Great Large-Volume 3D Printer	Super Fast & Large Build Volume	Premium Pick For Businesses
Elegoo Neptune 4 Max	Creality K1 Max	Raise3D Pro3 Plus
3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:
Primary Rating: 4.4	Primary Rating: 4.8	Primary Rating: 4.7
Build Volume: 420 x 420 x 480 mm	Build Volume: 300 x 300 x 300 mm	Build Volume: 300 x 300 x 605 mm
Max Nozzle Temperature: 300°C	Max Nozzle Temperature: 300°C	Max Nozzle Temperature: 300°C
$470	$929	$7599
Elegoo here	Creality here	MatterHackers here
Amazon here	Amazon here

Great Large-Volume 3D Printer

Elegoo Neptune 4 Max

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.4

Build Volume:

420 x 420 x 480 mm

Max Nozzle Temperature:

300°C

$470

Elegoo here

Amazon here

Super Fast & Large Build Volume

Creality K1 Max

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.8

Build Volume:

300 x 300 x 300 mm

Max Nozzle Temperature:

300°C

$929

Creality here

Amazon here

Premium Pick For Businesses

Raise3D Pro3 Plus

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.7

Build Volume:

300 x 300 x 605 mm

Max Nozzle Temperature:

300°C

$7599

MatterHackers here

So, whether you want to print large-scale figures, model cars or cosplay helmets as home projects, or large commercial prototypes, we’ve split this article into two sections covering both:

• The best under $1,000 (the largest 3D printers for home use)
• The best large-scale 3D printers for commercial use

Some inspired makers have even built enormous 850mm tall printers at home as DIY projects.

This article includes the best large bed 3D printers, as well as buying guide with what factors to consider when buying a larger printer, tips and tricks for printing based on the elements that change as you scale up print bed size, and some FAQs on large-scale printing.

How We Picked

In assessing which of the following 3D printers deserved to be on our ranking, we used the following criteria:

• Speed – Large prints can take days to complete, so speed is the name of the game. Especially with independently designed prints, it can be a huge benefit to complete a print faster, even if that means failing faster.
• Reliability – This is a catchall for how much tinkering and troubleshooting you can expect from your printer. Although expected for budget printers, it’s a major con if you’re playing printing issue whack-a-mole every time you start a new project.
• Size Relative to Price – A large print volume on a cheaper printer is more meaningful, but it also makes it accessible to hobbyists or smaller independent businesses.
• Customer Service – Especially with industrial printers, bad customer service can ruin an otherwise solid printer.
• Special Features – Some printers stand out because they have special features, such as enclosures, different formats (like CoreXY), or better firmware.

Best Large-Format 3D Printers – 2024 Reviews

1. Neptune 4 Max – Best Budget Option for Hobbyists

• Price: Check latest price at Elegoo here / Amazon here
• Build volume: 420 x 420 x 480 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, TPU, PETG, ABS, ASA, Nylon
• Max nozzle temp: 300°C 
• Max bed temp: 100°C

If you’re in the market for a budget large-volume printer, the Neptune 4 Max is the one to beat. It’s a comically large printer with a build volume of 420 x 420 x 480 mm.

The downside is that it won’t give you that polished, “it just works” experience. You can read more in our hands-on full review of the Neptune 4 Max, but you should expect some troubleshooting to get it printing optimally.

It does have great 121 point auto-leveling, which is crucial for a printer with such a large build plate. It isn’t as perfectly accurate as other printers on this list (like the Ultimaker S7), but you get what you pay for.

The Neptune 4 Max’s pre-installed Klipper firmware is another major point in its favor. If you’re willing to tweak settings, you can get incredibly high speeds with this printer while retaining excellent quality.

2. Anycubic Kobra Max – Largest Under $1000

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 450 x 400 x 400 mm 
• Minimum Layer Height: 50 microns
• Max Nozzle Temperature: 260°C
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU

The largest of Anycubic’s most recent batch of affordable large FDM printers, the Anycubic Kobra Max gives you a massive 450 x 400 x 400 mm – the largest build volume 3D printer under $600. That ultra-large build volume alone justifies a slot on our list, but there’s plenty more to like about the Kobra Max.

Despite the large capacity, the Kobra Max is made stable by the dual z-axis threaded lead screws, each with a dedicated stepper motor and two support rods to reduce wobble and keep things running smoothly.

With a 50-micron minimum layer height, the Kobra Max delivers solid precision and can theoretically crank sprint speeds up to a dizzying 180 mm/s.

It also has a tempered carborundum glass print bed, coated with Anycubic’s proprietary Ultrabase microporous coating.

Elsewhere, Anycubic has bundled in its in-house-developed LeviQ fully automatic bed leveling. We tested it ourselves on the Kobra and continue to be impressed with the accuracy and hands-off, set-and-forget ease of use it delivers. Anycubic is on to something special here, and it’s a delight to see LeviQ ported over the larger Kobra Max.

Other notable features include filament runout detection, the same responsive 4.3″ touchscreen display found on the smaller Kobra, adjustable belt tensioners, an E3D Volcano-inspired hot end, and reasonably quiet operational noise levels at 58 dB.

Overall, it’s definitely the largest 3D printer for home use, and a reliable FDM pick.

3. Creality K1 Max – Mid-Range Option For Quality and Cost Efficiency

• Price: Check latest price at Creality here / Amazon here
• Build volume: 300 x 300 x 300 mm
• Filament compatibility: ABS, PLA, PETG, PET, TPU, PA, ASA, PC, PLA-CF, PA-CF, PET-CF
• Max nozzle temp: 300°C 
• Max bed temp: 100°C

The Creality K1 Max is nothing like the engineering project that is the Ender 3. With this printer, Creality has taken a high-quality yet consumer-focused approach to the large volume printer.

It uses a CoreXY model, which allows for faster print head movements and speedy prints of up to 600 mm/s. The K1 Max also includes monitoring and quality assurance tools like AI LiDAR, a camera, and an enclosed design.

These factors allow for a wide range of filaments to be used, including finicky filaments like TPU and ABS. Plus, the inclusion of an air purifier makes them safer to print for the hobbyist.

Of course, the defining feature is a large build volume. The Creality K1 Max boasts a cube size of 300 x 300 x 300 mm. Overall, the K1 Max is the best option for a powerful high volume printer that stays in the consumer price range.

4. Modix Big-60 V3 Kit — For Heavy-Duty Use

• Price: $4,700 — Available at Matterhackers here / Available at Dynamism here
• Build volume: 600 x 600 x 660 mm

The Big-60 makes the previously mentioned printers look tiny, with its enormous 600 x 600 x 660 mm build volume able to print even the largest prototypes and parts in one large part. 

This is a huge advantage as you can print these large models without having to assemble them together – so surface finish isn’t affected by post-processing. 

It’s a large 3D printer kit, but experienced operators or 3D printing makers will have no trouble assembling the Model Big-60 V3, especially as it comes with such detailed instructions that take you through every step of the assembly process. 

The Big-60 V3 kit features premium parts all around, for example, a high-quality E3D hot end, and Duet3D controllers as standard. Despite being designed for industrial, heavy-duty use, the Big-60 is designed also to be modular enough that you can easily install any upgrades tailored to your 3D printing needs.

These could be custom, third-party upgrades, or any one of a number of available upgrades you can buy with the printer, such as the enclosure kit, a super high-temperature nozzle for industrial material printing like PEEK or ULTEM, or a secondary print head.

Overall, it’s a large area 3D printer but at a much lower medium-range price, and it’s certainly a large 3D printer for big 3D printer projects.

5. Raise3D Pro 3 Plus – Best Professional Option for Tall Prints

• Price: Matterhackers here / Amazon here
• Build volume: 299.72 x 299.72 x 604.52 mm (single extruder), or 254 x 299.72 x 604.52 (dual extruder)
• Filament compatibility: ABS, PLA, PETG, PET, TPU, PA, ABS, ASA, PC, PLA-CF, PA-CF, PET-CF, Nylons, etc
• Max nozzle temp: 300°C 
• Max bed temp: 120°C

The Raise3D Pro 3 Plus is a printer for professional use, such as rapid prototyping. Its shining feature are the dual extruders, allowing for multiple filament types to be used in a single print.

The build volume changes depending on whether you have one or two extruders. It’s quite large either way, with the vertical axis being especially impressive at 604.52 mm.

For the price, you will get a fully enclosed printer with a HEPA filter and air flow manager, an HD camera, auto bed leveling, and interchangeable hot end and extruder covers.

Although it has two extruders, the print speed is quite low. You trade speed for flexibility and the capacity for multi-filament prints.

6. Ultimaker S7 – Best Reliable and Feature Packed Industrial Printer

• Price: Matterhackers here
• Build volume: 330 x 240 x 300 mm
• Filament compatibility: 280+ tested materials
• Max nozzle temp: 180 – 280°C 
• Max bed temp: 100°C

The Ultimaker name comes with reliable, trustworthy industrial printers and the Ultimaker S7 is no exception. This is another professional-tier printer with a large build volume and dual extrusion.

It has an improved inductive probe for auto-leveling, promising better accuracy. The build plate also has a unique design using 25 magnets and 4 pins. The result is a streamlined leveling process and saved time.

Other benefits include a tested air filter, an onboard camera, and an auto-nozzle lifting system.

Overall, the Ultimaker will be the most reliable in an industrial context, even if it doesn’t have the largest build volume available. It still offers an impressive size of 330 x 240 x 300 mm.

Tips for Large-Format 3D Printing

Keep time in mind

It’s important to remember how long it takes to print these enormous parts. In rapid prototyping, it’s common to leave your printer running overnight and come back to it the next day, but if you’re printing a 50 x 50 cm prototype with a 0.4mm nozzle and small-ish layer heights, it could take several days to print.

A natural solution is to replace the standard 0.4mm nozzle that comes on most large-scale 3D printers with a larger (0.8-1.2mm) nozzle. Then, if printing larger layer heights (200 – 400 microns) you massively increase print speed.

However, this opens another can of worms. Less powerful hotends can struggle to melt such a large amount of filament quick enough to extrude in time, so you may want to upgrade your hotend to print without issue. We have a guide to some great hotends here.

Is it worth buying a large 3D printer, or using a 3D printing service instead?

This is another question you should ask yourself. If you’re only planning on printing a few prototypes for the year, you might find it advantageous to instead outsource your printing needs to an external service.

It’ll be more expensive than if you were to just pay for the materials to print yourself, but if you don’t have much use for the large-scale 3D printer, it’ll sit there collecting dust in your workshop for the rest of the year.

This is a simple value judgment — do you think you’ll use it enough?

The answer could even be to keep/buy a standard smaller 3D printer, use that for day-to-day prototyping, and if you have an enormous printer project, outsource those. We have a ranking of some of the best 3D printing services.

1 big 3D printer, or multiple smaller printers for many small parts

A common line of thought is that buying one large 3D printer gives you the capacity to print many smaller parts simultaneously.

This is true, but not necessarily efficient. Yes, you can print 10-20 small pieces at the same time on a large 3D printer, but it’ll take 20 times as long as you could have printed these parts on 20 desktop 3D printers. So, if you’re planning on printing many small parts, consider instead going with a 3D printer farm.

That said, the best 3D printer for large objects is certainly one with a big print volume – it’s a hassle gluing multiple parts together, and affects the final part’s strength.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this ranking, you may also be interested in:

• Our ranking of the best small 3D printers
• The best dual extruder 3D printers
• The best 3D pens
• How much does a 3D printer cost to buy and maintain?
• The best commercial 3D printers
• The best 3D printers for small businesses
• Best 3D printers for $5000
• 500x500x500mm 3D printers
• Nylon 3D printer buyer’s guide

• The best resin printers for printing the actual miniature models
• And FDM printers best for terrain printing

Super Budget Pick	Premium Resin Pick For Accurate Miniatures	FDM Printer For Terrain
Anycubic Photon M3	Anycubic Photon Mono M5s	AnkerMake M5C 3D Printer
3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:
Primary Rating: 4.5	Primary Rating: 4.8	Primary Rating: 4.6
Build Volume: 163 x 103 x 180 mm	Build Volume: 218 x 123 x 200 mm	Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
Printing Speed: 50mm/hr	Printing Speed: 105mm/h	Printing Speed: 500 mm/s
$209	$399	$399.00
Anycubic Store here	Anycubic here	AnkerMake Direct here
Amazon here	Amazon here	Amazon here

Super Budget Pick

Anycubic Photon M3

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.5

Build Volume:

163 x 103 x 180 mm

Printing Speed:

50mm/hr

$209

Anycubic Store here

Amazon here

Premium Resin Pick For Accurate Miniatures

Anycubic Photon Mono M5s

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.8

Build Volume:

218 x 123 x 200 mm

Printing Speed:

105mm/h

$399

Anycubic here

Amazon here

FDM Printer For Terrain

AnkerMake M5C 3D Printer

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.6

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Printing Speed:

500 mm/s

$399.00

AnkerMake Direct here

Amazon here

Beyond the specs, we also explain the factors that actually make a difference to miniature print quality.

Quick Overview

Best 3D Printers For Miniatures

1. Anycubic Photon M3 – Best Budget Resin Printer For Minis

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here
• How many minis can you fit? Around 15
• Build Volume: 163 x 103 x 180 mm
• XY Resolution: 40 microns
• Minimum Layer Height: 10 microns

The newly released Anycubic Photon M3 hits its stride in miniature making by bundling in better specs at the same price as its predecessors, the Photon Mono and Mono 4K.

These enhancements are most pronounced with a larger 163 x 103 x 180 mm build volume. This might not seem like much on paper, but means the Anycubic Photon M3 can produce much larger single models or batch print more copies of the same in one sitting than the Mono 4K, let alone the original Mono.

During my testing, I loaded up an example 28mm mini STL file and found you can fit around 15 minis on the build plate:

The extra z-height lends itself well to taller models, excellent if you’re working to produce large figurines for display purposes.

The Anycubic Photon M3 and Mono 4K both use a monochrome 4K LCD, but the Photon M3’s larger 7.6” screen handles the larger build volume. In numbers, this means a slight downgrade to a 40 micron XY resolution compared to the Mono 4 K’s 35 microns, but at these low numbers, the difference is indistinguishable to the naked eye, even for veteran miniature aficionados.

We still recommend the Photon M3 over the Mono 4K for the larger build volume – at this level, a 5-micron difference is not going to make a difference, even in the most precise of miniatures.

Against the standard Mono’s 2K LCD, there’s no competition: the Anycubic Photon M3 delivers far better fine details and features on even the most complex Warhammer and D&D figures. It does so fast as well, with a solid 50 mm/h print speed, which equates to roughly 30 minutes per 28 mm model.

2. Anycubic Photon Mono M5s – Best Mid-Size Pick

• Price: Check price at Anycubic here
• Build Volume: 218 x 123 x 200 mm
• Speed: 105mm/h

The Anycubic Photon Mono M5s has a stacked range of built-in sensors and checks to keep everything working, so you spend more time enjoying successful prints than cleaning up failures …or scratching your head wondering what went wrong. 

These features include print peel detection, hands-off bed leveling, a resin level sensor, and a self-check routine to pick up potential hardware issues.

Beyond that, the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s is the best mid-size resin printer right now in its price range. Nothing else competes with the thanks to the combination of a roomy 218 x 123 x 200 mm build volume, 12K resolution, and 19/24 micron XY resolution. 

Whereas the Photon M3 fits around 15 miniatures on the build plate, I estimate around 28 minis can fit on the M5s build plate – as per my screenshot below:

If you don’t need the extra space then the Mars 4 or Photon M3 should be fine, but with this extra space (and resolution) you can print larger batches of miniatures… and they’ll come out with glistening detail and sharp features. 

If you use high-speed resin, the M5s can even push print speeds up to 105 mm/s, vastly reducing print times while still maintaining print quality on your minis.

Though you’ll find a slightly large build volume on similar models like the Elegoo Saturn 2, the M5s beats the Saturn 2’s 29-micron XY resolution. Similarly, the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K trumps the M5s with its 22-micron resolution, but that printer is capped at 8K prints and has a substantially smaller 165 x 72 x 180 mm build volume, so you’ll get less detailed miniatures and small batches.

Overall in my opinion, the Mono M5s is the best middle-ground printer in the mid-size range, and is perfect for large batches of minis, at high quality, at high speeds.

Alternative: Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra

I also recently tested the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra, and it’s also really good and fast.

Here’s some minis I printed on it:

So, while I recommend the Anycubic highly, the Elegoo is also a great printer. If you look at the ornate Mew I printed at the bottom, it even printed the patterns on the surface really accurately — but my camera didn’t pick up all of these features so it’s hard to see.

However, it does have a smaller build volume, so if you do want to print larger numbers of miniatures, you are more restricted with the Mars 4 Ultra. You can only fit a maximum of around 8:

3. Anycubic Photon M3 Max – Best Large-Format Pick

• Price: Check price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 298 x 164 x 300 mm
• Speed: 60 mm/h

The Anycubic Photon M3 Max has a huge 293 x 163 x 300 mm build volume. At this size, you can print around 150 standard 28 mm miniatures in a single print session. Insane!

Despite the large build volume, the Photon M3 Max still pushes a 7K resolution that gives print intricate details and rich features. It may lag behind the 8K and even 12k printers out there, but the difference is largely imperceptible unless you pull out a magnifying glass.

Whereas the M3 can print around 15 minis maximum, and the M5s can print around 28, I estimate from my testing that the M3 Max can print around 45 minis per run, as shown below:

The Anycubic Photon M3 Max also ships with a smart resin refilling system, which will automatically pull resin through purpose tubing from a bottle to the vat as needed. You’ll never have to interrupt a print halfway through to pour in fresh resin, saving you both time and wasted resin.

With print speeds up to 60 mm/h, the M3 Max is not that fast… but it’s not horrendously slow either. And with the size of the printer, you could in theory print 150 minis in around an hour if they were all small enough. 

However, if you need faster speeds, I recommend the 105 mm/h speeds on the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s, and if you want better detail, go for the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K. But, neither has anywhere near the size of the spacious M3 Max.

If you’re looking to kick start a for-profit miniature printing setup, the Anycubic Photon M3 Max is a reliable workhorse that can pump out hundreds of miniatures on daily. At over $800, it’s a lot more expensive than some cheaper desktop options, like the Photon M3, or Mars 3 and 4 printers.

4. Ankermake M5C – Best Budget Printer For Terrain

• Price: Check price at AnkerMake here
• Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
• Speed: 500 mm/s

I’ve reviewed the Ankermake M5C, and it’s the most pleasant and easy-to-use consumer printer I’ve used recently. 

The route from a sliced model to a glistening, fresh-off-the-bed piece of terrain is as easy as it gets thanks to a pre-configured purging routine, simplified printing presets, automatic bed leveling, a direct drive extruder to reduce clogging, a one-click on-printer button to launch prints, and one of the most intuitive 3D printer apps I’ve used.

It’s also super fast. It prints up to 500 mm/s with only a minor loss of quality, which won’t matter that much for rough and ready terrain anyway! They come out looking great… and more importantly, fast, so you can get to testing them out on your tabletop sooner.

It’s capable of surprisingly good detail, too, honestly I was surprised!! While I’m recommending it for terrain… look at how good the skeleton creator mini I printed below is:

For an FDM print, that’s pretty amazing!

The Ankermake M5C has a pretty standard 220 x 220 x 250 mm build volume, which should be enough to print most terrain and backdrops like ruins, mid-sized dungeons, interiors, and even modest structures. 

But if you want to print anything larger, either get a larger build volume printer (I recommend the Neptune 4 Max below), or just print in parts and glue them together.

5. Elegoo Neptune 4 Max – Best Large-Format Printer For Terrain

• Price: Check price at Elegoo here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 420 x 420 x 480 mm
• Speed: 500 mm/s

The Elegoo Neptune 4 Max is a perfect fit if you’re a tabletop enthusiast that wants a reliable FDM printer to bring large-scale terrain to life. 

The huge 420 x 420 x 480 mm build volume is enough to print entire structures like towers and cathedrals or even large trees and rock formations. You can also print smaller pieces within the same job as medium-sized terrain prints…you have so much space!!

The nice part also is that you don’t need to print multiple pieces and then attach them – it’s fine to do this, but it’s extra time, and the glues together pieces can be weaker than if they were just printed in one part.

For example, this is a large statue model I printed in one large piece, which is larger than most terrain I’d ever need to print, and it came out really well!

The Neptune 4 Max is also quick thanks to Klipper-powered fast 500 mm/s print speeds. You’ll print more and in less time compared to the previous generation of FDM printers that hover around 80-100 mm/s, so you can print larger terrain much quicker.

Alongside, it has automatic bed leveling, a 300°C nozzle for more exotic filaments like Nylon, Wi-Fi connectivity for control and monitoring, and a dual-gear direct drive extruder to handle flexibles like TPU, but also cut down on clogging and other nasty extrusion issues.

During my review of the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max, my only real gripe was how the machine does require a bit of tinkering to truly shine, but this is more a question of polishing up imperfect prints than remedying all-out print failures. 

The Neptune 4 Max has what it takes to produce highly detailed terrain, you just need to have patience and be willing to put in the time to tweak and refine.

Important Specs & Factors To Consider When Buying

Layer Height

The smaller the layer height you choose for your models, the better the quality, and the less visible the layer lines will be. 

However, the lower the layer height, the more layers you’ll have in your model, which increases the time it takes to print, and also increases the chance of a failed print.

I advise that you don’t need to go all the way down to 0.01mm on your resin 3D printer with miniatures – 0.03-0.04mm is a good range for great quality.

The Truth About 4K, 8K, or 12K+ Screens

4K is fine honestly, and even 2K isn’t super noticeable compared with an 8K print except on details like hair and beards, or hands and fingers on your models. If you have the money, go for an 8K printer – but it isn’t a necessity.

Corners will look a bit sharper, and certain facial features and muscle definitions will come out better generally, but you can still create very good models on 4K resin printers.

However, do not look solely at the specs when determining if a printer is high quality. 

A 2K screen with a printer made from high-quality build plate bolts and resin vat locks (that can handle low layer heights, retain accuracy, and aren’t prone to threading) will produce better miniature models than a shoddily built 4K printer.

I recommend buying from a high-quality brand like Anycubic, Elegoo or Phrozen.

How Speed and Size Works with a Resin Printer

Resin printers work differently from FDM printers. Instead of printing one part at a time as an FDM printer’s extruder traces the layer, LCD printers flash an entire layer at once, so whether you load up 10 STL files or just 1, they’ll print in the same amount of time.

So, the only factor that determines how long a resin print job will take is the height of the tallest model. 

This makes the build size of a resin printer important, as the more models you can pack into the area, the more models you can print in the same amount of time. Large 3D printers can print potentially 20+ miniatures at once – though most hobbyist printers can print around 3-4 reasonably sized miniature models.

Why 3D Print Your Own Miniatures?

With a 3D printer, you can print anything you want – you’re. notlimited by what’s in the catalogs! And, you can print your own minis for under a dollar each in resin cost, rather than sometimes $10+ per model!

In fact, I’ve written a deeper dive into D&D miniature and Warhammer prices and built my own calculator you can use to estimate miniature printing costs and how many minis until you earn back the cost of a 3D printer.

Some designers publish their miniature files online for free (I’ve listed the best places later on), but even premium models are extremely cheap – often just a few dollars.

Things to Remember When 3D Printing Resin Miniatures

• Resin is toxic and irritant – never touch it directly, and if you do, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water. Wear a mask to avoid the fumes, generally try to avoid the room when printing, and if possible put the printer near ventilation.

• There is post-processing involved after printing – you’ll need to scrape the resin prints off the build plate, remove the supports (wear gloves), wash the resin off of the prints with isopropyl alcohol, dry them, and cure them in UV light. Then, optionally you can fix any imperfections, prime and paint them for your custom look. We recommend buying your brand’s wash and cure station to save you time and hassle.

• You will need to replace parts – the two main culprits are FEP films, and screens, which will need to be replaced over time. This puts you out of action for a while, and costs money. We’ve also calculated whether 3D printing miniatures is cheaper (I calculated the exact cost for FDM and resin printing miniatures).

Why Not To Use FDM For 3D Printing Miniatures (But You Should For Terrain)

While FDM 3D printers typically have larger print areas, and the filament is cheaper than resin and non-toxic, you can’t get anywhere near the same level of detail. And minuscule details are the key to amazing-looking miniatures.

To put it into perspective, if you saw an FDM-printed miniature in a shop, you probably wouldn’t buy it.

But, you can print the larger, rougher terrain parts with an FDM printer, such as backgrounds, and accessories like towers, bridges, and other cool add-ons.

Best Practices for FDM 3D Printing Miniatures

• Nozzle size: using a small nozzle makes for better precision on printers, and though they print slower, this isn’t a big problem when printing small models that do not take long anyway.
• Slow printing speed settings: if you have the fastest 3D printer around, such as a delta 3D printer, you should slow it down when printing small, precise models. You may want to reduce speed to as low as 20-30mm/s.
• Infill percentage: you may want to change this based on how strong you want your miniatures to be. If you want to save on material costs and don’t mind giving up some part strength, you can reduce infill to 10%, though some hobbyists who want solid models may go for a higher infill percentage.
• Retraction settings: optimize retraction settings to prevent oozing and stringing of filament, which can occur especially often with PLA.
• Post-processing: not directly related to your printer, but you can decide whether to paint your model, sand or polish it to enhance its finish.

However, we still recommend resin over FDM for miniature printing. You can read a more in-depth comparison in our article comparing FDM and resin 3D printing for miniatures.

Sites To Download Minis Files

Here are some sites that host free and paid files:

• MyMiniFactory
• Cults3D
• Thingiverse (all free)
• Gambody (specialized in video game/comic book models)
• Pinshape

And here are some articles I’ve written that round-up the coolest files across other websites:

• Dungeons and Dragons 3D print files
• Warhammer 40K 3D prints
• 3D printed figurine files
• 3D printed anime figure files
• 3D printed dice towers
• 3D printed dragon files

Is it legal to 3D print Warhammer models?

It is legal to 3D print Warhammer figures as long as you do not try to sell them or use them for any other kind of commercial use. Patent laws prevent anyone from selling any object based on someone else’s intellectual property. If you design the model yourself however, if it isn’t identical or a total imitation of another’s copyrighted work, then you aren’t infringing on their copyright or patents.

However, keep abreast to new changes in laws that affect where creators and IP holders stand legally. For example, the 2021 Appropriations Act changed the way holders of IP and perceived infringers interact. This article is also useful for a general understanding of where you stand with 3D printing and intellectual property.

We would like to conclude this article by reminding readers to be careful, as intellectual property (IP) laws prevents the creation, download or 3D printing of trademarked characters. You can get into trouble if you print a trademarked character such as a Pokémon, with some large companies becoming increasingly studious in pursuing people breaking these laws.

Updates To This Review

We consistently update our rankings with our latest recommendations based on our hands-on 3D printer reviews.

Jan 2024 updates:

• We removed the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. The Photon M3 and Mars3 have come down in price so far that it no longer makes sense to get the Mars 2 Pro. And overall, we still recommend the Photon M3 over the Mars 3.

Feb 2024 updates:

• We added the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max as our new recommendation for large terrain printing.
• We also added the Photon Mono M5s for premium desktop resin printing.

Top Budget Pick	Top Fast Printer Overall	Fastest Large 3D Printer
Anycubic Kobra 2	Creality K1	Elegoo Neptune 4 Max
3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:
Primary Rating: 4.4	Primary Rating: 4.7	Primary Rating: 4.6
$279	$599	$470
Max Print Speed: 300mm/s	Max Print Speed: 600mm/s	Max Print Speed: 500mm/s
Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm	Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm	Build Volume: 420 x 420 x 480 mm
Anycubic here	Creality here	Elegoo here
Amazon here		Amazon here

Top Budget Pick

Anycubic Kobra 2

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.4

$279

Max Print Speed:

300mm/s

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Anycubic here

Amazon here

Top Fast Printer Overall

Creality K1

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.7

$599

Max Print Speed:

600mm/s

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Creality here

Fastest Large 3D Printer

Elegoo Neptune 4 Max

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.6

$470

Max Print Speed:

500mm/s

Build Volume:

420 x 420 x 480 mm

Elegoo here

Amazon here

The Best Fast 3D Printers in 2024 – Reviews

1. Creality K1

• Price — Check latest price at Creality here / Amazon here
• Max speed: 600mm/s
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
• Filament compatibility: ABS, PLA, PETG, PET, TPU, PA, ABS, ASA, PC, PLA-CF, PA-CF, PET-CF
• Max nozzle temp: 300°C
• Max bed temp: 100°C
• Connectivity: USB, WiFi

The Creality K1 is a fully enclosed CoreXY printer. Right off the bat, you can tell where it’s going to excel: speed and stability.

While the CoreXY design helps it achieve speeds of up to 600 mm/s, you’ll have less factors to worry about while diagnosing problems thanks to the enclosure. It has an onboard camera for easy print monitoring, too.

The Creality K1 has a standard, relatively small build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm – like the Ender 3 has. If you want something bigger, you could opt for the K1 Max instead, with 300 x 300 x 400 mm – the same as the CR-10s.

As a slightly more expensive option for fast consumer printers (it’s a bit more than the Neptune 4, AnkerMake M5C, Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 with similar speeds), The Creality K1 works best if you want fast speeds but also love the K1’s other capabilities. Although it’s by no means a truly high-end printer, it is a slightly more expensive option.

So, if you have no plans of using finicky filaments like ABS and PETG and don’t know if you’ll really make use of the print monitoring tools, the Creality K1 isn’t worth it. But for fast printing without much hassle, it’s great.

2. Neptune 4 Max

• Price: Check latest price at Elegoo here / Amazon here
• Max speed: 500mm/s
• Build volume: 420 x 420 x 480 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, TPU, PETG, ABS, ASA, Nylon Filaments
• Max nozzle temp: 300°C
• Max bed temp: 85°C
• Connectivity: USB, WiFi, WLAN

The Neptune 4 Max is the printer to beat for a large build volume at a cheap price. But what people should really be paying attention to is the potential for high speed printing. This was the main thing I wanted to understand in my hands-on review of the Neptune 4 Max: in a 3D printer so large, can you really still get accurate prints at high speeds?

With Klipper coming pre-installed on the printer and the extra big fan equipment, high speeds are very much possible. They’ll shave off hours from larger prints.

The Neptune 4 Max’s build volume of 420 x 420 x 480 mm opens the doorway to multi-day prints. So, small speed improvements make for big time saves across that kind of timeline…

Unfortunately, the Neptune 4 Max’s best feature is also its main downside. To get that great build volume on a cheap printer, you should expect to spend time troubleshooting and fixing issues as they arise.

That’s doubly true when you’re pushing print speed to its limit. Although it’s not impossible for a beginner, it’s definitely a better choice for someone familiar with 3D printing and ready to dive into Klipper, input shaping, etc.

3. Bambu P1P

• Price: Check latest price at Bambu Lab here
• Max speed: 500mm/s
• Build volume: 256 x 256 x 256 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, PETG, TPU, PVA, PET, and with enclosure PA, PC, ABS, ASA
• Max nozzle temp: 300°C
• Max bed temp: 100°C
• Connectivity: USB, WiFi

The Bambu P1P is like a stripped down version of the popular Carbon X1. It doesn’t have the camera or the enclosure (unless you buy them as add-ons), but it does have a CoreXY design that speeds things up. It can print at a maximum of 500 mm/s.

A high max nozzle temperature and the potential for an enclosure makes the Bambu P1P a similarly reliable and consistent option to the Creality K1. It comes with the Bambu Lab slicer, auto leveling, and even AMS compatibility for multi-color printing, but no touchscreen.

Although many exclusive slicers fail to be as useful as the free options, Bambu Lab’s slicer actually proves to be very useful by providing a huge number of presets.

A major problem with high speed printing is the amount of tinkering necessary to achieve them. The Bambu P1P can get you there, without you needing to mess with firmware configs, cheap and unreliable printers, or complicated upgrades.

4. Anycubic Kobra 2

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Max speed: 300mm/s
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, PLA+, TPU
• Max nozzle temp: 260°C 
• Max bed temp: 110°C
• Connectivity: MicroSD

The Anycubic Kobra 2 is a true budget machine, but it still offers significantly faster print speeds than other printers in its price range. Its maximum is 300 mm/s.

It doesn’t reach those speeds using a CoreXY design or offering Klipper. The Kobra 2 just has a quality extrusion and cooling system, so you can safely reach higher speeds. Notably, it uses a direct drive extruder and a rapid cooling system.

Although it doesn’t cost much compared to other printers on this list, it does still have WiFi, auto-leveling, and a touchscreen. The main negative of the Kobra 2 is that you will be stuck with subpar speeds– at least, in the realm of high speed printing. There’s upgrade potential so you could change that, but it isn’t impressive by default.

If you’re willing to put in some extra effort to reach higher speeds and you’re on a strict budget, the Anycubic Kobra 2 is pretty much perfect. But if you can afford something better, it will serve you well.

How Speed Works in 3D Printers

Printer Format

Printer format is the factor in print speed that’s the hardest to change— you’re stuck with whatever type of printer you’ve purchased.

The Cartesian FDM printer type is the one people usually think of when they imagine a 3D printer. However, there are other variations that can really up the speed of your prints.

A good example is CoreXY. They’re becoming increasingly mainstream because they have such few downsides, but can reach higher speeds.

As the name implies, the X and Y motors on a CoreXY printer are fixed.  These printers have a relatively low part count and a light, hyper mobile print head. Bambu’s printers, as well as the Creality K1 and Qidi Tech X-Plus run these CoreXY systems. You can read more about these in our guide to the top coreXY printers.

They are usually contrasted by the typical bed slinger design, which moves the bed back and forth during the printing process.

Another less popular type of FDM printer is the Delta printer. They’re easy to differentiate because of their triangular shape, which is also the reason they can reach higher speeds. You can read more about these in our guide to the top delta printers.

Although Delta and CoreXY printers are designed to be faster, that doesn’t mean you need one to hit high speeds. There are a ton of other factors that impact printer speed, too.

In this article alone, I mention multiple 3D printers that aren’t Delta or CoreXY – like the Kobra 2, and the Neptune 4 Max. 

Printer Equipment

If you want speed and you want it ASAP, nozzle size might be the way to go. Most 3D printers have a default nozzle size of 0.4 mm, but you can find 0.6 mm, 0.8 mm, or even larger nozzle sizes for purchase.

Swapping out your nozzle for something bigger and pairing it with a corresponding larger layer height can immediately double your print speeds. The caveat is that you sacrifice some print quality.

Although upping nozzle size only works for non-precise, non-decorative pieces, there are other printer features that assist with speed in every situation. They just don’t do it as directly.

Quality heating components are pretty much a necessity for high print speeds because the filament won’t heat up quickly enough otherwise. Poor heating can also cause issues with filament viscosity.

Similarly, cooling components need to be just as quality to match the breakneck speeds or you risk print errors.

Firmware

Many older (and some modern) 3D printers use Marlin by default as their firmware. It’s not the best for making config changes, and it has certain limitations when it comes to speed.

Klipper is the firmware of choice for anyone who wants those two benefits. You can swap Marlin out for Klipper, but some printers even come with it pre-installed.

The easier config changes make the fine tuning process faster, which is the first step to getting better print speeds. Another key feature is input shaping— in essence, it’s a way to minimize vibrations and the corresponding ringing that happens at super high speed 3D printing.

One of the biggest changes between Klipper and Marlin is the fact that Klipper can run g-code faster. Even with no config changes, Klipper will let your hardware shine rather than slowing your printer down because of the g-code bottleneck.

It’s important to understand that Klipper on its own won’t automatically make your printer fast. You need to use the tools Klipper gives you to make the most out of your printer.

Slicer Software

The free way to instantly up your print speed is to simply change settings in your slicer software. You can do this no matter what slicer you use, and no matter what printer you own.

Usually, changing infill and wall thickness settings to use less filament gets you quick results with little chance of failure.

If you’re ready to increase speeds beyond that, you’ll need to consider settings like acceleration, jerk, temperature, and fan settings.

You’ll probably want to tweak things slowly with an easy benchmarking print, like a Benchy. Make sure you’re compensating for temperature and vibrations as you go.

So, Do You Really Need a Super Fast 3D Printer?

Although speed is an increasingly popular marketing gimmick for 3D printers, sometimes it’s just that— a gimmick. Not everyone needs a fast 3D printer or will put that speed to use.

If you enjoy the engineering process of getting your printer to work at insane speeds, then that’s reason enough to pursue it from a hobby perspective. But if you’re doing it for the sake of practicality, you should rethink your pursuit of speed.

You often will need to make the choice between quality and getting your printer that much faster. Quick printing will always make it harder to assure quality, and unless you really don’t care how your prints come out, it might not be worth the time and monetary investment.

For FDM 3D printers, some materials become volatile and print with imperfections if you don’t slow right down, like PEEK, PC, and others. Printing at 150mm/s+ would just ruin your prints, so the speed is useless here.

Instead of purchasing products or printers that are designed to be faster, try doing some basic changes in your software. It will make printing a little more efficient, without the effort, money, and inconsistency that comes with the fast printing package.

Related articles:

• Best large resin 3D printers (bigger = faster!)
• Best FDM 3D printers
• How long does 3D printing take?
• Best 3D Print Speed Settings for Every Filament
• Check the best print speed settings for Ender 3

Best for absolute beginners and kids	Great reliable printer	Budget pick
Toybox: 3D Printer for Kids	Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ 3D printer (pre assembled)	Anycubic Kobra 2
3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:
Primary Rating: 4.4	Primary Rating: 4.8	Primary Rating: 4.7
$299-349	$899	$249
Build Volume: 70 x 80 x 90 mm	Build Volume: 250 x 210 x 210 mm	Build Volume: 250 x 220 x 220 mm
Assembly time: Comes fully assembled	Assembly time: 6-8 hours	Assembly time: 10 minutes
Automatic leveling: Yes	Automatic leveling: Yes	Automatic leveling: Yes
Toybox Store here	Prusa here	Anycubic here
	Amazon here	Amazon here

Best for absolute beginners and kids

Toybox: 3D Printer for Kids

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.4

$299-349

Build Volume:

70 x 80 x 90 mm

Assembly time:

Comes fully assembled

Automatic leveling:

Yes

Toybox Store here

Great reliable printer

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ 3D printer (pre assembled)

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.8

$899

Build Volume:

250 x 210 x 210 mm

Assembly time:

6-8 hours

Automatic leveling:

Yes

Prusa here

Amazon here

Budget pick

Anycubic Kobra 2

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.7

$249

Build Volume:

250 x 220 x 220 mm

Assembly time:

10 minutes

Automatic leveling:

Yes

Anycubic here

Amazon here

The best 3D printer for beginners turns on, prints, and is never any hassle.

From the outside looking in, 3D printing can be intimidating. You just want something you press print on and it works perfectly every time.

If you have the budget and don’t mind the drop in speed compared to newer coreXY printers, a Prusa MK3S+ is a cheaper way to get a super reliable, beginner-friendly printer. Buy it now if you have the budget, but there’s always the option to buy one second-hand if the money is tight.

For the sub-$300 range, I think the Kobra 2 is your best bet. It’s fast, easy to build and use, and should require less tinkering than an Ender 3. If you have $400, the AnkerMake M5C is faster and better built – and I highly recommend it.

If you want a large-format 3D printer, I recommend the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max. It does require some tinkering and tweaking, but for the low price you get a fast and large printer.

What To Look For As A Beginner

Obviously, the basics are you want a 3D printer that is safe, reliable, and well-priced. But here are some more specific things to look out for:

• Auto-Leveling: most printers now come with auto-leveling, but I suggest avoiding the original Ender 3 as it does not have this. You can buy bed probe kits, but this still requires some technical skill to implement.
• WiFi: it’s not essential, but it’s a nice quality-of-life improvement to have, and saves you from connecting via wires to your laptop, or transferring files via SD cards.
• Direct Drive Extruder: these are better than Bowden extruders for flexible filaments as flexibles are more delicate, creating issues with the longer filament path. Direct drive extruders also have more precise retraction and less prone to clogging – which you don’t want as a newbie.
• All-Metal Hotend: PTFE hotends can’t print as high temperatures, limiting the materials you can print. Also, the PTFE material will gradually deteriorate over time, and the tube can slip and cause clogs.
• Dual Z-Axis: these are more sturdy and stable, and better support the gantry system the 3D printer prints with. Single Z-axis can sag slightly, and love stability and precision.
• High-Quality Springs: weaker springs on cheaper printers worsen bed leveling stability and need to be re-leveled constantly, which is a hassle. Better quality springs also dampen vibrations better, improving print quality. Silicone spacers are also great.

Based on these points, these are the best 3D printers for beginners we recommend:

The Best 3D Printers for Beginners

1. Best Under $500 – Ankermake M5C

• Price: Check price at AnkerMake here
• Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250mm
• Assembly Time: 15 minutes
• Automatic leveling: Yes

The Ankermake M5C is a fantastic first printer if you’re a beginner. I built it in under 10 minutes, which you can see in my hands-on review.

Once assembled, Ankermake’s seamless ecosystem guides you through to your successful first print. A QR code mounted on the printer even links you to tutorials for feeding in filament, automatic bed leveling, changing the voltage, to firing off that first print.

Other beginner-friendly features include notches on the heated bed that guide the position of the build surface, so you’re always sure it’s in the right spot. The printer has a huge one-click button to start and pause prints as needed. And, the printer isn’t a web of wires and components thanks to its sleek and sturdy flushed metal look. Unlike many other budget printers, it would fit nicely into any home decor.

The printer is operated and prints monitored through one of the best mobile apps today. You can choose from three presets that offer a range of speeds and quality, including a fast mode that pushes up to 500 mm/s for ultra-short print times.

You also get access to Ankermake’s model library, which is full of cool starter projects, including decorative pieces and functional models like plant pots, toys, pencil holders, and more. They’ve been tested and pre-configured to work flawlessly on the Ankermake M5C, so you’re unlikely to run into failures or need to do any troubleshooting.

However, the Ankermake M5C isn’t perfect. The spool holder and specifically the mount that holds the filament tubing that runs down to the print head is a little flimsy, and the lack of a screen on the printer may bother you if you prefer this.

Fastest Low-Cost 3D Printer

AnkerMake M5C 3D Printer

4.6

$399.00

We also have an exclusive discount code: 3DSM5C.

Use this code and get $80 off!

Pros:

• Dizzyingly fast print speeds – it printed a Benchy accurately at 500mm/s
• Superb print quality, especially on my articulated dragon print
• Impressive all-round build quality
• Sophisticated, responsive, and useful mobile app
• Tinker-free bed leveling and printing
• Direct drive extruder is always nice to have

Cons:

• Missing SD Card slot
• Very loud operating noise levels. With noise-canceling headphones, I could still hear it from 20 feet away.
• No on-printer screen
• Strangely, it didn’t ship with any filament – not even a test sample
• Spool holder feels a bit flimsy to me

AnkerMake Direct here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

2. Best Under $300 – Anycubic Kobra 2

• Price: Check price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 250 x 220 x 220 mm
• Assembly Time: 10 minutes
• Automatic leveling: Yes

Now priced near $200, the Anycubic Kobra 2 is an affordable printer that still comes with automatic bed leveling, a sharp direct drive extruder, an easy modular assembly process, and print speeds of up to 300 mm/s. 

The LeviQ 2.0 automatic bed leveling system includes automatic smart z-offset adjustments (the distance between the nozzle and plate), removing the need to make any manual tweaks whatsoever after the leveling regime is completed.

It’s more sturdily built than the original Kobra, (which we’ve also tested), and the Ender 3, with dual z-axis rods and double metal spindles and bearings that holds it firm on your desktop. It’ll require some tinkering and ongoing maintenance – but less than the Ender 3 or original Anycubic Kobra. 

The PEI-coated, flexible bed is a pleasure to use and pop prints off of. I’m also a big fan of the responsive on-printer control screen – it has a lot of options, but isn’t overwhelming.

It’s not as polished a 3D printing experience as the Ankermake M5C, however. Though it can achieve excellent printer quality, it takes more tinkering to get there, so I recommend the Kobra 2 if you’re on a budget and can’t afford the M5C instead.

Best FDM Kit Under $300

Anycubic Kobra 2

Improved, upgraded version of the original Kobra, with much faster print speeds, good auto leveling, and a reliable direct drive extruder.

Anycubic here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

3. Best For Complete Beginners & Kids – Toybox 3D

• Price: Starter Bundle $299 / Deluxe Bundle $349 — Available on Toybox’s site here
• Print volume: 70 x 80 x 90 mm
• Assembly Time: Comes fully assembled
• Automatic leveling: Yes

The Toybox 3D printer impressed me a lot when I tested it, especially with how incredibly it was to use. Brand-new beginners, and even kids under 13 years old, would have absolutely zero issues setting it up and getting printed.

It’s also great if you’re an adult beginner who wants to print your first models easily, and for younger kids to learn basic engineering skills and have fun printing their toys!

In fact, when you buy a Toybox 3D printer, you also get access to their toy archive featuring thousands of fun prints. These include mini F1 cars, and officially licensed Batman and Wonderwoman models, tanks, dragons, gift boxes, and many more.

They’re all free, and you can even design your own models using their Toybox iOS and Android app. Here’s a small seal 3D print I found in their archive and printed:

When I was printing different models, I wanted to understand how easy it would be for beginners to change out the different colors of filament. This can be tricky on 3D printers and put beginners off, and Toybox send lots of colors with the printer – so I wanted to be sure it was easy to do.

A big advantage was how easy this was to change the filament colors. These filaments, which Toybox calls “3D printer food”, take less than a minute to switch out. These materials are all low-temperature PLA, so they’re safer and easier to print (they don’t warp like more challenging filaments such as ABS).

I’ve previously emailed back and forth with Ben, Toybox’s co-founder and CEO, about how important it is for 3D printers to become more accessible so that more adult newcomers are encouraged to adopt 3D printing. To us at 3DSourced, the Toybox makes 3D printing more accessible than ever, and it’s an ideal 3D printer for beginners.

However, the build volume is small at 70 x 80 x 90 mm, and you can’t print more professional materials. But, if you’re getting started and want a hassle-free, fun, and friendly introduction with an entry-level 3D printer for newcomers, the Toybox is perfect for you.

They also make great 3D printers for kids.

Best 3D Printer for Kids

Toybox: 3D Printer for Kids

4.8

$299-349

Super easy to set up, comes with different filament colors to get started, and a huge range of 3D printable files (including licensed Batman models!) that your kids will LOVE.

Pros:

• Very simple smartphone interface suitable for all ages.
• Fully enclosed design keeps hot parts away from fingers.
• Easy to switch between colors of PLA filament

Cons:

• Can only print PLA, not higher-temp materials like ABS.

Toybox Store here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

4. Most Reliable Pick – Prusa i3 MK3S+ Pre-Assembled

• Price: Check price at Prusa here / Amazon here
• Build volume: 250 x 210 x 210 mm
• Assembly Time: 6-8 hours
• Automatic leveling: Yes

Buying tips for beginners:

• Buy the preassembled version for $200 extra and save 8 hours of building
• Consider the Multi Material Upgrade 2.0 when you’re comfortable with the printer

The preassembled Prusa combines beginner-friendly plug-and-play straight out the box with Prusa’s trademark reliability and durability for a fantastic beginner 3D printing experience.

The new MK3S+ features Prusa’s SuperPINDA probe for automatic mesh bed leveling, like the Prusa Mini, for effective first-layer calibration. There’s myriad other hassle-saving extras included, like the filament sensor, power loss recovery (it’ll save where you are if you have a power cut or other fault), and a number of effective safety features.

If you’re looking for a dual extruder printer, the Prusa doesn’t have that. However, you can buy the Multi Material Upgrade 2.0 for $299, which when fitted turns your Prusa 3D printer into a multi-color 3D printer able to print up to 5 colors simultaneously.

Overall, by buying the preassembled version, you combine Prusa’s reputation for reliability with this easy-access 3D printer, and it’s a great choice for high-quality printing that rarely goes wrong. 

Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ 3D printer (pre assembled)

Prusa here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

5. Best Large Printer – Elegoo Neptune 4 Max

• Price: Check price at Elegoo here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 420 x 420 x 480 mm
• Assembly Time: 60 minutes
• Automatic leveling: Yes

The Elegoo Neptune 4 Max has a huge 420 x 420 x 480 mm build volume. There’s space here to produce large vases, towering figurines, large terrain for tabletop gaming, and plenty more – something I enjoyed during my hands-on review.

While the Neptune 4 Max’s size is its main attribute, it also has plenty other features that beginners will benefit from. It has a 121-point automatic bed leveling, which, put simply, means a beautifully leveled bed every time for perfect first layers. While I recommend sticking with PLA if you’re new, the nozzle does reach 300°C, so you can print ABS, Nylon, PC, and other higher-temp filaments.

The best bit for me is the super-fast print speeds up to 500mm/s. The dual-gear direct drive extruder helps with smooth filament extrusion, even hours deep into a massive project. 

Direct drive extruders are better than bowden extruders for beginners in my opinion, as they reduce instances of clogging and print failures and blemishes for an overall easier printing experience. Better yet, the nozzle features automatic PID parameter calibration – basically, it adapts the filament to the temperature for the best results without needing any of your input. 

The Wi-Fi connectivity is nice for remote control and monitoring, the PEI build platform pops prints off easily, and it’s fairly quiet – all great positives for beginners.

However, for all its pros, the Neptune 4 Max is harder to get working perfectly than printers like the Ankermake M5C and its seamless printing experience. 
The Neptune 4 Max requires more tinkering and troubleshooting to truly make the most of its excellent features, so if you’re tempted, be prepared to learn as you go.

Great Large-Volume 3D Printer

Elegoo Neptune 4 Max

4.4

With a large 420x420x480mm build volume, integrated auto bed leveling, and fast print speeds enabled by Klipper, the Neptune 4 Max is an affordable option for hobbyists wanting to print big.

However, some tinkering is likely needed to get the best results.

Pros:

• High potential print speeds (pre-installed Klipper + good processor)
• Huge 420 x 420 x 480 mm build volume
• 121-point mesh auto-leveling
• Direct drive print head
• Huge toggleable fan

Cons:

• Likely to need tinkering to work properly
• Difficult to swap proprietary nozzle
• Few upgrades from the cheaper Neptune Max 3

Elegoo here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

How Much Should You Expect To Pay?

Expect to pay around $300-$400 for a decent entry-level 3D printer. While getting one for $150 is possible, you typically pay in time for any required tweaks and replacement parts that break.

For the $300-$400 price range you can get a printer with a direct drive extruder, higher-quality hotend, auto-leveling, faster print speeds, and one that is more reliable with parts not needing to be replaced as often.

Is the Ender 3 Good For Beginners?

Yes and no. The Ender 3 is a good printer because it’s cheap, but getting the very best out of it and obtaining the best quality prints involves upgrading and tweaking the machine. So, it’s good for a low budget, but not ideal for less technical beginners who won’t know how to fix the issues you may run into.

That said, when I recently tested the Ender 3 S1 it was a major improvement, bundling in many quality-of-life upgrades, like automatic bed leveling, a direct drive extruder system, and easy assembly, that make it extremely user-friendly.

The newest Ender 3 V3 SE has been getting good reviews online, but I haven’t tried it yet, so I can’t recommend it. If I do get to test it, I’ll update this review with the full information!

But as of now, I recommend the printers like the Kobra range, Prusas, over the Ender 3 for complete beginners.

Beginner-Friendly 3D Printing Projects

With your factory-fresh printer up and running, here are a few beginner-friendly 3D printing projects to spark your imagination.

• Video game Characters – Pokemon, Final Fantasy
• Toys – Fidget spinners, action figures, toy boxes, Lego-like blocks
• Board game and chess pieces
• RC Vehicles
• Piggy Banks
• Vases
• House decor

Here are a few excellent sites for finding the STL model files required for 3D printing.

• Thingiverse (free files)
• Cults3D (free and premium aid-for files)
• MyMiniFactory (free and premium paid-for files)

What’s Changed?

We consistently update our recommendations based on our latest hands-on 3D printer reviews.

Jan 2024:

• Removed the Flashforge Creator Pro 2. We now feel other printers are a better combination of ease of use and lower price.
• Removed the Voxelab Aquila. It is very cheap, but for a complete beginner I now think it’s best to spend $50 extra for something more robust.

Feb 2024:

• Added the AnkerMake, Kobra 2, and Neptune 4 Max. We now feel these are the top beginner-friendly options based on our hands-on testing.

Related posts:

• Easy 3D printer projects for beginners
• Best free 3D modeling software for beginners
• CAD software for beginners
• Should you buy a 3D printer? Pros and cons compared

We’re here to help. We continuously update this best 3D printer guide with the latest 3D printer reviews, and we’ve tested over a dozen 3D printers on this site to create this buyer’s guide.

Best Budget Resin	Best Budget FDM	Best Fast 3D Printer
Anycubic Photon M3 Resin 3D Printer	Anycubic Kobra 2	Creality K1
Primary Rating: 4.5	Primary Rating: 4.7	Primary Rating: 4.6
$209	$249	$499
Build Volume: 163.9 x 102.4 x 180 mm	Build Volume: 250 x 220 x 220 mm	Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
Printing Speed: 50 mm/h	Printing Speed: 300mm/s	Printing Speed: 600mm/s
Anycubic Store here	Anycubic here	Creality here
Amazon here	Amazon here

Best Budget Resin

Anycubic Photon M3 Resin 3D Printer

Primary Rating:

4.5

$209

Build Volume:

163.9 x 102.4 x 180 mm

Printing Speed:

50 mm/h

Anycubic Store here

Amazon here

Best Budget FDM

Anycubic Kobra 2

Primary Rating:

4.7

$249

Build Volume:

250 x 220 x 220 mm

Printing Speed:

300mm/s

Anycubic here

Amazon here

Best Fast 3D Printer

Creality K1

Primary Rating:

4.6

$499

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Printing Speed:

600mm/s

Creality here

We’ve split our recommended picks into different categories to help you find the best 3D printer based on your needs. Then, below are our full product reviews of each printer with the full details, and where to get the best price.

Why Trust Us?

Over the last 5 years, the 3DSourced team has tested more than 25 different 3D printers to recommend our favorites. We include images of our real reviews and real thoughts on which to buy or not buy, and we pride ourselves on being unbiased.

Formed of 3D printing fans and experts, our team has a combined 30+ years of hands-on 3D printing experience. Some 3D printers we’ve owned and used extensively that feature on this list include multiple Creality Ender 3 models (S1, V2 Neo, etc), Elegoo Mars models (2 Pro, 4 Ultra), the Toybox printer, Anycubic Kobra, Sovol SV04, Snapmaker 2.0, and many more.

You can read the full product reviews below for our in-depth reviews and recommendations.

Here’s the full list:

1. Best FDM Under $300 – Anycubic Kobra 2

• Price: Check price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 250 x 220 x 220 mm
• Speed: 300mm/s

The Anycubic Kobra 2 is a successor to the Anycubic Kobra, which launched in 2022 and wowed us with its advanced features like automatic bed leveling and a direct drive extruder. 

The Kobra 2 makes improvements where it matters, upping print speeds to 300 mm/s, an enhanced LeviQ 2.0 automatic bed leveling to auto-calibrate the 220 x 220 x 250 mm build volume, an improved extrusion system and cooling, and various improvements to the overall design such a dual z-axis rods for better stability and performance at higher speeds.

These are features that pack in a huge amount of value for under $300. Specs and hardware are one thing, but the Kobra 2 follows through with excellent print quality, especially if you’re willing to tinker and refine. 

It’s far more user-friendly and hands-off, and the path from assembly to printing a quality part is much easier than the Ender 3. However, it’s not as simple and reliable as pricier printers like the AnkerMake M5C.

Another option in this price range is the Sovol SV06, which, for around $200, offers specifications almost identical to the Anycubic Kobra 2. But, worse build quality, a less pleasant UI and user experience, and trouble printing with materials beyond PLA and ABS make the Sovol SV06 a worse choice than the Anycubic Kobra 2. Both machines have the potential to produce quality prints, but it’s easier to get there with the Kobra 2 in my opinion.

Best FDM Kit Under $300

Anycubic Kobra 2

Improved, upgraded version of the original Kobra, with much faster print speeds, good auto leveling, and a reliable direct drive extruder.

Anycubic here Amazon here

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2. Best Resin Under $300 – Anycubic Photon M3

• Price: Check price at Anycubic here
• Build Volume: 163.9 x 102.4 x 180 mm
• Speed: 50 mm/h

The Anycubic Photon M3 is sturdy and compact, and prints detailed miniatures, figurines, and other decorative models. 4K was great a year or so ago, but now even 12K is fairly common, but resolution isn’t the difference-maker companies make it out to be, and it’s difficult to see the difference.

You only need a simple manual leveling routine to get started and fire up your first print. The 102 x 164 x 180 mm build volume is on the smaller side (though bigger than previous Anycubic resin printers like the Mono 4K) and there’s no automatic vat refilling, Wi-Fi, etc. 

But, for $200… you can’t expect the world!! What you do get is a fast, reliable printer that just works. No hassle, no tinkering – just high-quality prints reliably.

The Elegoo Mars 3 is an alternative to the Photon M3, and is similarly priced. But the larger build volume Photon M3 means more space to work with, especially if you’re batch print minis. If you’re a stickler for detail then go with the Mars 3, as it has a very marginal extra 5 microns of detail – 35 microns compared to Photon M3’s 40 microns.

Best Budget Anycubic Resin Printer

Anycubic Photon M3 Resin 3D Printer

$209

This budget-friendly powerhouse delivers an extra-large 180 x 163 x 102mm build area perfect for printing batches of detailed miniatures.

Experience speedy 50mm/hr print speeds and crisp 40 micron resolution from the impressive 4K LCD screen.

Simple, reliable, and user-friendly, the Photon M3 makes resin printing more accessible than ever.

Anycubic Store here Amazon here

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3. Best For Kids – Toybox 3D

• Price: $299 – Available at Toybox Official store here
• Build volume: 70 x 80 x 90 mm
• Speed: 60mm/s

The Toybox is not a high-tech, workhorse 3D printer with which to start a business.

But, it is one of the simplest 3D printers I’ve ever used, and I highly recommend it for your kids and beginners looking for a stress-free start to 3D printing.

The build volume is small at just 70 x 80 x 90 mm, but if you just want to print miniatures and other fun characters, it’s a great option. 

Toybox have partnered with numerous big players to bring you a huge range of free models you can 3D print too, from Batman and Wonder Woman, to fun 3D printable dragons, tanks, cars, and so much more.

My first print was a cute seal I found in their repository, which you can see below:

For kids it’s super safe: it only prints low-temperature PLA, and any hot parts are kept well away from prying hands by the enclosure. However, you cannot print with ABS or other higher-temp filaments with the Toybox.

You get many small spools of different color filaments to print away with, which Toybox affectionately calls “3D printer food”. These are simple to set up and change, so your kids can easily print in different colors.

If you’re a beginner, want hassle-free fun, or want to get your kids into 3D printing cheaply, I highly recommend the Toybox. You can also read my full Toybox 3D printer review.

Best 3D Printer for Kids

Toybox: 3D Printer for Kids

4.8

$299-349

Super easy to set up, comes with different filament colors to get started, and a huge range of 3D printable files (including licensed Batman models!) that your kids will LOVE.

Pros:

• Very simple smartphone interface suitable for all ages.
• Fully enclosed design keeps hot parts away from fingers.
• Easy to switch between colors of PLA filament

Cons:

• Can only print PLA, not higher-temp materials like ABS.

Toybox Store here

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4. Best Resin Under $500 – Anycubic Photon M5s

• Price: Check price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 218 x 123 x 200 mm
• Speed: 105mm/h

The Photon M5s features a range of sensors, self-checks, and monitoring tools – resin level, pre-print diagnostics, force sensors, print separation detection and alerts, and more. 

All these work to make printing on M5s easier and faster while losing less resin to failures and botched prints. There’s no manual leveling either, as the sensors and detectors remove the need for tedious pre-print bed leveling. Resin is a messy business, so any printer that reduces the stress gets points in my book.

It’s as close to plug-and-play resin printing as I’ve seen. I also liked the compact design, the Wi-Fi connectivity, and the fact it has a 10.1” 12K LCD screen. 

There are other 12K resin printers now like the Elegoo Saturn 3 and Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K (with a 12K upgrade), but they don’t have these extra diagnostic and monitoring features like the Photon M5s has.

The Photon Mono M5s has an ACF film instead of FEP, which delivers faster print speeds (using fast resin) thanks to lesser peel force than typical resin films, although it will need replacing more often. Though, when I was testing the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra, the ACF did cause occasional issues – though this isn’t the case with the M5s Pro.

The M5s is my recommendation under $500 for ultra-fine print quality overall.

Anycubic Photon Mono M5s

Anycubic here Amazon here

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5. Best FDM Under $500 – AnkerMake M5C

• Price: Check price at AnkerMake here
• Build Volume: 220x220x250mm
• Speed: 250mm/s

After reviewing the AnkerMake M5C, I genuinely think it’s one of the few printers that really delivers a hassle-free, set-and-forget printing experience. 

It just works, saving the frustration-inducing tinkering and fine-tuning I’ve had with so many other FDM kits.

It includes spot-on automatic bed leveling, a PEI-coated removable print bed (with positioning notches on the heated plate as well), a direct drive extruder capable of speeds up to 500 mm/s, and an accompanying app that is among the most intuitive and pleasant I’ve come across. 

It also has a one-click button to fire off, pause, and otherwise control prints, which the Bambu Lab A1 and Creality Ender 3 V3 SE don’t have.

The AnkerMake M5C is well-built, mostly made from flush metal and high-quality parts throughout, and it handles the vibration of fast print speeds well. Even at high speeds, nothing I tried to print with the AnkerMake M5C came out badly.

Fastest Low-Cost 3D Printer

AnkerMake M5C 3D Printer

4.6

$399.00

We also have an exclusive discount code: 3DSM5C.

Use this code and get $80 off!

Pros:

• Dizzyingly fast print speeds – it printed a Benchy accurately at 500mm/s
• Superb print quality, especially on my articulated dragon print
• Impressive all-round build quality
• Sophisticated, responsive, and useful mobile app
• Tinker-free bed leveling and printing
• Direct drive extruder is always nice to have

Cons:

• Missing SD Card slot
• Very loud operating noise levels. With noise-canceling headphones, I could still hear it from 20 feet away.
• No on-printer screen
• Strangely, it didn’t ship with any filament – not even a test sample
• Spool holder feels a bit flimsy to me

AnkerMake Direct here Amazon here

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6. Best Fast CoreXY 3D Printer – Creality K1

• Price: Check price at Creality here
• Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
• Speed: 600mm/s

The Creality K1 is a nippy, fully enclosed CoreXY printer for makers who prioritize high print speeds and a simple, user-friendly printing experience. 

Above all else, it’s a CoreXY machine for under $500… rivaling printers like the Bambu Lab X1 in print performance, which is on the whole nothing short of excellent (though you’ll probably also know the drawbacks of Bambu printers…).

It has acceleration speeds up to 20,000 mm/s and a max print speed of 600 mm/s built on a repurposed and rebranded iteration of Klipper, meaning the Creality K1 pumps out a Benchy in roughly 13 minutes. 

A direct drive extruder with a 32 mm3/s flow rate, a ceramic heater, dual print fans, an auxiliary fan in the build chamber, and a full metal heatbreak/nozzle combo capable of 300°C prints most high-temp filaments, thanks to the enclosed chamber.

It ships pre-calibrated, has automatic leveling, and fully assembled. There’s Wi-Fi and a robust in-app software ecosystem means the K1 is very much in keeping with the push to remote print control and monitoring.

Creality K1 3D Printer

Features:

• Max Speed: 600mm/s
• Acceleration: 20000mm/s²
• Hands-free Auto Leveling
• Self-test
• with One Tap

Creality here

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7. Best Large Resin Printer – Anycubic Photon M3 Max

• Price: Check price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 298 x 164 x 300 mm
• Speed: 60 mm/h

For $850.00, you get a 298 x 164 x 300 mm, which feels more like an FDM printer size. You also get a sleek 13.6” 7K LCD, smart auto-resin refill functionality for larger extended prints, an 84 LED matrix light source that prints up to a decent (but unremarkable) 60 mm/s, and a clever dual-sided frosted FEP film – smooth where it contacts the LCD and coarse when the resin is cured to enhance adhesion. 

Combined, these produce highly detailed models and parts with an XY resolution of 46 microns, which is phenomenal for the size of the build volume.

Other options in the large resin printer space include the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K, but at $1,500 is almost twice the price for roughly 10 cm extra of height (and a bump to 8K resolution).

All in all, the Photon M3 Max is the best large resin printer out there for a balance of affordability, print volume, and pristine resin print detail.

Large Volume Pick

ANYCUBIC Photon M3 Max Resin 3D Printer, 13.6 7K UV LCD

$959.99

Anycubic here Amazon here

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8. Best Large-Format FDM – Elegoo Neptune 4 Max

• Price: Check price at Elegoo here / Amazon here
• Build Volume: 420 x 420 x 480 mm
• Speed: 500mm/s

The Eleggo Neptune 4 Max is a great option if you want to combine a massive 420 x 420 x 480 mm build volume with Klipper-powered print speeds up to 500 mm/s, all while maintaining print quality. When reviewing the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max, I earmarked it as the best affordable large-format printer for hobbyists eyeing up big projects.

And, at under $500, with 121-point automatic bed leveling, a 300°C high temperature nozzle, Wi-Fi connectivity, and a proprietary dual-gear direct extruder, the Neptune 4 Max has all the modern features you’d want. 

It’s well-equipped to print huge PLA, PETG, ABS, and TPU models and parts but also performs well with more exotic filaments like Nylon if you have an enclosure.

However, for all its merits, the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max requires tinkering to get prints dialled in. Expect some troubleshooting and hashing out settings to get this printer to really shine. 

For that reason, it’s not the best suited for beginners (if you are a beginner, go with the Ankermake M5, Kobra 2, or Sovol SV06).

Great Large-Volume 3D Printer

Elegoo Neptune 4 Max

4.4

With a large 420x420x480mm build volume, integrated auto bed leveling, and fast print speeds enabled by Klipper, the Neptune 4 Max is an affordable option for hobbyists wanting to print big.

However, some tinkering is likely needed to get the best results.

Pros:

• High potential print speeds (pre-installed Klipper + good processor)
• Huge 420 x 420 x 480 mm build volume
• 121-point mesh auto-leveling
• Direct drive print head
• Huge toggleable fan

Cons:

• Likely to need tinkering to work properly
• Difficult to swap proprietary nozzle
• Few upgrades from the cheaper Neptune Max 3

Elegoo here Amazon here

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9. Best Low-Cost Dual Extruder – Sovol SV04

• Price: $539 — Available at Sovol here
• Build volume: 300 x 300 x 400 mm
• Speed: 200mm/sec

If you want a great dual extruder 3D printer and don’t want to pay more than a thousand bucks, then you have two main options: the Sovol SV04 or the Flashforge Creator Pro 2.

The main difference is the Sovol SV04’s much larger build volume, at 300 x 300 x 400 mm, the same as the Creality CR-10. This lets you print large objects with multi-colors, or even two fairly large models at the time using the IDEX dual extrusion features. However, the Creator Pro 2 is enclosed, whereas this is open-air, so you’ll need to buy an enclosure with it.

I’ve personally tested the Sovol SV04, and managed to print some cool multi-colored 3D prints like the frog and cube shown below:

I also printed some great plant pots for some flowers and a cactus using the Copy Mode feature, with each extruder printing a plant pot simultaneously for double the productivity. The Creator Pro 2 does not have a large enough build volume to 3D print both vases simultaneously, whereas I could with the Sovol SV04.

To summarize: if you want a large-format, reliable dual extruder printer, go for the Sovol SV04. The IDEX is a really handy addition (the Sovol SV02 isn’t IDEX) for quickly making multiple parts.

But, if you don’t mind having the smaller build volume, and instead prefer the enclosed build chamber to better print materials like ABS and Nylon, then go for the Flashforge.

Sovol SV04 IDEX 3D Printer

Sovol here

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10. Best 3-in-1 3D Printer – Snapmaker 2.0 AT

• Price: Check price at Snapmaker here / Also Available on Amazon here
• Build volumes: up to 320 x 350 x 330 mm
• Speed: 60 mm/s

Snapmaker manufactures the best 3-in-1 3D printers, and you can easily switch the extruder module out and switch in the CNC carver or the laser engraver module in just a few minutes and get working.

The 3D printer module would be a standalone high quality printer. I was surprised by just how reliable, accurate, and effective it was when I used it, even when printing thin-walled vases. The metal structure and linear rails are sturdy, retaining precision even on the largest A350T we tested.

You can 3D print all major hobbyist filaments like PLA, TPU, and ABS. The smartphone-shaped touchscreen makes it really easy to operate, and the WiFi connectivity saves you the hassle of constantly plugging in SD cards or USBs.

You get a range of premium features — auto-leveling, filament run-out detection, dynamic print speeds via the intelligent software — generally making your 3D printing experience more pleasant and productive.

By default you get the weaker 1.6W cutting module which we still managed to laser engrave with nicely, as well as cutting through thin and soft wood (though it takes a lot longer than specialized lasers).

However, you can purchase the 10W high-power laser for an extra few hundred bucks, which can engrave anodized aluminum (check out our wolf engraving below) and comfortably cut through acrylic and wood – we cut out a rhino puzzle from black acrylic in under 13 minutes.

You can carve soft and hard woods, carbon fiber sheets and acrylics. We also used the 4-axis CNC module to carve chess pieces from epoxy blocks, proving the bit can comfortably carve most woods and similar materials.

We cut chess pieces using the V-bit carver and the 4-axis rotary module add-on (this costs an extra few hundred bucks, though), which lets you carve into cylindrical blocks like a lathe to create detailed characters. Snapmaker Luban software handles the four axes well, and it’s a very well-designed software and slicer generally – it was easier to use the rotary than on specialized software like Lightburn.

If you want to engrave contrasting images, you can use the laser engraver. It can engrave on woods, leather, fabrics and acrylic. We engraved a few cylinder-shaped blocks to test the 4-axis engraving module and used the laser cutter to cut through a thin piece of wood to make this gift box.

We recommend also purchasing the enclosure to improve your printing experience and keep you safer — and you may also want to pick up some extras for CNC. Their wide range of extras and goodies are on their site, which you can visit here.

If you’re considering the more expensive Snapmaker Artisan, then yes the Artisan is better at almost everything. But it’s significantly more expensive, and for the price, the Snapmaker 2.0 AT is still a great deal for all three swappable heads.

You can see more Snapmaker models in our article comparing Snapmaker 2.0, Snapmaker J1, and Snapmaker Artisan.

Top 3-in-1 Pick For 3D Printing, CNC & Laser Cutting

Snapmaker 2.0 Modular 3 in 1 3D Printer A350T/A250T

$1169 ($600 off!)

Switch the toolheads within minutes to 3D print, CNC cut, and laser cut and engrave in one machine. You can even buy the higher-power 10W laser attachment, a 4-axis rotary add-on for cutting or engraving round objects, and more!

Snapmaker here

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11. Best Professional FDM – Raise3D Pro3 Plus

• Price: Check price at Matterhackers here
• Build Volume: 300x300x605mm
• Speed: 200-350 mm/s

The Raise3D Pro3 Plus is a reliable, easy-to-operate, and extremely well-built machine to power a small additive manufacturing business, in an architect’s office, or as a rapid prototyping tool in the R&D wing of an automotive, aerospace, or electronics business.

The Raise3D Pro3 Plus offers print speeds up to 350 mm/s at an accuracy of 5 microns, and across a dual extruder setup to jump between filament types and colors. 

This is powered by the Raise3D’s proprietary Hyper FFF® technology, essentially an active vibration cancellation algorithm that absorbs excess jerks and judders at high print speeds to safeguard print quality. 

It also features a fully enclosed chamber to tackle everything from nylon to carbon fiber by way of ABS, TPU, glass fiber, and everything in between.

The Raise3D Pro3 Plus is built around a large 300 x 300 x 605 mm, with a clear emphasis on verticality to take on tall or elongated models and parts.

To round off the features list, the printer has automatic bed leveling, 300°C hotend that are modular and interchangeable, a built-in Eve smart assistant that suggests solutions for common problems and schedules maintenance, in-chamber spool holders, an HD camera for remote monitoring, and a HEPA filter-equipped airflow manager for impactful heat dissipation and air circulation.

It’s more expensive than other printers with similar specs, but you pay for repeatability and reliability.

Raise3D Pro3 Plus 3D Printer

MatterHackers here

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Factors to Consider When Buying a 3D Printer

Resin or FDM?

For accurate minis for D&D, go for a resin 3D printer – they can print with much finer resolutions and smoother surface areas.

But for a simpler setup and generally more relaxed experience (no curing, no chemicals) with stronger prints, go for an FDM printer. Functional prints work better with FDM, and if you’re a D&D fan, you’ll still want an FDM printer for the terrain, even if you’re printing the mini characters themselves with a resin printer.

For FDM, PLA filament is easiest as it doesn’t really warp, doesn’t require a heated bed or enclosure (still use it if you have them), and comes in a wide variety of colors and blends (even conductive or glow-in-the-dark!), and it’s cheap.

ABS is tougher despite being just as cheap, and still comes in a wide range of colors. But, it can warp and crack if you don’t use a heated bed and, ideally, an enclosed chamber. Some consider PETG a happy medium: it’s great for adhesion and super tough – but its stickiness makes it difficult to print overhangs and supports.

For resins, you don’t have the same range of material or color options.

What size models do you want to print?

Don’t waste your money on an enormous 3D printer if you want to print miniatures, but also don’t skimp on a smaller machine if you want to print huge cosplay swords.

Think about what you want to print right now – and what you might want to print in the future. It’s an expensive decision to get wrong. Also, consider the size of your workspace – 3D printers are deceptively big, so make sure it fits.

Also, resin 3D printers typically have smaller build volumes than FDM printers.

What do you want to 3D print generally?

Beyond size, think about exactly what you want to 3D print for your projects. If you’re not as fussed about perfect quality, go for a printer with high top speeds (delta 3D printers are generally better for this, as are coreXY printers) – especially if you’re printing cubes and similar shapes that don’t have details. 

But, if you want high-resolution, pick printers that can handle lower layer heights and take smaller nozzle sizes – or resin printers with the most precise XY resolutions. 

For high-temperature filaments, get an enclosed 3D printer like the Creator Pro 2, or buy an enclosure for your printer. Creality sells their own enclosures, and there are popular DIY projects for the Prusa and other best-selling printers.

If you want to print PC, Nylon, carbon-fiber mixes, and other abrasive blends, you’ll need a printer with a hot end and nozzle to handle these temperatures.

And if you want to print flexible filaments like TPU, opt for a direct drive 3D printer.

Beginner or expert?

While you shouldn’t be discouraged if you’re a beginner, we recommend you pick 3D printers with features such as auto-leveling, WiFi connectivity, filament run-out sensors and print resume functions, and easy-to-use software and touchscreens to save you hassle if you’re newer or less technical.

WiFi connectivity saves you from taking SD cards back and forth from your laptop to your 3D printer for every print, and is generally a nice addition to boost productivity.

Filament run-out sensors and print resume features (in case of a power cut or similar) are fairly ubiquitous now – even most entry-level 3D printers have them. But they can be a lifesaver, especially if you lose power during the latter stages of a 24-hour or longer print of a large prototype or cosplay costume piece.

Cura should have you covered for the slicer, but some 3D printers have more intuitive interfaces than others. Most now have touchscreens (though turnable knobs on printers like the Enders and Prusas are fine), and we particularly liked the Snapmaker’s easy-to-use touchscreen interface and design. 

Go for a trusted brand and model if buying on the cheap side

There are hordes of low-cost 3D printers in the $160-$300 range. Most aren’t that reliable, and we recommend sticking with FDM kits like the Ender 3 range, Anycubic entry-level printers, and Elegoo or Anycubic resin printers.

The last thing you want to do is get burned and left with an expensive brick. Opt for a highly-reputed printer with large communities and active forums.

For more information on picking a 3D printer, this Reddit thread has an excellent breakdown of some other factors.

What’s Changed?

We consistently update our reviews based on our latest hands-on tests of new 3D printers. We wrote the first edition of this article back in 2018 and have maintained it to recommend the best 3D printers in 2024.

Jan 2024 updates:

• Removed the Prusa Mini and MK3S+, Flashforge Creator Pro 2, Anycubic Vyper, Elegoo Saturn S, Ultimaker S3, and Ultimaker S5.
• Either better technology has made these obsolete, or they just haven’t kept up with the pace of innovation, especially with CoreXY advances in FDM print speeds.

Feb 2024 updates:

• I added the Creality K1, AnkerMake M5C, Elegoo Neptune 4 Max, and Anycubic Kobra 2 as our top recommendation in each of their categories.

If you enjoyed this article, you may also enjoy:

• Our guide to the best 3D pens
• Our ranking of the best 3D scanners
• Our ranking of the best 3D printers for beginners
• Our ranking of the best SLS 3D printers
• Our ranking of the best FDM 3D printers
• Our ranking of the best resin 3D printers
• 3D printer deals

The best free product design tools are FreeCAD and Blender, though they’re very different. FreeCAD is for precise mechanical and industrial product design. But you can use Blender if your product is an organic model or anything that doesn’t need mechanical precision. 

For paid options, there are professional options like Fusion 360, Inventor, Rhino 3D, and Solidworks.

To help you make the right choice, we’ll also cover the main factors to consider when picking software for your product design projects, and some frequently asked questions if you’re just getting into the industry. 

But first, it’s important to clarify that their product design software consists of two different categories.

The Two Types of Product Design Software

There are two types of product design software:

1. CAD
2. 3D software (mesh)

3D software is on the art side, while CAD is on the engineering side. If your product is about aesthetics, you should use 3D software, but if your product is about physical precision, use CAD.

For example, if you’re designing a jar that looks like a rabbit, use 3D software, but if you’re designing gears that fit together, go with CAD. You can also use 3D software in the ideating stage of product design to get a fast and photo-realistic visual of the product.

Many people might tell you they can design with utmost precision in 3D software. But in my experience, 3D software is useless for making precise parts. CAD designs are built with vectors, while 3D software uses meshed surfaces.

The bottom line is that although you can find many photo-realistic engine designs and other product designs that look tremendous in a 3D software, it’s just that. These are designs that artistically look good, but when it comes to actually making that product, they’re nothing more than a good-looking visual.

Best Product Design Software for Artistic Products 

1. Blender – Best Free Software for Artistic Products

• Price: Free
• Compatibility: Windows, Mac, Linux

If you’re looking for the best product design software for art that’s completely free and open source, it’s hard to look past Blender.

Blender is an exceptional free modeling software that’s used for everything from animation and VFX to video editing and product design. However, it’s not CAD, so it can’t be used for product design on the engineering level. 

Available on Windows, Mac & Linux, it provides various designing tools, including 2D sketching and sculpting, with second-to-none renderings for bringing your models to life. 

It also has some nice features for streamlining the product development process. For example, you can use automatic modifiers like the “subdivision surface” modifier to smooth a shape along with tons of other modifiers.

Bear in mind that Blender is a powerful software, and has a steep learning curve – and this is without the support you get with some paid programs, so it can be daunting for beginners. There’s a great community though if you are stuck.

On the other hand, there is also a very active user community around Blender and a marketplace through which you can purchase custom scripts.

2. SketchUp – Best For Interior Designers and Architects 

• Price: Free/Paid
• Compatibility (Desktop Version): Windows, MacOS

SketchUp is the most beginner-friendly software I recommend on this list. It’s a 2D and 3D software that’s more basic than Blender, but is very well-designed and simple to use, so it’s easier to learn. Although many people call it CAD, SketchUp is not CAD –  and you can’t use it for precision-sensitive products.

SketchUp is excellent for architects and interior designers, and it’s much easier to use than CAD software like AutoCAD. You can easily make buildings, walls, rooms with decors and cabinets and even walk inside the model. Woodworkers, beginner animators, cabinet makers, and many more also use SketchUp for its good renders, ease of use, and excellent 3D warehouse.

The 3D warehouse is SketchUp’s library of about 5 million ready models that you can access to import into your designs.

There is an unlimited free version of SketchUp with storage limits, and fewer features than the paid options, but the paid options are also affordable, starting from $95 a year. Subscribers to paid licenses get access to more advanced capabilities such as experience reality headset viewing of your models and 360° panoramic renderings. All paid versions are compatible with iPad, Windows, and Chromebook.

SketchUp is available both online and offline, though the free version is online only. SketchUp is also available on Mac and iPad. The iPad app is a good option if you want to use a stylus for product designing, as few other programs have this functionality.

Best Product Design Software for Engineered Products

3. FreeCAD: Best Free Product Design Software

• Price: free
• Compatibility: Windows, macOS, and Linux

If you’re into product design and don’t want to spend on software, FreeCAD is for you.

It’s a capable 3D parametric modeler, so you can design parts and other engineered products. You can simulate assembly animations and even use its FEM workbench to perform mechanical simulations (like FEA analysis) on your designed parts. 

Another advantage is that since FreeCAD is open source, programmers can add special capabilities to their software with Python programming.

So, what’s the catch? 

For one thing, FreeCAD has a steeper learning curve than similar software like Fusion 360 and SolidWorks. It has a large and active community of users, but the UI itself is not as beginner-friendly.

FreeCAD also doesn’t have an assembly workbench, though there are plugins for it. An assembly workbench is the core of making complicated products that are assembled from many parts, but FreeCAD is not great with large designs. This is part of the reason FreeCAD is not used extensively in the industry. But for indies and designers making simpler products, you can’t argue with extensive design features for free.

Another drawback is that FreeCAD is not good for direct modeling at all. So, if you want to go down that road, you should take a look at Rhino.

4. Fusion 360 – Best Product Design App for Beginner-Level Design 

• Price: free for personal use, $680 yearly, from $85 monthly 
• Compatibility: Windows, MacOS, iOS, Android, Chrome OS

Autodesk’s Fusion 360 is another of the most popular and best 3D product design software on the market. The price has been on the rise for the past two consecutive years. In 2024, it experienced a 25% increase going from $545 to $680. 

But despite this, Fusion 360 is still the best bang for the buck among all CAD (except FreeCAD, which is free). 

As is typical of Autodesk software, Fusion 360 is well-designed and very intuitive, which makes it a favorite of both hobbyists and professionals alike. There are also loads of tutorials and guides online to help you get started. 

Plus, as it’s cloud-based it’s ideal for collaboration. It also offers a high-quality iOS app that supports over 50 different 2D & 3D CAD formats, so it’s perfect for designing on your iPad.

It’s a multi-functional program built for CAD, CAM, CAE, and PCB modeling operations within a single design suite, usable for every step in the product design and manufacturing workflow.

However, although Fusion’s design tools are as advanced as mid-level CADs like SolidWorks, Fusion 360 is not as robust for larger assemblies. So, if you’re designing products with many parts, Inventor or SolidWorks are better. 

Fusion 360’s base version offers a wide range of advanced design and 3D modeling tools for creating high-quality, precise products and then simulating them in 3D to test against real-world conditions. However, if you’re really serious about product design, you should also consider the Fusion 360 Product Design Extension.

This is fairly costly at $72 a month, but offers a variety of features designed to automate and simplify the product design process, so it can help to improve both the efficiency and accuracy of your work.

5. Autodesk Inventor – Best for Mechanical Product Design

• Price: from $318 a month
• Compatibility: Windows

While Fusion 360 is more of a general-purpose CAD/CAM software, Inventor is specifically tailored to mechanical design, so it’s a popular option among professional engineering designers for industrial design. This is an excellent mid-level CAD for product design, and offers better value for money than its rival SolidWorks.

This is a powerful and flexible software that offers a mix of parametric, direct, freeform and rules-based design, so it’s perfect for designing complex shapes for mechanical parts.

On top of that, it has a range of integrated tools for designing things like sheet metal, cables, and piping. Thanks to the DWG compatibility and model-based definition capabilities, manufacturing information is embedded directly into your designs.

Inventor allows you to simulate your designs in real-world conditions and optimize accordingly, and it has built-in collaboration tools allowing for easy feedback from colleagues and stakeholders.

There are also a variety of tools designed to streamline workflows and improve efficiency. For example, you can use the iLogic feature to automate tasks, and you can use the Forge Design Automation API for processing jobs in the cloud.

Another benefit of using Autodesk software like Investor is that it’s integrated with other Autodesk programs, like Fusion 360 and AutoCAD, so you can combine the capabilities of each.

6. Rhino 3D – Best CAD for Product Designs Combining Aesthetics and Precision 

• Price: from $995 for perpetual license 
• Compatibility: Windows, Mac

Rhino 3D is a well-known product design and 3D modeling software that’s been on the market for over 20 years. It’s one of the most unique CADs out there. 

We said earlier in the article that you should use 3D software for aesthetics, and CAD for precision. What if you wanted both? Then you should use Rhino because it’s a perfect mix of CAD and flexible artistic capabilities. 

Unlike other CAD software on this list, Rhino focuses on direct modeling and NURBS surfaces. This relieves the user from the grip of “constraints” and allows Rhino to offer tremendous tools for freeform modeling. The user can treat the model like forming clay.

Rhino’s Grasshopper tool also allows node-based limited parametric modeling. Therefore, Rhino’s flexibility for artistic design combines with the precision of CAD. This is a perfect mix for tons of product designers. However, it also means that Rhino is not a great tool for complex mechanical parts.

So, if you’re designing toys, jewelry, surface boards, or anything that’s not mechanically too complex yet looks beautiful, Rhino is your friend. It’s no surprise that Rhino is very popular among jewelers.

Other 3D modeling techniques used in this software include point clouds, subdivision geometry, and polygon meshes (bear in mind this means the software is not suited to 2D designing). As well as modeling, Rhino 3D can be used for high-quality rendering, animations, drawing, and product documentation.

There are many examples of Rhino 3D being used for product design online, for example, here’s some for designing a hairdryer, computer mouse, and an iron. Rhino has an active user community, where you can engage with other users, get help and learn how to carry out different functions with the program, and check out other users’ creations.

7. Solidworks – Industry-Standard for Mid-Level Product Design 

• Price: Starting from about $3,995 to about $8,000 for perpetual license

Solidworks is one of the best-known CAD and CAE software for industrial designers, and is used by professionals around the world to create everything from airplane parts to medical devices.

The Solidworks manufacturing design software is part of Dassault Systemes’ 3DExperience platform. This is a collaborative environment that aims to simplify the design process and increase innovation through a variety of ways. 

It provides all the design tools you need, from conceptualization through to modeling, including easy-to-use sketching tools, integrated and free-form parametric modeling, direct editing that transforms both native and imported geometry, and unrivaled renderings that provide realistic depictions of how your products will look.

Solidworks then aims to bring teams together on its cloud platforms, so you can easily collaborate and collect stakeholder concept feedback, with all data stored securely and available anywhere. 

Despite being one of the most advanced software for product design, Solidworks is also one of the best-designed, with a very user-friendly interface. It also has a buzzing user community – one downside is it’s unavailable on Mac and Chromebook. 

Another major drawback for SolidWorks is its price. It’s the most expensive of the mid-level CAD software.

What Can You Do With Product Design Software?

• Precise designs that are compatible with all manufacturing machines like 3D printers, CNC machines, laser cutters, molds, etc.
• Complete control over every structural and aesthetic aspect of your products. 
• Create unlimited revisions, all of which are saved and reflected instantly in models. 
• View designs in photorealistic renderings & simulate them in real-world conditions. 
• Automate and simplify the design process to improve efficiency.
• Easily share projects and collaborate with colleagues and clients. 

While free and cheap programs typically have more limited tools for industrial design, you also have software like Blender which is completely free and open-source, yet very advanced.

So, you need to take a deep dive into a program’s capabilities to see if it’s suitable for you. As an example, let’s look at Blender in comparison to Solidworks, one of the most expensive and best software for product design.

While both are very high quality, there are some fundamental differences between the two (aside from price). 

Blender uses mesh-based 3D modeling, while Solidworks uses parametric modeling. This means Blender is better for creating organic models, while Solidworks is better for mechanical drawing and manufacturing using defined parameters and constraints.

Product design is a very varied and wide-ranging process, and what you can do with software isn’t solely defined by how much cash you can spend, so make sure you really explore a program’s capabilities before signing up.

How To Pick

CAD or Mesh?

This is the most important thing to consider – and is all about precision. 

3D mesh software like Blender is perfect for organic models and any design where aesthetics are more important than precision. However, if you’re designing mechanical products for manufacturing, then you should use CAD.

Compatibility

While most software runs on Windows, if you’re using Mac, iOS, Android, or Chromebook, you’ll need to make sure a product development platform supports your operating system before signing up. Some programs, like SketchUp and Fusion 360, are available on all major operating systems. 

Features & Functionality

The most important step is finding a product design software solution that has the capabilities you need. 

Are you looking for both 2D and 3D design? Do you want to use organic models, like in Blender, or parametric models, like in Solidworks? Are you looking for a program like Fusion 360 that supports CAD and CAM as well as CAE and PCB? These are the types of questions you need to ask yourself. 

Rendering Quality 

Every designer wants high-quality 3D renderings that bring their models to life in photorealistic quality, and this is especially important to pros. However, the better the graphics and rendering, typically the higher the cost. This isn’t always the case, as Blender is free and has high-quality rendering, but other top rendering programs like Solidworks come at a pretty high cost.

Software like SketchUp also offers options like panoramic and interactive augmented reality renderings which can provide different perspectives on your designs. 

Usability & Training

This is especially important for beginners, as many product design software are complex and have a steep learning curve. If you’re new to product design, look for software that are designed to be user-friendly, offer support and training, and have active user communities where you can more through forums. 

SketchUp is one of the most beginner-friendly product design software, while Fusion 360 is another intuitive program that can be quicker to learn than others like Rhino 3D.

Budget & Free Trial

As you can see from our reviews, the price for top product design software varies widely, and many programs have various license options with different features. Luckily, there are some free options like Blender and SketchUp, and the majority of paid programs offer free trials, so it’s always recommended to use this and thoroughly test the software before you drop a large amount of money.

FAQs

Related posts:

• Best Open-Source CAD Software & Active Communities
• What is CAD? Common Questions Answered
• Free 3D Printing CAD Software For Beginners and Experts
• Car and Automotive Design Software (2D and 3D)
• Free Furniture Design Software

Bigger 3D printers require more space to fit them, while different projects will require different filaments, resins, paints, or tools that need to be kept handy. Entry-level 3D printers often weigh from 8kg to 18kg, so a workbench needs to comfortably hold this plus any accessories.

How To Pick

We recommend desks that:

• Stable and sturdy: The table needs to be sturdy and strong enough not only to comfortably hold your 3D printer and any tools you have on it but also to prevent the vibrations from affecting print quality.
• Big enough: IKEA Lack tables look great and they’re cheap, but they’re barely big enough to hold a 3D printer with any kind of enclosure, so we recommend going bigger if you have the budget. You want a table big enough to place any accessories, filament storage boxes, desktop storage for resin, gloves, scrapers and other tools, etc.
• Easy to keep clean: Wood surfaces are easy to clean, and don’t get hot during printing. 

I personally do not recommend wheeled 3D printer tables. Lots of people recommend them, but I’m personally nervous about weak brakes, so I avoid them for hot, electric things like 3D printers. They can also be less stable, and you don’t want anything that could affect your print’s surface finish.

The Best 3D Printer Tables in 2024 – Reviews

1. Olympia Hardwood Workbench

• Price: Check on Amazon here

Not just one of the strongest affordable benches out there, the Olympia hardwood workbench is also one of the best-looking.

If you like to show off your workstation, then this hardwood desk is definitely something to add to your cart. As well as being very nice to look at, the Olympia works very well as a 3D printer table.

Sturdy enough to hold several times what the average 3D printer weighs, and with enough desktop space to keep any peripheral tools or resins within a safe distance, the Olympia is an ideal 3D printer stand.

Hardwood is also famously easy to clean, so it’s easy to keep dust-free. And for under $200, it’s definitely worth adding to your wish list at least.

2. Heavy Duty Foldable Workbench

• Price: Check on Amazon here

While the foldable nature of this heavy-duty 3D printer workbench isn’t useful for the not-so-portable machines that are 3D printers — it’s the sturdiness that really counts here.

With a pedal lock on the bottom of the legs, this workbench is a great 3D printer table as it’s more vibration-resistant and stable than many others.

In addition, it comes with a pegboard for handy access to scrapers and other tools without risking leaving them around and cluttering up your space or, worse, getting lost.

3. Repurposed Home Office Computer Desk

• Price: Check on Amazon here

Sometimes simplicity is key. Bells and whistles can make for confusing spaces, and while drawers and pegboards do come in handy, sometimes you just want a strong surface to use as a 3D printer stand.

Despite being designed for computers, this home office desk is an easy-to-assemble steel frame that’s deep enough to comfortably fit most 3D printers and still leave enough space for extra tools, gloves, and other pieces.

The extra space can also be used for the desk’s original purpose; a computer to plug directly into your printer.

The lack of drawers does limit storage somewhat, but the wide space below is perfect for storing boxes of filament.

If built-in storage is a must for your 3D printer table, however, there’s also this computer desk with shelves on which you can keep resins and tools. Available in a variety of sizes, you can choose which version of this table suits your 3D printer and/or your available space.

4. IKEA Lack Tables (Only if on a STRICT budget!!)

3D printers and super cheap IKEA lack tables can actually go together really well. They’re compact, extremely cheap (around $15 each), and if you have a standard 220 x 220 x 250 mm 3D printer like a Kobra, Ender 3, or Aquila, it’ll fit snugly.

So, if you’re like me and don’t have a lot of spare space, IKEA Lack tables are a super useful table to house your smaller 3D printers.

But… and here’s the big BUT.

They are basically just glue and sawdust- they are NOT strong like a professional workbench.

It’s also not big enough for any serious enclosures, so you’re limited there. It also does not keep out vibrations like other printers do, which will affect your 3D print quality.

And with the latest 3D printers like the Ankermake M5C and Anycubic Kobra 2 reaching such fast speeds now, you’ll feel these vibration issues more than ever.

While some don’t think the vibrations are an issue (for example, this Redditor ran experiments on vibrations from an IKEA Lack table on a CR-10), this doesn’t necessarily mean it doesn’t affect print quality.

If you’re using a Lack, I highly recommend 3D printing some angular brackets for the corners – even if you don’t think it helps with print quality, it’ll help with the noise. And the vibrations can be very noisy.

So, it’s a good stopgap if you’re on a limited budget and need something small. But, if you can afford to get a proper workbench to house your 3D printers and other tools, then I highly recommend buying one of those instead.

Other Things To Keep In Mind

When working with materials like resin, it may be tempting to keep your 3D printer stand covered at least partially in towel or cloth, but this will increase the risk of fires should anything go wrong. Let’s face it, any workstation is going to get stained eventually.

Even if you have a 3D printer with an enclosure, the space around it still needs to be clean to ensure proper ventilation and cleaner air around your workspace. Dust gets kicked up easily as it is without a working machine in the mix.

If you’re directly connecting your 3D printer to your computer, installing hooks under the table to hold the wires will both clean up your workspace and reduce the risk of tripping.

Filament and material storage is also good. If you have your 3D printer in a cool and dry place – like a garage – then it’s handy to have a 3D printer stand or desk with enough space to store your filaments makes for a more efficient workspace.

For other tools that can come in handy, read our guide to 3D printer accessories

The best 3D scanner overall right now is the Revopoint POP 3. 

In our hands-on tests, the POP 3 outperformed all other 3D scanners in its price range, and overall it’s one of the most portable, versatile, and accurate 3D scanners under $1,000.

For a super budget scanner, you can go either for the older Revopoint POP 2, or the Creality CR Scan Ferret.

Super budget pick	Best under $1000 overall	Premium pick
Creality Scan Ferret	Revopoint POP 3	EinScan Pro HD
$329.00	$659	$8,000-$10,000
3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:
3DSourced Rating: 4.2	3DSourced Rating: 4.7	3DSourced Rating: 4.6
Precision: 0.1 mm	Precision: 0.05 mm	Precision: Up to 0.4 mm
Point Distance Resolution: 0.016 mm	Point Distance Resolution: 0.05 mm	Point Distance Resolution: 0.2 - 3 mm
Scan Speed: 30 FPS	Scan Speed: 12-18 FPS	Scan Speed: Up to 30 FPS
Minimum Scan Volume: 50 mm x 50 mm x 50 mm	Minimum Scan Volume: 20 mm x 20 mm x 20 mm	Minimum Scan Volume: 100 mm x 100 mm x 100 mm
Single Capture Range: 560 x 820 @ 700 mm	Single Capture Range: 225 mm x 125 mm	Single Capture Range: 209 x 160 mm minimum; 310 x 240 mm maximum
Working Distance: 150 mm - 700 mm	Working Distance: 150 mm - 400 mm	Working Distance: 510 mm
Creality here	Revopoint here	Dynamism here

Super budget pick

Creality Scan Ferret

$329.00

3DSourced Rating:

3DSourced Rating:

4.2

Precision:

0.1 mm

Point Distance Resolution:

0.016 mm

Scan Speed:

30 FPS

Minimum Scan Volume:

50 mm x 50 mm x 50 mm

Single Capture Range:

560 x 820 @ 700 mm

Working Distance:

150 mm - 700 mm

Creality here

Best under $1000 overall

Revopoint POP 3

$659

3DSourced Rating:

3DSourced Rating:

4.7

Precision:

0.05 mm

Point Distance Resolution:

0.05 mm

Scan Speed:

12-18 FPS

Minimum Scan Volume:

20 mm x 20 mm x 20 mm

Single Capture Range:

225 mm x 125 mm

Working Distance:

150 mm - 400 mm

Revopoint here

Premium pick

EinScan Pro HD

$8,000-$10,000

3DSourced Rating:

3DSourced Rating:

4.6

Precision:

Up to 0.4 mm

Point Distance Resolution:

0.2 - 3 mm

Scan Speed:

Up to 30 FPS

Minimum Scan Volume:

100 mm x 100 mm x 100 mm

Single Capture Range:

209 x 160 mm minimum; 310 x 240 mm maximum

Working Distance:

510 mm

Dynamism here

For a higher quality scanner:

• For around $1,000 the top pick is the Shining 3D Einstar. 
• The EinScan SP is the best in the $2,000 range.
• And the EinScan Pro HD is the best in the $5K-$10K range.

We have separated our reviews into three main price categories:

• Budget 3D scanners (Under $1,000)
• Professional 3D scanners ($1,000 to $10,000)
• Industrial 3D scanners ($10,000+)

Full Comparison

Budget 3D Scanners (Under $1,000)

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1. Revopoint POP 3: Top Pick Overall

• Price: Check latest price at Revopoint here
• Precision: 0.05 mm
• Point Distance Resolution: 0.05 mm
• Scan Speed: 12-18 FPS
• Minimum Scan Volume: 20 mm x 20 mm x 20 mm
• Single Capture Range: 225 mm x 125 mm
• Working Distance: 150 mm – 400 mm

The Revopoint POP 3 is an upgrade on the excellent POP 2, our previous budget pick based on our hands-on POP 2 test. It balances performance and price to bring quality 3D scanning capabilities to lower budget users.

For the low price, it has a 0.05 mm single-frame precision, 0.05 mm point distance resolution, full-color scanning, and up to 18 FPS capture, all powered by a dual-camera infrared structured light setup. These specifics make it a versatile general-purpose scanner useful for 3D printing modeling, digital media, conservation, design, and AR/VR. 

However, professionals and businesses will find that the performance of the POP 3 is somewhat lacking for precise, low-tolerance applications. This focus on catering to many applications means that the POP 3 tends to tail off when it comes to small objects with intricate details such as jewelry. For that, you’re better served elsewhere with a dedicated small object 3D scanner like the Revopoint MINI.

Baked into the Revopoint POP 3 is ease of use, with a sleek, refined workflow from the actual scanning process all the way to seamless WiFI 6-enabled data transfer then processing and editing a scan in the Revo Scan software. You also get two modes, handheld and static, with all the accessories needed to juggle both depending on your needs.

Virtually every aspect of the POP 2 has been improved for the POP 3, including capture speed, brightness, and color capture, so if you want the best Revopoint has to offer the choice is clear. 

However, if you’re after a budget alternative, the POP 2 is a steal, especially if you’re 3D scanning for a hobby. And, if you want to scan smaller objects, such as jewelry, then go with the Revopoint MINI.

Revopoint POP 3

Scanner Features:

Single-frame precision of up to 0.05mm 

Fast scanning speeds of up to 18 fps

An RGB camera with 30% larger aperture

Better color accuracy

9-axis IMU for a better tracking and frame stitching

Single capture range: 244 x 180mm

Revopoint here

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2. CR-Scan Ferret: Best Budget 3D Scanner For 3D Printing

• Price: Check latest price at Creality here
• Accuracy: 0.1 mm
• Point Distance Resolution: 0.016 mm
• Scan Speed: 30 FPS
• Minimum Scan Volume: 50 mm x 50 mm x 50 mm
• Single Capture Range: 560 x 820 @ 700 mm
• Working Distance: 150 mm – 700 mm

An upgrade on the CR-Scan 01, the CR-Scan Ferret is Creality’s newest affordable 3D scanner for 3D printing enthusiasts. The CR-Scan Ferret is the real deal, with an affordable $329 price tag for hobbyists on a tighter budget.

Despite the price, it’s pretty versatile. The CR-Scan Ferret has a high-accuracy mode to capture small and medium objects like minis and figurines, powered by a 0.1 mm accuracy and 0.16 mm precision for improved dimensional accuracy.

There’s also the wide-range mode, with a roomy 560 x 820 mm single capture range. This is useful for scanning medium to large objects such as statues, furniture, and body scans. If there’s something in the real world you want to 3D print, the CR-Scan Ferret can stitch it into a 3D model.

However, compared to pricier alternatives like the Revopoint POP 3, there’s a noticeable drop in scan quality, and the CR-Scan Ferret’s scan positioning can be a little difficult to master. But, for the price, the quality is higher than what you’d expect, with full-color scanning, a compact handheld design, included tripod, speedy 30 FPS capture, and bright sunlight outdoor scanning capabilities.

If you want a better scanner, consider upgrading to the Scan Ferret Pro. It has Wi-Fi 6 transfers, a slightly crisper 0.1 precision, and anti-shake technology to improve scan results. The Ferret Pro is a solid option for dabbling in AR, e-commerce, basic design, and digital archiving.

Creality Scan Ferret

Creality here

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3. SOL 3D Scanner by Scan Dimension

• 3D scanner price: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Accuracy: up to 0.1 mm
• Scan volume: up to 170 x 170 mm
• Scan speed: 10 min in Turbo mode, 20 min normally

SOL is a desktop laser scanner designed for scanning small yet detailed items, with good accuracy for the price.

The actual scanner itself weighs just 7 pounds, and can scan objects that weigh up to 2kg. This light weight makes it a perfect portable 3D scanner if you’re on the move.

It has two different modes depending on what you’re scanning:

• Near mode: for scanning objects of up to 100 mm in diameter and 100 mm in height.
• Far mode: for scanning objects up to 170 mm in diameter and 170 mm in height.

The SOL boasts an accuracy of around 0.1 mm, extremely good for the price range. You scan objects with their included SOL 3D software, and can then easily export your scans as OBJ or STL files and import them into a 3D slicer for 3D printing.

Danish company Scan Dimension promotes this impressive 3D visualizer not only for makers or hobbyists, but also for entrepreneurs. They sell the SOL 3D scanning camera as a way for entrepreneurs to show their products off with a 360-degree view, with easy ways to share these scans on Facebook.

Additionally, Scan Dimension say the scanner is also perfectly suited for education, for teaching students STEM education through scanning and editing structures.

Overall, it’s well suited as both a 3D scanner for businesses and as a home 3D scanner for hobbyists.

4. Matter and Form V2 MFS1V2: Portable Scanner Under $1,000

• 3D scanner cost: Check latest price at Amazon here / Matterhackers here
• Scan volume: 250 x 180 mm
• Accuracy: within 0.1 mm
• Scan speed: up to 65 seconds

The Matter & Form V2 is an updated version of the original M&F desktop 3D scanner. It uses 2 lasers and an HD-CMOS sensor to produce high-resolution, full-color 3D scans. A main selling point is its portability – all you have to do is fold it up and transport it.

The Matter & Form V2 scans objects in sizes up to 25 cm tall and 18 cm in diameter. It’s compatible with every major OS, so Mac users needn’t worry. It’s accurate up to around 0.1mm, and is easily connectable to your computer through USB to transfer over your scans.

However, it is only a stationary scanner, and can’t be used as a handheld body or face scanner like the Revopoint POP 3 for example can.
For editing scans, the Matter and Form scanner comes with specialized Mfstudio, and Quickscan which boosts scan speed to up to 65 seconds. You can then export the STL files and print them with your 3D printer.

5. Revopoint MINI: Best For Jewelry & Small Objects

• Price: Check latest price at Revopoint here
• Accuracy: 0.05 mm
• Point Distance Resolution: 0.02 mm
• Scan Speed: 10 FPS
• Minimum Scan Volume: 10 mm x 10 mm x 10 mm
• Single Capture Range: 40 x 50 @ 100 mm minimum; 118 x 100 @ 200 mm maximum
• Working Distance: 100 – 200 mm

The Revopoint MINI is designed exclusively for scanning small, detail-rich, and intricate objects. Applications include jewelry replication, design, and repair, scanning miniatures for 3D printing, reverse engineering small mechanical parts, and conservation of small artifacts and other historical objects.

This ability to capture small objects with excellent dimensional accuracy and true-to-life details is down to a combination of a 0.5 mm single-frame accuracy, 0.2 mm point distance resolution, and 0.2 mm single-frame precision. 

These are specs rarely seen in this price range. It can scan objects as small as 10 x 10 x 10 mm, for example, small rings and gemstones. When I tested the Revopoint POP 2, and the POP 3, neither could scan objects this small with any kind of detail. This makes the MINI all the more impressive.

However, the Revopoint MINI performs poorly when scanning medium-sized objects, so I still recommend a more general scanner like the POP 3 if you want to scan different-sized objects.

If you’re a small business, jeweler, or enthusiast with a decent budget dabbling in areas where the Revopoint MINI shines, I recommend it as one of the best 3D scanners for small objects and jewelry.

Revopoint Mini

$799

Revopoint here

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Professional 3D Scanners ($1,000 to $10,000)

6. Shining 3D EinScan SE: Best Under $2,000

• Price: Check latest price at Amazon here / Dynamism here
• Scan accuracy: within 0.1 mm for single shots
• Scan range: single scan = 200 x 150 mm, maximum scan range = 700 x 700 mm
• Scan speed: a single shot is under 8 seconds

Shining 3D have made a name for themselves in the medium-range 3D scanning sector, with cheaper options such as the EinScan-SE as well as more expensive scanners like the EinScan Pro 2X Plus.

The EinScan SE is one of the best 3D object scanners in its price range. It scans in around 8 seconds (versus 4 seconds for the EinScan SP) and can complete a whole 360-degree scan in its Automatic Scan mode in around 2 minutes.

It can scan objects up to around 200 mm wide and 150 mm tall, with a single shot accuracy of within 0.1 mm — making it one of the best 3D scanners under $2000. For a fixed scan without the turntable, max scan volume increases up to 700 x 700 mm.

Overall, this 3D model scanner is accurate, reliable, and makes it easy to quickly scan stationary objects and 3D print them with ease. The EinScan SP — described in more detail further in this guide — is more precise, but costs more. Therefore, it’s a matter of your budget and how important this additional quality is for you personally.

7. Shining 3D EinScan Pro HD: Best Under $10,000

• Price: Check latest price at Dynamism here
• Accuracy: Up to 0.4 mm
• Point Distance Resolution: 0.2 – 3 mm
• Scan Speed: Up to 30 FPS
• Minimum Scan Volume: 100 mm x 100 mm x 100 mm
• Single Capture Range: 209 x 160 mm minimum; 310 x 240 mm maximum
• Working Distance: 510 mm

The EinScan Pro HD is a professional industrial-grade 3D scanner that offers both handheld and static modes to capture high-resolution 3D models of objects of all sizes. 

Whether you’re looking to reverse engineer a car part or scan an ornate historical artifact, the EinScan Pro HD produces superb quality scans that are both accurate and richly detailed. For example, scanning a human face delivers a 3D model that captures every wrinkle, blemish, and subtle feature, something that simply isn’t possible on low-cost scanners.

It achieves this by balancing a 0.4 mm accuracy and 0.2 point distance resolution, which means highly accurate scans regardless of scan volume and the target object’s size. Capture speed is also impressive given the level of detail on offer, with up to 30 FPS in handheld mode and less than 0.5 seconds per single frame in Fixed Scan Mode.

Thanks to some clever positioning work, the EinScan Pro HD makes scanning easy, allowing the user to move both the scanner and object during the scanning process without any negative effect on the model’s quality. It also includes lighting projection hardware and software to scan dark and reflective surfaces, typically an area where many scanners struggle.

All this versatility makes the EinScan Pro HD suitable for a wide range of applications including reverse engineering, demanding and low tolerance design, conservation, AR/VR, digital archiving, rapid prototyping, architecture, and much more. For businesses looking for a no-compromises option and with the budget to spare, it’s hard to go wrong with EinScan Pro HD.

EinScan Pro HD

Dynamism here

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8. Scantech 3D iReal M3

• Price: $6,980 – Check here on iReal 3D
• Accuracy: 0.1 mm
• Resolution: 0.1 mm
• Max Field of View: 580 x 550 mm
• Scanning Distance: 280 – 1000 mm
• Scanning Rate: 60 FPS
• Technology: Dual-infrared lasers (parallel laser & structured light)

The iReal M3 is a new professional-grade 3D scanner that uses 2 invisible infrared light sources – parallel laser, and structured light. This allows for fast and accurate data scanning across various applications, whether you’re scanning humans or objects, or whether you’re inside, or outside in natural light.

The iReal M3 balances high-quality scanning at a cost-effective price. Using new scanning modes harnessing 7 infrared parallel laser lines, you can scan dark, shiny, and reflective mechanical parts without needing to treat the surface. 

With a resolution of up to 0.1 mm, the scanner can reconstruct high-precision geometric structures and capture fine details of edges, easily handling scanning tasks for objects over 5cm.

The infrared VCSEL structured light is designed for human body scanning and art, and invokes a wide field of view and flexible working distance. 

Beyond this, you can also do:

• Full body or medium and large-sized object scanning
• Algorithmic optimization on human body scanning
• Invisible-light scanning
• Human hair 3D scanning
• Markers-free scanning for objects featuring continuous, non-repetitive, and richly varied geometric/textural features
• Hybrid alignment modes

Although priced at $6,980, iReal M3 falls roughly in the affordable range and is a versatile tool suited for industrial design, art design, medical design, human body digitization, etc.

9. Shining 3D EinScan SP: Best in the $2,000 Range

• Price: Check latest price at Amazon here / Dynamism here
• Scan range: single scan = 200 x 150 mm, max scan range = 1200mm³
• Accuracy: within 0.05 mm for single shots
• Speed: single shot speed of under 4 seconds

The EinScan SP is a mid-range stationary 3D scanner. It costs more than the EinScan SE, but this comes with better accuracy of up to 0.05 mm (vs the EinScan SE’s 0.1 mm), and scans in half the time (4s vs 8s).

To save you time: it’s double the price, offers double the accuracy, and scans in half the time.

The scanner uses white light scanning technologies to make very accurate scans of objects as small as 30 x 30 x 30 mm. This is ideal for intricate object scanning such as of jewelry and small figurines.

Full objects are typically scanned in less than a minute, and images in less than four seconds.

The 0.05mm scan quality is excellent, and it is competitive with scanner costing far more than the $2,000 price range it sells for. Overall, it’s a great and versatile mid-range professional 3D scanner.

Industrial 3D Scanners ($10,000+)

10. Artec EVA: Powerful Handheld 3D Scanner

• Price: $19,800
• Accuracy: up to 0.1 mm + 0.3mm/m
• Resolution: up to 0.2 mm
• Speed: captures up to 16fps in HD and full-color
• Working distance: 0.4m – 1m

The Artec Eva is one of the world’s most popular industrial 3D scanners. The Eva is a handheld, industrial 3D object scanner, and an excellent solution for medium-sized objects ranging from motorcycle wheels to car exhaust systems, human busts, and facial close-ups.

Light, quick, and versatile, Artec Eva captures precise measurements in high resolution, while structured light scanning technology makes the scanner safe to use in any situation. Even difficult-to-scan surfaces such as black or shiny surfaces are effectively captured by Eva.

Ideal for use in industries including product design, heritage preservation, healthcare, and reverse engineering, this market leader can accurately scan full-color objects at a range of up to 100cm with color and texture, making it a great solution for fast and accurate 3D models.

11. Scantech SIMSCAN: Hand-Sized Portable 3D Scanner

• Accuracy: up to 0.020 mm
• Resolution: up to 0.025 mm
• Scanning area: up to 410 x 400 mm

Scantech’s SIMSCAN consists of two sets of industrial black & white cameras, a laser projector with 30 laser lines, and a set of multifunctional buttons. Its high-quality components ensure fast and stable 3D scanning.

It features three scanning modes: ultra-fast, hyperfine, and deep hole scanning optimized for different scanning situations. With its intelligent auxiliary lights, it can even scan darkly lit objects.

Powered by a robust algorithm, SIMSCAN’s measurement rate can be up to 2.02 million measurements/s with an accuracy of up to 0.020 mm. It has a field of view of up to 410 x 400 mm.

With a net weight of 570g, SIMSCAN can be among the top list of the most lightweight and portable 3D scanners in the market. It is designed for both beginners and professionals to conduct 3D scanning regardless of ambient conditions. Thanks to its compact size and portability, SIMSCAN enables on-site and efficient 3D scanning, and it suits well for scanning hard-to-reach areas.

Made from aerospace-grade aluminum alloy, Scantech’s SIMSCAN scanner is sturdy and durable and performs well in heat dissipation. Its material ensures a prolonged use of the 3D scanner. With an anti-slip shell and a hand strap, you can orient this scanner in any way you choose to suit your 3D scanning needs.

12. Scantech KSCAN-Magic: Industrial Handheld 3D Scanner

• Resolution: 0.010 mm
• Scanning rate: 1,350,000 measurements/second
• Scanning area: 1440 x 860 mm

The software will take time to get used to.

Esteemed 3D scanner company Scantech have announced the launch of their latest KSCAN 3D scanner, with 5 five different modes for all types of scanning. These include a large area scanning mode, fast scanning mode, photogrammetry, as well as a fine scanning mode. Featuring both infrared lasers and blue laser technologies allows the KSCAN-Magic to accomplish a wide range of scanning functions effectively.

It scans accurately, quickly, can handle small and large objects, and is designed to accelerate time-to-market. The 41 equipped laser lines can handle an incredible 1.35 million measurements per second, creating detailed scans in record time.

If you are looking for leading-edge 3D solutions for your business, KSCAN definitely surpasses expectations with its resourcefulness and precision.

Buyer’s Guide – Factors To Consider When Buying A 3D Scanner

• Budget: 3D scanners cost from $300 to over $100,000. Entry-level scanners cost less than $1,000, but more robust machines for professional scanning sell for $5,000 and up. For more information, read our article on how much 3D scanners cost.
• Speed: 3D scanners record speed in points per second or frames per second (FPS). If you’re buying a professional 3D scanner, where productivity is critical, we recommend frame rates of around 20 FPS or higher.
• Resolution and Accuracy: For a budget 3D scanner, 0.1-0.2 mm is a solid reference point, while much more expensive industry scanners can reach accuracies of 0.009 mm. Though similar to accuracy, resolution refers to the smallest possible distance between points on a 3D scan.
• Use case: If you’re just looking to 3D scan objects to 3D print fun projects at home, you’ll just need an entry-level 3D scanner. If you want to scan larger models such as people, rooms, or other large objects, we recommend a handheld 3D scanner with a larger max scan volume. For small objects or jewelry scanning, pick a very accurate stationary 3D scanner, ideally with a turntable, tripod, and an optimized alignment algorithm.

Types of 3D Scanners

The main types of 3D scanners include:

• Laser triangulation 3D scanners
• Structured light 3D scanning
• Photogrammetry
• LIDAR (time-of-flight)
• Metrology 3D scanners
• Intraoral 3D scanners for dentistry
• 3D body scanners

The two most-used technologies are structured light scanning and laser triangulation.

Structured Light Scanning

Structured light scanning is often used in handheld 3D scanners. It works by projecting a pattern of light onto an object. This pattern is typically captured by two cameras positioned on either side of the light projector. These cameras record how the light pattern deforms when it strikes the surface of the object.

The key to structured light scanning lies in the measurement of these deformations. By analyzing the light pattern from multiple angles, and triangulating data points across the different images taken by each camera, you can precisely calculate the object’s dimensions at every point within their field of view.

This method is particularly valued for its portability and accuracy, making it a popular choice in various applications. For example, in dentistry, structured light scanning is used to create detailed models of patients’ mouths for the production of dental implants and other prosthetics.

The technique has also found use in fields beyond healthcare. Architects and historians use structured light scanning to create digital archives of historical monuments, and space exploration agencies like NASA use it for mapping terrains of other planets for interplanetary research.

However, structured light scanning does have its limitations, particularly in its sensitivity to ambient lighting conditions. Since it relies on projecting and measuring light patterns, external light sources can affect the accuracy of the scan. This makes it less effective in outdoor environments, or other settings where the lighting conditions can vary.

Laser Triangulation

Laser triangulation involves projecting a laser beam onto an object’s surface and then using sensors to detect the reflected light from the laser. These sensors are positioned at a known angle and distance from the laser source and detect the light reflected.

When the laser light reflects off the object, the sensors capture the reflection at a specific angle. The scanner then determines the distance between the scanner and various points on the object’s surface using trigonometry. This data is then used to reconstruct the 3D shape of the object, including textures and surface features.

However, there are some limitations to laser triangulation. Laser scanners can struggle with shiny or reflective surfaces, as they can scatter or reflect the laser beam in unpredictable ways, leading to inaccuracies in the data. Transparent materials also create issues because they do not reflect the laser light effectively, making it difficult to capture accurate measurements.

For these reasons, laser triangulation is often less accurate and does not offer as high resolution as structured light scanning. Structured light scanning also generally scans objects with less noise (unwanted extras in the scan).

LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging) 3D Scanning:

LiDAR technology is used in advanced applications, and the latest iPhone 15 Pro and 15 Pro Max include LiDAR sensors. It works by emitting laser beams towards an object or surface and then measuring the time it takes for each beam to bounce back to the sensor. 

This time measurement, combined with the speed of light, lets the LiDAR system calculate the distance to various points on the object or surface, which is used to create the point cloud for a 3D model.

LiDAR is particularly effective for capturing large-scale environments. It’s widely used for topographical mapping, forestry, and urban planning, as well as in autonomous vehicle technology for real-time navigation and obstacle detection.

Time of Flight (ToF) 3D Scanning:

Time of Flight (sometimes called ToF) 3D scanning is a broader category that includes LiDAR, but also encompasses other 3D scanning technologies. 

While LiDAR is specifically emitting lasers, ToF scanners can use various kinds of light sources and are not limited to lasers. 

Handheld 3D Scanners

Portable and versatile by design, handheld scanners allow you to efficiently and freely scan large objects, narrow spaces, or all the details of a human subject, for example.

Stationary 3D Scanners

Fixed scanners are a solid option if you plan to scan small objects and want the device to do most of the heavy lifting. They generally come with a stand or tripod and turntable. Automated scanning is also typically part of the deal here, with different modes of alignment to choose from.

3D Body Scanners

3D body scanners are specialized devices designed to capture a complete 3D representation of the human body. They’re used in various fields, such as:

• Health and Fitness: 3D body scanners are used for body shape analysis, posture assessment, and tracking changes in the body over time.
• Fashion and Apparel: These scanners are used in custom clothing design, ensuring a perfect fit by capturing accurate body measurements.
• Entertainment and Animation: 3D body scanners are used to create lifelike digital doubles for use in movies, video games, and VR.

These scanners work by using different scanning technologies, such as structured light scanning, laser scanning, or photogrammetry, to capture the shape and size of the body from multiple angles. The data collected is then processed to create a detailed 3D model of the body.

What’s Changed?

The first edition of our best 3D scanner buyer’s guide was published back in 2018. Since then, we’ve kept this article updated for over 5 years with our latest recommendations.

In November 2023 we overhauled this article with the following changes:

• We replaced the Revopoint POP 2 with the POP 3. However, we still recommend the POP 2 as a budget option.
• We removed the SOL 3D scanner, and EinScan SE. The Einstar, and the Revopoint POP 3, perform most of their uses but at a cheaper price.
• Removed the BQ Ciclop. It’s been a great run for this DIY 3D scanner, but over the last 5 years it has become outdated.
• Added the Creality CR-Scan Ferret. It’s a great super cheap 3D scanner under $350.
• Added the Shining 3D Einstar. It’s one of the best 3D scanners under $1,000 and a top pick for us.
• Replaced the Shining 3D EinScan Pro 2X with the newer EinScan Pro HD

Jan 2024 updates:

• We updated pricing information across the site now in 2024.

The best resin 3D printer right now is the Anycubic Mono M5s.

The Mono M5s has top-tier 12K resolutions and prints fast at 70mm/hr even without high-speed resin, beating out everything in its price range.

But, if you’re on a tight budget, I recommend the Anycubic Mono 2 instead at the most affordable resin printer. It’s under $200, still has a decent 4K LCD, and produces prints with 34-micron XY resolutions.

The best large-format resin printer is still the Photon M3 Max. It’s under $1,000, yet still offers huge 298 x 164 x 300 mm print areas for batch-printing dozens of miniatures at once, or for printing larger resin prototypes.

Best Budget Pick	Best Overall	Best large-format
Anycubic Photon Mono 2	Anycubic Photon Mono M5s	ANYCUBIC Photon M3 Max Resin 3D Printer, 13.6“ 7K UV LCD
3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:
Primary Rating: 4.3	Primary Rating: 4.7	Primary Rating: 4.5
$149.00	$449.00	$959.99
Build Volume: 165 x 89 x 143 mm	Build Volume: 200 x 218 x 123 mm	Build Volume: 298 x 164 x 300 mm
LCD Resolution: 4K	LCD Resolution: 12K	LCD Resolution: 7K
XY Resolution: 34 microns	XY Resolution: 19 x 24 microns	XY Resolution: 46 microns
Printing Speed: 50 mm/h	Printing Speed: 70 mm/h or 105 mm/h	Printing Speed: 60 mm/h
Anycubic here	Anycubic here	Anycubic here
	Amazon here	Amazon here

Best Budget Pick

Anycubic Photon Mono 2

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.3

$149.00

Build Volume:

165 x 89 x 143 mm

LCD Resolution:

4K

XY Resolution:

34 microns

Printing Speed:

50 mm/h

Anycubic here

Best Overall

Anycubic Photon Mono M5s

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.7

$449.00

Build Volume:

200 x 218 x 123 mm

LCD Resolution:

12K

XY Resolution:

19 x 24 microns

Printing Speed:

70 mm/h or 105 mm/h

Anycubic here

Amazon here

Best large-format

ANYCUBIC Photon M3 Max Resin 3D Printer, 13.6“ 7K UV LCD

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.5

$959.99

Build Volume:

298 x 164 x 300 mm

LCD Resolution:

7K

XY Resolution:

46 microns

Printing Speed:

60 mm/h

Anycubic here

Amazon here