it to be a quiet printer, though– the Pro 2 tends to be loud despite the enclosed design. The drawbacks don’t stop there. It has a very high-cling aluminum build plate, which makes it a challenge to safely remove prints.

The Creator Pro 2 also doesn’t have as high of a maximum extruder temperature as the other printers we’re reviewing here: it peaks at 240°C and 120°C for the bed. The result is less access to the exciting filaments.

Another downside is that it has a build volume of only 200 x 148 x 150 mm (smaller than the Ender 3) and no auto-leveling or filament sensor. It might be hard to justify these feature deficits, even with the enclosure and touchscreen.

Ultimately, we think the Creator Pro 2’s enclosed IDEX design can really shine with some upgrades to the nozzle and print bed. It just requires a bit more care than some other options! 

Mid-Range pick

Flashforge Creator Pro 2

4.0

$549-999

Overall, the Creator Pro 2 is an excellent next step for makers comfortable with basic 3D printing looking for more advanced features without breaking the bank.

The sturdy, enclosed print chamber handles both PLA and ABS. But the star is the independent dual extruder system, a rarity at this price point.

Flashforge here Amazon here

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Tenlog Tl-D3 Pro

• Price: Check latest price Amazon here
• Build volume: 300 x 300 x 350 mm
• Filament compatibility: TPU, PVA, PLA, ABS, HIPS, PETG, Wood, most flexible filaments
• Layer height: 100 – 400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 300°C
• Max bed temp: 110°C
• Connectivity: SD Card, USB

The Tenlog TL-D3 is the most expensive of these three printers, but not by much– and it has plenty to offer in return! Right off the bat, it can offer direct drive IDEX and a hefty build volume of 300 x 300 x 350 mm.

It also has a higher than usual maximum extruder temperature of 300°C and a max bed temperature of 110°C. This lets the TL-D3 Pro use a wonderful range of filaments including PVA, PLA, ABS, HIPS, PETG, Wood, TPU, and most other flexible filaments.

The Borosilicate glass build plate is a happy medium between the best options and the mediocre once. Glass plates have good adhesion, but don’t tend to be over the top like aluminum. They last a while, too!

Quality of life features on the TL-D3 Pro are a little hit or miss. It has a touch screen and filament sensor. On the flip side, it doesn’t have auto-leveling and certainly isn’t enclosed like the Creator Pro 2.

One of the best features of the TL-D3 isn’t related to the build volume, or its filament compatibility. Instead, the TL-D3 deserves praise for having linear rails on all three axes. These rails directly result in smooth, precise movements that are a benefit for any printer– but especially so for an IDEX printer.

This feature alone is enough to set the TL-D3 Pro apart from other dual extrusion printers. It’s safe to say that you should also think long and hard about passing up on the filament friendliness and feature richness that it offers.

TENLOG TL-D3 Pro 3D Printer

Amazon here

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Comparison Showdown

Build Volume

• Sovol SV04 – 300 x 300 x 400 mm
• Flashforge Creator Pro 2 – 200 x 148 x 150 mm
• Tenlog TI-D3 Pro – 300 x 300 x 350 mm

Although the Creator Pro 2 lags behind the others by a significant margin, the TI-D3 Pro and SV04 are actually very close in build volume. The greater z-axis on the SV04 may only be 50 mm, but it does have a lot of potential.

If you’re creating dual-color cosplay pieces or statuettes, prioritizing build volume isn’t a bad thing at all. That being said, the TI-D3 Pro could still be optimal because of other features.

For example, I 3D printed both of these large vases shown below at the same time, using the IDEX capabilities of the Sovol SV04. This would not be possible with the Flashforge Creator Pro 2’s build volume limitations.

The most important thing to keep in mind is that you won’t be satisfied with the Creator Pro 2 unless you only want to print very small objects. It will prove to be a disappointing investment if, down the line, you want more.

Enclosure

• Sovol SV04 – Not Enclosed
• Flashforge Creator Pro 2 – Enclosed
• Tenlog TI-D3 Pro – Not Enclosed

The small build volume might be excusable once you consider the Creator Pro 2 offers an enclosure. Enclosed designs are often saved for pricier printers, and they definitely make things easier.

There are two main benefits to an enclosure: they maintain an even, warm temperature around the print bed and they prevent airflow from entering the print area. These benefits help avoid problems like warping, but they also ensure stable outputs.

Even if you’re not making your 3D printing hobby into a full-on business, the consistency of an enclosed printer might be nice if you ever want to sell some of your pieces on Etsy.

Another very desirable side effect is that certain specialty filaments are easier to work with if you have an enclosure. In general, a stable environment means less troubleshooting and more fun prints.

Build Plate

• Sovol SV04 – Flexible magnetic plate
• Flashforge Creator Pro 2 – Aluminum
• Tenlog TI-D3 Pro – Borosilicate glass

Out of the three, the SV04 has the best build plate even though it’s the cheapest. A flexible magnetic plate has pretty much everything. It’s easy to remove prints, still has good adhesion, and will last a long time. Removable plates also tend to be easier to clean and perform maintenance on.

The TI-D3 Pro’s borosilicate glass is a decent second option. It’s long-lasting and has good adhesion, but you’ll likely still use a scraper to get some prints off.

Glass is definitely better than the Creator Pro 2’s aluminum, though. Frankly, seeing an aluminum build plate at this price point is a disappointment. Aluminum tends to be difficult to work with since many prints will adhere to it too strongly to safely remove.

Filament Compatibility

• Sovol SV04 – PLA, TPU, TPE, HIPS, ABS, PETG, Wood, PC, PA, PVA, ASA
• Flashforge Creator Pro 2 – ABS, PLA, PVA, HIPS
• Tenlog TI-D3 Pro – TPU, PVA, PLA, ABS, HIPS, PETG, Wood, most flexible filaments

The TI-D3 Pro can work with the widest range of filaments, but the SV04 is a close second. Sovol advertises the SV04 as working with many, many filaments. They aren’t wrong, but the TI-D3 Pro can use all of those filaments, too.

Tenlog just doesn’t list PC, PA, PVA, TPE, and ASA on their product page. In fact, the TI-D3 might actually have more potential because the extruder can withhold higher temperatures of 300°C compared to the SV04’s 260°C.

As reflected by the list of usable filaments, the Creator Pro 2 is the most restrictive. Although it has an enclosed design, the aluminum build plate and the 240°C max extruder doesn’t do it any favors.

We expect the Pro 2 to have a much better range if you put in a little bit of effort and cash into making basic upgrades. The enclosure means it has the potential to work with finicky filaments like nylon, so long as the other parts are up to par.

Auto Bed-Leveling

• Sovol SV04 – Yes
• Flashforge Creator Pro 2 – No
• Tenlog TI-D3 Pro – No

The cheapest printer, the SV04, is the only one to have auto bed-leveling. It uses a copy of good old BL Touch to help with leveling.

Although it might seem like a meaningful strike against the Creator Pro 2 and the TI-D3 Pro, bed-leveling is more of a nice-to-have and not a need-to-have. Beds will likely come automatically leveled, and especially in the case of glass, are usually quite even already.

Auto-leveling doesn’t ensure that you’ll have no work to do or no issues will arise, either. All in all, it’s doubtlessly important; But auto leveling is not the end of the line.

Price

• Sovol SV04 – $500
• Flashforge Creator Pro 2 – $550
• Tenlog TI-D3 Pro – $560

The SV04 is the cheapest printer out of the bunch, which certainly makes it a tempting offer. It doesn’t have any crucial upgrades and it works fine out of the box. For those reasons, it wins when it comes to cost alone.

The TI-D3 Pro has key upgrades that make the extra $60 very worthwhile, though. It still has a decent build plate and a big build volume, and the linear rails make it truly special. 

Actually, the Creator Pro 2 also has a unique feature that makes it worth the extra money with its enclosed design. Between the linear rails and the enclosure, it’s difficult to price out the “cost savings” on the SV04. These printers offer different things, pure and simple.

If we had to say, the Creator Pro 2 is the worst deal if only because of the cheap aluminum build plate. Even without upgrading anything else, getting a new flexible Flashforge build plate will run you at least $30.

Sovol SV04 vs Flashforge Creator Pro 2 vs Tenlog TL-D3 Pro – The Bottom Line

When it comes to out of the box functionality, the Tenlog TL-D3 Pro pulls ahead. We suggest purchasing the TL-D3 if you want the best non-enclosed, discount IDEX printer.

TENLOG TL-D3 Pro 3D Printer

Amazon here

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Although the SV04 is a solid choice (and is really quite similar in many ways), it’s edged out just slightly because of the TL-D3’s linear rails and higher extruder temperature tolerance.

Sovol SV04 IDEX 3D Printer

Sovol here

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Of course, it’s still fine to purchase the SV04 if the cost savings mean that much to you. We feel it could be a great option for new hobbyists, since it has auto-leveling and works fine for out of the box printing. The flexible build plate makes things even easier.

For the sake of stable, consistent printing, the Creator Pro 2 deserves a mention. It’s the obvious choice if you want an enclosed printer, as the only real choice for enclosed IDEX printers in this price range.

Mid-Range pick

Flashforge Creator Pro 2

4.0

$549-999

Overall, the Creator Pro 2 is an excellent next step for makers comfortable with basic 3D printing looking for more advanced features without breaking the bank.

The sturdy, enclosed print chamber handles both PLA and ABS. But the star is the independent dual extruder system, a rarity at this price point.

Flashforge here Amazon here

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Unfortunately, the small build volume, subpar build plate, and mediocre filament compatibility make it a hard sell outside of that. The Pro 2 is for people who are interested in upgrading and don’t care about build volume, but not for extreme low-budgets or total newbies.

But it might not be obvious which is the best Ender 3 you.

For most people, the Ender 3 is the best choice – combining good build volume, great reliability, and a wide range of compatible filaments for such a low price.

It’s a great budget pick that will cover the needs of 80% of users.

But if you’re looking to print larger projects, you’ll want to look at the Ender 3 Max – which has almost triple the build volume. It has a bunch of other upgrades that improve the print quality – but it’s the most expensive pick.

The middle-of-the-road picks – the Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 V2 – have a few updates on the original, both aesthetic and practical.

I’ll explain all the differences to help you decide which Ender 3 is best for you.

The Creality Ender 3 Series

Ever since their founding in 2014, Chinese manufacturer Creality have built a stellar reputation for high-quality, low-priced 3D printers. Producing everything from 3D printers to their own line of filaments and resins, they have won numerous industry awards in their relatively short existence.  

Creality’s crowning glory, and their most popular line, is the Ender 3 series of FDM 3D printers. The original was a runaway success, and with the Ender 3 Pro, V2, and Max now available, we compare the differences and make our recommendations.

Ender 3

• Price: $165 — Available on Creality Store here / Available on Amazon here

First released in March 2018, the base Ender 3 model is by no means a weak entry. In fact, in terms of value for money, it may just be one of the best 3D printers on the market today.

You can buy an Ender 3 for under $200, and you get a lot for that small price tag. Firstly, it has a very competitive build volume, at 220 x 220 x 250mm, making it capable of printing fairly large parts. 

It also has a heated magnetic build plate that can reach its maximum temperature of 110°C in just 5 minutes.

It also has a versatile extruder that makes it more reliable for 3D printing flexible filaments, a common issue for cheap 3D printers. On top of this, the industrial-grade circuit board allows the Ender 3 to print continuously for over 200 hours without issue.

Creality even partially assembles the printer before shipping, so you can build it and get printing within less than an hour — making it accessible for beginners, and a perfect tool for classroom learning.

If you’re looking for a reliable budget pick, you can check our guide to Ender 3 Alternatives for similar printers.

Ender 3 Pro

• Price: $235 — Available on Creality Store here / Available on Amazon here

The Ender 3 Pro was released in September of the same year and was designed to fix a lot of the niggling problems that many users experienced with the original model.

It has many of the same features as the standard Ender 3, with an identical build volume and build plate, print speed, and filament capacity. 

However, there were a few notable changes that set it apart from its predecessor:

Users complained that the original Ender 3 had issues with the build plate wobbling during printing, making the bed unstable and compromising the parts. To fix this, Creality designed a new 40x40mm extrusion for the Y-axis of the build plate. This made a marked improvement to the Ender 3 Pro’s stability.

Creality also added better bearing wheels to reduce friction and make the structure stiffer, which improved print quality and added rubber feet to reduce noise.

Additionally, Creality modified where the cooling fan sat within the Ender 3 Pro. The base model’s fan attachment sat above the build area, which often caused filament dust to be left across the build plate and part. The Ender 3 Pro moved the fan underneath, eradicating this problem.

These changes certainly improve the build quality of the printer, but in exchange, you pay around $50 extra.

Ender 3 Max

• Price: $349 — Available on Amazon here

The Ender 3 Max, released in 2020, scaled up the Ender 3’s already decent size. The Ender 3 Max increased the build volume to 300 x 300 x 340mm, an almost tripled total build volume. This brings it close to the Creality CR-10’s size.

In fact, every element of the Ender 3 Max is designed for higher performance.

The all-metal extruder is unparalleled in the series for filament feed-in. It also has a Carborundum glass bed for better adhesion during printing, making for better quality prints and less warping. It has dual cooling fans for reduced warping during cooldown, and a larger power supply to support the larger machine.

For more size and power, you pay more — around $350.

Ender 3 V2

• Price: $279 — Available on Creality Store here / Available on Amazon here

2020 also saw the release of the Ender 3 V2. It gave the printer a much-needed facelift, as well as a few mechanical upgrades. All these combined, and the V2 is a much sleeker and more streamlined machine.

The most notable visual upgrade is the new design of the case. The first three models were very bare, with exposed wires and minimal paneling. The V2 encloses all of its circuitry within an attractive and modern-looking metal case, giving it a more professional appearance. This has allowed for the fitting of a hidden compartment for storing tools and materials, making the whole thing self-contained.

The user interface has also been updated, with a new detachable color screen which makes controlling the device much easier and clearer.

And there are even more improvements when it comes to performance:

The new 32-bit motherboard reduces the noise made by previous models, for near-silent printing. A new rotary knob has been added to the extruder for easier filament movement which helps prevent clogging. 

Additionally, Creality have added a new tensioner to the timing belt to make printing much smoother and fix the reported stability issues.

It even has a new function that pauses, stores, and resumes programming should there be a power outage. Gone are the days where you could be 46 hours into a 50-hour print and have your print ruined by a momentary power cut.

These improvements come with a higher cost, but the Ender 3 V2 still sells at a very reasonable $289.

There’s also the brand-new Ender 3 V2 Neo, and you can read our hands-on review here.

Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro vs Ender 3 V2 vs Ender 3 Max: Compared

With such nuanced similarities and differences between each Ender 3 model, it can be difficult to deduce which is the best Ender 3 printer for you.

So, here’s our breakdown, point by point, and to see which is best for you:

Build Volume

There is very little to debate here.

The Ender 3 Max is by far the largest edition with the highest build volume, at 300 x 300 x 340 mm.

This is much larger than the standard Ender 3, the Ender 3 Pro, and the Ender 3 V2, which all have a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm.

The Ender 3 Max is the go-to choice for a large 3D printer, but if you’re not planning on printing super-large projects, it’ll be down to these next factors that affect your choice of Ender 3 3D printer:

Build Speed

Each Ender 3 3D printer’s print speed is pretty much the same, with a recommended speed of between 30-60mm/s — depending on your filament, print settings, and how delicate and precise your model is.

However, if you enjoy living dangerously and pushing technology to the limit, all four models are able to work at up to 180mm/s, although this does come with a major caveat of being highly unreliable and you’ll lose print quality.

If speed is your primary concern, check out our guide to the fastest 3D printers in every price range .

Extruder Temperature

Both nozzle temperature and bed temperature are very respectable across the line. 

The Ender 3 V2 has a maximum extruder temperature of 255°C, while the other three models are capable of reaching a slightly higher 260°C. Higher temperatures mean you can print tougher filaments like ABS, Nylon, ASA — and if you can reach super high temperatures, PC and PEEK.

A heated printer bed helps with allowing the material to adhere to the baseplate and provides a stable platform for construction.

The Ender 3 Max and Ender 3 V2 are able to operate at 100°C heated bed temperatures, while the standard Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro are capable of 110°C, for improved bed adhesion.

Stability

The original Ender 3 received complaints about the overall stability of the printer, with a wobbly baseplate and shuddering arms that compromised the quality of the part when produced. 

The Ender 3 Pro sought to correct these issues and since those changes were made, the later editions were designed using the same technology.

Extra support beams beneath the baseplate and tighter construction of the printer as a whole, introduced in the Ender 3 Pro, means that any model built after this has a distinct stability advantage over the standard.

Production Quality

Another aspect corrected in later editions was the part quality being compromised. The Ender 3 was noted to leave fine filament dust scattered across the part and baseplate which required extra care to prevent or remove.

This was due to the positioning of the cooling fans above the build area. Once the Ender 3 Pro moved the fans underneath, these difficulties were eliminated and the later editions followed suit.

Design

When it comes to the design aspect, by far the runaway leader is the Ender 3 V2. 

The sheet metal casing surrounding the circuitry not only gives the printer a more professional aesthetic but is also a lot safer as there are no loose electrics or bare wires.

If you still feel as though something is missing, check out our guide to Ender 3 upgrades for both printable and buyable options.

User Interface

Similarly, the Ender 3 V2 outstrips its sister models in terms of its user interface. The introduction of the new 4.9-inch color screen makes operating the printer much easier. There is also something to be said for the more modern-looking casing for the screen as well.

Value for Money

While the price of these printers varies wildly depending on the seller, comparing the price of each model means the standard Ender 3 model stands out as the best value for money. 

While there are limitations that were overcome in later models, for such a low price, even the most price-conscious makers can justify splurging on an Ender 3.

The Ender 3 is certainly the best value for money in the series, and maybe in the entire industry altogether. You can compare it to the premium version in our Ender 3 vs Ender 5 guide.

Conclusion: Which Ender 3 3D printer should you buy?

The different models within the Ender 3 series mean that there is enough variety to cater to a range of 3D printing needs. Given the price points, it is more than likely that these printers will be favorites of hobbyists or perhaps small business owners.

In that regard, it is important to examine the nature of your production setup, and what you really need from a 3D printer. If you need much larger parts, you will have to go for the Ender 3 Max, but it is unlikely that this is a requirement for most.

The standard Ender 3 is the best value for money. It is hard-wearing, versatile, reliable, easy to operate, and, perhaps most important, incredibly cheap. There are few models better in the 3D printing world for giving accessibility for those interested in the craft.

And for a generally improved and more relaxed 3D printing experience, opt for the Ender 3 V2 and its slew of useful upgrades.

If you enjoyed this article, check out our other Ender 3/Pro/V2 comparisons to learn more:

• Comparing Ender 3 and Adventurer 3 3D Printers in 2023
• Which is Best: Elegoo Neptune 2/3 vs Ender 3
• Our Prusa i3 MK3S+ and Ender 3 Comparison
• Is the Ender S1 Pro Much Better Than the Standard Ender S1?
• Ender 3 S1 (& V2 Neo) vs Anycubic Kobra
• Comparison Between Voxelab Aquila X2 and the Ender 3 V2
• How Does the Ender 3 V2 Compare to the Ender 5?

I recommend the Anycubic Kobra for beginners looking for an affordable 3D printer that is compact, easy to use, and will produce good-quality prints right out-of-the-box.

The Vyper, on the other hand, is a premium option with a larger build volume and faster print speeds, making it a good choice for experienced users who want to print more ambitious projects.

With hands-on experience testing both the Anycubic Kobra and Vyper, I’ll help you work out which is best for you, comparing their features and specifications to zero in on what sets them apart. 

Is the Anycubic Vyper’s boosted build volume worth the extra spend, or will you be more than content with the compact Anycubic Kobra? Let’s find out.

Anycubic Kobra vs Vyper: A Quick 3D Printer Comparison

BUDGET PICK

Anycubic Kobra

Print Technology: FDM

Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm

Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU

Layer height: 50-300 microns

Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm

Max nozzle temp: 260°C

Max bed temp: 110°C

Connectivity: USB, Micro SD Card

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

PREMIUM PICK

Anycubic Vyper

Print Technology: FDM

Build volume: 245 x 245 x 260 mm

Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU

Layer height: 50-300 microns

Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm

Max nozzle temp: 260°C

Max bed temp: 110°C

Connectivity: USB, Micro SD Card

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

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Anycubic Kobra

The Anycubic Kobra launched in 2022 to rave reviews, including our own, redefining what we should come to expect from race-to-the-bottom entry-level 3D printers and making an emphatic claim to the Ender 3’s budget king crown. 

With hassle-free automatic mesh bed leveling, sensorless homing, a convenient PEI-coated magnetic bed, and a direct drive extruder setup, the Anycubic Kobra doesn’t just tick off many quality-of-life boxes but produces impressive quality prints and, with a little shepherding in the right direction, is a genuine pleasure to use.

Compromises to cut costs are present but appear in places that don’t affect the print quality or experience too much, namely a plastic heavy print head casing.

Finicky software wrangling and the absence of tuned slicer profiles detract from the worry-free printing promised by the best Anycubic 3D printers. Still, the Kobra delivers enough top-flight features for the price that we’ll excuse these.

Anycubic Vyper

A tad longer in the tooth than the newly-launched Kobra, the Anycubic Vyper hit the market to similar critical fanfare, defining itself as offering a digestible and intimidating introduction to the marvelous world of 3D printing to newcomers. Here at 3DSourced, we were impressed with everything the Vyper offers.

It removes much of the initial setup and tedious leg work with automatic mesh bed leveling, the same ultra-adhesive PEI-coated magnetic bed as the Kobra, a dual-gear extruder, and a Volcano-style hot end. In action, this means no first-layer woes, easy setup, and excellent value for the money.

It also has an above-average 260 x 245 x 245 mm build volume to tackle larger projects and print-in-place parts.

Much like the Kobra, the Anycubic Vyper relies on tuning to perform at its best, but this also makes it an exciting proposition for seasoned makers looking for a versatile budget workhorse to supplement an existing fleet of printers.

Anycubic Vyper vs Kobra: At a Glance

Best for value: For pure value at a price that rivals, and sometimes improves, many of the best low-cost 3D printers, the Anycubic Kobra is ideal for beginners. It’s compact, easy to use, and pumps out good quality prints out-of-the-box. The Kobra should follow along as your skills develop, coming to life as you learn to tame and tune its minor downsides.

Premium option: The Anycubic Vyper emerges as the best option for those who will use the extra build volume and the increased print speeds offered by its Bowden extruder setup. Whether these features are worth the additional $60 is debatable, especially if you’re a first-timer who’ll be more than content with what the lower-cost Kobra offers.

Anycubic Kobra vs Anycubic Vyper: 3D Printer Comparison

Build Volume

The Anycubic Kobra offers a 220 x 220 x 250 mm build volume, while the Anycubic Vyper pushes to 245 x 245 x 260 mm, exceeding what we’d expect in this price range.

A large build volume equates to more print options: more efficient batch printing and larger parts, for example.

The Anycubic Kobra’s build volume is bang on average when compared to 3D printers in its price range. Those dimensions should allow you to print a vast cross-section of popular hobbyist projects from your favorite video game characters and display pieces through to functional and household parts.

If the Vyper’s extra millimeters seem surplus to requirement and you’re on a budget, the Anycubic Kobra emerges as the better option.

However, if the Kobra’s average build volume is likely to limit your printing projects, but you don’t need the kind of space found on a large format printer like the Ender 5 Plus, the Anycubic Vyper offers a well-priced compromise.

Which is best: Anycubic Vyper.

Print Bed

Both the Anycubic Kobra and Vyper feature a PEI-coated removable magnetic spring steel build platform.

It consists of a 3M magnetic sticker, a spring steel sheet, and a coated top layer. It’s scratch-resistant and can be washed to remove any filament, oil, or other dirt with soap and water. The flexibility of the print bed allows you to flex and pop off finished prints with little effort.

The top coating is coarsely textured to improve first-layer adhesion, removing the need for extra adhesives like glue or tape. The textured surface leaves a grainy imprint on the underside of prints, spoiling first-layer details, but this applies to both printers, so it’s unavoidable whichever you buy.

There’s also the option to replace the existing surface with a glass plate or a less textured flexible plate.

Which is best: draw.

Bed Leveling

Although the Anycubic Kobra and Vyper offer convenient automatic bed leveling – still rare in this price range – the former uses a more refined version of Anycubic’s first-attempt, rudimentary ABL setup found on the Vyper.

While leveling the bed on both printers is a breeze, and both use a point mesh leveling routine to map out inconsistencies on the bed and compensate for them, we found the Kobra slightly surpasses its older stablemate.

The Kobra’s LeviQ inductive probe is somewhat more refined and accurate than the Vyper’s pressure strain gauge system – 24 mesh points rather than the Vyper’s 16.

The leveling results are roughly equivalent, so we’re nitpicking here. But, considering the Kobra costs less, it’s an advantage that makes us lean in the newer printer’s favor.

Which is best: draw/Kobra.

Extruder

Aside from build volume, the type of extruder setup is where the Anycubic Kobra and Vyper differ the most from one another.

The Kobra features a direct drive extruder – the filament feeds directly in the hot end assembly, pushed and pulled by a straightforward toothed drive gear extruder integrated into the print head.

Direct extruders add additional mass to the print head, but a shorter filament path allows for better retraction performance, extrusion consistency, and support for trickier flexibles. The extra weight the direct systems carry around can affect speed and travel accuracy due to increased wobble and vibrations, but the Kobra’s plastic-heavy casing design keeps things light.

In our experience, it mitigates the typical downside of a direct extruder well. It’s one of the better direct drive extruder implementations we’ve come across for an under $300 printer.

The Anycubic Vyper employs a Bowden system. A dual-geared extruder sits separate from the print head (usually mounted to the frame) and pushes the filament through an extended cut of tubing toward the hot end.

The chief benefit is a lighter print head, allowing for faster print speeds and smoother movements, but at a cost to retraction accuracy. Bowden systems also tend to increase the likelihood of flexible filaments like TPU jamming or snapping in the tube.

There’s no clear winner here as both systems have pros and cons. If you plan on dabbling into squishy flexibles, you’ll likely have an easier time with the Kobra than the Vyper.

Which is best: depends on what you plan to use the printer for.

Material Compatibility

The Anycubic Kobra and Anycubic Vyper boast identical material compatibility – PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU – enabled by matching top max 260°C nozzle temperature and max 110°C heated bed temperature.  

Without an enclosure, ABS will be tricky to print on both machines. You can purchase one directly from Anycubic or build one yourself.

PLA is where both printers shine, though with the proper tuning, both confidently churn out good quality flexible and PETG prints. On equal footing, then.

Ease of Use and Assembly

Anycubic provides some of the industry’s most concise and informative assembly and quick-start instructions, and this is no different with the Kobra and Vyper.

Both ship with a color booklet and a USB drive with even more resources to ease the build and setup process. The transformation from boxed parts to a print-ready machine is a cinch and shouldn’t take more than 30 minutes, even if either the Kobra or Vyper is your first printer.

Both machines feature the same responsive 4.3″ touch screen and slightly pared-down but easy-to-navigate interface. They also sport USB and SD Card connectivity, though the Kobra shrinks the latter down to the Mini variant.

Overall, the Anycubic Kobra and Anycubic Vyper are cut from the same signature Anycubic cloth – a frictionless, enjoyable experience that removes the more tedious aspects of 3D printing. In that sense, there’s little to set them apart.

Though the printers benefit from some nurturing and settings tuning, both of Anycubic’s inexpensive printers try and largely succeed at making 3D printing as hassle-free as possible.

Price

Price is a major factor in most purchasing decisions, especially in low-cost printers. After all, we’re looking for those standout machines that strike that elusive balance between price, features, and performance.

Not much separates the Anycubic Kobra and Anycubic Vyper: a slim $60.

In the context of a $300 printer, $60 looms as quite a substantial amount. So, the question is whether the Vyper’s build volume boost and nippier dual-gear Bowden extruder provide enough value for you to shell out the extra coin.

If that’s a resounding no, save some money and go for the Kobra. Worthy features, all-around usability, and impressive printing capabilities make it a strong buy and the most-value packed budget printer on the market today.

Anycubic Kobra vs Anycubic Vyper – The Winner

With so little setting the two printers apart, there’s no clear-cut winner in our Anycubic Kobra vs Anycubic Vyper head-to-head. It really depends on what you’re personally looking for.

For first-timers on a budget, the Vyper doesn’t offer much more than the Kobra that will prove useful for everyday hobby projects. The slightly smaller build volume will be fine for you.

For power users wanting that extra build volume and the benefits of the Bowden extruder, the Vyper may prove a wiser investment.

Whichever printer you settle on, be assured that both tap into what we’ve come to expect from Anycubic’s excellent FDM range: a sleek, low-cost, reliable printer that’s a lot of fun to use.

BUDGET PICK

Anycubic Kobra

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

PREMIUM PICK

Anycubic Vyper

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

Related articles:

• Anycubic Kobra vs Kobra Plus vs Kobra Max
• Anycubic Mega S vs SE vs X vs Mega Pro vs Chiron
• Anycubic Photon Mono vs Elegoo Mars 2 & 3
• Anycubic Mono X vs Elegoo Saturn

These 3 machines have everything you need to get started with resin printing at a very fair price – but after using them, I’ve discovered a couple of important differences.

For ease of use, you can’t beat the Photon Mono 4K. Anycubic’s streamlined software and adjustable power make it a more straightforward 3D printing experience than the Elegoo options.

But if you’re more confident using 3D printers, the Elegoo Mars 3 has a larger build volume than the Photon Mono 4K – so you’re less limited in the size of prints you can tackle.

However, for the best value, you might consider the lower-spec Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. If you’re okay with a lower-resolution screen, it is a super affordable beginner choice for a first resin 3D printer.

BEST CONSISTENT PICK

Elegoo Mars 3

Available at:

Elegoo here Amazon here

BEST FOR BEGINNERS

Anycubic Photon Mono 4K

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

In this comparison, I’ll compare my experience across important aspects such as build volume, print quality, software, connectivity, and more.

So let’s work out which of the Elegoo Mars and Anycubic Photon range is best for you.

3DSourced is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more

Elegoo Mars vs Anycubic Photon – The Printers

The original Elegoo Mars and Anycubic Photon printers aren’t competitive anymore, and newer releases have improved them greatly. Here are the printers we’ll cover from Anycubic and Elegoo.

Elegoo: Mars 2 Pro, and Mars 3

Anycubic: Photon Mono 4K

If you’re looking for a budget printer, focus on the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro or 3 vs the Mono 4K, and if you’re able to spend a bit more, look at the Mono X 6K.

Anycubic Photon Mono 4K

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Printing technology: Resin MSLA
• Build volume: 132 x 80 x 165 mm
• XY resolution: 35 microns
• LCD: 4K LCD
• Connectivity: USB

Bigger than the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, but smaller than the Elegoo Mars 3, the Mono 4K offers a decent 132 x 80 x 165 mm build area.

The main improvement over the standard Photon Mono is the 6.23” 4K LCD screen, making for better resolutions – 35 microns, the same as the Elegoo 3.

Anycubic Photon Mono 4K 3D Printer

$299

Anycubic Store here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

You can’t print super big or tall, but what the Photon Mono 4K does print is impressive.

The Mono 4K is our top pick for an affordable entry-level resin printer – it’s under $250 and does an amazing job. The only question is whether you’re comfortable with the build volume, in which case we recommend you go for a printer in the Mono X range, or an Elegoo Saturn, but these cost a few hundred dollars extra.

Elegoo Mars 2 Pro

• Price: Check latest price at Elegoo here / Amazon here
• Printing technology: Resin MSLA
• Build volume: 129 x 80 x 160 mm
• XY resolution: 50 microns
• LCD: 2K LCD

It’s cheap, and there are newer, more powerful upgrades like the Elegoo Mars 3, but we were still impressed with the detail on prints we made with the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, even down to the smallest details such as teeth and other features.

Elegoo Mars 2 Pro Resin 3D Printer

Around $200 if on sale

Elegoo here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

It’s easy to set up and use, and capable of superb print quality with little fuss, setting a benchmark for low-cost consumer resin usability that resonates to this day.

The 2K 6” LCD is good – and if you’re on a budget, you’ll still be very happy with the resolution. Yes, 4K or even 6K screens are even better, but that doesn’t mean that you don’t get more than adequate results on the Mars 2 Pro. You can see below the quality of prints we managed to print with our Elegoo Mars 2 Pro.

The 129 x 80 x 160 mm build volume is decent – again, more expensive resin printers offer larger. But for printing a few miniatures, it’s more than enough.

Beginners won’t be overwhelmed, but there’s room to experiment and tune based on your needs.

Read the full review: Elegoo Mars 2 Pro test

Elegoo Mars 3

• Price: Check latest price at Elegoo here / Amazon here
• Printing technology: Resin MSLA
• Build volume: 143.43 x 90 x 175 mm
• XY resolution: 35 microns
• LCD: 4K LCD

The next level up is the Mars 3, with its 4K screen versus the Mars 2 and Mars 2 Pro’s 2K

This new extra resolution shows. While the Mars 2 Pro offers great results, the Mars 3 is even better, with 50% improved accuracy. The Mars 3 brings down the XY resolution from 50 microns to an astonishing 35 microns, especially considering the price range.

Elegoo Mars 3 Pro Resin 3D Printer

Elegoo Store here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

It also boasts superior heat distribution and a larger build volume. It also runs very quietly owing to the more powerful mainboard – at only 35-45dB.

The heat distribution makes finished resin prints easier to remove without affecting surface finish when scraping them, as well as improving adhesion to the build plate. This reduces errors – we all know the frustration of having a resin model adhere to the resin rather than the build plate causing it to fail.

Elegoo Mars vs Anycubic Photon – At a Glance

On the surface level, the Elegoo Mars 3 and Anycubic Photon Mono 4K look very similar.

Dive into specifics, as we’ll do below, and the differences become more apparent.

Overall, the Elegoo Mars 3 has a slightly larger build area, so if you want to produce more minis at once, you may prefer it.

However, there are many other subtle differences, which we’ll explain in more depth below.

Elegoo Mars 3 vs Anycubic Photon Mono 4K: Head-to-Head Comparison

LCD

We have two peas in a pod when it comes to the LCD.

The Anycubic Photon Mono 4K and Elegoo Mars 3 both carry a 4K mono LCD, and both are an improvement on their previous iterations, the Mars 2 Pro and Photon Mono, that had 2K LCDs.

There are also higher-spec versions: for the Anycubic range you have the Mono X 6K (6K screen), whereas for the Elegoo you have the Saturn (4K) and Saturn 2 (8K).

Both offer fantastic resolution for the price – they’re both the best-quality resin MSLA printers for the price, in our opinion.

Both feature a monochrome panel screen, rather than older versions that feature an RGB screen. This is a major improvement: not only are they more durable – with lifespans of several thousand hours – they’re also much faster.

Winner: Draw

Build Volume

Neither the Anycubic Photon nor the Elegoo Mars will blow you away with their build volumes. These are compact, entry-level resin printers aimed at small parts, miniatures, and models.

The Elegoo Mars inches slightly ahead with a 143.43 x 90 x 175 mm build volume compared to the Photon Mono 4K’s 132 x 80 x 165 mm. However, the Anycubic Photon M3, which costs around $50 more, offers an even larger 163 x 102 x 180 mm print area.

You’ll have to decide whether those extra millimeters have enough merit to sway your purchasing decision, but the Elegoo Mars 3 takes the lead here.

Winner: Elegoo Mars 3

Elegoo Mars vs Anycubic Photon – Build Quality and Assembly

Both the Anycubic Photon Mono 4K and Elegoo Mars 3 feature robust frames, a compact footprint, and reliable parts, each with a distinct look and feel.

Both have overhauled their printers with new features, improving already solid builds with higher-quality parts with precision in mind.

The Anycubic Photon Mono 4K features a powerful 15 LED light matric with over 90% light uniformity, as well as a high contrast monochrome grid that enhances accuracy, able to more sensitively cure resin for smooth yet sharp surface finishes. The solid z-axis rail structure is hugely important for a precise and accurate final print, with a stable stepper motor able to handle the precisions required in such small layer heights and fine resolutions.

The Elegoo Mars 3 upgrades the linear rails for better precision, smoother printing and a quieter 3D printing experience, as well as improving the build plate.

It’s now sandblasted, making your resin models easier to remove after printing (so you don’t need to scrape them hard, potentially damaging them), as well as making models less likely to fall off during print and fail. The new heat sink system is claimed to be 50% more efficient at dissipating heat.

Small things such as the larger 3.5″ inch touch screen on the Elegoo Mars vs 2.8” on Photon Mono 4K might make a difference to you – but for us they’re fairly minimal.

But overall, they’re largely the same. Both are two of the best-quality printers in the sub-$300 resin price range, and there isn’t a lot to separate them here.

Winner: Draw

Print Speed

If you’re looking to determine which is fastest out of the Anycubic Photon vs Elegoo Mars, it’s again very close. 

The Elegoo Mars comes in at around 30-50mm/hr, with 1.5-3 second layer cure times. The Anycubic Photon Mono 4K is around 50mm/hr also, able to cure around 12cm-tall models in 2.5 hours, with 1.5 second layer times.

So, if you’re looking to print 28mm-tall miniatures, expect it to take just over half an hour.

It may be that the Photon Mono 4K is slightly faster over a consistent amount of time, but for all intents and purposes, it’s equal.

Winner: Draw

Print Quality and XY Resolution

Both the Anycubic Photon and Elegoo Mars produce best-in-class quality for the price.

This high quality is especially noticeable if you’re accustomed to FDM printers. Smooth textures, accurate features, and fine details throughout – all the characteristics usually reserved for professional machines costing thousands only a few years back.

Print quality is indistinguishable between the two, chiefly due to vastly identical specifications.

Similarities also bleed into print precision as both hit an XY resolution of 35 microns. Though if you decide to save some money and get the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro instead of the Elegoo Mars 3, it has an XY resolution of 50 microns instead.

Winner: Draw

Connectivity

The connectivity options for our two contenders are identical, with both limited to a lone USB port.

For WiFi features, you’ll have to upgrade to a premium printer like the Anycubic Photon Mono X 6K. 

Winner: Draw

Elegoo Mars vs Anycubic Photon – Software

Both are compatible with ChiTuBox, a favorite in resin slicing. In fact, if you buy the Elegoo Mars 3, it currently comes with a year’s free ChiTuBox Pro, normally costing $150.

However, Anycubic has also developed its Anycubic Photon Workshop software, offering hassle-free out-of-the-box printing thanks to fine-tuned settings. 

These are genuine lifesavers for novices printing for the first time. But, they leave a bit to be desired in terms of advanced features and overall interface.

The Elegoo Mars’s ChiTuBox profile works beautifully. If you want to dive into a wealth of settings and fancy tools such as drain hole hollowing, support generation, and auto-layouts, there’s far more to play with than Photon’s software.

Personally, we’re big fans of ChiTuBox, but if you’re a beginner you may appreciate how easy Photon Workshop makes things.

Winner: Anycubic Photon for beginners, Elegoo Mars for advanced users

Material compatibility

The Anycubic Photon Mono 4K and Elegoo Mars range are both compatible with standard 405 nm photosensitive resin.

You can use both Anycubic and Elegoo’s respective resin or an equivalent third-party alternative with no discernible difference in print quality. Nor do Anycubic and Elegoo prevent the use of third-party materials like we’ve seen others do.

However, Anycubic offers an adjustable power feature on the Anycubic Photon Mono 4K, allowing you to switch between 30% and 100% power, so you can use it with other special non-405nm resins. This opens a range of other possibilities for your resin printing.

Winner: Anycubic Photon Mono 4K

Price

Since the first wave of Anycubic Photon and Elegoo Mars resin printers, prices have reduced over time as new models have hit the market.

As of writing, the Anycubic Photon Mono 4K is around $50 cheaper than the Elegoo Mars 3, with the Mars 3 costing around the same as the higher-spec Photon M3, which you may opt for. The Elegoo Mars 2 Pro is currently the cheapest of them all, hovering under $200 – but prices change so often that you should check the prices for yourself.

To save you time, the container below has direct links to everywhere you can buy the printers, so you can check the latest prices and get the best deal.

Winner: currently Anycubic Photon Mono 4K – but depends on sales.

BEST CONSISTENT PICK

Elegoo Mars 3

Available at:

Elegoo here Amazon here

BEST FOR BEGINNERS

Anycubic Photon Mono 4K

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

Elegoo Mars vs Anycubic Photon: The Winner

Elegoo Mars vs Anycubic Photon – Best Overall

Both machines deliver unquestionable value and are a pleasure to use, offering all the precision and detail of resin printing at a fantastic price point. Both have everything you need to get started with resin printing.

If build volume is important to you, then the Elegoo Mars 3 is better than the Photon Mono 4K. 

However, you may prefer Anycubic’s software, and adjustable power for special resin printing, in which case go for the Anycubic Photon Mono 4K.

Elegoo Mars vs Anycubic Photon – Best Value

Since at the moment the Anycubic Photon Mono 4K is cheaper, we lean towards that as the best value pick. However, check the latest prices to see if any sales or price reductions have changed this – though we try to update these as frequently as possible! 

The first time we wrote this comparison, the Elegoo was cheaper, so these things can change.

However, for the best value, you might consider the lower-spec Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, as despite the 2K LCD, it is so cheap now that it’s a great way to dip your toes into resin 3D printing for beginners or casual makers.

You might also want to consider the Anycubic Photon M3, the brand-new and larger resin option. It’s around the same price as the Mars 3, and has slightly worse XY resolution (40 microns vs 35 microns), but the significantly larger build volume may suit you if you’re looking to print a bunch of miniatures at the same time, or just generally print larger resin models.

You can check the latest prices to see which is the best value below.

Elegoo Mars 3

Available at:

Elegoo here Amazon here

Anycubic Photon Mono 4K

Available at:

Anycubic here Amazon here

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Elegoo Mars 3 / 3 Pro vs Anycubic Photon M3
• Elegoo Mars 3 4K vs Elegoo Mars 3 Pro 4K
• Elegoo Saturn vs Anycubic Photon Mono X
• Anycubic Kobra test review
• Anycubic Kobra vs Kobra Max vs Plus
• Elegoo Mars 2 Pro test review
• The best Anycubic 3D printers
• The best Elegoo 3D printers
• Anycubic Vyper test & review
• Anycubic Vyper vs Anycubic Kobra
• Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro vs 3 vs 2S vs 2 vs 2D vs X
• Elegoo Saturn vs Saturn S vs Saturn 2