Quick Overview

Here are the main types of FDM 3D printers, and the main differences between them:

1. Cartesian 3D printers: The most common and reliable type, using X, Y, and Z coordinates to move the print head or bed. Good for print quality and flexible filaments.
2. Delta 3D printers: A faster and taller type, using a circular print bed and a triangular print head that can move in any direction. Good for speed and large parts.
3. CoreXY 3D printers: A much faster version of standard Cartesian builds using belts and pulleys with the two X and Y motors working together.
4. Polar 3D printers: A more efficient and compact type, using a polar coordinate system and a circular print bed that rotates and lifts. Good for saving space and energy.
5. Belt 3D printers: Use a conveyor belt to offer unlimited-length 3D printing.
6. Scara 3D printers: Use a robotic arm that can print in any direction and location, mostly used for complex geometries and industrial projects like concrete house building.

1. Cartesian 3D Printers

Cartesian 3D printers, named after the Cartesian coordinate system they use, are the most common FDM printer type. They operate by moving the print head or bed along the X, Y, and Z axes to deposit the plastic filament.

Usually, the print head moves on the X- and Y-axes, whilst the print head or bed moves up and down on the Z-axis. Some 3D printers move the extruder up and down for each layer, whereas some Cartesian 3D printers have the print bed move up and down instead.

They are simple, reliable and can be easily disassembled and upgraded, leading to a number of excellent 3D printer kits being developed, such as the popular Ender 3 range, as well as kits by Prusa, Anycubic, Sovol, and Elegoo. Prosumer 3D printer companies have also built Cartesian FDM 3D printers, including UltiMaker, Raise3D, Intamsys, Markforged, Voron, Bambu Labs, and many more. 

Notable Printers

• Creality Ender 3
• Anycubic Kobra
• UltiMaker S3
• Raise3D Pro3 Plus
• Prusa MK4

Advantages

• Simplicity and Reliability: Cartesian 3D printers have a straightforward design, making them reliable and easy to use, especially for beginners.
• Wide Availability of Parts and Knowledge: Given their popularity, there is a wealth of knowledge, community support, and readily available parts for Cartesian printers.
• Consistent Print Quality: These printers generally provide consistent print quality across the entire build area due to the uniform movement on the X, Y, and Z axes.
• Versatility in Material Use: Cartesian printers are capable of printing with a wide range of materials, including flexible filaments, due to their stable extruder design.

Disadvantages

• Limited Print Speed: Unless they have a CoreXY system, they’re slower to print than Delta printers, due to the weight of the moving parts, especially on the X and Y axes. When operating at higher speeds, Cartesian printers can also suffer from vibrations due to the heavier print head or bed.
• Larger Footprint: The rectangular or square frame of Cartesian printers can take up more space compared to more compact designs like Polar or Delta printers.
• Potential for Reduced Accuracy Over Time: The belts and linear bearings in Cartesian printers can wear over time, potentially reducing accuracy if not properly maintained.

2. Delta FDM 3D printers

Delta 3D printers have a circular print bed with a 3D printer extruder featuring three fixed triangular points. Each of these three points can move both upwards and downwards within the cylinder print structure, to place the print head where it needs to be to print.

The main reason to use a Delta 3D printer is speed. They can 3D print much faster than most Cartesian printers (except newer CoreXY variants, which we’ll cover further in this article).

The major difference between Delta and Cartesian printers is where they can print compared to where the print bed is. For example, in a Cartesian 3D printer each part can only move in one direction — a certain distance down each axis. However, within a Delta 3D printer, the print head is more flexible and can move in any direction. 

Delta printers are generally slim and tall, making them useful for some architectural prints, and tall figurines. 

However, they can lose accuracy towards the edges of the print area, and Cartesian printers are considered slightly more accurate and stable. Because Delta printers use a bowden extruder, they’re considered worse for printing flexibles like TPU.

Notable Printers:

• Flsun Super Racer
• Flsun V400
• WASP Delta 2040 Pro

Advantages

• Speed: Delta printers are known for their high speed, capable of moving and printing faster than most Cartesian printers.
• Height Advantage: With their tall and slim design, Delta printers can handle taller prints, which is beneficial for specific applications like architectural models or tall figurines. They’re also generally good for handling larger parts for use in prototyping and art installations. 

Disadvantages

• Complex Calibration: Setting up and calibrating a Delta printer can be more complex than with Cartesian printers.
• Accuracy Issues at Edges: While Delta printers are generally accurate, they can lose some precision towards the edges of the print area, which could be a concern for projects requiring uniform precision.
• Flexibility Limitations: The use of a bowden extruder in many Delta printers makes them less ideal for printing with flexible materials like TPU compared to direct drive systems.

3. CoreXY 3D Printers

CoreXY 3D printers use a belt-driven control system to precisely move the print head or build plate along the X and Y axes. They’ve been around since 2012, but only recently came to dominate desktop 3D printing with the releases of Bambu Labs 3D printers, and the Creality K1.

Unlike traditional Cartesian systems where each motor is responsible for moving one axis independently, CoreXY employs two motors working together to control both the X and Y axes simultaneously.

These two motors are mounted at different locations, typically at opposite corners of the 3D printer frame. These motors are connected via a system of belts and pulleys to the moving parts of the printer. The belts allow for precise and synchronized movement, maintaining print quality at faster print speeds.

This YouTube video from Vector 3D demonstrates CoreXY motion using two pieces of paper and a real CoreXY printer:

Notable 3D Printers:

• Creality K1
• Qidi Tech X-Plus 3
• Tronxy X5SA
• Voron 3D printer range

You can read more about these in our guide to the top CoreXY printers available.

Advantages

• High Speeds: CoreXY systems can achieve faster print speeds due to the coordinated movement of two motors, reducing the overall weight of the moving components. Quicker directional changes also lead to smoother printing.
• Precision and Accuracy: The precise control over the print head or build plate that the synchronized movement of motors in CoreXY systems leads to improved print accuracy and quality.

Disadvantages

• Complex Design & Maintenance: The CoreXY system involves a more intricate mechanical setup with belts and pulleys, making the printer design more complex compared to some other motion systems. This can make them more difficult to maintain, with more components that need replacing or adjustment.
• Calibration Challenges: Achieving optimal performance requires precise calibration of the belts and motors, which can be challenging for beginners.
• Cost: CoreXY 3D printers can be more expensive due to the additional hardware and components required for the dual-motor, synchronized movement system.

4. Polar 3D Printers

Polar 3D printers use a polar coordinate system, where the print head moves in a radial and angular direction, rather than the linear motion used in Cartesian systems.

In a polar system, every other point on the print bed is determined by its position compared to the central point in the middle of the print bed. Each point is not a nominal place, but is relative to this central point. Polar 3D printers use circular print beds that rotate and lift up and down.

Polar 3D, a polar 3D printer that debuted at CES a few years back.

Polar 3D printers require just two motors to print, working with just angle and length in calculating print areas, whereas Cartesian and Delta printers typically require 3 motors to power each axis. Because Polar printers are simpler, with fewer moving parts, this can lead to lower maintenance.

Notable Printers

• Polar 3D
• Sculpto PRO2

Advantages

• Compact: The unique L-shaped design of Polar 3D printers offers a compact footprint, making them ideal for limited spaces.
• Fewer Moving Parts: With typically just two motors needed, Polar 3D printers have fewer moving parts compared to Cartesian and Delta printers. This can result in less wear and tear and lower maintenance needs.
• Ideal for Certain Shapes and Designs: The polar coordinate system is especially efficient for certain designs, like circular or radial parts, allowing for smooth and continuous printing without the stop-and-start movements common in other FDM printer types.

Disadvantages

• Limited Build Volume: The circular print bed restricts the build volume to its diameter, which can be a limitation for projects requiring larger, square printing areas.
• Varying Print Speed and Quality: The print quality can vary at different points on the print bed due to changes in the extruder’s speed, potentially affecting the consistency of prints.

5. Belt 3D Printers

Belt 3D printers, also known as continuous or infinite 3D printers, use a conveyor belt or continuous motion system instead of having a static build platform. 

They use a moving belt to continuously feed the printed object away from the print head. This allows for the printing of objects with unlimited lengths, or the continuous production of multiple objects. 

Belt 3D printers print at an angle, allowing you to print overhangs greater than 45°, which traditional FDM printers are limited to. This is because the belt keeps moving during printing while the print head is angled at 45°, allowing it to add steep layers diagonally. However, these overhangs have to be in the direction of the Y-axis. 

Notable 3D Printers:

• Creality CR-30 3DPrintMill
• PowerBelt3D

For a full list of these belt printers, I recommend reading our full round-up of the top belt 3D printers.

Advantages:

• Continuous Printing: Belt 3D printers enable continuous printing of objects with unlimited lengths, at least in theory. They have a detachable bracket that extends outside the build, preventing a long print from falling off the printer during printing. This makes them suitable for creating long objects such as swords for cosplays. 
• Batch Printing: The continuous motion system allows for the simultaneous printing of multiple objects on the same belt, without needing to keep removing prints from the print bed to start the next project.
• Reduced Need for Supports: Objects with overhangs and complex geometries may benefit, reducing the need for supports compared to traditional FDM printing.

Disadvantages:

• Limited Z-Axis Resolution: Belt 3D printers aren’t ideal for high prints on the Z-axis, but this can be overcome by printing the object on its side to take advantage of the unlimited-length printing.
• Material Compatibility: The belt material affects compatible filaments you can print with, as not all filaments will adhere to the belt material.
• Complex Mechanics: The more complex continuous motion system makes these printers more challenging to build and maintain, and the slicers are different.

6. SCARA / Robotic Arm 3D Printer

SCARA 3D printers (Selective Compliance Assembly Robotic Arm) use a robotic arm to 3D print. 

Most Scara 3D printer applications are in the 3D printing of houses and other industrial projects. This is because for printing huge structures, like houses, you need to be able to move the house 3D printer to the location. 

Cartesian and delta 3D printers have structures around them, making them more difficult to transport, robotic arm printers are not fixed to a print plate, and therefore are more versatile and mobile. This also makes it easier to print geometrically complex parts with Scara printers, as they move in the most similar way to human hands.

Notable 3D Printers:

• RepRap Morgan
• Dobot 3D printer
• Most construction house-building 3D printers, such as those by Apis Cor

Advantages

• High Precision and Flexibility: SCARA robotic arms offer a greater range of motion compared to traditional 3D printers, making them ideal for complex geometries and intricate designs.
• Efficient for Large-Scale Projects: These printers excel in large-scale projects, such as building components or large sculptures. Their mobility and ability to print at various angles make them suitable for projects that are beyond the capability of stationary printers.
• Can Use in Different Print Environments: SCARA printers can operate in various environments and on different scales, from small, detailed items to large construction projects.

Disadvantages

• High Cost: SCARA 3D printers are generally more expensive than other types of FDM printers.
• Complex Operation and Maintenance: Operating and maintaining a robotic arm printer requires significant technical expertise. These printers often require more space due to their size and the range of motion of the robotic arm.
• Limited to Specific Applications: While excellent for certain tasks, SCARA printers are not as versatile for general 3D printing needs.

If you’re still not completely sure, we have a bunch of other great guides and rankings to help you choose, including:

• Every different type of 3D printer
• Best FDM 3D printer
• Best dual extruder 3D printer
• Our favorite 3D printers overall.
• The best online 3D printing services

3DSourced is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more

1. In 1984, Bill Masters patented the first 3D printer. 
2. 3D printing is one of the most disruptive technologies and is estimated to lead the 4th industrial revolution. [4]
3. The global 3D printing market size was valued at USD 16.75 billion in 2022 and is projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 23.3% from 2023 to 2030. [6]
4. Modern 3D printers cost between $200 and $10,000 depending on the quality and requirements. [8]

Stats About the History of 3D Printing

For its relatively short history, 3D printing has garnered some impressive feats. It seemed almost immediately in its young life it began revolutionizing the medical field, with prosthetics and organ transplants receiving the brunt of the attention. 

But it wasn’t until 2009 that it started transforming into the consumer product we see today.

5. In 1974, David Jones published the first 3D printing concept. [7]
6. Dr. Hideo Kodama developed the first 3D printing experiments in the 1980s. It used a photosensitive resin that was polymerized by a UV light. [1]
7. The first bladder was successfully printed in 1999. 
8. The first kidney was printed in 2022. 
9.  ZCorp launched the Spectrum Z510 in 2005, which was the first high-definition color 3D printer. [1]
10. The first 3D-printed prosthetic limb was created in 2008. [1]
11. The FDM patent landed in the public domain in 2009, leading to an innovative wave of 3D printers and increased access to desktop 3D printers. This sparked the consumer 3D market. [1]
12. In the 2010s, manufacturers started to create metal end-use parts with 3D printing. [7]
13. In 2014, Manos M. Tentzeris and Benjamin S. Cook created a method to use 3D printing to make complex electronics. [7]

3D Printing Use Cases & Users

Who is using 3D printing and how are they using it? Companies (and now everyday people) for endless reasons. Let’s break it down. 

14. Desktop 3D printers are increasingly used for domestic and household purposes [6]
15. Healthcare’s 3D printing market size was valued at $1,036.58 million in 2020 and is predicted to reach $5,846.74 million by 2030 at a registered CAGR of 20.10%.  [13]
16. Schools, universities, and educational institutes are also leveraging desktop 3D printers for training and research. 
17. The 3D-printed prosthetics, orthotics, and audiology market will gain $509 million in revenue by 2026 and grow to $996 million by 2030. [14]
18. Adidas has developed 3D-printed midsoles for its new 4DFWD shoes. [12]

14. Small businesses are beginning to offer 3D printing services to meet customer needs. 
15. Prototyping was the most common 3D printing application in 2022, accounting for over 54% of global revenue. [6]
16. Accounting for 23% of global revenue share in 2022, the automotive segment led the market in 2022. 
17. With over 33% of revenue share, North America led the market in 2022. 

Hardware Industry Facts & Stats

Hardware is the biggest sector of the 3D printing market. It includes applications (prototyping and functional parts), vertices (specific industries), and materials used for printing. Here’s what you need to know: 

Compared to other industries – like the drone industry– 3D printing boasts relatively high CAGR percentages and has expected revenue operating in the billions over the next few years.

23. Prototyping is the top hardware application market segment, capturing over 55% of revenue worldwide in 2020. 
24. The functional parts segment of the application market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 21.5% from 2021 to 2028, along with an increased demand for designing and building functional parts. [6]
25. The automotive vertical holds the largest share of the industrial 3D printing market accounting for over 23% of the segment’s global revenue. [6]

3D Printing Cost & ROI

Let’s face it, a 3D printer and materials are going to cost a bit more than your standard inkjet and paper. But you may be surprised by how much money this technology can save companies as well. 

26. Entry-level printers for beginners can cost between $400 and $1000. [8]
27. $10,000 is the standard cost for an industrial printer. [8]
28. By using 3D printing for titanium parts, Boeing saved $3 million. [7] 
29. General Electric predicts they will save up to $5 million over the next decade by changing to 3D printing for manufacturing.  [7]
30. In less than 4 months, The Center for Advanced Design achieved an ROI on a Stratasys F370 3D printer. [9]

3D Printing Materials

Early 3D printers used only plastics, but now they can use many different materials, expanding their capabilities. 

31. In 2022, metal was the largest material segment for 3D printing, accounting for 52% of global revenue. [6]
32. The fastest-growing materials in 3D printing are metals and metal alloys. This segment is expected to grow by over 28.2% between now and 2030.  [6]
33. Polymer had the second-largest share of revenue in 2022. [6]
34. Ceramic is a newer material segment, but it’s expected to grow rapidly at a high CAGR of over 25% over the forecast period. [6] 
35. Discrete manufacturing is the top industry for 3D printing. [3]

Technology and Software

Moving forward, streamlining user-friendliness and ready-made part designs will be paramount to the growth of 3D printing software. 

36. Stereolithography (one of the oldest printing techniques) was the largest segment in the market, capturing over 10% of global revenue in 2022. [6]
37. The design software segment accounted for 36.7% of global revenue, making it the largest software segment. [6]
38. Scanning software demand is predicted to grow due to a demand to store scanned images of objects to use when needed. 
39. Between 2023 and 2030, scanning software is expected to have the highest CAGR of 24%. [6] 
40. Hardware is predicted to continue holding the largest revenue share, but software is expected to have the fastest CAGR over the next several years. [6]
41. The market for on-demand parts services and CAD software is expected to triple by 2026. [4]

3D Printing Devices

Who’s making 3D printers? HP and GE have the most additive printing patents, but here’s what you need to know:

42. By 2030, there are expected to be 2.8 million additive manufacturing and 3D printing devices worldwide. 
43. In 2022, GE had the most 3D printing patents in the United States. [5]
44. The top 5 leading 3D printing companies are AutoDesk, HP Inc., 3D Systems, Desktop Metal, and Proto Labs.
45. The world’s largest 3D printer manufacturer is AutoDesk, with a market capitalization of $68.22 billion. [10]
46. After going public in December 2020, Desktop Metal’s market capitalization exceeded $7.5 billion in 2021, and received $575 million as part of a merger with special acquisitions company Trine Acquisition Corp.

3D Market Size & Growth 

3D printing has already made its mark, and the future looks bright. Here’s a breakdown of the market:

47. Between 2018 and 2026, the market for 3D printing materials is expected to grow by 12 percent annually to reach just under four billion U.S. dollars by 2026. [3]
48. The 3D printing market is expected to grow by nearly 24% between 2020 and 2026. [4]
49. By 2026, the global 3D printing market is expected to reach $37.2 billion dollars. [4]
50. Hardware (including applications, materials, and vertices) is the leads global 3D printing market share. [6]
51. In 2022, the industrial printer segment led the market, accounting for over 76% of global revenue because of the adoption of industrial 3D printers in the electronics, healthcare, automotive, and aerospace industries. [6]

Market Outlook for 3D Printing

According to Forbes, the future of 3D printing lies heavily in prototyping for both desktop and industrial printers. 

It seems 3D printers are on the last stretch of the home run as the industry works towards developing this technology to satisfy diverse needs. 

52. Over the next decade, we expect the majority of manufacturing spending to shift to functional end-use parts as the technology becomes more affordable and widely adopted.  [15]
53. We expect to see additive manufacturing playing a bigger role in sustainability and conservation efforts as 3D printing has proven to reduce waste and energy consumption. [16]
54. 3D printing will adopt the use of more specialized materials to meet the criteria in specialized fields. [16]
55. The next frontier of 3D printing will be to move from small models and fixtures to functional end-use parts in mass production.  [6]

Since the beginning, additive manufacturing has pushed the limits on creativity and production, and now it promises to do the same on a larger scale.

For 3D printing to achieve the monumental tasks ahead, speed and design capabilities need to be at the forefront of manufacturers’ goals to accommodate the growing need for this technology.

Sources:

[1] https://www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/basics-of-3d-printing/the-history-of-3d-printing/ 

[2] https://cloudtweaks.com/2015/03/3d-printing-history-organs/ 

[3] https://www.statista.com/statistics/590113/worldwide-market-for-3d-printing/

[4] https://www.statista.com/topics/1969/additive-manufacturing-and-3d-printing/#topicOverview 

[5] https://www.statista.com/statistics/315386/global-market-for-3d-printers/ 

[6] https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/3d-printing-industry-analysis 

[7] https://facts.net/3d-printing-facts/

[8] https://www.3dsourced.com/3d-printers/how-much-does-a-3d-printer-cost-price/#h-3d-printer-price-guide 

[9]https://www.stratasys.com/contentassets/1bcbb899100b4f0db586d1daa9489f27/stratasys-case-study-cad-oct19.pdf?v=48fa53 

[10] https://investingnews.com/daily/tech-investing/emerging-tech-investing/top-3d-printing-companies/ 

[11] https://wohlersassociates.com/press-releases/new-wohlers-report-2021-finds-7-5-growth-in-additive/ 

[12] https://news.adidas.com/running/4dfwd–data-driven-3d-printed-performance-technology-designed-to-move-you-forward/s/514baddb-1029-4686-abd5-5ee3985a304a 

[13] https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/3d-printing-healthcare-market 

[14] https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2021/07/06/2258303/0/en/Revenues-from-3D-Printed-Prosthetics-Orthotics-and-Audiology-to-Reach-Almost-1-Billion-by-2030-According-to-New-SmarTech-Report.html 

[15] https://www.designnews.com/automation/predictions-future-3d-printing 

[16] https://www.jabil.com/blog/future-of-3d-printing-additive-manufacturing-looks-bright.html

Thingiverse is probably the most well-known 3D printing file repository, featuring an easy-to-use search engine, a large number of free projects and files, and a useful set of filters to find what you’re looking for. 

For example, searching  “vintage Star Wars” turns up four pages of results – more than any other.

However…

Reasons NOT To Use Thingiverse

Thingiverse has suffered a large number of setbacks recently. The most obvious change even to a relative beginner is that the combined zip file downloads, once a boon for complicated projects listed on the site, no longer function. Repeated data breaches have made it clear to most that Thingiverse is not exactly safe.

Some creators are pulling files from the Thingiverse due to its unsafe image. This leaves users in the unfortunate position of being aware a file was there once, but is no longer present. A frustrating situation at best.

As well as these security issues, Thingiverse is known for being slow – largely due to having so many ads. Even with a good ad blocker, you’ll have trouble navigating the site as it loads background ads before showing you the file you want to see.

While Thingiverse has become popular being the largest site with 100% free files, this comes with a number of caveats. They often still lack commercial restrictions, particularly for anything that might be used in any commercial capacity.

Fortunately, there are several alternative sites with hundreds of thousands of 3D files – depending on what you are looking for.

A Thingiverse Alternative Needs:

• A large assortment of available project files.
• A large selection of free files.
• A functional and fairly easy-to-use search function.
• A straightforward functionality that doesn’t hide the files or function.
• The ability for creators to include recommendations about printing their files.
• Files available in STL, OBJ, or other 3D printing compatible formats.

This last is arguably the most flexible, as programs like Spin3D and GreenToken allow users to convert between file types with what is usually high accuracy. Still, for those without an understanding of file conversion, the right file type is a necessity.

1. MyMiniFactory

• Free or Paid: Paid
• Mandatory Signup: Yes

MyMiniFactory has a variety of files, although with a main focus on gaming miniatures.

For gaming miniatures, and even other types of miniatures, MyMiniFactory is second to none. Featuring not only a variety of creators, but batch purchases and crowdfunding-style campaigns, there are myriad options for miniature 28mm enthusiasts. 

These paid options include a large number of available files and projects like articulated animals and recognizable figures from popular franchises like Magic: The Gathering and Final Fantasy.

MyMiniFactory mainly deals in miniatures for gaming, and while there are exceptions, they are few and far between.

There are also promoted premium files for sale. These promoted results include some nice items, but may not work for you if you’re only looking for free 3D printing files.

2. Cults3D

• Free or Paid: Both
• Mandatory Signup: Yes

Cults by contrast to some options like MyMiniFactory has a much wider assortment of material with less of a focus on miniatures.

Cults requires a login for downloads, and as a result age limitation on accounts is little problem, as it does host NSFW content (this can be toggled off if you’d prefer to steer clear of such models, or are planning on perusing the site with your kids).

That being said, Cults3D has a much wider variety of projects on offer than MyMiniFactory, with prints ranging from this Aku Aku bust to the ever-popular low-poly fox. You can even use Cults to find seasonal decorations for your home or garden.

While some might bristle at the added step, in the process Cults manages to save all downloads previously selected on an account.

3. Printables.com

• Free or Paid: Free
• Mandatory Signup: No

Printables.com is run by PRUSA, makers of some of the most popular DIY 3D printer kits of all time. The search interface is someone unusual in structure – the most noticeable difference, although not in itself a bad thing, is including a list of users with names relating to your search at the end.

Printables is similar to Thingiverse in that all files found on it are free, and there are a lot to choose from, like action figures, practical prints, and even wearables items like jewelry. And because Prusa themselves sell 3D printers, they have no need for the obnoxious ads that plague Thingiverse users.

There is an unusual similarity to Thingiverse at its prime, namely that Printables.com allows one to pick individual files from a set, as well as having a download option for the entirety of each project. This is wonderful for those who want a particular miniature out of a set, a single upgrade part for a game or machine, or single variation among a selection of STL files.

4. CGTrader

• Free or Paid: Paid
• Mandatory Signup: No

CGTrader is well known in amateur animation circles, but is also useful for makers interested in 3D printing. Available file formats are listed clearly, making it much easier for someone to confirm their slicer software is compatible, as not all files on this site are specifically designed with 3D printing in mind.

The search functionality includes the ability to filter by file type, and license – useful to anyone worried about commercial applications or getting caught up with IP issues, so we recommend you take a look at the licensing rules and laws for each model before committing to downloading it. Furthermore, the detailed and active comment sections are a wonderful addition, usually including fantastic tips on any difficulties one might run into with a file. The files are generally of very high quality, like this cat model and this spacecraft.

5. TurboSquid

• Free or Paid: Paid
• Mandatory Signup: Yes

Turbosquid makes itself user-friendly right from the front page. In addition to the search panel, several nice icons indicate the ability to check for various types of 3D file, from those commonly used for printing to those designed to work with various animation and game engines.

It is worth noting that many of the files are not cheap, some costing hundreds of dollars. This wolf, for example, is just shy of $1,000, but this collection of standard people figures is only $72. 

This is because it is a broad site with many different files available. This can range from items for use by hobbyists and amateurs, all the way to detailed files designed for use in high-budget projects.

6. PinShape

• Free or Paid: Free
• Available Files: 70,000+
• Mandatory Signup: Yes

Pinshape is a smaller name in the 3D file repository game, but one with clear structural similarities to the bigger players. Pinshape has a nice search function, and makes it easy to filter to only view free files with a couple of clicks or swipes. It didn’t take long for me to find the excellent and free lightsaber model and this sound box, for example.

Pinshape specializes in STL files intended for 3D printing, unlike many services. For those uncomfortable with file conversion, or simply unsure about compatibility for those models intended originally for another purpose, that will be greatly appreciated. 

Pinshape has a smaller library than most, so more specific searches will yield few if any results, so it’s better used for general 3D printing project ideas if you don’t have anything particular in mind.

7. Thangs.com

• Free or Paid: Both
• Mandatory Signup: Yes

Thangs.com is a relatively new and curious case. In addition to being a search engine for multiple different 3D printing and 3D file sites, it also hosts many files itself. 

The search provides a wide variety of results, whether used to find files directly uploaded to the site, or on any of the others that can be checked – although the results are occasionally rather broad in interpretation. As with most such sites, there are nice toggles to choose from if one wants to see only free or also paid options, giving an easy way to handle the matter. There are a lot of files to chose from like Christmas Baby Yoda, cosplay Pikachu, and this adorable German shepherd wall art.

8. YouMagine

• Free or Paid: Free
• Available Files: 20,000+
• Mandatory Signup: No

YouMagine is an entirely open-source library where creators are urged to share their imaginative designs with fellow designers free of charge. While you have the option to sign up, there’s no obligation to, and you’re even encouraged to review the various files and prints to help your fellow 3D printing enthusiasts learn and grow.
YouMagine is designed for any 3D printer user of any experience level, featuring complex car designs and creative home decor to name just a couple. If you’re new to 3D printing, you can peruse their quick prints collections like this one, designed for newcomers who are looking for an easy learning curve.

9. GrabCAD

• Free or Paid: Free
• Available Files: 5 million+
• Mandatory Signup: No

GrabCAD is a community-driven space for engineers and other 3D modeling professionals to share and update their designs with colleagues and like-minded creators. With plentiful news updates and challenges with actual awards and prizes, they encourage active participation while not strictly forcing you to create an account.

The community is one of the largest on the net, with over 12 million members and an impossibly large library of files to choose from, model boats and plane files can be found alongside animal puzzles, so there should be something for everyone.

Just be warned that, while GrabCAD does offer tutorials and help to newcomers, it’s not a place for the uninitiated, so it’s mainly only worth a look if you’re a professional (or at least experienced) in 3D modeling.

10. Zortrax

• Free or Paid: Free
• Available Files: 100+
• Mandatory Signup: No

Zortrax is less a dedicated library for CAD files and more a 3D printer and 3D printing services company. Though their relatively small library is still worth a look for anyone looking to cut their teeth in 3D printing with useful prints like filament holders or more fun projects like South Park characters or this adorable Ferris wheel.

Zortrax offers a variety of services, software, and hardware alongside their collection of free CAD files, so it’s a good first stop for anyone looking to get an idea of what they can expect from 3D printing, as well as get some novel ideas for what to print first or next.

11. Yeggi

• Free or Paid: Both
• Mandatory Signup: No

Yeggi is my personal favorite and go-to when writing project articles. It is not a library in and of itself, but rather a collection of STL files from all over the internet from trustworthy and notable sites like Cults3D, Gambody, CGTrader, MyMiniFactory, Printables, and – of course – Thingiverse just to name a few.

This means that the quality and price of each model varies depending on the designer and platform, though if you’re looking for a wealth of different models, files, and ideas with a simple click of the search bar, then Yeggi is the jack-of-all-trades site for you.

12. 3DExport

• Free or Paid: Paid
• Available Files: 273,000+
• Mandatory Signup: Yes

3DExport is a great place to find 3D models, but it’s worth noting that not all of them are designed for 3D printing. Like CGTrader, 3DExport specializes in putting up 3D models for sale for a variety of uses, including animation, videogame design, and interior decoration blueprinting alongside 3D printing.

You will either have to make sure the model you are about to buy is optimized for 3D printing by coming in a usable file for your slicer software, or ensure you have the know-how and resources to reformat them yourself.

If You’re Looking For Specific 3D Files

• 3D printed toys
• 3D printed anime figures
• 3D printed Pokemon STL files
• 3D printed dragon files
• 3D printable Warhammer 40K files
• 3D print D&D STL files
• 3D printable useful tools
• 50+ coolest STL files you can 3D print overall

Other related articles:

• Best Free 3D Printer Models on Thingiverse
• Best Sites To Download STL Files & 3D Printer Models
• Best Free Blender Models

The answer is not really. While every 3D printer produces fumes that aren’t good for your lungs and body, the amount of these air-born contaminants is far too low to harm you most of the time.

However, you shouldn’t leave your health up to chance, so it’s still a good idea to ventilate your 3D printer. Ventilating a 3D printer involves enclosing it and adding an air vent, air filter, or air purifier to ensure none of the fumes end up in your lungs.

Of course, you can ventilate your 3D printer in a few ways, from using a HEPA filter to installing a vent tube to a window. In this article, we’ll go over all of the best ways you can ventilate your enclosed 3D printer, along with a ton of other information concerning the safety of 3D printing.

What Type of Fumes Does a 3D Printer Emit?

The majority of the “fumes” that a 3D printer emits fall into either:

1. Ultrafine particles
2. Volatile organic compounds (VOCs)

1. Ultrafine Particles

Ultrafine particles are tiny physical particles that float around in the air after being released as a byproduct of the 3D printer melting filament material or curing resin. Typical 3D printer ultrafine particles are smaller than 0.1 microns – for reference, a single spot of dust is 25 microns.

Despite their small size, ultrafine particles can be very dangerous, and can cause irritation and inflammation in your lungs, as well as other health problems.

2. VOCs

Volatile organic compounds, known as VOCs, are organic chemicals that have a high vapor pressure, and can easily turn into a gas or vapor to turn airborne. VOCs are what can make 3D printers smell and, if you noticed actual fumes coming from your 3D printer, it probably was a collection of VOCs in the air.

Just like ultrafine particles, VOCs are tiny, and are typically released when your 3D printer heats filament (or resin). When the nozzle melts the plastic, it releases various gases (VOCs in airborne form).

Examples of the specific VOCs released into the air from a 3D printer include benzene, acrolein, formaldehyde, and many others.

It is important to recognize that these VOCs can cause health issues. Long-term exposure to high levels of VOCs can cause headaches, dizziness, and irritation to the eyes, nose, and throat.

It’s also worth noting that different 3D printing technologies and materials have varying levels of VOC emissions. For example, FDM 3D printing tends to emit more VOCs than resin 3D printing. PLA also releases fewer VOCs than ABS, mostly because ABS requires higher print temperatures.

With all of this in mind, it’s important that you properly ventilate your 3D printer and avoid the risks, even if they are small.

Risks and Effects from Poorly Ventilated 3D Printer

So what happens if you don’t ventilate your 3D printer and you simply inhale all of the fumes it produces? 

Realistically, nothing.

If you’re a healthy human with a functional respiratory system, then it’s very unlikely that occasionally inhaling low levels of toxic fumes from a 3D printer will cause any long-term health problems. For most people, the worst thing that can happen from not ventilating their 3D printer is a headache every now and then.

However, researchers from the EPA and the Georgia Institute of Technology have found that 3D printers can produce some more dangerous airborne contaminants that have been linked to severe, long-term health problems, like organ damage and lung cancer.

As such, it’s better to be safe than sorry, and take the time to properly ventilate your 3D printer. 

How to Properly Ventilate Your 3D Printer

To ensure that your 3D printer is properly ventilated, first, make sure the machine is in an enclosure. Then, consider adding an air vent or an air filter to the enclosure so that any fumes from the machine are moved outside or absorbed properly.

Here’s my six recommendations more detail:

1. Use an enclosure

Firstly, you should make sure you have an enclosure for your 3D printer.

An enclosure encompasses your 3D printer, helping to trap heat around the build area, while also preventing air drafts from ruining your prints. Enclosures enable you to print high-temperature filament materials, like ABS and ASA, while also improving the overall quality of your prints (regardless of material).

On top of the printing benefits, enclosures also help prevent harmful fumes from entering your lungs. While enclosures don’t rid an area of airborne contaminants, it traps them in a contained space so they don’t travel to every nook and cranny of your house or workspace.

There are many great options for 3D printer enclosures, including both DIY projects and purchasable products. We have an in-depth article all about the best 3D printer enclosures which I recommend reading, as well as our article on the best enclosed 3D printers.

2. Add a vent to the enclosure

Once you have an enclosure, I strongly recommend adding a 3D printer vent to the inside of the chamber. One side of the vent should be connected to the inside of your (sealed) 3D printer enclosure, while the other side should connect either to a purification system or an outdoor window.

By making a DIY 3D printer ventilation system, you’re allowing the air inside the enclosure to flow out, so there will be a constant circulation of fresh, uncontaminated air. Adding a low-power fan to the vent is also a good idea, so you can circulate the air after every print.

3. Place your printer in a well-ventilated room

Of course, even the best 3D printer enclosure might still leak some fumes. Placing your printer (and its enclosure) in a well-ventilated room ensures that any leftover fumes are cleared out quickly, reducing the amount of contaminants that enter your lungs.

So how can you achieve proper ventilation in a room? Well, the easiest way is simply to turn on the air conditioning and leave the door open.

However, to be even safer, you can purchase a standalone air purifier device and leave it running in whatever room you’ve placed your printer. I’ll recommend some air purifiers later in this article.

4. Use an air filter

Air filters are stationary sponge-like devices, made up of layers of special fibers that absorb airborne contaminants so you don’t breathe them in.

There are a handful of different types of air filters, but for 3D printers, the two best types are HEPA filters and activated carbon filters. HEPA filters are great at removing ultrafine particles from the air, while carbon-activated filters work their magic on VOCs.

It’s important to note that, while using only one type of filter will still help, the best way to reduce health risks is to use both HEPA and carbon-activated filters.

As for where to put them, anywhere inside your 3D printer’s enclosure is a good spot. Just make sure it doesn’t interfere with the machine’s moving parts!

5. Use materials that produce less fumes

Another thing you can do to limit your 3D printer’s toxic emissions is to select your filament material (or resin material) wisely, as different filaments emit different levels of fumes.

For example, PLA plastic emits significantly lower levels of toxic fumes when melted than ABS, hence the noticeable smell when printing ABS filament. For more information, you can read our guide to the best PLA filaments.

6. Use protective equipment

Lastly, if you’re really adamant about avoiding inhaling toxic fumes, then you can also use protective equipment, such as a filtered air mask. Of course, you could use a disposable COVID mask, but a reusable mask, equipped with air filters, is a better option. You can find one of these types of masks at basically any hardware store or online.

Compared to the other solutions listed, using personal protective equipment is a bit of a hassle. But, if you get headaches around your 3D printer, this can help a lot.

Use These Air Purifiers To Prevent Toxic 3D Printer Fumes

Air purifiers, not to be confused with an air filter, actively purify the air in a room. Air purifiers are a good way to ensure that, even if some toxic fumes leak out of your printer’s enclosure, you can still safely live and breathe in whatever room you’ve placed your printer.

Here’s two I recommend:

Levoit LV-H133 Air Purifier

Levoit’s LV-H133 Air Purifier is a household air purifier perfect for removing your 3D printer’s emissions from the air.

Equipped with a built-in HEPA filter, the LV-H133 will remove any ultrafine particles from the air. There are two other filters inside the purifier, including an activated carbon filter (for the VOCs) and a nylon filter for any other contaminants.

While the Levoit LV-H133 is a bit pricy, costing just over $200, it’s super reliable and fast. Levoit claims the LV-H133 clears out ~99.7% of the contaminants in the air within 30 minutes.

So, if you’re committed to ensuring that no one in your household is breathing in bad air, I strongly recommend the Levoit LV-H133. Its three filters are more than capable of handling the emissions from multiple 3D printers, and it’s super fast.

Blueair’s Blue Pure 211+

The Blue Pure 211+ is another terrific air purifier that’s more than capable of handling a 3D printer’s emissions. It’s a bit more expensive than the Levoit LV-H133, but it has some additional features that make the higher price tag worth it.

It’s very quiet, with a maximum noise level of just 35 dB, so it will be like a faint whisper even when it’s working its hardest.

On another note, the Blue Pure 211+ has multiple filters built-in. On top of its special HEPA filter which removes ultrafine particles from the air, the Blue Pure 211+ has pre-filters that can handle VOCs and pollen.

So, if you want the purest, cleanest air in your 3D printer workspace, check out Blueair’s Blue Pure 211+.

FAQs:

There’s a huge difference in pricing between 3D scanners, which is affected by factors including:

1. Size and complexity of the object you want to scan
2. The scanner type and technology
3. 3D scan quality (accuracy, resolution)
4. Time the project takes (for renting a 3D scanner)
5. The ability to 3D scan in color
6. Shipping costs
7. Software and post-processing

Fortunately, there are scanners for all budgets and applications, and we’ll explain in more detail what specs and uses you can expect in each price range.

Here’s How Much Each Type of 3D Scanner Costs

To better understand the cost associated with 3D scanners, we’re diving into the different types of 3D scanners you can buy.

Entry-Level 3D Scanners: Under $1,000

3D scanners priced under $1,000 are considered entry-level and are aimed at hobbyists and small businesses with modest needs.

Though we have a dedicated guide to the best cheap 3D scanners, here are some of the top-rated scanners in this price range:

These low-cost scanners work well for applications like 3D printing, basic digital archiving, product modeling for e-commerce, basic design work, and simple AR/VR. They rarely capture with accuracy below 0.1 mm, limiting the detail level they can reproduce in scan results. This limits their applications beyond hobbyist fun projects.

They are by no means geared to professional or industrial applications like reverse engineering, that demand uncompromising dimensional accuracy and scan quality.

For the lower price, you also sacrifice usability. While professional-grade scanners allow you to scan an entire object with a single press of a button, scanning with low-cost models is time-consuming, and scan times tend to be much longer due to slower capture speeds, which rarely go higher than 30 FPS.

That said, for under $1,000, you can still expect features like full-color scanning, robust post-processing software, handheld/static scan modes, anti-shake technology to improve scan quality, and Wi-Fi 6 connectivity to speed up data transfer speeds after scanning an object.

We cover a number of scanners in this price range in our top 3D scanners buying guide.

You can even use your phone as a 3D scanner. Even more basic Android models and older iPhones can use photogrammetry 3D scanning apps to create 3D models, and the newer iPhones have LiDAR sensors for better quality 3D scanning. However, these are still not as high quality as specialist 3D laser scanners.

Handheld 3D Scanners: $2,000 to $30,000

Handheld 3D scanners are designed for portability and mobility – without sacrificing quality. Prices for professional handheld 3D scanners range anywhere from $2,000 to $30,000. Many jewelry scanners also fall into this category.

Typically, handheld and professional 3D scanners are used for reverse engineering, conservation work, digital archiving, jewelry design and repair, floor plans, interior design, and product design in the automotive and aerospace fields.

Professional scanners offer much better accuracy than lower-cost options. Expect around 0.5 mm as standard, dropping as low as 0.04 mm for the pricier options. With this level of detail, you can capture the intricacies of both large and small objects, such as engine parts, intricate jewelry, and subtle facial details. They also excel in use cases like inspection and quality control.

Here’s a selection of the most popular handheld 3D scanners on the market:

Industrial 3D Scanners: $10,000+

Industrial 3D scanners are top-of-the-range scanners that cost upwards of $10,000. 

Due to their price, industrial scanners are typically reserved for larger businesses specializing in specific fields where extreme accuracies and tight tolerances are essential. These include:

• Reverse engineering
• Product design
• Architecture
• Rapid prototyping
• CGI, and AR/VR
• Scientific measurements
• Automobile and aerospace applications

These commercial 3D scanners have the highest accuracy, resolution, and resolution. Expect an accuracy below as low as (or even lower than) 0.009 mm, which will bring out the smallest surface details with almost flawless dimensional accuracy.

Many also offer larger maximum scan volumes for car, human body, and room scanning. Most also come with commercial software that improves workflow and makes scanning easy, while offering various advanced options to refine and export 3D models.

Here’s a selection of the most popular industrial 3D scanners on the market today:

3D Scanning Service Costs – To Rent

3D scanner services cost anywhere from around $200 for a simple scan of a small object, up to more than $2,000 for large, complex objects. Per-hour costs fall roughly around $150-200/hour in the majority of cases. 

However, these are ballpark figures and prices can vary greatly depending on several factors. For this reason, most 3D scanning services will offer you a specific price based on the project, rather than set pricing.

Here are the factors that affect the cost of 3D scanning:

1. Size and complexity of the object

Larger objects typically take longer to scan than smaller ones, which costs more. 3D scans are made using individually captured frames that are then stitched together to create a finished model. Larger objects involve more frames and time to capture.

However, the complexity of the object also affects the price. For example, an ornate heirloom ring with intricate details, edges, gaps, and a reflective surface will take longer to scan (around 20-30 minutes) than a large object with flat, featureless surfaces like a hammer or wrench (5-10 minutes). 

It’s not just the scanning time that affects cost, either. It will also take longer to process and post-process the ring 3D model, which adds to the cost.

2. Time the project takes

Because 3D scanning services typically work on an hourly basis, projects that require more hours to complete will cost more than fast scans. 

For example, if you’re scanning an entire house for a real estate listing, expect to pay upwards of $3,000, while if you want to scan a single part, for example a radiator grill, budget for between $500 to $800.

3. Color scanning

A full-color scan with texture and surface details typically adds to the overall price. Color is generally needed for applications like digital media, e-commerce, VR/AR, and game design. 

The extra cost comes from the extra time needed to set up suitable lighting for the scanning process and the more demanding post-processing of scan data.

4. Shipping costs

It’s important to factor in the cost of sending an object to the service if you cannot deliver it in person. 

Larger objects incur higher shipping fees, as do multi-object projects. For example, shipping a 50lb object in an extra large box with Fedex from New York to Boston costs around $200.

5. Software, post-processing, and additional services

Though some services will give customers the raw scan data, most factor software and post-processing into their costs to finish the 3D model. 

Many also offer additional services such as CAD modeling, color texturing, and texture mapping, which add to the cost. Expect to pay an additional $100-$200 for these, though the complexity and size of the part factor here as well.

6. Scanner type, quality, and resolution

The better quality and more expensive the scanner costs, the more expensive the service will be. Pricier scanners offer better dimensional accuracy and precision, so you get what you pay for.

A hobbyist using a budget scanner like the CR-Scan Ferret may charge $15 per object, while an established service running a Artec Micro II may charge $300 for the same scan.

7. Service fees

3D scanning costs are also affected by what we’ll call “service fees,” which include:

• Manual labor costs
• The expertise of the operator and the cost put into their training
• Maintenance and running costs, such as repairs, utility costs, unforeseen issues, and the depreciation of the 3D scanner

Should You Buy Or Rent a 3D Scanner?

Given the cost of hiring a 3D scanning service, there is a point where it becomes more cost-effective to buy one outright. You need to evaluate how often you need to use the 3D scanner, and how complex the objects are, to gauge whether it’s better value to rent or buy.

For example, if you were to scan two fairly large and complex car parts a week at $800 each, this would cost $1,600 per week, or $6,400 a month. 

If you were to buy an industrial-grade scanner like the Einscan Pro HD for $5,000, you’d recoup the cost in less than a month. If you opted for a more precise model like the Artec Eva for $16,000, you would pay off the cost in less than three months.

Of course, this requires the skill to operate the 3D scanner (or training costs to gain this expertise). It’s hard to pin an exact number on these, but setting aside $500 a month for repairs is sensible. The scanner will also depreciate and lose value over time, but overall, for heavy users even with these costs factored in, buying a 3D scanner is cheaper than renting.

If you need to scan lots of objects within a short period of time, and then have months where you don’t need to scan at all, renting a 3D scanner is better. For example, Artec offers a rental service, which costs roughly $300 a day for the Artec Eva.

If you’re looking to buy a 3D scanner, I recommend reading our reviews and recommendations. We’ve broken these down into different categories:

• The best professional and industrial 3D scanners
• The best lower-cost 3D scanners

Bigger 3D printers require more space to fit them, while different projects will require different filaments, resins, paints, or tools that need to be kept handy. Entry-level 3D printers often weigh from 8kg to 18kg, so a workbench needs to comfortably hold this plus any accessories.

How To Pick

We recommend desks that:

• Stable and sturdy: The table needs to be sturdy and strong enough not only to comfortably hold your 3D printer and any tools you have on it but also to prevent the vibrations from affecting print quality.
• Big enough: IKEA Lack tables look great and they’re cheap, but they’re barely big enough to hold a 3D printer with any kind of enclosure, so we recommend going bigger if you have the budget. You want a table big enough to place any accessories, filament storage boxes, desktop storage for resin, gloves, scrapers and other tools, etc.
• Easy to keep clean: Wood surfaces are easy to clean, and don’t get hot during printing. 

I personally do not recommend wheeled 3D printer tables. Lots of people recommend them, but I’m personally nervous about weak brakes, so I avoid them for hot, electric things like 3D printers. They can also be less stable, and you don’t want anything that could affect your print’s surface finish.

The Best 3D Printer Tables in 2024 – Reviews

1. Olympia Hardwood Workbench

• Price: Check on Amazon here

Not just one of the strongest affordable benches out there, the Olympia hardwood workbench is also one of the best-looking.

If you like to show off your workstation, then this hardwood desk is definitely something to add to your cart. As well as being very nice to look at, the Olympia works very well as a 3D printer table.

Sturdy enough to hold several times what the average 3D printer weighs, and with enough desktop space to keep any peripheral tools or resins within a safe distance, the Olympia is an ideal 3D printer stand.

Hardwood is also famously easy to clean, so it’s easy to keep dust-free. And for under $200, it’s definitely worth adding to your wish list at least.

2. Heavy Duty Foldable Workbench

• Price: Check on Amazon here

While the foldable nature of this heavy-duty 3D printer workbench isn’t useful for the not-so-portable machines that are 3D printers — it’s the sturdiness that really counts here.

With a pedal lock on the bottom of the legs, this workbench is a great 3D printer table as it’s more vibration-resistant and stable than many others.

In addition, it comes with a pegboard for handy access to scrapers and other tools without risking leaving them around and cluttering up your space or, worse, getting lost.

3. Repurposed Home Office Computer Desk

• Price: Check on Amazon here

Sometimes simplicity is key. Bells and whistles can make for confusing spaces, and while drawers and pegboards do come in handy, sometimes you just want a strong surface to use as a 3D printer stand.

Despite being designed for computers, this home office desk is an easy-to-assemble steel frame that’s deep enough to comfortably fit most 3D printers and still leave enough space for extra tools, gloves, and other pieces.

The extra space can also be used for the desk’s original purpose; a computer to plug directly into your printer.

The lack of drawers does limit storage somewhat, but the wide space below is perfect for storing boxes of filament.

If built-in storage is a must for your 3D printer table, however, there’s also this computer desk with shelves on which you can keep resins and tools. Available in a variety of sizes, you can choose which version of this table suits your 3D printer and/or your available space.

4. IKEA Lack Tables (Only if on a STRICT budget!!)

3D printers and super cheap IKEA lack tables can actually go together really well. They’re compact, extremely cheap (around $15 each), and if you have a standard 220 x 220 x 250 mm 3D printer like a Kobra, Ender 3, or Aquila, it’ll fit snugly.

So, if you’re like me and don’t have a lot of spare space, IKEA Lack tables are a super useful table to house your smaller 3D printers.

But… and here’s the big BUT.

They are basically just glue and sawdust- they are NOT strong like a professional workbench.

It’s also not big enough for any serious enclosures, so you’re limited there. It also does not keep out vibrations like other printers do, which will affect your 3D print quality.

And with the latest 3D printers like the Ankermake M5C and Anycubic Kobra 2 reaching such fast speeds now, you’ll feel these vibration issues more than ever.

While some don’t think the vibrations are an issue (for example, this Redditor ran experiments on vibrations from an IKEA Lack table on a CR-10), this doesn’t necessarily mean it doesn’t affect print quality.

If you’re using a Lack, I highly recommend 3D printing some angular brackets for the corners – even if you don’t think it helps with print quality, it’ll help with the noise. And the vibrations can be very noisy.

So, it’s a good stopgap if you’re on a limited budget and need something small. But, if you can afford to get a proper workbench to house your 3D printers and other tools, then I highly recommend buying one of those instead.

Other Things To Keep In Mind

When working with materials like resin, it may be tempting to keep your 3D printer stand covered at least partially in towel or cloth, but this will increase the risk of fires should anything go wrong. Let’s face it, any workstation is going to get stained eventually.

Even if you have a 3D printer with an enclosure, the space around it still needs to be clean to ensure proper ventilation and cleaner air around your workspace. Dust gets kicked up easily as it is without a working machine in the mix.

If you’re directly connecting your 3D printer to your computer, installing hooks under the table to hold the wires will both clean up your workspace and reduce the risk of tripping.

Filament and material storage is also good. If you have your 3D printer in a cool and dry place – like a garage – then it’s handy to have a 3D printer stand or desk with enough space to store your filaments makes for a more efficient workspace.

For other tools that can come in handy, read our guide to 3D printer accessories

Key Takeaways

• Cost Comparison: 3D printing miniatures is cheaper than buying them, saving up to $14.80 per mini.
• Quality Comparison: Resin printers produce high-detail and precision minis, while FDM printers are better for terrain and props.
• Break-even Point: Depending on the printer and the mini, you can start saving money after printing 15 to 488 minis.
• Optional Extras: You may need to consider the cost of cleaning and curing stations, primer, paint, and other supplies.

Nowadays, even $200 3D printers produce quality miniatures, an intriguing proposition for tabletop gamers and D&D fans wanting to expand their collection from the comfort of their own homes. 

But does 3D printing miniatures work out cheaper than buying them at retail?

In this article, I’ll cover the exact cost to 3D print a miniature, factoring in the price of the printer, filament or resin, and electricity to determine an average cost per model.

Then, use our calculator further down in this article to calculate how many minis you’d need to 3D print to make back the investment in a 3D printer based on the number of minis you plan to 3D print.

Then, you’ll know exactly whether 3D printing minis is cheaper for you, or whether you’re better off just buying minis at retail price.

Our findings present exact figures and cost comparisons – for those wondering whether it’s worth buying a 3D printing, FDM or resin, to print miniatures.

And if you’re looking to buy a 3D printer to print minis, we have thoroughly evaluated all of the top picks in our guide to buying a 3D printer for D&D/Warhammer miniatures and terrain.

Is It Cheaper To 3D Print Miniatures?

Yes, it is cheaper to 3D print a model of a miniature than to pay the retail price in a store.

An officially licensed, unpainted, and unassembled Warhammer, D&D, or other popular franchise mini generally costs $10 to $15. 3D printing an equivalent miniature can cost as little as $0.20.

That’s almost 100x cheaper than buying them.

You can buy off-brand bulk packs of miniatures for as low as $40 for around 70 pieces, which works out to around $0.60 per mini, but printing them yourself still comes out cheaper.

These off-brand bulk packs also tend to contain low-quality models with fewer details than if you were to 3D print them yourself at home. So you can actually improve quality by 3D printing them.

How Much Does it Cost To 3D Print a Miniature?

The average cost to 3D print a 28mm miniature is around $0.20 with FDM, and around $0.27 with resin.

We created this calculation estimate based on the cost of resin or filament, electricity cost, and factoring in a small extra charge to account for any failed prints.

Several factors can affect the cost of 3D printing minis – the size of the mini, the cost of resin/filament, the cost of electricity, and wasted resin/filament from inevitable failed prints. 

This cost estimate is based on an average-sized 28 mm mini, using mid-range filament or resin and typical 3D printing kWH electricity costs.

Here’s how the cost to 3D print a miniature breaks down first for an FDM printer and second for a resin printer:

Resin miniature 3D printing cost:

FDM miniature cost:

We have also written a more in-depth article explaining the differences and benefits of resin vs FDM in 3D printing miniatures.

Optional Extra Costs

Beyond this, there are also optional extras that add to the overall cost of 3D printing minis. 

Here’s a quick breakdown:

• Clean and curing station (for example, Elegoo Mercury X): $170
• Isopropyl alcohol 1 liter bottle: $10
• Pack of Nitrile Gloves: $5-$10
• Resin Funnel Kit: $6-$7
• Miniature starter paint kit with an assortment of colors: $25-$30
• Primer 60ml: $8-$10

A wash and cure machine saves time, though you can do this by hand with Isopropyl alcohol and natural sunlight for cheap. Also add the cost of primer and paint.

Remember: FDM 3D printing only requires the 3D printer, filament, and possibly a few tools, most of which are bundled with the printer.

The mileage you get out of paint and primer depends on many factors, so it’s difficult to provide a per mini cost. Though, since most purchased miniatures ship unpainted, you’d have to spend this regardless.

So, is 3D Printing Miniatures Worth it?

3D printing miniatures is indeed worth it for the cost saving compared to buying miniatures. The per mini cost is between $0.20 to $0.27, which compared with $15 store-bought minis, only takes 15 printed miniatures to earn back the price of a $210 desktop resin printer.

Even 3D printing a 95 mm (or 3.75’’) figurine only costs around $0.70 with an FDM printer, while a resin printer pushes costs up to a slightly higher $0.90 per figurine.

For a more precise answer for whether it’s worth it for you, I’ve built you a calculator to work out your exact payback period.

Just put in your resin 3D printer cost, the approximate cost of resin, and how much the equivalent minis would be to purchase, and it’ll tell you exactly how many minis you’d need to 3D print to break even on the printer purchase price:

There are additional costs involved in processing printed miniatures such as cleaning and curing, but over the long run the savings speak for themself.

The elephant is the room is, of course, the initial cost of the printer itself. An entry-level resin or FDM printer costs $200 to $300.

Miniature 3D Print Savings on a Resin 3D Printer

Let’s calculate the payback period for a resin printer, like the budget-conscious Elegoo Mars 3, priced at $210. 

Based on an estimated $0.27 to print each miniature, it would take this many miniatures to break even on the $210 purchase price:

• $15 official licensed mini price: 15 miniatures to break even
• $0.60 bulk-buy non-branded mini price: 488 minis to break even

So, yes, it’s definitely worth buying a resin 3D printer if you plan to print more than 15 miniatures and typically pay the high branded price. I recommend reading our guide to the best resin 3D printers for our latest recommendations.

Another benefit of printing minis with resin printers is the high-detail, precision results, which are close to the quality you get with injection-modeled official miniatures.

A 1L bottle of resin can print around 250 28mm miniatures, so you won’t run out any time soon.

Miniature 3D Print Savings on an FDM 3D Printer

Let’s run the same test on an FDM printer.

If you buy for example a $210 Anycubic Kobra 2, you can print a miniature for $0.20 a 28 mm piece, factoring in filament, electricity, and other variables. 

That means a saving of $14.80 per miniature, so once you print your 15th miniature, you are already saving money.

These numbers can vary, especially if you’re used to buying bulk, non-official miniatures, which can cost as little as $0.60. In that case, you’ll start saving after you’ve produced 488 miniatures.

For more information on getting the best quality miniatures with an FDM printer, I recommend you read my in-depth guide to 3D printing miniatures with an FDM 3D printer.

But…Are 3D Printed Miniatures Good Quality?

When talking about the quality of 3D printed miniatures, we have to draw a clear line between FDM and resin printers.

Resin printed miniatures have better details, better overall finish, and better quality features. Especially on the latest 8K and 12K printers like the Mars 4 range and Anycubic Photon M5 range.

Resin miniatures are competitive with injection molded official miniatures. You’d need a magnifying glass to a mini to notice any real difference between the two.

As for FDM printers, there’s a drop in overall quality and precision compared to store-bought pieces. FDM printed miniatures may not suit you if you want the best quality results. 

That said, if you’re just looking to pump out batches of minis on the cheap for your weekly tabletop session, or want to give a starter set of minis to a younger sibling, the quality is decent, especially with low layer heights and lower print speeds.

However, remember: FDM printers are better than resin printers for 3D printing terrain for your miniatures and Warhammer models. The large build volumes allow you to create large backdrops, props, and such than on resin printers.

If you liked this, here’s some more miniatures articles you’ll enjoy:

• The best 3D printers for miniatures
• Best Resins for Miniatures
• FDM vs Resin printers for miniature 3D printing
• How to Design and 3D Print Miniatures
• Can you sell 3D printed miniatures legally? We investigated
• Is 3D printing miniatures cheaper than buying? We calculated every detail
• The best resin 3D printers for all prices
• Best Large Resin 3D Printers For All Budgets
• Ranking The Strongest 3D Printer Resins

Key Takeaways

• Depends on usage: More printing hours and larger prints use up resin faster.
• Average estimate: at 6.7 ml resin used per hour a 1L bottle will last 149 hours per liter, which is around 3-4 months for the average user.
• What can you print? 830 small miniatures, 30 keychains, 645 towns, 66 chess pieces, or 12 figurines.
• Tips to conserve resin: Optimize supports, drip excess resin, filter used resin, and hollow out models.

You may be confused: how many miniatures, or larger resin prints, can you get out of a bottle of resin?

Well, it depends.

But, I’ve created a calculator to help you estimate, and I’ve also gotten a fairly accurate estimate by averaging out a number of sample resin models and how much resin they used per hour, to help you estimate how many prints you’ll get.

This article helps you calculate exactly how long a 500ml, 1L, and 2L resin bottle will last, exactly how many of each type of resin print you’ll get, and some tips and tricks to make your resin bottles last longer.

How Long Does 1 Liter of Resin Last?

Based on an average resin STL printer usage of 6.7 ml per hour, a 1 liter bottle of resin will last a little over 149 hours, or just under a week of continuous use.

For an average user printing 10 hours a week, a 1 liter bottle of resin could last up to 15 weeks, or 3-4 months. 

If you want a more precise estimate, you can use our calculator below. Just add your estimated print time per week, your bottle size, and your amount of resin used per hour:

• A 1-liter bottle of resin will last around 149 hours, so if you use your 3D printer for 4 hours per week, this will last around 37 weeks, or 8-9 months.
• A 2-liter bottle will last 298 hours or just under 2 weeks of continuous usage, 6-8 months at 10 hours per week, and 16-18 months at 4 hours per week. 
• As for a 500 ml bottle of resin, these fall to 74.5 continuous hours (or roughly 3 days), 1-2 months at 10 hours per week, and 4-5 months at 4 hours per week.

However, this depends largely on how often the 3D printer is used, what’s being printed, the size of the prints, and the settings dialed into during the printing process. 

Furthermore, resin printing is different to FDM printing in that it cures entire layers at a time. So, for example, batch printing 15 minis consuming 18 ml overall (1.20ml each) takes as long as printing a single one of the same mini. This drastically increases the resin used, but maximizes print time so you end up with more of the finished product.

Nevertheless, an average gives a good idea of how far you can stretch a single 1 liter bottle of resin.

To obtain an average of 6.7 ml per hour, we fired up several popular prints in Lychee Slicer to get their estimated resin consumption and print time using default, standard settings:

Taking the average ml/hour of all five models gives us 6.7 ml/hour.

Again, this is a generalization, and only a broad estimate. 

Your resin consumption will likely change depending on the printer mode, settings like resolution and print speed, how many errors and failed prints you may have to tackle. 

But, based on these estimates, you would use up the following amounts of resin over time:

• 1 hour of printing uses 6.7 ml on average.
• 10 hours of uninterrupted printing uses 67 ml on average.
• 24 hours of uninterrupted printing uses 160.8 ml on average.
• 100 hours of uninterrupted printing uses 670 ml on average.
• 1 week of uninterrupted printing uses 1125.6 ml on average.

Taking all this into account, a 1-liter bottle of resin will last you anywhere from a week to 9 months, depending on the size of the prints, frequency of printing, and settings. 

Larger prints, such as large figurines, and batch prints, will consume far more ml/hour than smaller prints like individual miniatures.

How Much Can You Print With 1 L of Resin

Using 5 example resin STL files found online, you can print the between 12 of the largest model, to 830 of the smallest resin models:

With 1L of resin, you can print roughly 830 miniatures (if we take the Triarii mini mentioned above as a reference, using approx 1.2ml resin), 30 Death Trooper keychains, 645 AmeraLabs calibration towns, 66 chess bishop pieces, or 12 large Ranni figurines.

Generally, you will more likely get 150-250 28mm miniatures from a liter of resin, as this miniature we used for the example is probably smaller than average.

It’s important also to allow some leeway for errors caused by adhesion issues, poor slicing, and other issues that cause failed prints. As such, we recommend being conservative with your estimates.

Taking a different perspective, a single 1L bottle of resin can give you around 149 hours of uninterrupted printing, barring no print failures, spills, or otherwise wasted resin. 

A 500 ml bottle of resin will last roughly 74 hours of consistent printing, while a 2 l bottle pushes this up to just shy of 300 hours. 

It’s crucial to stress that these figures aren’t set in stone – usage will vary quite considerably depending on the printer, settings, print speed, and whether you’re using supports. However, it gives us a general idea of what to expect from a 1L, 500 ml, and 2L bottle of resin.

Factors That Affect How Long 3D Printer Resin Lasts

1. Optimize Supports
2. Let Resin Drip Off the Print/Plate Before Cleaning
3. Filter and Reuse Resin
4. Hollow Prints
5. Work Slowly and Methodically to Avoid Waste
6. How Much Resin Should I Use for a Print?

Now that we’ve established how much you can theoretically print from a bottle of resin, how do you make resin last longer? 

Here’s some factors you can optimize to get more resin prints out of each bottle.

1. Optimize Supports

Although supports are crucial, you can optimize them to save resin.

Print orientation is one key component of this. Slicing a model upright requires more supports, so try to angle it to only generate supports where needed. 

Many makers swear by a 45° angle for supports, though you may need to experiment to find a balance that saves resin, but retains enough support to prevent failed prints.

2. Let Resin Drip Off the Print/Plate Before Cleaning

With a freshly finished print sitting on the build plate, it can be tempting to scrape it off immediately to clean it in preparation for curing. 

But, it’s worth letting it sit for a few minutes to allow excess resin stuck to the print and plate to drip off back into the vat, then using a silicone spatula to remove as much as you can. 

Though you won’t get a huge amount of resin this way, it adds up over time, especially if you’re a heavy user.

3. Filter and Reuse Resin

After a print is finished and you’re returning used resin to the bottle, run it through a reusable mesh filter (these are cheap and available on sites like Amazon).

Sovol 3D Stainless Steel Funnel, Resin Filter Cup for SLA/DLP/LCD Resin 3D Printer

$7.99

Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

11/16/2025 12:01 pm GMT

These will filter out any residual semi-cured resin that could potentially cause issues when you reuse the resin for your next print. It’s also worth gently scraping the vat film to remove any semi-cured resin. 

As long as the used resin is free of residue, it’s as viable as bottle-fresh resin, so take these small steps to maximize how many prints you get from each bottle.

4. Hollow Prints

Always hollow out your models in your slicing software before printing. The interiors of models don’t need to be 100% filled with resin, especially as most resin prints are decorative.

Doing so will save vast amounts of resin over time. This won’t work for all types of prints, though. 

For smaller models, the savings tend to be minimal, and parts will benefit from the added structural integrity afforded by a filled-out interior, especially if they have thin peripheral walls and shells. In the same vein, it’s worth including holes in your prints to allow excess resin to run out, which, over time, saves resin.

5. Work Slowly and Methodically to Avoid Waste

Resin printing is messy, but you can avoid wasting resin by working slowly and methodically. Much of this comes down to having an appropriate workspace and not rushing through each step of the printing process. 

For example, something very common is to underestimate how fast resin flows, despite its viscosity, which can lead to spillages when you return resin to the bottle or pour it into the vat. The resin lost to overflows and splashes builds up over time, but if avoided, can stretch a 1L bottle of resin quite a bit further.

6. Use The Correct Amount of Resin Per Print

We recommend slicing your model and then checking the estimated resin the model will take to print.

From here, we recommend doubling or even quadrupling that amount to understand how much resin you’ll want to compensate for it moving about and shifting as the plate lifts and lowers. 

It’s always better to use more than not enough. As long as you’re not filling the vat tray to the brim, there’s really no harm to adding too much resin. Any unused resin can be filtered and reused so you’re not wasting any. 

We recommend filling up the vat tank about halfway for smaller prints, and to the maximum limit marked on the inside of the tray for larger prints. If the tank is looking a little empty halfway through a print, you can always pour in more resin.

Related articles:

• Resin vs FDM for 3D printing miniatures
• Best Budget-friendly Large Resin 3D Printers Today!
• Top Rated Water-Washable Resin Brands & Printing Guide
• ABS-Like / Tough Resins: Best Brands Reviewed
• We Reviewed The Best Wash and Cure & Resin Curing Stations In The Market
• Our List of The Top Rated Resin 3D Slicers For SLA, DLP & LCD
• The Top Glues For Resin Models
• How much can you 3D print per kilo of filament?
• Resin prints sticking to FEP instead of build plate: Fixes

As energy prices increase, we’re more conscious than ever of our consumption, with many of us looking for ways to reduce our usage to cut costs.

Considering the hefty price of the 3D printer itself, along with filament and maintenance costs, how much impact does a 3D printer’s energy needs have? How do they compare to your average home appliance in terms of energy consumption?

In this guide, we’ll answer exactly how much electricity 3D printers use, with a calculator to help you work out your yearly bill. We’ll explain these costs in the UK and USA, explain the factors that affect electricity use, and give you tips on how you can reduce your electricity bill 3D printing.

How Much Electricity Does a 3D Printer Use?

A consumer-grade 3D printer uses roughly anywhere from 50 to 150 Watts of power per hour, equating to between 0.05 kWh and 0.15 kWh.

Based on these figures, you’d need to run an average 3D printer for between 7 and 20 hours for 3D printing energy consumption to exceed 1 kWh.

Factors like bed temperature, the size of the printer and build volume, print temperature, number of extruders, ambient room temperature, and even the complexity of the print (from stepper motor activity) affect power consumption.

Electricity usage also varies based on whether the printer is getting up to temperature, is idle, or is in the middle of a print. Depending on these, power consumption can drop as low as a handful of Watts, all the way up to the 3D printer’s rated power/maximum Wattage, for example 400 Watts.

But for popular hobbyist 3D printers like the Ender 3, Anycubic Kobra, or Prusa, 50-150W/hr is a good estimate to use.

How Much Does Electricity Cost to 3D Print?

Electricity costs when 3D printing vary greatly depending on your country and region of residence along.

But here’s some ballpark figures for the US and UK to give you an idea of the electricity costs of running a 3D printer:

USA Electricity 3D Printing Prices

• Average kWH Price – $0.15
• 3D Printer Electricity Usage – 0.05 to 0.15 kWh

You can expect to pay if you were to run the printer uninterrupted:

• Per Hour – $0.007 and $0.02
• Per Day – $0.17 and $0.48
• Per Year – $62.05 and $175.02

UK Electricity 3D Printing Prices

• Average kWH Price – £0.28
• 3D Printer Electricity Usage – 0.05 to 0.15 kWh

You can expect to pay if you were to run the printer uninterrupted:

• Per Hour – £0.01 and £0.04
• Per Day – £0.24 and £0.96
• Per Year – £87.60 and £346.75

These figures don’t take into account the standing charge (roughly £0.71 per day currently in the UK). These figures are also based on the latest reported electricity figures for the USA and UK in 2023.

Are 3D Printers Energy Efficient?

Yes, a typical, consumer-grade 3D printer can be considered energy efficient. When compared to common home appliances, we see how surprisingly little energy 3D printing requires. 

A 3D printer’s electricity consumption is equivalent to a video game console, or high-end TV.

Factors That Affect A 3D Printer’s Energy Consumption

Printer Size

With a larger build volume, a bigger 3D printer requires more powerful stepper motors to move the print head across a larger build volume.

A large bed also requires more power to heat evenly and uniformly (more on that below). These factors are generally reflected in larger 3D printers having a higher maximum wattage.

Heated Bed

Heating the build plate up to temperature significantly spikes energy consumption: this is the most energy-intensive part of the printing process, along with heating the hot end.

Once the heated bed reaches the temperature, it requires less energy to maintain it. However, this also depends on the ambient temperature: a printer sitting in a cold room at the height of winter requires much more power to maintain than on a sunny summer’s day.

Hotend/Print Temperature

Heating the hotend to melt filament accounts for a large portion of a 3D printer’s energy usage. Most of this happens when heating the hot end, with less energy required to maintain the temperature.

Different filament types melt at different temperatures, so less power is required to 3D print PLA, than higher temperature filaments like ABS or Nylon.

Much like the heated bed, energy consumption is also affected by ambient temperatures.

Mainboard, Fans, Stepper Motors, and Display

Vital components on a 3D printer, the mainboard, fans, display, and stepper motor require roughly 30-60 Watts between them.

Compared to the heated and hotend, which cost as much as 300 Watts to heat up, these numbers are small – but do factor into the overall power consumption.

Print Time

The longer a printer runs, the more power it consumes. Factors like print speed, print size, layer height, support structures, and infill density affect print times.

How to Lower a 3D Printer’s Energy Consumption

Lower Print Temperatures

The most energy-intensive part of the printing process is reaching and maintaining the heated bed and hotend temperature. By lowering the temperature, you’ll reduce power consumption. 

While there are limitations to how much you can reduce temperature (go too low and you won’t be able to melt and extrude the filaments, and you’ll suffer adhesion issues), it is possible to tweak temperature lower by a few degrees to improve energy efficiency.

It’s also worth experimenting with the heated bed turned off with PLA, which technically doesn’t need a heated bed to print.

Test printing at the low end of the print temperature range. If you don’t encounter any temperature-linked issues like bed adhesion problems or nozzle clogging, then keeping the temperature low is a great way to save electricity.

Print in High Ambient Temperatures or Use an Enclosure

The ambient temperature affects how much electricity is required to heat the hot end and heated bed, and maintain this.

If possible, use your 3D printer in a warmer space to reduce electricity usage. If that isn’t possible, I recommend buying an enclosure.

Enclosures maintain a stable thermal environment around your print area, requiring less energy to heat and maintain the bed and nozzle. They insulate the printer from the outside temperature and cooling air, and also make it easier to print filaments like ABS that warp easily.

For more on enclosures, including a few thrifty DIY options, check out our dedicated guide.

Shorten Print Times

The less time a 3D printer is running, the lower the energy consumption. As such, reducing and shortening print times is a fantastic way to lower a 3D printer’s energy consumption.

Here’s a quick breakdown of slicer settings that can reduce print times:

• Layer Height
• Infill Density and Pattern
• Print Speed
• Support Structures
• Rafts/Brims/Skirts

There is a point of diminishing returns here: lower these settings too low and the print suffers.

Energy-Efficient Components

It’s also possible to reduce a 3D printer’s energy consumption by upgrading to more energy-efficient components, namely the power supply, fans, mainboard – or buying a more energy-efficient modern 3D printer.

That said, you’ll likely have to use the printer for years before you get a return on your investment, so this only applies to heavy-duty users.

Related posts:

• Are 3D Printers Worth Buying? (Pros & Cons Discussed)
• Best 3 in 1 3D Printers with Laser Engraving & CNC Feature
• Best Large 3D Printers For Every Budget
• Top 3D Printers for Every Price Range
• Sovol SV04 Hands-On Review – Best Low-Cost IDEX 3D Printer?

Key Takeaways

• Average estimate: if using up 7 grams per hour, 1kg lasts approx 140 hours per spool, or 4-5 weeks for average user.
• Example prints: 1kg filament can print 63 Benchies, 4 flower pots, 16 pencil holders, 166 miniatures, or 4 Darth Vader busts.
• Tips to conserve filament: Reduce infill, supports, and print size; buy quality filament; store it properly.

A factory-fresh spool of filament promises possibilities, but eyeing it up doesn’t really give you a sense of how much you can print with 1 kg of filament, or how long it will last. Should you make the most of a multi-spool deal, or settle for one 1KG roll?

As with most things in 3D printing, your mileage will vary – everyone has different printing plans and uses different settings that can affect filament use, like infill density. 

I’ve created a filament calculator in this article, to help you understand how many prints you can get out of a spool of PLA, and how many hours of continuous printing a kilo of filament will get you.

I’ve also estimated filament usage per hour, using a blended average of popular STL files in Cura, and how many of these you can print in an average 1kg spool.

So, whether you’re printing full-sized Master Chief helmets, flower pots, or churning out batches of miniatures for tabletop gaming, this article has you covered.

So, How Long Does a 1kg Spool of Filament Last?

Based on a 3D printer usage of 7 grams of material per hour, a 1 kg spool of filament will last 4.5 weeks if you 3D print for 30 hours per week.

Running the 3D printer 24/7 will use up a 1kg PLA filament spool in 143 hours, or roughly six days. For casual users who only use their 3D printer once a week for five hours, a spool will last 28.5 weeks, or a little over six months.

Here’s a calculator to help you estimate exactly how long your filament will last. Input your filament spool size, how often you 3D print, and the calculator will give you an exact answer:

However, filament usage depends on how much you 3D print, the size of your prints, and your slicer settings like infill density, wall thickness, and print speed. Larger prints like tabletop terrain, cosplay parts, helmets, and large vases also use filament much faster than smaller parts like miniatures and small household items.

To reach our estimate of 7 grams of filament per hour, we took several common 3D print STL files and found their print times and filament use per hour in Cura. We then averaged these results.

Here are the three sample models we used:

This gives us a solid starting point to estimate how much filament is used in 3D printing, and how long a 1 kg roll of filament will last the average user.

From there, we can calculate how long it will take to use up a 1 kg spool of filament:

To summarize, a 1 kg spool of filament can last anywhere from a week to six months, depending on how often you use your 3D printer. 

How Much Can You Print With 1kg filament?

With 1kg of filament, you expect to print roughly 63 3DBenchy test prints of approximately 16g of filament each. Other example models you could print with 1kg filament are 4 large flower pots, 16 pencil holders, around 166 miniatures, or 4 large Darth Vader busts.

However, this doesn’t factor in any failed prints, so you should be conservative with these estimates.

Breaking this down, we can see how this works based on the gram per model consumption established above:

Should you want an estimate more suited to your particular model, settings, and printer, we recommend loading it up in your slicer and slicing the model.

This will give you not just a print time estimate, but also how much filament in grams is required for the print. Though numbers can sometimes be a bit off, they offer a solid estimate to guide you.

Factors That Affect How Long Filament Lasts

1. Supports
2. Skirts/Brims/Rafts
3. Infill Settings
4. Downsize and Print Selectively
5. Filament Quality and Maintenance

1. Supports

Support structures are a vital part of 3D printing, especially when printing ambitious projects with lots of overhangs and rich details. 

However, supports use up filament. The more supports you use, the less mileage you’ll get out of a 1 kg spool of filament. 

The key to mitigating wasted filament is to be economical with supports – only use them where necessary, and angle your prints correctly in your slicer to require the least supports possible.

Manually adding supports where needed generally uses less filament than auto-support wizards and tools found in most slicing software.

2. Skirts/Brims/Rafts

The same applies to skirts, brims, and rafts. They are vital tools for preventing first-layer adhesion issues, but, again, cost filament. 

This isn’t a huge amount generally, but if you’re a heavy user you’ll use quite a bit of filament over time, reducing how many prints you’ll get per 1 kg spool of filament. 

To reduce unnecessary filament waste, cut down on the number of layers, the width, and infill density of brims and rafts, and reduce the number of lines that form a skirt.

3. Infill Settings

Infill settings arguably have one of the biggest impacts on filament consumption. By reducing the infill density percentage, you can significantly increase how many prints you’ll get from a spool of filament. 

While 20% infill is a common standard in most slicer software, for many prints you can get away with lowering this by a few percentage points, even as low as 0-5% for decorative prints that won’t be subject to wear and tear or functional applications.

Similarly, different infill patterns use different amounts of filament and have different advantages. 

If you’re after the most economical patterns, options like Line, Lightning, and Zig Zag tend to use less filament than other patterns. If you’re looking for a balance between material consumption and strength, use infill patterns like Hexagon. 

It’s also worth using settings like gradient infill to instruct the printer to use a higher infill density on the outer edges of the print, while reducing it as it nears the center.

4. Downsize and Print Selectively

Though large prints are certainly impressive, they aren’t always necessary, especially for decorative items. You can conserve filament by downsizing your prints.

Dropping the print size to 80%-90% won’t have a major impact on the part, but saves you lots of filament over time.

In the same vein, be more selective over what you print. All makers are guilty of printing parts and models that end up sitting on a shelf or in a workshop serving no purpose whatsoever. This filament could have been put to better use. 

In that spirit, it’s worth really thinking about whether you need an extra flower… or if you really need a fifth bust dedicated to your favorite blockbuster franchise (yes, you probably do). Cutting back where appropriate can greatly extend the lifespan of a spool of filament.

5. Filament Quality and Maintenance

As tempting as it is to buy the cheapest filament, it often comes with downsides, whether that’s a shoddy formula, poor manufacturing, or an approximate diameter, length, or weight. Not all 1 kg spools actually weigh 1 kg when you receive them… 

In other words, get your money’s worth by spending a little more on better-quality filament. This also reduces failed prints that can happen because of low-quality filament. We personally have a guide to the best PLA filaments, and best filament brands overall.

Another important part of conserving filament is to store and maintain it properly. Almost all filament are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb moisture if left in the open air and deteriorate over time.

To avoid this, we recommend investing in dry boxes or even a filament dryer. These do all the heavy lifting to keep your filament in top condition.

Related articles:

• How much can you print with 1L of resin?
• Complete Guide: Layer Height In 3D Printing
• Best Filament Dryers & Dry Boxes in For All Type of Budgets
• Make Your Own Filament Dry Box: Projects You Can Make at Home
• Top Ways to Recycle Empty Filament Spools
• Increasing Strength While Saving Filament by Using 3D Print Infill Settings
• How-To: Dry Your Wet Filament Effectively