Key Takeaways

• What is infill? Infill is the material that fills the interior of a 3D printed object, providing strength, weight, and durability.
• How to choose infill percentage? Infill percentage depends on the purpose and function of the object. Higher percentage means more strength, but also more filament and print time. Lower percentage means less strength, but also less filament and print time.
• How to choose infill pattern? Infill pattern affects the strength, flexibility, and appearance of the object. Different patterns have different advantages and disadvantages. For example, grid is fast and simple, honeycomb is strong and light, and cubic is a good compromise.
• How to use variable infill density? Variable infill density allows you to customize the infill settings for different parts of the object. This can help you optimize the strength, cost, and print time of your object. You can use different tools in different slicers to achieve variable infill density.

Infill density is the amount of filament printed inside the object, and directly relates to the strength, weight, and printing duration of your print.

Most FDM objects are not printed as solid objects, because that would use a ton of filament and take quite a long time to print.

On the other hand, a totally hollow print would be impractical, as it would easily fail under the stress of normal usage.

Infill 3D printing is a compromise between these two positions.

In this guide, I’ll explain the methods I use to choose the right infill percentage and patterns for my projects to maximize strength and cost savings.

We’ll step through mastering variable infill density across all the main slicer software options, and go over the most common infill troubleshooting issues so your 3D prints are as effective as possible.

How to Choose Infill Percentage in 3D Printing

3D Printer infill patterns, or the internal structure of an object, are a necessary part of printing some 3D objects, especially those that require a measure of strength or sturdiness. That being said, infill is also something of a pain.

If you want your print job to succeed, you’re likely to have to use a solid shell with at least a modicum of infill.

The main goal of 3D printing infills is to endow parts and models with certain properties – strength, durability, weight, flexibility, and more. But, infill also plays a major role in reducing print times and cutting down on material usage through the creation of an internal lattice structure inside the 3D print.

The greater the percentage of infill, the higher the density of the part.

As such, infill is a question of balance. A solid, dense part is often overkill and typically wastes filament.

Instead, the aim is to be strategic and provide a structure that delivers strength where needed, typically load bearing parts of the print, while keeping print speeds high and print times down.

Compared to traditional manufacturing techniques, infill is rather unique. Manufacturing methods like injection molding and subtractive manufacturing work in extremes – parts either hollow or completely solid with no middle ground between the two.

In contrast, 3D printing infills allows you to fill the part or model as you please by fine tuning the internal structure with a choice of almost any pattern or density to suit the needs of the project.

Basic Object Sections

In general, a routine FDM object consists of four sections. The design criteria of each of these sections can be individually altered so that an optimized design is achieved. The sections are:

• Shell – The outside walls of an object, typically built up vertically along the z-axis.
• Bottom layers – A part of the shell comprised of an outside wall of an object, initially attached to the build plate.
• Top layers – A part of the shell comprised of an outside wall of an object, facing upwards. Usually the last part of an object to print.
• Infill – The material that comprises the interior of the object between the shell or walls.

Infill Shapes

There are several infill shapes typically available in most slicer programs. For example, Cura’s infill patterns include Honeycomb and Triangles among others.

Which one is right for you depends on what type of object you’re planning on creating and the 3D printing infill strength you require. 

Here are some examples of Cura infill patterns. Some are novelty (like the cross, not pictured) and take longer, whereas others are faster. Honeycomb infill Cura is not currently available. 

Grid / Rectangular is a good default, fast option. Concentric is 2nd best to wave for flexible prints to keep it soft. Triangle is the strongest Cura infill pattern apart from Honeycomb.

Cubic is a great compromise between strength, print speed, and keeping the model light via low filament usage.

Art Infill

Aside from reinforcing prints and delivering specific properties, infill is increasingly used in creative ways in what’s called art infill. The basic idea is to leverage infill patterns to produce striking artistic effects.

Typically, the bottom and top layers of a print are deleted from the print to expose the internal structure of the print so that infill patterns are visible. Art infill is increasingly popular among artists but also for the creation of bespoke jewelry pieces.

Cura Infill Overlap

Overlap is the amount the edges of your infill is printed into the outer walls of your print. If the overlap is too great, you’ll end up with the infill forcing through the walls – which isn’t a pretty sight.

The default is 10%, which gives room for good consistent adhesion between the infill and walls, without the infill coming through. 

The default in most cases is sufficient, but should you want to change it:

Infill Overlap is hidden by default (as are most options in Cura 2.x/3.x)

To enable Cura Infill Overlap:

1. Click on the little cogwheel next to infill when you mouse over it.
2. Then check the box for infill overlap in the window that pops up.
3. Default is 10% of LineWidth – i.e. 0.04mm for a 0.4mm nozzle.

Using Shell Thickness to Reduce Infill Percentage

The shell of an object consists of layers on the outside of an object. In many designs, the shell is often the first area that is printed in any layer. This means that shell thickness is intimately tied to infill amount and percentage.

When you increase the shell thickness of an object, you are also increasing its strength. This means that the object becomes sturdier and more capable of handling stress without the need for increasing the 3D printing infill density.

The majority of slicer programs will allow you to adjust the density of shell thickness in specific areas of the object, thereby offering localized strength where it is needed most.

Shell thickness is usually measured in print nozzle diameters. If you do decide to slightly increase shell thickness to reduce infill amounts, make sure that the thickness specified in your design is a multiple of your nozzle diameter.

This will help reduce voiding in your walls, bottom and top layers.

It really helps to use good quality filament when printing, especially if you’re looking to maximize strength while cutting back on material used. This is where high-quality filament comes into their own, your prints will be stronger, but with lower (or no) infill, you can use less material and save more time.

You may even save money with fewer failed prints or unusable parts. 

It should be noted that there are some drawbacks to this approach. Any post-printing finishing process, such as sanding or annealing, will reduce shell thickness and directly affect strength.

This can be offset by increasing shell thickness even further. However, every increase in shell thickness will drive up print costs and time. So, at some point, increasing shell thickness to reduce or eliminate infill amounts becomes a losing proposition.

Experimenting with your designs and slicer settings will help you determine if this approach is right for your particular circumstances.

3D Printer Infill Percentage and Overall Object Strength

To understand infill, think about the doors in your home. Very few doors that are mass-produced are made of solid wood. The cost is simply too prohibitive. The majority of doors available commercially have a wooden or metal outside surface built around a core consisting of a lower density material.

This allows the door to be produced quickly in large volumes while remaining affordable.

So, to an FDM object. The typical FDM design consists of a solid outer surface (the shell) which is built around a lower density infill. As was the case with doors, this arrangement allows the object to be printed as quickly as possible at a reasonable cost.

The majority of slicer programs have a default infill setting somewhere between 18% and 20%. For many designs and objects, this default density is perfectly acceptable. However, when it comes to infill percentage, there is no hard and fast rule that fits all scenarios.

An 18% to 20% infill percentage may work fine for a prototype object where strength takes a backseat to form or shape. However, that same infill percentage will be completely inadequate for an object that has been designed to hold weight, like a bracket.

In general, the strength of an FDM object is directly tied to the infill percentage used during printing. For example, a part utilizing 50% infill is approximately 25% stronger than a part that utilizes 25% infill.

However, the amount of strength gained by increasing infill percentage does not increase linearly. For example, increasing infill percentage from 50% to 75% only results in an additional strength increase of 10%.

In addition to increasing overall object strength, infill percentage is also critical to object feature strength. For example, consider a two-piece object designed to connect together using an integral attachment feature like a snap-fit.

A snap-fit connector is usually designed as a cantilever. This means that its weakest point will be the small area attaching it to the main body of the object.

At a low infill percentage, the internal density of the cantilever is insufficient to withstand the stress of connection. As a result, it will snap off at its connecting point.

Increasing the infill percentage will increase the density of the connection, with a corresponding increase in strength.

The same situation holds true where a multi-part object is designed to be assembled using screws or bolts. Using a low percentage of infill usually will result in a weak connection, due to the fact that the bolt or screw is more likely to gain insufficient purchase or miss the infill altogether when density is low.

Again, if you’re looking to maximize strength, using a higher quality filament with a stronger pure based resin (higher grade and without filler that cheaper makes can use) with better layer to layer adhesion will build more strength into your prints. 

Variable Infill Density

While preset infill settings and densities are great for the majority of projects, you can further personalize thanks to variable infill density. Put simply, variable infill density allows for different infill densities and patterns within the same part or model. 

Variable infill density is especially useful for functional parts, where different parts of the print require different levels of strength and durability. For example, load bearing support on specific parts of a print, contact points on mechanical parts subject to substantial friction, or adding extra density – and therefore weight – to a decorative model or figurine so that it stands upright.

Conversely, you can dial in a lower density for areas that don’t serve a mechanical purpose or don’t need added strength.

With clever use of variable infill density you also waste less filament and reduce print times by only using denser and more complex patterns where they are needed.

Variable Infill Density in Cura

Unfortunately, Cura doesn’t feature a specialized variable infill tool, so it’s about workarounds and the most popular option is to use the support blocker feature. Though a little complicated, it does work to tweak the infill density at various points on a part.

Load a model in Cura, then tap the Support Blocker button in the left-hand toolbar. This will create a Support Blocker, either cube shaped or a custom shape. You can modify the shape later on so don’t worry too much about where it lands on the model right now.

Click on the model, then click on the Per Model Settings option in the left-hand toolbar – it’s just above the Support Blocker button. Select Modify Settings for Overlaps as the mesh type. Click on Select Settings. Type Infill Density into the filter search bar at the top, then tick the box next to Infill Density. Tap close.

Back in the mesh settings window on the left, dial in the infill density you want for the area the cube covers. For example, you could crank it up to 80% for a load bearing part, and take it down to 10-20% for a purely cosmetic area.

Click on the model, then move and alter the shape of the Support Blocker to match the part of the print where you want a different density to the global setting. We recommend creating a plane that exceeds the size of the print, so that you’re defining parameters for layers. This makes it much easier to work with than small cubes and ensures you are covering the full layers on that part of the print.

You can then repeat the process for all the points of the print you want to modify. Slice and print as usual from here. You can get an overview of your changes after slicing the model by heading over to the preview tab then cycling down through the layers to view the different density settings as defined by the Support Blockers.

Variable Infill Density in Simplify3D

In Simplify3D, you can use the Variable Settings wizard to set variable infill. Head to tools, then select the Variable Settings Wizard. Move the red plane to the area of the print you want to modify, then tap Add Location. You can repeat this for the areas of the print you want to tweak. When you’re ready, tap Split Process. 

In the processes window, select the area you want to edit, then change the infill settings as needed. Repeat for all areas. Remember to tap save. Alternatively, you can use Process Grouping to edit several areas at the same time. 

Once you’re done, click on Prepare For Print to bring up a new window. Select all the processes then tick continuous printing, then tap Ok. Simplify3D will then slice your part, taking into account the variable area settings you dialed in previously. 

Once it’s done, you’ll get an overall preview of your print. By clicking Current Process, the preview will breakdown you different areas using several colors to get a better sense of what the variable infill settings are located. When you’re ready, fire off the print. 

For a more comprehensive walkthrough, check out Simplify3D’s dedicated guide.

Variable Infill Density in PrusaSlicer

PrusaSlicer allows you to alter settings for specific areas of a print using several tools – height range modifier and model modifier mesh.

Height Range Modifier

Load a model into Prusa Slicer. Right-click on the model and select ‘height range modifier’ from the drop down menu. A new ‘height ranges’ window will pop up on the right where you can define areas based on layers. For example, layer 2 to layer 30, or layer 20 to layer 40. 

Select the intervals you want to tweak, then tap the gear symbol. Here you can define a custom infill, layers, perimeters, support material, extrusion width, speed, layer height input, and more.

Model Modifier Mesh

Load a model into PrusaSlicer, then right click on it and choose ‘Add Modifier’. From here, you can select a preset modifier type (cube, sphere, slab, cylinder) or tap load to load in a custom mesh shape pulled from, for example, a different 3D model. Try and choose a modifier that best fits the shape of the area you want to tweak.

From here, right-click on the modifier to change the infill, layers, perimeters, support material, speed, extrusion width, and more. You can then place the modifier over the part of your print you want to alter, signaling to PrusaSlice that you want custom infill settings for that specific place. Repeat as needed for the rest of the print, then slice and print as you usually would.

For more insight into how modifiers work to offer variable infill settings, check out the dedicated guide on the PrusaSlicer website.

Support Infill Percentage

Much the same way you may want to increase infill in areas that are higher stress, it’s often wise to reduce support infill percentage as much as you can get away with. For very small supports often 0% will be fine.

This allows you to save filament and keep printing speeds lean. 

Infill Problems

This common printing issue, shown in the image above, is often assumed to be a problem with your infill settings. However, this issue is actually a simple case of under extrusion – if a very extreme example. 

Because the infill wall widths are often printed much thinner than the outer walls of your print, under extrusion issues nearly always become more obvious with infill, even if the thicker printed outer walls appear fine at first. 

If you’re getting spongy infill problems, then you may need to look at sorting out your under extrusion issue first. 

Other issues, such at the infill not touching or binding fully with the outer walls of your print (put simply, gaps between infill and outer walls), could be caused by incorrect slicer settings, if not already a symptom of under extrusion mentioned above.

To remedy this, you’ll want to ensure your ‘infill overlap’ settings in your slicer are set correctly. Often the cause is that they’re not set initially, or set to ‘0’.

Experiment with incrementally higher values (start at around 10% and usually don’t exceed 50%) with your specific print until the problem is solved. 

Summary

In the end, when thinking about infill, you want to remember the unique relationship between strength, cost and print time. Every increase in an object’s strength comes with a corresponding increase in printing cost and time.

The secret to a successful use of infill is to find the sweet spot where sufficient strength is obtained for an object’s designed purpose, with both cost and time being kept within acceptable parameters.

Key Takeaways

• Creality Firmware: Official firmware with basic features and compatibility. Easy to install on Ender 3 V2.
• Marlin Firmware: Open-source firmware with advanced features and customization. Requires code editing and Arduino Uno for older Ender 3 models.
• TH3D Unified Firmware: User-friendly firmware based on Marlin 2.0. Tested and stable with pre-configured Ender 3 profiles.
• Klipper Firmware: High-speed firmware that uses a Raspberry Pi to process G-Code. Complex to set up but offers unique features and performance.

For most hobbyists, the best Ender 3 firmware will be the standard Creality stock firmware. It covers all your basic 3D printing needs and will keep your printer running smoothly.

But if you’re looking to expand your Ender 3’s functionality with hardware upgrades – such as automatic bed leveling, thermal runaway protection, and PID tuning – you’ll need to install more specialized firmware.

Firmware like Marlin and Jyers will expand the capability of your device and are easier to install than you might think.

Those are my top two recommendations, but the right firmware for you will depend on the specific changes you’re looking to make.

I’ll explain the particular merits of each to help you make the right choice – including how easy they are to install.

If you happen to own an Ender 3 V2, you’re in luck. A simple microSD card and the requisite files are everything you’ll need to install fresh firmware.

It’s a little more “hands-on” for Ender 3/Pro, but if you follow the steps in this guide, you’ll be able to set it up without any of the beginner mistakes I made the first time around!

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Official Creality Ender 3 Firmware

If you want the most frictionless path to upgrading your Ender 3’s firmware and don’t want to tweak the code, drawing from Creality’s pool of official firmware updates is the way to go. 

Unsurprisingly, these are tuned to suit the Ender 3, meaning you won’t encounter any compatibility issues, and there’s a version for every iteration of the Ender 3. These include the older 8-bit mainboards and the newer 32-bit V4.2.2 and V4.2.7 boards found on the Ender V2.

Over on Creality’s official forum, you’ll find a wealth of firmware versions.

There is all manner available based on your printer and options for specific hardware upgrades such as BL a Touch and a filament runout sensor. You also benefit from thermal runaway protection in the latest Creality firmware, which itself is reason enough to push through an update.

To install on the Ender 3 V2, load the BIN file onto a microSD card and pop it into the mainboard’s microSD card slot.

The process is more involved for the stock Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro. You’ll need to flash a bootloader onto the printer using an Arduino Uno, then upload the new firmware to your printer’s mainboard.

Marlin 2.0

Marlin is an open-source firmware with a long history dating back to the early days of RepRap printers.

It’s used by many of the leading consumer printer manufacturers. Creality uses an altered and customized version for its official firmware.

So what sets it apart from Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware?

Adaptability, features, and self-configuration. If you need to tune the firmware to suit particular upgrades, fix bugs, and fine-tune the real-time coordination of the printer’s active parts, then Marlin 2.0 offers an extra degree of freedom.

PID heater control, linear advance, automatic bed leveling, power loss recovery – these are a taste of the advanced, sophisticated functions Marlin offers to those partial to tinkering their way to higher quality prints.

You can freely toggle features on and off to find the perfect mix for your needs.

Alternatively, there are great pre-configured Ender 3 profiles that you can upload straight to the printer. And, should you stumble, there’s strong community support ready to help you troubleshoot.

It’s compatible with both the older 8-bit Ender 3s along with the newer 32-bit variants, though the installation process differs as we saw above with the official Creality Ender 3 firmware.

TH3D Unified Firmware

TH3D Unified firmware is among the most accessible Ender 3 firmware options out there.

It makes tweaking settings easy while guaranteeing version stability through heavy testing, so you’re unlikely to meet any bugs or problems. Most of its iterations have pre-configured profiles specifically for the Ender 3, all tuned to work from the get-go.

TH3D is based on Marlin 2.0. It bundles in all the firmware’s basic benefits but throws in a few unique features such as:

• PID autotuning
• Power loss print resume
• Preheating for different filament types
• Assisted bed leveling
• Support for E3D V6 hot end upgrades
• Manual mesh leveling support

Much like the other firmware options in our guide, Ender 3 V2 owners have it easy with a simple microSD card upload to the mainboard. Ender 3 and Pro users will need to draft in an Arduino and flash the board with a bootloader before uploading the firmware file.

Klipper

A one-person-developed open-source firmware, Klipper is designed to dramatically boost the printing speed of the Ender 3.

Klipper achieves this by delegating computational duties to a single-board computer such as a Raspberry Pi. The board takes care of the G-Code processing side of things and calculates printer movements.

Doing so introduces more processing power into the mix than you’d get with the Ender 3’s mainboard alone.

With that extra outside SBC help, the Ender 3’s mainboard is left to concentrate exclusively on executing the G-Code commands, resulting in faster and quieter printing thanks to high-precision acceleration physics and machine kinematics-based stepper movements.

Aside from this unique approach, Klipper has a stacked feature set.

These include:

• Smooth pressure advance to reduce ooze
• Input shading to counter vibrations
• Custom programmable macros
• Automatic bed leveling support
• Thermal runaway protection
• Stepper phase end stop algorithm to improve first layer adhesion
• Support for filament sensors

Just to name a few…

It goes without saying that using a Raspberry Pi alongside the printer itself adds another layer of complexity.

In our estimation, Klipper is an advanced option better suited to seasoned tinkerers with experience working with SBCs and happy to configure the firmware themselves.

It’s also worth checking out Fluidd, a bespoke UI for Klipper if you decide to take the plunge.

It’s a lightweight and responsive interface to tame and shape the firmware to your needs. If you’ve never dabbled in similar projects, we highly recommend more beginner-friendly options such as TH3D Unified firmware or Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware.

Jyers

An up-and-coming firmware that’s slowly gaining traction among Ender 3 owners, the Jyers firmware is one to keep an eye on.

It’s based on Marlin 2.0 and is incredibly user-friendly.

Notable features include a revamped Ender 3 menu with manual leveling, Z offset, preheat, change filament menus, labeled error messages, M600 G-Code, PID autotune, and manual mesh leveling.

We can’t recommend it as it stands due to various major bugs hampering an otherwise excellent set of features. However, active development should see these smoothed out before long, at which point Jyers has everything to make it a superior alternative to the official Creality firmware.

If you are nevertheless tempted and don’t mind navigating the bugs, installation follows the usual Arduino Uno bootloader flash and firmware installation for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro.

Installing Jyers on the Ender 3 V2 requires no more than a formatted microSD card and the firmware files.

What You’ll Need to Update Your Ender 3 Firmware

Depending on what Ender 3 version you have, you’ll need to make sure you have all the right gear to get started.

Below, you’ll find a breakdown of everything you need if you have an Ender 3, Ender Pro, or the newer Ender 3 V2.

Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro

• Arduino Uno or other microcontroller
• Five female-to-female jumper cables
• One male-to-female jumper cable 
• USB cable
• PC
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• Latest version of Arduino IDE software
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 V2

• A clean, formatted microSD card
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 S1/S1 Pro

• A clean, microSD card formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

Ender 3 V2 Neo

• A clean, microSD card with a capacity of no more than 8 GB formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

FAQ

If you enjoyed this article, check our other Ender 3 software guides to help get the most from your 3D printer:

• The Best Ender 3 3D Printing Software Overall
• Which Slicer Tool is Best for Ender 3? (Free and Premium)
• How-to: Fixing the Ender 3 “No TF Card” Message

Key Takeaways

• Check mainboard version: Remove the mainboard cover and look for V4.2.2 or V4.2.7 on the PCB.
• Download Jyers configuration: Choose the right BIN file from the Jyers GitHub according to your mainboard and bed leveling preferences.
• Load firmware onto MicroSD card: Transfer the BIN file to a clean and formatted MicroSD card.
• Flash firmware to printer: Insert the MicroSD card into the printer, turn it on, and wait for the firmware to install. Check the Info menu to verify the installation.

Though the Ender 3 V2 is a certified classic in the 3D printing community, it’s limited when it comes to the stock Creality Marlin-based firmware. These limitations touch on both the software and hardware side of things: upgrades such as automatic bed leveling or PID tuning simply aren’t possible with the firmware loaded onto the stock Ender 3 V2.

Fortunately, there’s a relatively easy way to unlock the Ender 3 V2’s full upgrade and modding potential – pre-configured Jyers firmware. 

In this guide, we’ll lay out exactly what Jyers is, how it can be used to improve the Ender 3 V2, and, more importantly, provide a step-by-step guide detailing how to install Jyers on the Ender 3 V2.

Overview of Jyers Firmware

What is Jyers Firmware?

Jyers is a free open-source firmware based on Marlin – one of the most popular firmware options out there in 3D printing circles – but tweaked, reconfigured, and customized to allow for additional features, hardware, and functionality that overcome the limitations inherent in the stock Ender 3 V2 firmware. 

With Jyers, the Ender 3 V2 can be tweaked to accommodate new hardware like an automatic bed leveling probe, functionality like mid-print filament swapping, or software improvements like a much-improved, customizable on-screen UI and manual mesh bed leveling.

While the basic functions of the printer are identical, Jyers opens the door to customizing the Ender 3 V2 printing experience to your liking. The beauty of Jyers is that it’s based on pre-compiled configurations that make installation extremely straightforward and easy. 

These configurations cover virtually all possible needs and wants with versions for different motherboards, for those that want bed leveling, those that don’t, and default configuration profiles for those that want only the basic improvements.

The Full Steps:

• Step 1: Check the mainboard
• Step 2: Install Jyers Firmware
• Step 3: Install the necessary software
• Step 4: Prepare Ender 3 V2 for firmware flashing
• Step 5: Flashing the Firmware
• Step 6: Verify installation was successful

How to Install Jyers Firmware on Ender 3 V2

Step 1: Check the Mainboard

The first thing to do before installing Jyers is to check what mainboard version is in your Ender 3 V2. Doing so will allow you to choose the right Jyers firmware configuration on GitHub. 

Creality produces the Ender 3 V2 with the Creality V4.2.2 mainboard, but the manufacturer also produces the Creality V.4.2.7, a popular Ender 3 upgrade. As such, it’s especially important to check the mainboard version if you picked up the printer secondhand.

The easiest way to check the mainboard version is to dive into the innards of the Ender 3 V2. It sounds more daunting than it is: simply remove the mainboard casing cover and look at the board itself. 

Etched into the center PCB will be the mainboard version. To access the mainboard, remove the four screws (one on top and three underneath), then remove the cover. 

At this point, we recommend being gentle as you don’t want to disrupt the fan wiring which is attached to the cover. With the cover removed, check the middle of the board – it should read either V4.2.2 or Creality 4.2.7 right next to an imprint of the Creality logo.

Step 2: Choose The Right Jyers Firmware Version

Now that we know which mainboard is on your Ender 3 V2, it’s time to download the right version of Jyers. Over on the Jyers GitHub, you’ll find several different pre-configured binary firmware configurations as BIN files with names that can be a tad confusing. Let’s break it down.

Let’s take the E3V2-BLTouch-3×3-HS-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin configuration:

• E3V2 – refers to the printer. Here the Ender 3 V2.
• BLTOUCH – means this version supports a BL Touch probe.
• 3×3 – Bed leveling mesh size (3×3 = 9 points, and 5×5 = 25 points).
• HS – High Speed, indicates that this version uses a faster automatic bed leveling process where the probe uses a shorter retraction distance for every point.
• v4.2.2 – mainboard version, either Creality V4.2.2 or Creality V4.2.7.
• V2.0.1 – the Marlin version the configuration is based on.

In the configuration file names, you also find several other indicators:

• Default – for those not using an automatic bed leveling probe like the BL Touch.
• Non-HS – for these versions, the HS indication won’t appear, which simply means the BL Touch uses the Unified Bed Leveling system with normal probe retraction during leveling.

From here, you’ll want to select the Jyers firmware configuration that best suits your needs and whether or not you’ve installed a BL Touch.

Step 3: Load the Firmware onto an SD Card

​​Once you’ve chosen and downloaded your version, the next step is to load the file onto a MicroSD card in order to send it to the Ender 3 V2 for flashing. 

We recommend taking a clean MicroSD card with no other files loaded onto it and even formatting to FAT32 beforehand to avoid any issues. 

From there, simply transfer the BIN file to the MicroSD card, which should take no more than a few seconds given the small file size.

Step 4: Prepare Ender 3 V2 for Firmware Flashing

Before flashing the mainboard, it’s worth taking note of any customized settings you’ve set on your Ender 3 V2, notably if you’ve fine-tuned the E-steps previously. These can cover parameters like motion such as speed, max corner speed, and acceleration.

It goes without saying that you’ll want to remove any filament loaded into the printer, screw the mainboard cover back on, make sure the printer is turned off to start, and the nozzle/bed have cooled down.

Step 5: Flashing the Firmware

The next step is to flash the Jyers firmware configuration to the Ender 3 V2 mainboard. It’s the most important step of the process, but fortunately isn’t all that taxing.

• Firstly, turn the printer off.
• Insert the MicroSD with the firmware loaded onto it into the Ender 3 V2’s MicroSD card slot
• Turn on the printer.

After roughly 20-30 seconds, the printer will boot up again with the firmware installed and the refreshed Jyers UI. As you can see, the process is dead simple and the machine takes care of all the heavy lifting for you.

Step 6: Verify Installation Was Successful

At this point, we recommend checking that Jyers installation was indeed successful. In the new Jyers UI menu, go to Control, then select Info. Here, you’ll see the firmware version. Double-check that it corresponds with the one you downloaded from the GitHub repository.

You may also want to dive into the settings, and re-enter the parameters you noted down earlier to save having to recalibrate the E-Steps again. We also recommend running a test print, possibly a simple calibration cube or a Benchy just to verify everything is running smoothly.

If you don’t get on with Jyers, know that you can always revert to the stock Ender 3 V2 firmware. Visit the Creality website, download the firmware, and load it onto a MicroSD card. From here, follow the same steps above: turn off the printer, insert the SD card, turn on the printer, and wait for the flashing process to complete.

What Does Jyers Firmware Add to Ender 3 V2?

Now, that we have an understanding of what Jyers firmware is all about, it’s worth diving into the features and options it provides when loaded on the Ender 3 V2:

Manual Mesh Bed Leveling 

Jyers offers the option to use manual mesh bed leveling. It’s a vastly more precise and efficient way to level the bed, short of installing an automatic bed leveling probe like the BL Touch, than the basic manual process usually used on the Ender 3 V2. 

Jyers’ mesh leveling functions allow you to choose a mesh with 9 to 25 set points on the bed, then to adjust the z-offset for each of these for more accurate leveling and better first-layer adhesion. It’s a great way to compensate for the slight irregularities on the bed’s surface.

Automatic Bed Leveling

Support for automatic bed leveling probes, setting you up for a hardware upgrade to a probe like the BL Touch.

Assisted Manual Leveling

Provides guided manual leveling, a solid improvement over the unassisted leveling of the stock Ender 3 V2 firmware.

Filament Change/Advanced Pause

This function recognizes the M600 G-code command, allowing you to pause the printer mid-print and swap in a different filament, useful for multi-color or multi-material prints. 

The function will automatically move the print head, unload the filament, purge, and load fresh filament with very little input from the user, other than inserting new filament into the hot end.

Full File Name

Displays full file names in the UI by scrolling to the right when hovering over the model. This is useful if you’re managing numerous versions of the same models with similar names and need to differentiate between them without loading a MicroSD card onto a computer to check.

Live Z-Offset Tuning

This feature allows you to tune the z-offset live during the printing process to ensure the correct distance between the bed and nozzle for proper layer adhesion and smooth surface finishes.

Customizable Pre-Heat Profiles

You can adjust the parameters of pre-heat profiles for different filaments like PLA, PETG, and ABS to suit different brands of filament and your project.

PID Autotune

An on-display PID tune function to calibrate hot end and bed temperature fluctuations to provide controlled and consistent temperatures which improve overall print finish and quality.

Improved and Customized UI

Jyers introduced a customizable UI where you can adjust colors (cursor, boxes, text, status bar, etc.), brightness, how progress is displayed, and turn sounds and the display on/off as needed. There are also statistics for the number of prints, successful prints tracking, filament used tracking, and more.

Improved Octoprint Integration

Unlike the stock firmware which offers next to no on-screen info when using Octoprint, Jyers expands this to show a progression bar and filename.

EEPROM

Jyers saves printer settings on the mainboard rather than on the inserted SD card.

Pros and Cons of Jyer Firmware on Ender 3 V2

Here, we’ll outline the general pros and cons of Jyers for the Ender 3 V2 to give you a broad sense of what the firmware offers.

Pros:

• Jyers is designed and configured exclusively for the Ender 3 V2, which means the firmware works out of the box with no lengthy compiling or tinkering.
• Jyers features enhanced bed leveling, including assisted bed leveling, mesh bed leveling, and support for an automatic bed leveling probe like the BL Touch.
• The UI is customizable with several color schemes and trackers (prints, successful prints, filament consumption). File names are also displayed in full on the UI.
• Includes PID tuning to calibrate the temperature fluctuations of the bed/nozzle for better overall printing performance.
• The Jyers Ender 3 V2 firmware includes a filament change and advanced paused function for mid-print filament and color swapping.
• Live off-set tuning allows you to fine-tune the distance between the nozzle and bed during the printing process, especially useful for nailing that first layer.
• EEPROM shift printer setting saves from a MicroSD card to the mainboard memory, so there’s no need to constantly have a card inserted into the machine or be in trouble if you happen to misplace the SD card.

Cons:

• Jyers has a steeper learning curve than the stock Creality firmware with more options and settings for users to get accustomed to and learn.
• Unfortunately, Jyers is no longer regularly updated with the last meaningful changes made in November 2021. That’s not to say that Jyers is outdated, but it’s no longer in active development.

As one of the best-selling printers of all time, the Ender 3 and its successors, including the Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, and more recently the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 Neo, are favorites among newcomers and seasoned makers alike. It’s well-priced, versatile, and offers a gentle introduction to 3D Printing. But, as with most 3D printers, the Ender 3 takes some targeted tweaking and slicer setting adjustments to get the most out of it, notably in the ever-popular Cura.

In this guide, we’ll cover the best Cura profile settings for Ender 3, touching on parameters like print speed, infills, temperatures, different filaments, and much more to help you tune the very best Cura profile.

How To Find Ender 3 Profiles in Cura

To find the Ender 3 profile in Cura:

• Open Cura
• Tap on Settings, then select ‘Add Printer.’
• Click on ‘Add a non-networked printer’ to expand a list of printers.
• Scroll down and click on ‘Creality3D’.
• Select the Ender 3 from the list of options, and tap the ‘Add’ button.
• On the next screen, make sure the build volume, heated bed, etc. line up with your printer’s specifications, then click the Next button.

What Are the Best Cura Settings for Ender 3?

Print Speed

Print speed is arguably the most important slicer setting, with a huge effect on both print times and print quality. Slower speeds tend to produce better details, surface finish, and overall quality – but extends print times. 

For standard filaments like PLA and ABS, a print speed of 50-60 mm/s offers a strong balance of quality and speed. If you’re working with large parts or models and quality isn’t all that important, don’t hesitate to increase print speeds up to 80 mm/s and even higher, though expect blemishes and imperfections as a result.

These recommendations apply for all Ender 3 models including the newer Ender 3 S1 and Ender Neo models. For more specific advice, we also have an article on Ender 3 print speeds.

Hot End Temperature

The correct temperature settings in your Cura profile is vital. The wrong parameter can condemn a print to failure before it’s even started, causing blemishes, poor layer adhesion, and extrusion issues. 

Above are our recommendations for each filament type, though we highly suggest following the manufacturer’s recommendations for your specific brand of filament for the best results. If you’re not getting good results, adjust the temperature in small increments of 5°C until you see improvements. 

For PLA, 200°C tends to get the best out of the Ender 3. Note that the original Ender 3’s nozzle temperature is capped at 240°C, slightly below the upper limit for ABS and PETG, so, depending on the brand, it may struggle to hit the optimum temperature for those filament types. 

All other Ender 3 models (S1, Neo, Pro, V2, Max) push a 250°C nozzle temperature or higher, covering all the most popular material types.

Print Bed Temperature

There’s no universal best bed temperature setting for the Ender 3 – the right temperature is contingent on the type of filament being printed. 

Also, though we can estimate ballpark heated bed temperature ranges for each filament, these can vary between brands, so double-check manufacturer recommendations.

The above recommendations apply to all Ender 3 models, as all variants, including the Pro, S1, Neo, Max, have a heated bed. 

For ABS, you’ll want to pair a 100-110 °C bed temperature with an enclosure for your Ender 3, such as a DIY tent or even one of Creality’s own pop-up chamber tents. The idea here is to remove temperature fluctuations caused by gusts and natural shifts in ambient temperature to maintain a stable thermal environment for ABS to perform at its best.

Layer Height

Layer height determines not just the richness or detail and features, but also overall print times. This is because dialing in a smaller layer height means more layers to complete a print, and, therefore, longer print times. 

As such, the balance is between quality and print times, so the optimal layer height depends more on your needs, expectations, the type of print, and its application. 

For example, a decorative piece with lots of surface details will benefit more from a lower layer height, while a large, functional piece subject to wear and tear is best printed with a higher layer height to reduce print times but also because aesthetics aren’t all that important.

For the Ender 3, layer heights are best dialed in increments of 0.04 mm because the Ender 3’s z-axis stepper motor moves by a multiple of that distance per step. This is down to the way the threaded rod lifts the x carriage per revolution and how that relates to the number of steps per rotation. 

Retraction

Retraction determines by what distance and at what speed the extruder pulls back filament into the nozzle during non-printing travel movements. 

Retraction settings oozing, stringing, and other forms of excess filament deposition, aiming to produce sharper and overall higher-quality prints with fewer artifacts and unsightly material build-up.

Again, the right settings depend on your filament type, and which Ender 3 you have. The Bowden extruder Ender 3s, including the Ender 3, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, and Ender 3 Max require a shorter but slower retraction to compensate for the longer filament path through the tubing. 

While Ender 3s equipped with the Sprite Direct Drive extruder setup benefit most from a longer retraction distance and faster retraction speed to make the most of the precision of the onboard print assembly extruder. For upgrading, we also have an article on Ender 3 direct drive upgrades.

For stringing-prone filaments like TPU and PETG, a tighter retraction distance, as low as 4 mm, works best, with the speed dialed around 25 mm/s. 

Retraction can be quite temperamental, so it’s worth dialing in these general settings, then running stress test prints and adjusting up/down in small increments until you eliminate most, if not all, instances of stringing. We’ve also written an in-depth article on Ender 3 retraction settings.

Infill Density

Infill refers to the innards of a print, and infill density in particular, measured as a percentage, determines how much filament and what pattern is used to create the infill. 

As with other settings like bed temperature and hot end temperature, the ‘best’ infill density is print specific. 

For display pieces destined for a life on a shelf, use a lower density. This will cut down on filament usage and print times. Typical densities for these types of prints range anywhere from 0% (check out Cura Vase Mode, for example) up to 15-20% for more durable models.

As for more functional models and parts subject to wear and tear or regular handling, then a higher infill density improves overall structural integrity, strength, weight, durability, and longevity. Common infill density for these types of prints is usually above 50%. But for Ender 3 infill Cura settings, this will be rare.

There’s also an in-between for prints that don’t quite fall into either category, with densities ranging between 15% and 50%. As you can see, this variety means it’s hard to know the best infill density without knowing the specifics of a project and the target application.

Infill Patterns

Diving into Cura’s infill patterns reveals a selection of options, 14 different patterns to be exact. Not all of these are created equal, nor are they suited to all types of prints. 

The pattern dictates the shape of the infill, and affects the print’s overall strength and flexibility, and how much filament is required. 

Here’s a breakdown of the different attributes of the most popular infill patterns found in Cura:

Unless you’re determined to have strength or flexibility in a print, then standard infill patterns like Triangles, Cubic, Lines, and Zig-Zag will work for the majority of prints.

Initial Layer Print Speed

Initial layer speed is similar to the global print speed, except that it relates only to the first layer laid down by the printer. 

A lower initial layer speed promotes better adhesion, setting the rest of the print up for success. If you’re struggling to get a clean first layer down, this is the setting to save the day.

We recommend dropping it down to around 25 to 30 mm/s for the best results, as the slower speed allows the filament to create a much stronger and more durable bond to the bed and between those first few layers. 

As the setting only affects the first few layers, it doesn’t increase overall print times by much at all, so it’s well worth slowing down to avoid print failures and errors later on.

Initial Layer Height

As a general rule, you’ll want an initial layer height larger than the global layer height, typically somewhere around 0.20 mm. We also recommend tuning the Initial Bottom Layers to 5 or 6 layers to nail that bed adhesion.

FAQs:

Slicer settings are the printing parameters, like nozzle temperature and print speed, that are controlled in the 3D slicer software (e.g. Cura). While you don’t need to know every slicer setting, there are a handful of extremely important settings that significantly affect the outcome of a print.

In this article, we’ll explore the most powerful slicer settings that can make all the difference in producing beautiful and useful 3D prints.

From layer height to print speed, we’ll cover what each setting does and how to adjust them to achieve the best results.

So whether you’re a seasoned 3D printing pro or just starting out, read on to learn how to get the most out of your slicer settings!

What is a Slicer?

A slicer is a type of 3D printing software that takes a digitized 3D model and converts it into instructional commands that your 3D printer can interpret and follow to create the desired physical 3D print.

In essence, the slicer takes the CAD model (STL file) and “cuts” it into layers. Think of a series of 2D pictures stacked on top of each other to create a 3D model.

The slicer software then calculates how much material needs to be used for that layer, where the material should go, and how long it will take to print.

It then converts all of the information for each layer into one GCode file which is sent to your printer. You set up the job and, voila! Sometime later you have a physical representation of the 3D CAD model.

As you can see, the slicer plays an integral role in helping turn your 3D ideas into reality. Therefore, how you use the slicer, specifically how you use the settings, is often a critical difference between printing success and failure.

In this article, we’re going to look at 6 key slicer settings that are common to all the major slicer programs. We’ll tell you what they’re for and we’ll explain how to use them to increase your chances of producing beautiful and useful objects each and every time you print.

Best 3D Printer Slicer Settings

1. Layer Height

Layer height is the 3D slicer setting that establishes the height, or thickness, of each layer of filament in your print. In some sense, layer height in 3D printing is akin to resolution in photography or videography.

But on top of the level of detail on a 3D print, the layer height also impacts the print time, part strength, and surface quality.

Smaller layer heights result in 3D prints with more layers, and this allows your machine to better capture small features and geometries on your print. Larger layer heights will have fewer layers and, thus, less detail.

Another benefit of using a smaller layer height is that prints have less visible layer lines and feel smoother due to the higher number of layers used. 

Though larger layer heights produce a rough surface texture, they offer enhanced part strength and shorter print times than smaller layer heights.

For reference, the most common layer height value is 0.2 mm, as it provides a nice mix of print time, strength, detail, and surface quality. 

But, if you’re printing a model, like a miniature figurine, where detail is a top priority, then consider lowering the layer height to 0.16 mm or lower. 

On the other hand, if you’re printing a large box or container, where strength and print time should be prioritized over detail, then you might want to increase to 0.24 mm.

You don’t have to worry too much about the layer height setting, though, when printing PLA or ABS as both materials are pretty forgiving when it comes to this setting.

Before I move onto a different setting, though, it’s worth noting that you should try to use a layer height value that’s divisible by the Z-axis stepper motor’s step distance, also called the “magic number”. 

Most printers, like the Creality Ender 3, use NEMA-17 motors that have a step distance of 0.04 mm. So, if you have one of these printers, consider using a layer height divisible by 4, like 0.16, 0.2, or 0.24 mm (add/minus 0.04 mm).

Don’t worry too much about the layer height, though, as most filaments, including PLA and ABS, are pretty forgiving when it comes to this setting. If your 3D printer has a 0.4-mm nozzle, any layer height between 0.12 and 0.28 mm should produce decent results.

2. Shell Thickness

A shell is the outer wall of a designed object. Shell thickness refers to the number of layers that the outer wall will have before infill printing will begin. The higher the setting is for shell thickness, the thicker the outer walls of your object will be.

Obviously, thicker walls make for a sturdier object, so if strength is a quality that you’re after, it pays to increase the shell thickness appropriately.

Conversely, delicate or decorative designs do not usually require strength. Increasing the shell thickness in these instances provides no real benefit and will likely distort the design of the object being printed.

You should try to set the shell thickness as a multiple of the nozzle print width, which should be equal to the nozzle size (diameter). Most printers use a 0.4-mm nozzle and print width, so shell thicknesses of 0.8, 1.2, or 1.6 mm will work best.

3. Retraction

Retraction is where the 3D printer extruder pulls back a small length of filament to relieve built-up pressure in the hot end to prevent oozing and ensure accurate extrusion. But, for retraction to occur, you need to activate the retraction setting in your 3D slicer.

The basic retraction setting is usually a checkbox, but, once activated, there are a handful of related settings that you can change to further tune the retraction process. 

Easily the two most important of these are:

• Retraction length
• Retraction speed

The retraction length controls the length of filament pulled back during each retraction move, while the retraction speed controls how fast the extruder pulls the filament back. 

Generally, the higher the retraction length and speed, the less you’ll experience stringing and oozing. But, adjusting too far can cause other issues, like filament grinding, hot end jams, and more.

The best values for these two settings depend on your extruder configuration. 

• Bowden-drive printers, like the Prusa Mini+, work best with more intensive retraction settings, including a retraction length of 4-5 mm and a speed of 40-60 mm/s. 
• Direct drive printers, like the Prusa i3 MK3S+, yield better results with lower retraction settings, like a length of 0.5-1.0 mm and a speed of 30-50 mm/s.

4. Fill Density

Infill density is a measure of how much material will be printed inside the outer shell of the object in question. Fill density is usually measured as a percentage of the whole, as opposed to a unit of measure.

This means that if 100% fill density is selected, the printed object will be solid, with no empty space inside the outer shell. Likewise, if 0% is selected, the object will be printed hollow.

Generally, an object with more infill will be stronger and heavier than an object with less infill – but will take noticeably longer to print. 

A typical infill density is around 20%. This provides a nice mix of print time, part strength, material usage, and weight. However, feel free to increase this value for more strength (or weight) or decrease it to save material and print time.

In general, when printing PLA and ABS, you should try keeping the infill density between 10 and 30%:

• Densities below 10% are extremely weak while not saving much filament or time. 
• Densities above 30% consume an excessive amount of filament without providing much additional strength – so it’s not worth the cost.

Infill Pattern

The infill pattern is another infill slicer setting, and it controls the shape and structure of the internal filling of the print.

The infill pattern affects a part’s strength, weight, and print time. There are trade-offs with different infill patterns, and those that provide more strength usually cost you additional print time and filament.

Some common infill patterns, available in most 3D slicers, include grid, lines, cubic, concentric, gyroid, and honeycomb. I’ve briefly gone over a few of these infill patterns and their benefits:

• Grid: The grid infill pattern is one of the simplest, hence why it’s so commonly used. Not only does the grid infill pattern help ensure a successful print, but it also provides a nice mix of low print times and decent part strength.
• Cubic: The cubic infill pattern provides high strength across all axes of the model, and it also doesn’t add too much print time. Cubic is my personal favorite infill pattern and I use it for both generic and functional prints.
• Concentric: This infill pattern is great for printing flexible models, where you want the walls to be able to bend and fold.
• Gyroid: The gyroid infill pattern offers equal strength across all directions, and it looks super cool when exposed (no shell layers).

5. Print Speed

Print speed is how fast the print head travels while extruding filament. Therefore, the optimal print speed depends on the object you’re printing and the filament material that you are using.

In general, simple objects with less detail can be printed faster without any issues, so it’s recommended to use higher speeds for these types of models. But if you’re printing a complex model with intricate features, use a lower print speed.

Your slicer’s default print speed will depend on your printer, extruder, layer height, material, and a few other factors. However, I suggest adjusting the value based on how complex and delicate your print is.

A print speed between 40 and 60 mm/s is typical for PLA and ABS, but, remember, you will likely have to adjust.

Furthermore, if you’re experiencing issues like under-extrusion on prints, consider lowering the print speed as the setting is (typically) indirectly correlated with print quality. However, note that certain issues, like stringing and blobbing, can result from too low of a print speed, so keep this in mind.

6. Bottom/Top Thickness

This setting determines how much material will be laid down before the infill printing starts and how much material will be laid down after the infill printing is finished. The thickness of the material at the top and bottom of your object is important for two reasons.

First, thicker material at the bottom of your object will provide a stronger and more stable base. Second, thicker material at the top of your object will prevent sagging and pillowing from occurring when the top layer of material is laid down over the infill lattice.

This is especially important if you are using a smaller layer height setting. In such a case, the thinness of the layer can be insufficient to completely cover the infill unless multiple layers are used.

Setting the bottom/top thickness to be 6 to 8 times greater than the layer height ensures that there is enough material being laid down to adequately cover the infill without complications.

7. Spiralize – Smooth out the Z Scar

If you’ve printed an object and on one side there appears a vertical scar all the way up the print, this is called a Z scar (also known as a “zipper”). It’s formed from the printer starting and stopping each layer at this point.

This scar can be unsightly, and on very thin prints also significantly weaken the structure.

To remove the Z scar, you’re going to need to activate the Spiralize feature in your slicer. This makes the outer layers print in a continuous line all the way up the print, meaning there’s no definitive stop and start point and therefore no scar formed.

To activate Spiralize feature and remove the vertical scar:

In Cura, it’s called the “Spiralize outer contour” feature, in other slicers it may be slightly different. Make sure this option is checked when you convert your STL file to a Gcode.

It is useful to remember to only change one slicer setting at a time so that you can see the effect that the change is having on your print. If the change is beneficial, write down the change that was made and proceed, if necessary, to change another setting.

Changing multiple settings at the same time can cause chaotic conditions and a positive effect can be canceled out by one or more negative effects.

It may be useful when planning prints to know the length of filament on each size spool for various materials and sizes. To help with this, we’ve created this filament calculator.

8. Temperature

Temperature is easily one of the most important slicer settings for a 3D print. Typically, there are two main temperature slicer settings: the nozzle temperature and the bed temperature (for heated beds).

In the sub-sections below, I’ve gone over everything you should know for each type of temperature setting!

Nozzle Temperature

The nozzle temperature, sometimes called the printing temperature, affects the flow of filament material.

You should set the nozzle temperature based on the filament material you’re using, as different materials can work with vastly different temperatures. 

For example, PLA filaments work best with a nozzle temperature of 190-215°C, while ABS filaments work better with a higher nozzle temperature of 220-240°C.

It’s important to tune the nozzle temperature because too high a value can cause over-extrusion issues, like stringing, blobbing, and zits on the surface of the print due to the accelerated melting process. 

However, using too low nozzle temperature causes under-extrusion (e.g. gaps in the layers), as well as weaker, more brittle parts due to weaker layer-to-layer bonds.

While you don’t need to be spot-on when setting the nozzle temperature, I suggest printing a temperature tower model to evaluate which temperature works best with your specific filament spool.

So, make sure to try a few different nozzle temperatures so you can find that “Goldilocks” value!

Bed Temperature

Bed temperature is also very important. But, unlike the nozzle temperature which affects material flow, the bed temperature mainly impacts bed adhesion, or how well 3D prints stick to the print surface.

Generally, the higher the bed temperature, the better the bed adhesion. And, just like with nozzle temperature, what bed temperature is best depends on the filament material you’re printing.

If you’re printing PLA, while technically you don’t need a heated bed (0°C), it’s recommended to use a bed temperature between 50°C and 60°C. 

But, if you’re printing ABS, you’ll need to use a much higher bed temperature, somewhere between 90°C and 110°C, as this material softens at higher temperatures.

9. Flow Rate

Flow rate, also known as the extrusion multiplier, is a slicer setting that controls the true extrusion of filament. 

The flow rate is extremely useful for preventing over and under-extrusion, resulting in better-detailed, stronger prints. Flow rate can also help you achieve more dimensionally-accurate prints.

Ideally, the flow rate should be 100%, meaning that the printer will use exactly the estimated length of filament to produce the model. However, many external factors, from the extruder E-steps to the nozzle temperature, impact filament extrusion. So, 100% typically isn’t the best E-steps value to use if you’re looking to produce a dimensionally-accurate model.

For example, let’s say that you’re printing a 3DBenchy but your machine typically under-extrudes prints by 2-5%. 3D printing with a 100% flow rate would result in an under-extruded model, with gaps in the layers, so it would be best to either increase the flow rate or fix other extrusion-related issues (e.g. partial nozzle clogs).

It’s important not to confuse the flow rate slicer setting with the E-steps value, which controls the extruder motor’s motion. Moreover, while E-steps can also be used to combat extrusion issues, the E-steps value is inherently a physical machine parameter, not a digital slicer setting like flow rate.

Generally, your flow rate won’t be outside the 90-100% range, but this depends on your specific printer. 

If your 3D prints don’t show any noticeable over-extrusion, under-extrusion, or dimensional accuracy issues, I recommend leaving the flow rate setting alone. But, if you’re experiencing one of these problems, I suggest following a flow rate tuning guide, like this video tutorial.

10. Cooling

The cooling process is critical to the quality of any 3D print, especially when printing overhangs or other delicate geometries. The fan speed slicer setting is best for managing your printer’s cooling levels, and it controls how fast the part-cooling fan (the one pointed at the nozzle) is spinning.

Depending on your 3D slicer software, the fan speed slicer setting is set as either a percentage or absolute value. And, as you might expect, the higher the fan speed, the more cooling is provided during the printing process.

The optimal fan speed value depends on your filament and the model you’re printing. PLA requires moderate cooling, so an 80-100% fan speed is typical, but materials like PETG and PC work better with lower fan speeds, like 20-50%. 

And then there are some materials, like ABS, where it’s recommended to completely turn off part cooling (0% fan speed).

Additionally, if your model has a lot of overhangs or bridging features, you’ll want to use a higher fan speed. That’s because using too low of a fan speed can cause drooping with overhangs and bridges.

Conversely, make sure not to set the fan speed too high as this can cause layer separation and cracking on prints.

However, one exception to all of these generalizations is the first layer. The fan is typically turned off during the first layer to improve the bottom surface and bed adhesion, and you should check that your slicer’s first-layer fan speed is 0%.

11. Supports

Supports are slicer-generated structures that hold up overhanging features on models. Supports aren’t on every print as you’re only supposed to use them when absolutely necessary, as they require additional filament material, extend print time, and hurt the surface finish of your model.

However, if you’re printing a model with a significant overhang (>55°), supports are necessary for a successful print. And there are a few slicer parameters, besides the basic “Activate Supports” setting, that you can use to tune how supports are generated and printed.

I’ve listed and briefly described a few critical slicer settings related to supports:

• Support Type: Depending on your slicer software, you might have multiple options for the type of support structures that are generated. The two most popular options are regular (rectilinear) and tree supports, and the latter is considered better for handling overhangs in difficult-to-reach places. Both PLA and ABS work well with regular and tree supports, so feel free to use either.
• Overhang Angle: The support overhang angle is a fairly-universal slicer setting that controls the minimum steepness of an overhang area for the slicer to generate support structures. The higher this value, set in degrees, the fewer support structures will be printed. I suggest setting the overhang angle to 50-55°, and increasing if you feel comfortable.
• Minimum Support Area: The minimum support area setting controls how large an overhang area must be for the slicer to generate support structures. The large the value, set in millimeters, the fewer support structures will be printed.
• Support Z Distance: Lastly, this setting controls the gap that the printer leaves between the top of a support structure and the beginning of the actual model. A larger support Z distance will make removing support structures from your model after printing easier. For PLA and ABS, I suggest keeping this setting between 0.1 and 0.3 mm.

12. Adhesive Aids

Lastly, adhesive aids are a class of slicer settings that are critical to achieving adequate bed adhesion on prints. If you’re unfamiliar with the term, “adhesive aids” refers to slicer-generated structures that are printed before your actual model to ensure the first layer properly adheres to the print surface.

If the first layer doesn’t stick well to the bed, then your print might fail completely, or, in the best case, your print will be warped and dimensionally inaccurate. As such, knowing what adhesive aid to use is critical to a successful print.

There are three types of adhesive aids: skirts, brims, and rafts. Each offers different advantages and disadvantages, and I’ve described each in the bullet points below:

• Skirt: A distant and detached perimeter that outlines a print, useful for getting material flowing smoothly and making last-minute bed leveling adjustments.
• Brim: Extra filament extruded as concentric rings from a print’s first layer, helpful for prints with a small “footprint” or low surface area contact with the bed.
• Raft: An entire part on its own upon which the model is built, useful for preventing warping and ensuring the print doesn’t have to touch the surface.

Here’s a simple breakdown of the different properties of each type of adhesive aid:

I suggest using a skirt when you have no issues with bed adhesion, a brim for minor bed adhesion issues, and a raft if you’re dealing with warping every print job.

If you’re printing PLA, a skirt or a brim is usually all you need. However, other filament materials, like ABS and PC, are known to have more bed adhesion issues, so you’ll want to use either a brim or raft.

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Best 3D slicers
• Best resin 3D slicers
• Best slicers for Ender 3
• Cura Vase Mode: Complete Guide

Key Takeaways

• What is it? A mode in Cura that prints a single-walled model with a solid bottom in a continuous spiral motion.
• Why use it? It saves time and filament, and produces high-quality results with smooth surface finish and less z-seam.
• What are the limitations? It only works for models with no top layer, no gaps, no overhangs, and no bridges. It also makes fragile and flimsy prints that are not suitable for functional purposes.
• How to enable it? Load your STL file in Cura, go to Special Modes, and tick Spiralize Outer Contour. Then adjust the settings according to your needs.

Among the options, features, and settings within Cura slicer software, one of the most exciting for leveling up your print’s aesthetics is Spiralize Outer Contour, commonly called Cura Vase Mode.

It makes prints faster, and saves you filament, making Vase Mode a popular option for decorative prints with relatively simple geometries, like vases, pencil holders, cups, and other cylindrical shapes.

So, how does Cura Vase Mode work, and is it suited to all print projects? In this guide, we outline everything you need to know about Cura Vase Mode to make the most out of it.

Overview of Cura Vase Mode

What is Cura Vase Mode?

Spiralize Outer Contour, or Cura Vase Mode, is a specialized mode in Cura that produces a part or object in an uninterrupted line of filament with a thickness matching that of a single layer, roughly equivalent to the model’s outer wall. As Cura describes it, 3D printing vase mode turns a solid model into a single-walled print with a solid bottom.

Unlike standard printing, Vase Mode configures the printer to never stop extruding filament, and the print head moves uninterrupted throughout the printing process, ‘spiraling’ upwards to construct the model. The extruder doesn’t retract filament, and the print head doesn’t travel between sections of the print. 

As a result of this smooth motion, single path movement, and thin, single wall thickness, Cura Vase Mode prints much faster than typical modes, and uses less filament.

Limiting itself to a single-layer thickness, Cura’s Vase Mode doesn’t produce long-lasting or structural resistance prints, so it’s chiefly used for decorative or display prints that don’t serve a functional purpose. If they did, they would break, shatter, or snap very easily due to their fragility.

Though prints made using Cura Vase Mode are fragile and slim, it’s compatible with quite a few filaments, including PLA, ABS and PETG, but also flexibles like TPU.

Why Use Cura Vase Mode?

Using Cura Vase Mode helps cut down on print times, saves filament, and improves the surface finish of objects with an unbroken outer surface or wall, with no bridges, gaps, or overhangs, that rises vertically with no top layer, such as a vase, pyramid, open top container, or lamp shade. 

Cura Vase Mode is also popular for applications that require a part to have very thin or light walls that allow light to permeate through.

Best Settings for Cura Vase Mode

Here’s a breakdown of all the parameters that affect Cura Vase Mode and our recommended best settings:

Is Cura Vase Mode Good?

Cura Vase Mode is considered a superb mode for those looking to print very thin, single-wall thickness prints for decorative purposes, such as lamp shades or 3D printing vases, hence the name. As an added benefit, the mode cuts down on filament usage and greatly reduces print times due to the economical way it prints a model.

Cura Vase Mode Advantages

• Prints faster: uninterrupted printing finishes layers and prints quicker.
• Uses less filament: saving you both time and money that would otherwise be spent on filament.
• High-quality results: by printing a single outer wall line of filament in one fluid motion, Cura Vase Mode tends to produce higher quality results with excellent surface finish and less obvious z-seam compared to standard printing modes.
• Versatile: you can print: vases, cylindrical shapes, open containers, pencil holders, lamp shades, pyramids, cups, mugs, and many other decorative pieces – as long as they have no top, and a continuous geometry.

Cura Vase Mode Disadvantages

• Fragile and flimsy: Due to the single, very thin, wall line, models and parts made using Cura Vase Mode are susceptible to breaking under very little pressure, so they aren’t suited to functional applications.
• You can only print one model at a time: because Cura Vase Mode prints in one continuous motion. So batch printing simply isn’t an option. Fortunately, faster print times make up for this somewhat.
• Struggles to print large objects: this is because the part can struggle to support the weight on subsequent layers layered on top. The single wall line design can’t bear heavy loads, so the larger the model, the more it will struggle to maintain its structural integrity.
• Limited uses: only works for objects with a continuous, uninterrupted outer surface or wall, with no bridges, gaps, or overhangs, that rises vertically with no top layer.

Best 3D Printers for Cura Vase Mode

Here are some 3D printers I recommend that are well-suited to pairing with Cura’s vase mode setting:

Ender 3 (and all the subsequent versions)

• Price: Check latest price at Creality here / Amazon here
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG
• Layer height: 100-400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 255°C 
• Max bed temp: 110°C
• Connectivity: USB, SD Card

The Ender 3 is one of the best selling printers to ever hit the market, merging affordability with an excellent starting point for first-time makers, while offering a foundation to tweak and upgrade it if you wish.

It’s well suited to those wanting to use Cura Vase Mode. With some tweaking and calibration, the Ender 3 can make the most of Vase Mode to produce great-quality vases, pencil holders, lamp shades, and plenty more.

Touching briefly on the specifications, it features a 220 x 220 x 250 mm, support for all the most popular filament types, and a 100-micron minimum layer height. 

It lacks some modern niceties like automatic bed leveling, but if these are crucial for you then upgrade to either the Ender 3 V2 Neo, or Ender 3 S1 range. At 3DSourced, we have tested and reviewed both the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and the Ender 3 S1 Pro, and can recommend them both. We’ve also written an article on the best Cura settings for Ender 3.

The ultimate super cheap 3D printer

Creality Ender 3 3D Printer

$189

The best budget 3D printer kit around - and the best-selling, too.

If you have the budget, pick up the V2 or V2 Neo version, or even the Ender 3 S1 if you prefer a direct drive extruder.

Creality here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Ultimaker S5

• Price: Check latest price at MatterHackers here / Dynamism here
• Dual Extrusion: Dependent dual extruders
• Build Volume: 330 x 240 x 300 mm
• Max Built Plate Temperature: 140°C
• Max Nozzle Temperature: 280 °C
• Layer Height: 20-600 microns
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi, Ethernet, USB
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, Tough PLA, PETG, ABS, NYLON, CPE, PC, TPU, PVA

Though pricey at $6,000, the Ultimaker S5 offers a superb dual-extrusion system capable of handling a wide range of filament types thanks to its enclosed chamber, well-sized build volume, and 20-micron minimum layer height.

Though the dependent dual extruders and Cura Vase Mode won’t allow you to print two models at once due to the way vase mode works, the rest of the printer is extremely well suited to produce near-flawless single wall width prints for decorative purposes.

The Ultimaker S5 also offers Wi-Fi, automatic bed leveling, and a max nozzle temperature that makes it compatible with over 200 different filament types. We recommend the Ultimaker S5 for small businesses and enthusiasts with a big budget aiming to make the most of the reduction in print times offered by Cura Vase Mode.

Incredible Accuracy

UltiMaker S5

4.5

$6950

The Ultimaker S5 excels in precision and quality, offering reliable dual extrusion alongside high-end features like remote monitoring via a built-in camera.

MatterHackers here Dynamism here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

FAQs:

Key Takeaways

• What is Cura Vase Mode? A special mode in Cura that prints a single-walled model with a solid bottom in one continuous motion.
• Why use Cura Vase Mode? It prints faster, uses less filament, and produces high-quality results for decorative objects with simple geometries.
• What are the limitations of Cura Vase Mode? It only works for models with no top, bridges, gaps, or overhangs, and it makes fragile and flimsy prints that are not suitable for functional purposes.
• How to enable Cura Vase Mode? Load your STL file in Cura, go to Special Modes, and tick Spiralize Outer Contour. Then adjust your settings and slice your model.

3D character modeling is the process of creating 3D models of characters like dragons, figurines, sculptures, and even the popular hollow knight & hornet.

Also if you want to make a 3D person, 3D character modeling is the way to go.

3D characters are usually used in various industries like in companies that are creating 3D characters for games, animated movies, or other forms of media. 

3D character modeling can be a difficult process, but with this guide, you will be able to make a 3D character that looks realistic and lifelike.

In this article, we will discuss how 3D character modeling works as well as how to 3D model a character in 7 simple steps.

So let’s get started!

How Does 3D Character Modeling Work?

3D character modeling is the process of creating a 3D representation of a character. This can be done using a variety of software programs like 3DS Max, MakeHuman, and ZBrush.

The first step in 3D character modeling is the creation of a base mesh.

This is typically done by starting with a cube and then adding and subtracting polygons to create the desired shape. Once the base mesh is complete, it is time to start adding details.

This is where things can get creative, as there are limitless possibilities for what you can do to make your character look unique. You can add wrinkles, scars, tattoos, etc. The sky is the limit!

Once you are happy with your model, it is time to texture it. This is the process of adding color and shading to your model to give it a realistic look. Texturing can be done in a variety of ways, but the most common method is to use bitmap images.

Different Ways Of 3D Modeling Characters

There are four main techniques for creating 3D characters. These are: 

• Polygon modeling.
• NURBs modeling.
• 3D sculpting.
• 3D scanning.

 Each of these methods is explained below:

1) Polygon Modeling

Polygon modeling is where polygons are used to represent the 3D surface of an object. Polygons are usually made up of three or more vertices, which are connected by edges. 

One advantage of polygon modeling is that it can create both complex and simple 3D character designs as it allows for a high degree of control over the shape. 

Polygons are also planar surfaces, they can be easily manipulated mathematically, which makes them well-suited for computer-aided design applications. 

However, one downside of polygon models is that they can require a large number of polygons to represent even simple shapes accurately. This can result in models that are difficult to render in real-time.

To overcome this challenge, character creators often use a technique called mesh simplification, which reduces the number of polygons in a model while still preserving its overall shape.

2) NURBS Modeling

NURBS, or Non-Uniform Rational B-Splines, is a type of curve used in computer-aided design and CAD software. This technique can be used to build 3D characters that are high-quality and realistic as the curves and splines can be easily modified to suit one’s requirements. 

The basis of NURBS modeling is a series of connected control points, which can be thought of as the control points of a curve or surface.

By moving these control points, the shape of the curve or surface can be changed. And this makes it easier for one to create complex and smooth shapes. 

In Maya, for example, to create a smooth surface like the one shown below using the NURBS modeling process, you start by creating curves of how your surface will look:

Curves are found on the top left section of the menu bar as shown below:

You can then use it to sketch in the workspace based on how you want your design to appear. Then, you click on the command in the middle of the menu bar of the software.

And you will be able to convert the curves into a surface. You can modify it further using the curves.

NURBS modeling is often used for character modeling games characters, and even movies, as it allows for very accurate and realistic representations of human faces and bodies. 

The only downside of this technique is that it’s difficult to learn. However, with a little practice, you’ll be able to create any character you can imagine. 

3) 3D Sculpting

In its simplest form, 3D sculpting is the process of creating a 3D model through “pinch and pull” methods in specialized software like ZBrush or Maya.

This allows artists to create very precise and smooth objects and forms that would be difficult to achieve with other methods like box and polygon modeling.

3D sculpting gives you a lot of control over the final product. You can make small changes to your sculpture without having to start from scratch, which can save a lot of time and effort.

There are many different ways to approach sculpting a character in 3D.

One way is to start with a basic geometric shape, such as a cube or sphere, and then add details one at a time using sculpting brushes. Another approach is to start with a photo of the character you want to sculpt and use that as your reference point.

Whichever method you choose, the important thing is to take your time and be patient. 3D can be a very rewarding experience, but it takes time and practice to get it right. 

4) 3D Scanning

3D scanning is used to create representations of characters for video games, movies, and other digital art. The process begins with a detailed scan of the subject’s face and body.

This data is then used to create a 3D model that can be manipulated to create any desired look or pose.

In addition to the accuracy and precision that this technique offers, it also provides a high degree of flexibility.

For example, if you need to make a change to a model after it has been created, you can simply rescan the object and make the necessary changes. 

There are many different types of 3D scanners available on the market today.

Some are designed for specific tasks, while others are more general purpose. No matter the type of character you would like to scan, there is sure to be one that is right for you.

Steps by Step Process of Creating 3D Characters

1) Find Reference Images or Sketches

Before beginning the modeling process, it is important to have a clear idea of what the final product should look like. This can be achieved by gathering several reference images of the desired character. 

The reference images can be found online on websites like CGTrader and Pikbest, or you can use your photographs. Once the reference images are gathered, they can be used as a guide during the modeling process. 

2) Create a Concept Design

Concept design is the next stage of character modeling and it’s important to get it right as it will serve as the foundation of your design.

Creating a good concept design is all about thinking about the character in terms of its function and purpose. What does the character need to do? How will it be used? What kind of personality does it have?

Once you have a clear idea of these things, you can start sketching out your ideas.

One helpful tip is to start with a simple line drawing of the character. This will help you get a feel for its overall shape and proportions.

From there, you can start adding more details like facial features, clothing, and accessories. 

With a great concept design in hand, you’ll be well on your way to creating a great character model.

3) 3D Character Modeling

a) Create a Basic Mesh:

The first step in 3D modeling is to create a basic 3D mesh of the character. This can be done using any 3D character modeling software designed for such purposes as Maya, Blender, or MakeHuman.

Creating a basic mesh is not a difficult task, but it does require some knowledge of how to use the software program of your choice. It essentially involves creating the basic shape of your model using large, simple shapes.

This could mean using cubes, cylinders, or any other kind of basic geometric object.

The goal is to get the general proportions and overall form of the model down before moving on to anything else.

One of the benefits of starting with a basic mesh is that it can help you to avoid getting too caught up in the details. It’s easy to get bogged down in small details when you’re first starting, but by focusing on the big picture first, you can make sure that your model is proportionate and looks good.

b) 3D Sculpting

Once you have your basic mesh, it’s time to start refining the shapes and adding details. This is where a lot of the creativity comes in, as you start to bring your sculpture to life. And this is where retopology and 3D sculpting come in.

There are many different ways to approach this stage, but one popular method is to start with the biggest forms first and then work your way down to smaller and smaller details. This can help you avoid getting bogged down in the details too early on.

Of course, there’s no right or wrong way to sculpt your characters – it’s all about whatever works best for you and helps you create the sculpture that you’re envisioning. But one thing to keep in mind as you’re sculpting is the overall proportions of your sculpture.

c) Retopology

Retopology is the process of rebuilding a mesh to improve its structure and topology to make it simpler and easier to work with, especially in the next stages of character modeling like rigging and animation.

You will quickly adjust your mesh without having to start over from scratch.

Retopology is often needed when the mesh has been damaged or when the topology was not created correctly during sculpting and 3D scanning.

For example in the figure below, a horn was created by sculpting out polygons from the sphere. This created some stretch effects that make it hard to sculpt more precise details on the horn.

After applying retopology, the result is shown below:

Retopology can be achieved in different ways in different programs. If one is using Modo, you can use the Automatic Retopology tool. 

If you are using 3Ds Max, they can use the Retopology feature found on the left-hand side of the program as shown below.

In Blender, the retopology feature is found on the top right-hand side of the interface.

4)Character Texturing

One of the most important aspects of creating a believable character is giving them realistic textures.

There are many different methods that you can use to texture your characters. You can use photographs, hand-painted textures, or even scanned textures. Whichever method you choose, make sure that the textures you use are high resolution and seamless.

Once you have your textures, it’s time to start applying them to your model.

The first thing you’ll need to do is UV unwrap your mesh. This will give you a flat representation of your mesh that you can use to apply your textures.

Once your mesh is unwrapped, you can start applying your textures. The most important thing is to make sure that your textures are laid out correctly on your UV map.

Once your textures are applied, you’ll need to add some details to bring your character to life. Things like wrinkles, pores, and stubble can help to sell your character.

6) Character Rigging

After you are done with texturing your 3D model character, the next step is to do rigging.

Rigging is the process of adding bones and joints to a character model so that it can be animated. It is an essential step in the creation of an animated character and can be a very complex process.

There are many two main ways to rig a character: skeletal and muscle.

Skeletal rigging is the process of creating a skeleton for your character, which will be used to control the character’s movements. Muscle rigging is the process of creating a muscle system for your character, which will be used to simulate realistic muscle movements.

Both skeletal and muscle rigging can be done using a variety of software programs. However, it is important to note that not all programs are created equal.

Some programs are better suited for certain types of rigging than others. For example, Maya is a popular program for skeletal rigging, while Blender is a popular program for muscle rigging.

7) Character Animation

Once you are done rigging or creating a skeleton that can be used to control the movement of the character, it’s time now to do the animation

There are three main types of animation:

• Keyframe animation: It is the most basic type of animation, and it involves manually creating each frame of the animation.
• Motion capture: Motion capture is a more advanced technique that involves recording real-world movements and applying them to the characters.
• Hand-drawn animation: This is the most complex type of animation, and it involves drawing each frame of the animation by hand.

Once you’ve decided on the type of animation you want to use, you need to create an animation timeline. This is a timeline that shows the different frames of the animation and how they are supposed to be played back and you can then start animating your characters.

Conclusion

That’s it for our complete guide to 3D character modeling. We hope you found this article helpful and that you now know how to make 3D character models that are beautiful and realistic. If you have any questions or want some advice on where to go next, don’t hesitate to leave a comment below.

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Best free 3D modeling software 
• Best 3D character creator software
• Best 3D animation software
• Best 3D rendering software
• Best 3D sculpting software
• The best CAD software for 3D printing
• Best free 2D CAD software

Key Takeaways

• What is CAD: CAD is the use of computers in the design process of objects, structures and buildings. It is used to create accurate 2D drawings and 3D models.
• Advantages of CAD: CAD improves designers’ productivity, quality and communication. It also allows for easy modification, documentation and collaboration of designs.
• Applications of CAD: CAD is used across a wide range of industries, such as architecture, engineering, construction, product design, graphic design and manufacturing.
• CAD and CAM: CAD is used for design, while CAM is used for manufacturing. They work together to provide more control over the entire process from conceptualization to realization.

Computer-aided design, more commonly known as CAD, is the use of computers in the design process across a wide range of different industries. It is primarily used to create highly accurate 2D and 3D models, but CAD covers all steps in the design process, from creation and modification to analysis and design.

• We also have a ranking of the best CAD software.

CAD is a vital tool as it improves designers’ productivity, quality, and communications, and it can also be used to create a database for manufacturing. CAD software makes it possible to visualize properties such as height, width, distance, color and material, and also to build entire models for any application.

Architecture, construction, engineering, 3D printing, carpentry, and metal fabrication are just a few of the many industries that use CAD. Computer-aided design and drafted (CADD) is a less commonly used variant of the name.

• We also have a ranking of the best architecture software.

That’s a basic rundown of CAD, but there’s plenty more to learn about this important technique. This guide covers everything you need to know about CAD, including its advantages and disadvantages, how CAD works, and its applications.

What is CAD – the Basics

CAD is used to create precise drawings and models of objects and structures, either in 2D or 3D.

CAD was developed as a more accurate, affordable way for designers, engineers and manufacturers to design, visualize and test models while minimizing the chance of mistakes.

As CAD allows for easy modification, documentation and collaboration, it is a far more precise, efficient and faster method than traditional manual drafting. Today, CAD has replaced manual drafting across a wide range of industries.

CAD software takes into account how the various materials involved in a project interact, allowing designers to consider every element in a project, from plumbing to electricity. This results in fewer revisions and a more efficient workflow.

Today, CAD software incorporates cloud technology, providing entire teams with instant, remote access to projects. These advantages mean CAD has had a huge impact on architecture, engineering, and construction, among other industries.

There are many types of CAD software out there, and while they all operate differently, all are based on geometry. Every CAD program has X (horizontal), Y (vertical), and Z (depth) coordinates which allow users to create 2D or 3D models. CAD programs typically use either vector-based graphics or raster graphics to represent drawings and models.

As well as expensive paid-for CAD software used by professionals, there are also free programs that are better suited to students and hobbyists. For example, While AutoCAD is the industry leader and is used by professionals across a wide range of sectors, Blender is a high quality free CAD software that is available to anyone.

CAD History

The early origins of CAD can be traced back to the 1940s and 50s, when various developments made in computer software widened the design-related capabilities of early computers. The term “computer-aided design” was coined in 1959 by MIT researcher Douglas T. Ross.

A turning point came in 1963, when computer scientist Ivan Sutherland developed the world’s first computer graphic program, SKETCHPAD. This program allowed people to graphically interact with a computer by drawing directly onto a CRT monitor with a light pen and marked the beginning of CAD software as we know it.

It wasn’t until the 70s when CAD began being used in industry rather than simply for research purposes, as large automotive and aerospace companies began developing their own software. The CAD program CATIA was developed in 1977, and another major milestone came when John Walker founded Autodesk in 1982.

CAD software continued to grow throughout the 80s and 90s, although it remained restricted mostly to larger companies during this time. CAD became more accessible as personal computers rapidly spread in popularity in the late 90s and 2000s, leading to the development of open-source CAD programs that are available to everyone.

2D & 3D CAD

CAD can be used to create both 2D drawings and 3D models. Some CAD software specialize in one or the other, while other programs are capable of producing high quality 2D and 3D designs.

2D CAD models are flat, two-dimensional drawings and provide the information, such as dimensions and layouts, needed to reproduce or build the subject. These 2D models are commonly used in industries such as architecture, civil engineering, automotive, interior design, landscaping, cartography and fashion.

For example, CAD software is used by architects to create floor plans of buildings and houses, and these floor plans contain most of the information that would be needed to construct the inside of the building. As well as floor plans, CAD can be used to create technical drawings and blueprints, piping and instrumentation diagrams, HVAC diagrams, site and plot plans, electrical schematics, and wiring diagrams.

3D CAD models have similar uses to 2D models, but they provide more detail about the individual components and assemblies of physical; objects and structures. So, 3D models better show how subjects fit together and operate. CAD can be used to create 3D models of almost any kind of structure or object, from buildings to aircraft.

These 3D models are therefore used in a wide variety of industries, such as for creating intricate visualizations in the automotive and manufacturing sectors.

Advantages of CAD

There are a range of benefits that make CAD such a valuable tool across multiple industries. Let’s take a look at the main advantages of CAD.

Accurate, high quality visualizations – The main advantage is that CAD software allows you to visualize designs and projects by creating highly accurate, lifelike 2D and 3D models. It allows for far more accurate designs than physical drawings, making it easy to create complex shapes and surfaces, and it also provides a wide range of tools for creating high quality, visually pleasing drawings and models. This is vital for designers as it allows you to fully test and alter models before bringing your digital design to life in the form of a physical object.

Revisions – CAD allows you to make as many documented changes as you need to your designs in a much easier way than if you were using a pencil and paper. Instead of having to go back to the drawing board if a design doesn’t function as expected, CAD makes it easier to identify errors and solve them before prototypes are made, giving more quality control power and saving both time and money. The best CAD software can even run simulations to test for any problems.

Increased productivity – Designers using CAD can work faster, smarter and cheaper. This is because it removes the need to draw everything by hand, makes for easier edits and allows for accurate testing before developing a prototype. This allows for more efficient work, which in turn means companies can employ less designers, making for an all-round quicker and more affordable design process than traditional methods.

Collaboration – Many designers work as part of a team, so collaboration is key. CAD software makes it incredibly easy to instantly share designs with your colleagues, both in-house and remotely, and each team member can view the design history so that every stage in the process can be worked on collaboratively. Many CAD programs now use cloud technology, so that designs are accessible at all times and don’t even need to be manually shared.

Documentation – CAD software documents every part of the design process, including measurements, angles and dimensions. These properties can be easily reused in future projects, and you can also easily save components and subassemblies for futures designs.

Easier to understand – 3D models can be much easier to understand and comprehend than complex physical sketches. Whereas physical sketches require plan, elevation and side views, CAD software can easily create standardized, organized models and drawings that are easy to understand even to colleagues without a background in design or engineering. This also means that CAD models can be used in marketing and sales pitches to clients as they look impressive and clearly demonstrate the aesthetics and functions of a design.

Realization – As well as improving the design process, using CAD can also accelerate the manufacturing process. By using compatible computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) software, you can easily check the tool paths for CNC machining and input the files in the machines. CAM software creates the required machine code for production based just off the CAD model, providing a much more efficient method than traditional manufacturing processes.

Specialization – CAD is used across a wide variety of industries, and there are specialized programs for almost every sector. This makes it a widely applicable technique.

Disadvantages of CAD

While there are many benefits of using CAD, it isn’t without limitations:

Price – The best CAD software can be costly – thousands of dollars in some cases. This isn’t a problem for companies that are able to save on the cost of the additional team members that would be needed without CAD, but it does mean the best software may not be accessible to beginners and hobbyists.

Hardware – High quality CAD and CAM programs typically require powerful hardware for optimal performance. Again, while this isn’t a problem for larger companies, this expensive hardware isn’t always accessible for individual designers using CAD.

What is CAD Used For?

We’ve already touched on some of the many applications of CAD, but now let’s take a more detailed look at some of the most common and significant uses of CAD software.

Architecture

Architecture is heavily reliant on the creation of complex yet highly accurate drawings and models, so CAD is an invaluable tool to architects. CAD is also useful to architects as certain software, like Revit and ArchiCAD, use BIM workflows to improve productivity. BIM (building information modeling) is a 3D model-based process that allows for more efficient design and construction in architecture projects by incorporating intelligent automation and collaboration tools.

Engineering

CAD is a valuable tool to engineers as it allows them to perfect their designs before building prototypes, and they can also simulate designs to test stress levels, fluid flows and tolerances of projects, among other factors.

It’s used across a wide range of engineering fields, including buildings, infrastructure, telecommunications networks, electrical circuits, thermodynamics and mechanical parts. Like in architecture, engineers use BIM CAD software to help improve structural fabrication, minimize errors and streamline collaboration.

Product Design

CAD software such as Inventor and Fusion 360 help industrial product designers both visualize objects and understand how they will function. For example, CAD is used in car design to conceptualize and render automotive designs.

Graphic Design

Similarly, 2D and 3D CAD software is used by professional graphic designers to create visualizations, as well as add effects, shapes, typography and backgrounds to their visuals.

Construction

In construction, CAD software can be used to simplify blueprints and provide uniform measurements, as well as making adjustments when the project is in process. It can also digitize construction sites and link project information from design to construction.

Other Applications

CAD is also used for the visualization and design of products in a wide variety of other sectors, including city planning, animation, metal fabrication, carpentry, fashion, interior design, game design and manufacturing.

• We also have a ranking of the best animation software.

Manufacturing from CAD

While CAD is used in the design process, it can’t be used to actually create physical objects and structures. For that, you need to use a computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) program along with a manufacturing machine.

CAM uses numeric control software and encodes automated instructions for a machine, such as a 3D printer, CNC router or laser cutter. The best results are achieved when both CAD and CAM are used together, as they provide much more control over the entire process from conceptualization through to realization.

Using CAD

As we’ve previously covered, the availability of high quality free CAD programs means that it’s available to everyone, regardless of budget. That being said, there are a few things you should consider before getting started with CAD yourself.

Firstly, you’ll want to check the number of cores and threads your computer processor has. Some CAD software are best used on processors with multiple cores, while other programs can’t handle them, so knowing this will help you find the best CAD tool for you.

You’ll also want to make sure that you have sufficient random-access memory (RAM) so that you’ll be able to multitask efficiently, like rendering or working with multiple programs at the same time. You should also check that you have a sufficient graphics processing unit (GPU). Your computer’s graphic card is what makes CAD visualization possible, so having a high quality card like a Nvidia or AMD will help you get the most out of your CAD program.

Finally, remember that not all CAD programs are compatible with all operating systems. While some run on Windows, others are only available on Mac, and not every CAD software is available on mobile operating systems.

What is CAD? Conclusion

CAD refers to the use of computers in the design process of objects, structures and buildings. It’s primarily used to create highly accurate 2D drawings and 3D models, but it covers every step in the design process, from conceptualization to testing.

CAD has a wide range of advantages, including high accuracy, unlimited revisions and increased collaboration, that make it valuable to professionals across a wide range of industries, particularly architecture, engineering and construction. There are both paid and free CAD software available, meaning it’s accessible to beginners and hobbyists.

CAD is constantly evolving, with every new version of a particular software bringing new updates and features. Both free and paid programs are becoming more powerful each year, and some tools, such as Autodesk’s Dreamcatcher, are even incorporating AI to further improve the quality and efficiency of the design process. As CAD programs become more advanced, they will open up more possibilities to designers and engineers and become even more important to an ever increasing range of industries.

Key Takeaways

• What is photogrammetry? A technique to get measurements and 3D models from photos.
• How does photogrammetry work? It uses overlapping photos and software to triangulate points and create surfaces.
• What are the types of photogrammetry? Aerial (from aircraft or drone) and terrestrial (from ground camera).
• What are the uses of photogrammetry? It is used for mapping, engineering, forensics, entertainment and more.

Photogrammetry is an important method for obtaining measurements and generating 3D models used across a wide variety of industries, ranging from engineering to sports. It’s also an affordable 3D scanning technique that’s suitable for scanning both small objects and large buildings. But what exactly is photogrammetry, how does it work, and how is photogrammetry used?

In this comprehensive guide, we cover everything you need to know about photogrammetry in 2023.

What is Photogrammetry?

The official photogrammetry definition is “the use of photography in surveying and mapping to ascertain measurements between objects”. Put simply, it’s the science of obtaining measurements from photographs.

Digital photogrammetry originated in 1984 when Ian Dowman proposed it as a way to map the topography or terrain using satellite imagery. However, the origins of its theory can be traced all the way back to Leonardo da Vinci, who in 1480 wrote on how perspective should be incorporated into illustrations by making vanishing points appear smaller and the objects that form out of them larger, as these objects are meant to be closer to the viewer’s eye.

Photogrammetry works by taking a series of photos of an object, structure or landscape from different points or angles. While past decades have seen various methods used to process the images, today photogrammeters process images in photogrammetry software. This software, on either desktop software or a photogrammetry app, calculates measurements and create 3D renderings using the images.

• We also have a separate article ranking the best photogrammetry software.

For example, if you’re a surveyor wanting to chart a landscape, you can mount a camera on an aircraft flying above the landscape and take a photo every few meters. You can then input these photos into a photogrammetry software, which triangulates all photographed points to create an accurate 2D or 3D map of the landscape and generates the distance between points to scale.

Photogrammetry is a technique that’s accessible to beginners, students and hobbyists as well as professionals, due to the presence of high quality free photogrammetry software programs like Meshroom. Photogrammetry can also be used for the cheap 3D scanning of small objects, and even people’s faces.

• We also have a ranking of the best 3D scanners.
• We also have a ranking of the best 3D cameras.

The Photogrammetry Process

So just how does photogrammetry actually work? Well, the first step is to take a series of overlapping photos. With aerial photogrammetry, this is done by a camera taking a series of pictures as it flies along a flight path attached to an aircraft or drone. With terrestrial photogrammetry, this is done by taking photos of an object from a variety of different angles.

Photogrammetry works by using 3D geometry. Every point in your captured image defines a light ray in a 3D space that begins with the camera and extends out to the real point. Photogrammetry software uses the point identified between two or more photos as well as information from the photograph, such as the position and angles of the camera and the camera’s focal length, lens distortion and pixel size.

With this information, your software locates the geometric intersection of the light rays, identifying where the point is located in 3D space. Point matching is the term used to describe finding two or more points on the photos that correspond in the same 3D location, and this can be done manually or automatically. The light rays meeting up is called ray intersection, while the method of using numerous photos for solving points is triangulation.

Ultimately, photogrammetry software uses algorithms to decipher information like camera angles, locations and characteristics from just a few point matches. The software then creates surfaces, lines, texture-maps and full 3D models using the 3D point locations.

Types of Photogrammetry

There are two main types of photogrammetry – aerial and terrestrial. Let’s take a look at each type and how they work.

Aerial Photogrammetry

As the name suggests, in aerial photogrammetry the camera is mounted on an aircraft or drone and is typically pointed vertically towards the ground. Drones are used nowadays, but in the past fixed-wing manned craft and unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) were used. Due to the prevalence of drones in carrying out aerial photogrammetry, it is sometimes simply referred to as drone photogrammetry.

Multiple overlapping photos are taken as the aircraft or drone flies along a flight path. In the past these photos were processed in stereo-plotters – instruments that allow users to see two photos at once in a stereo view – but now they are usually processed using photogrammetry software.

Terrestrial Photogrammetry

Terrestrial photogrammetry, also known as close-range photogrammetry, uses a tripod-mounted or handled photogrammetry camera located on the ground. This type of photogrammetry is usually non-topographic, meaning it’s used to create drawings, 3D models, measurements and point clouds rather than topographic products like terrain models or maps.

Terrestrial photogrammetry can be carried out using an everyday camera, such as the one on your smartphone. It can be used for modeling and measurements across a wide range of industries, including architecture, engineering, forensics, mining, archaeology, entertainment and many more.

As well as being used by professionals, terrestrial photogrammetry is a popular technique among hobbyists. It can be used to scan general objects, people’s faces, and small things around the house, workshop or business, using just a smartphone camera and free photogrammetry software as a 3D scanning app.

Advantages of Photogrammetry

You now have an understanding of the basics of photogrammetry, but what exactly are the benefits that make it a valuable tool across such a wide range of industries?

Here are the main advantages of photogrammetry:

Accurate records – Photogrammetry can produce an actual, permanent photographic record of a particular location or object when capturing an image. As the image has metric properties, it is also a highly accurate, measured record that can be relied on for a variety of projects.

Ease, speed and affordability – it is a much easier, faster, and cheaper way of obtaining measurements and other information than traditional methods. It requires minimal fieldwork, and photogrammetry images can also be used repeatedly for multiple analyses.

3D scanning – Photogrammetry is a useful 3D scanning technique for both small and large objects. It can be used to capture buildings and landscapes which would be impossible to scan otherwise. As photogrammetry software can automatically create 3D models from images, it also provides an easier, cheaper way of scanning than other methods.

Access difficult locations – Aerial photogrammetry can be used to survey locations that are difficult or dangerous to access, limiting the risk to crews while maintaining high levels of accuracy.

Less disruption – it can be used to survey areas, such as roads and cities, with minimal disruption, allowing analysis to be done from the office rather than on the ground.

Simple analysis – the coordinates of each point in the mapping field can be evaluated with minimal effort and cost. Full color models and point clouds are easy to visualize and analyze, which is ideal for presenting information to the public, state, or organizations.

Disadvantages of Photogrammetry

While there are plenty of benefits to using photogrammetry, it isn’t a flawless technique. Here are the limitations of photogrammetry.

Affected by weather – One of the main disadvantages of photogrammetry is that it’s susceptible to poor weather conditions. Rain, fog and wind can affect image quality, while dense vegetation can also obscure the camera’s line of sight.

Environmental restrictions – Terrain and the nature of built environments can restrict the altitude of flight needed to achieve high accuracy and image resolution.

Difficulty of matching points – With low contrast or uniformly textured surfaces, such as sand, water bodies and short grass, it can be difficult to march points between images.

What is Photogrammetry Used For? Uses of photogrammetry

Photogrammetry has a wide range of applications and uses. While it was initially used mostly for topographic mapping, it is now used across a wide range of industries, from land surveying and engineering to forensics and entertainment. Let’s take a closer look at some of the most popular uses of photogrammetry.

Read more: 3D printed topographic map files you can download

Land Surveying

Land surveying involves measuring the shape of land and gathering data for civil engineering and construction projects. It is also used to decide property boundaries and in building planning.

While land surveyors have in the past mostly relied on satellite imagery, photogrammetry is now widely used in this industry. Drone photogrammetry allows surveyors to capture more accurate images of contours and landmasses, so it’s a hugely beneficial technique.

Engineering

Engineers need the most accurate information as possible when building complex buildings or structures. Aerial photogrammetry allows engineers to accurately evaluate sites for construction on a step-by-step basis and produce images of previews or project results for clients. It also allows them to analyze their current progress by creating 3D renderings that preview results.

Forensics

One of the less obvious uses of photogrammetry, forensic scenes are increasingly using this technology to help analyze incidents such as traffic accidents and accidental injury cases. Photogrammetry is useful in these situations as it helps investigators document precise measurements of a crime scene, discovering all the tiny details and accurately present information in court.

Recent years have also seen a surge in photogrammetry experts and lawyers that are skilled in interpreting these photo models for assisting in courts.

Real Estate

Photogrammetry is useful to realtors as it provides a fast, affordable way to create clear and accurate images of homes, meaning they can create attractive and comprehensive listings. It allows potential buyers to view a property clearly from all angles and create a virtual buying experience that hasn’t previously been available in the real estate market.

Film and Entertainment

Photogrammetry can be a useful tool for gaining accurate measurements for set building in films, TV series and video games. Fight Club and The Matrix are just a couple of examples of popular films that used photogrammetry, while it is also used in the Battlefield video game franchise.

Photogrammetry offers bring unique objects like statues, buildings and cityscapes to life in a virtual world. It can be also be used to design special effects and real sets, so it’s an increasingly popular tool in the entertainment industry.

Military Intelligence

Another use of photogrammetry is to aid data gathering in military programs. For example, it allows for the creation of rapid and accurate geo-locational models which are important for understanding a landscape. The military use it to quickly create 3D maps with minimal human input.

Other Applications

Other applications of photogrammetry include:

• Sports, where it’s used to develop virtual training systems by tracking the fine details of body movements.
• Medicine, where photogrammetry can be used with remote sensing technology to provide non-invasive diagnoses.
• Construction and mining, where it’s used to monitor and plan worksites using 3D models.
• Agriculture, where it can be used to provide insights into soil quality, pests and irrigation scheduling.
• Forestry, where it can be used to analyze aspects such as timber volume and height.

Conclusion

Photogrammetry is a technique used across a wide range of industries for obtaining measurements and 3D models from photos. It works by using taking overlapping photos and inputting them into photogrammetry software, which then extracts 2D information about landscapes and objects and uses it to align, texture and mesh images to create a 3D model.

While photogrammetry has a few minor limitations, it is capable of producing highly accurate data, 3D models and an actual, permanent record of a landscape or object in a much easier, faster and more affordable way than traditional methods.