The best free product design tools are FreeCAD and Blender, though they’re very different. FreeCAD is for precise mechanical and industrial product design. But you can use Blender if your product is an organic model or anything that doesn’t need mechanical precision. 

For paid options, there are professional options like Fusion 360, Inventor, Rhino 3D, and Solidworks.

To help you make the right choice, we’ll also cover the main factors to consider when picking software for your product design projects, and some frequently asked questions if you’re just getting into the industry. 

But first, it’s important to clarify that their product design software consists of two different categories.

The Two Types of Product Design Software

There are two types of product design software:

1. CAD
2. 3D software (mesh)

3D software is on the art side, while CAD is on the engineering side. If your product is about aesthetics, you should use 3D software, but if your product is about physical precision, use CAD.

For example, if you’re designing a jar that looks like a rabbit, use 3D software, but if you’re designing gears that fit together, go with CAD. You can also use 3D software in the ideating stage of product design to get a fast and photo-realistic visual of the product.

Many people might tell you they can design with utmost precision in 3D software. But in my experience, 3D software is useless for making precise parts. CAD designs are built with vectors, while 3D software uses meshed surfaces.

The bottom line is that although you can find many photo-realistic engine designs and other product designs that look tremendous in a 3D software, it’s just that. These are designs that artistically look good, but when it comes to actually making that product, they’re nothing more than a good-looking visual.

Best Product Design Software for Artistic Products 

1. Blender – Best Free Software for Artistic Products

• Price: Free
• Compatibility: Windows, Mac, Linux

If you’re looking for the best product design software for art that’s completely free and open source, it’s hard to look past Blender.

Blender is an exceptional free modeling software that’s used for everything from animation and VFX to video editing and product design. However, it’s not CAD, so it can’t be used for product design on the engineering level. 

Available on Windows, Mac & Linux, it provides various designing tools, including 2D sketching and sculpting, with second-to-none renderings for bringing your models to life. 

It also has some nice features for streamlining the product development process. For example, you can use automatic modifiers like the “subdivision surface” modifier to smooth a shape along with tons of other modifiers.

Bear in mind that Blender is a powerful software, and has a steep learning curve – and this is without the support you get with some paid programs, so it can be daunting for beginners. There’s a great community though if you are stuck.

On the other hand, there is also a very active user community around Blender and a marketplace through which you can purchase custom scripts.

2. SketchUp – Best For Interior Designers and Architects 

• Price: Free/Paid
• Compatibility (Desktop Version): Windows, MacOS

SketchUp is the most beginner-friendly software I recommend on this list. It’s a 2D and 3D software that’s more basic than Blender, but is very well-designed and simple to use, so it’s easier to learn. Although many people call it CAD, SketchUp is not CAD –  and you can’t use it for precision-sensitive products.

SketchUp is excellent for architects and interior designers, and it’s much easier to use than CAD software like AutoCAD. You can easily make buildings, walls, rooms with decors and cabinets and even walk inside the model. Woodworkers, beginner animators, cabinet makers, and many more also use SketchUp for its good renders, ease of use, and excellent 3D warehouse.

The 3D warehouse is SketchUp’s library of about 5 million ready models that you can access to import into your designs.

There is an unlimited free version of SketchUp with storage limits, and fewer features than the paid options, but the paid options are also affordable, starting from $95 a year. Subscribers to paid licenses get access to more advanced capabilities such as experience reality headset viewing of your models and 360° panoramic renderings. All paid versions are compatible with iPad, Windows, and Chromebook.

SketchUp is available both online and offline, though the free version is online only. SketchUp is also available on Mac and iPad. The iPad app is a good option if you want to use a stylus for product designing, as few other programs have this functionality.

Best Product Design Software for Engineered Products

3. FreeCAD: Best Free Product Design Software

• Price: free
• Compatibility: Windows, macOS, and Linux

If you’re into product design and don’t want to spend on software, FreeCAD is for you.

It’s a capable 3D parametric modeler, so you can design parts and other engineered products. You can simulate assembly animations and even use its FEM workbench to perform mechanical simulations (like FEA analysis) on your designed parts. 

Another advantage is that since FreeCAD is open source, programmers can add special capabilities to their software with Python programming.

So, what’s the catch? 

For one thing, FreeCAD has a steeper learning curve than similar software like Fusion 360 and SolidWorks. It has a large and active community of users, but the UI itself is not as beginner-friendly.

FreeCAD also doesn’t have an assembly workbench, though there are plugins for it. An assembly workbench is the core of making complicated products that are assembled from many parts, but FreeCAD is not great with large designs. This is part of the reason FreeCAD is not used extensively in the industry. But for indies and designers making simpler products, you can’t argue with extensive design features for free.

Another drawback is that FreeCAD is not good for direct modeling at all. So, if you want to go down that road, you should take a look at Rhino.

4. Fusion 360 – Best Product Design App for Beginner-Level Design 

• Price: free for personal use, $680 yearly, from $85 monthly 
• Compatibility: Windows, MacOS, iOS, Android, Chrome OS

Autodesk’s Fusion 360 is another of the most popular and best 3D product design software on the market. The price has been on the rise for the past two consecutive years. In 2024, it experienced a 25% increase going from $545 to $680. 

But despite this, Fusion 360 is still the best bang for the buck among all CAD (except FreeCAD, which is free). 

As is typical of Autodesk software, Fusion 360 is well-designed and very intuitive, which makes it a favorite of both hobbyists and professionals alike. There are also loads of tutorials and guides online to help you get started. 

Plus, as it’s cloud-based it’s ideal for collaboration. It also offers a high-quality iOS app that supports over 50 different 2D & 3D CAD formats, so it’s perfect for designing on your iPad.

It’s a multi-functional program built for CAD, CAM, CAE, and PCB modeling operations within a single design suite, usable for every step in the product design and manufacturing workflow.

However, although Fusion’s design tools are as advanced as mid-level CADs like SolidWorks, Fusion 360 is not as robust for larger assemblies. So, if you’re designing products with many parts, Inventor or SolidWorks are better. 

Fusion 360’s base version offers a wide range of advanced design and 3D modeling tools for creating high-quality, precise products and then simulating them in 3D to test against real-world conditions. However, if you’re really serious about product design, you should also consider the Fusion 360 Product Design Extension.

This is fairly costly at $72 a month, but offers a variety of features designed to automate and simplify the product design process, so it can help to improve both the efficiency and accuracy of your work.

5. Autodesk Inventor – Best for Mechanical Product Design

• Price: from $318 a month
• Compatibility: Windows

While Fusion 360 is more of a general-purpose CAD/CAM software, Inventor is specifically tailored to mechanical design, so it’s a popular option among professional engineering designers for industrial design. This is an excellent mid-level CAD for product design, and offers better value for money than its rival SolidWorks.

This is a powerful and flexible software that offers a mix of parametric, direct, freeform and rules-based design, so it’s perfect for designing complex shapes for mechanical parts.

On top of that, it has a range of integrated tools for designing things like sheet metal, cables, and piping. Thanks to the DWG compatibility and model-based definition capabilities, manufacturing information is embedded directly into your designs.

Inventor allows you to simulate your designs in real-world conditions and optimize accordingly, and it has built-in collaboration tools allowing for easy feedback from colleagues and stakeholders.

There are also a variety of tools designed to streamline workflows and improve efficiency. For example, you can use the iLogic feature to automate tasks, and you can use the Forge Design Automation API for processing jobs in the cloud.

Another benefit of using Autodesk software like Investor is that it’s integrated with other Autodesk programs, like Fusion 360 and AutoCAD, so you can combine the capabilities of each.

6. Rhino 3D – Best CAD for Product Designs Combining Aesthetics and Precision 

• Price: from $995 for perpetual license 
• Compatibility: Windows, Mac

Rhino 3D is a well-known product design and 3D modeling software that’s been on the market for over 20 years. It’s one of the most unique CADs out there. 

We said earlier in the article that you should use 3D software for aesthetics, and CAD for precision. What if you wanted both? Then you should use Rhino because it’s a perfect mix of CAD and flexible artistic capabilities. 

Unlike other CAD software on this list, Rhino focuses on direct modeling and NURBS surfaces. This relieves the user from the grip of “constraints” and allows Rhino to offer tremendous tools for freeform modeling. The user can treat the model like forming clay.

Rhino’s Grasshopper tool also allows node-based limited parametric modeling. Therefore, Rhino’s flexibility for artistic design combines with the precision of CAD. This is a perfect mix for tons of product designers. However, it also means that Rhino is not a great tool for complex mechanical parts.

So, if you’re designing toys, jewelry, surface boards, or anything that’s not mechanically too complex yet looks beautiful, Rhino is your friend. It’s no surprise that Rhino is very popular among jewelers.

Other 3D modeling techniques used in this software include point clouds, subdivision geometry, and polygon meshes (bear in mind this means the software is not suited to 2D designing). As well as modeling, Rhino 3D can be used for high-quality rendering, animations, drawing, and product documentation.

There are many examples of Rhino 3D being used for product design online, for example, here’s some for designing a hairdryer, computer mouse, and an iron. Rhino has an active user community, where you can engage with other users, get help and learn how to carry out different functions with the program, and check out other users’ creations.

7. Solidworks – Industry-Standard for Mid-Level Product Design 

• Price: Starting from about $3,995 to about $8,000 for perpetual license

Solidworks is one of the best-known CAD and CAE software for industrial designers, and is used by professionals around the world to create everything from airplane parts to medical devices.

The Solidworks manufacturing design software is part of Dassault Systemes’ 3DExperience platform. This is a collaborative environment that aims to simplify the design process and increase innovation through a variety of ways. 

It provides all the design tools you need, from conceptualization through to modeling, including easy-to-use sketching tools, integrated and free-form parametric modeling, direct editing that transforms both native and imported geometry, and unrivaled renderings that provide realistic depictions of how your products will look.

Solidworks then aims to bring teams together on its cloud platforms, so you can easily collaborate and collect stakeholder concept feedback, with all data stored securely and available anywhere. 

Despite being one of the most advanced software for product design, Solidworks is also one of the best-designed, with a very user-friendly interface. It also has a buzzing user community – one downside is it’s unavailable on Mac and Chromebook. 

Another major drawback for SolidWorks is its price. It’s the most expensive of the mid-level CAD software.

What Can You Do With Product Design Software?

• Precise designs that are compatible with all manufacturing machines like 3D printers, CNC machines, laser cutters, molds, etc.
• Complete control over every structural and aesthetic aspect of your products. 
• Create unlimited revisions, all of which are saved and reflected instantly in models. 
• View designs in photorealistic renderings & simulate them in real-world conditions. 
• Automate and simplify the design process to improve efficiency.
• Easily share projects and collaborate with colleagues and clients. 

While free and cheap programs typically have more limited tools for industrial design, you also have software like Blender which is completely free and open-source, yet very advanced.

So, you need to take a deep dive into a program’s capabilities to see if it’s suitable for you. As an example, let’s look at Blender in comparison to Solidworks, one of the most expensive and best software for product design.

While both are very high quality, there are some fundamental differences between the two (aside from price). 

Blender uses mesh-based 3D modeling, while Solidworks uses parametric modeling. This means Blender is better for creating organic models, while Solidworks is better for mechanical drawing and manufacturing using defined parameters and constraints.

Product design is a very varied and wide-ranging process, and what you can do with software isn’t solely defined by how much cash you can spend, so make sure you really explore a program’s capabilities before signing up.

How To Pick

CAD or Mesh?

This is the most important thing to consider – and is all about precision. 

3D mesh software like Blender is perfect for organic models and any design where aesthetics are more important than precision. However, if you’re designing mechanical products for manufacturing, then you should use CAD.

Compatibility

While most software runs on Windows, if you’re using Mac, iOS, Android, or Chromebook, you’ll need to make sure a product development platform supports your operating system before signing up. Some programs, like SketchUp and Fusion 360, are available on all major operating systems. 

Features & Functionality

The most important step is finding a product design software solution that has the capabilities you need. 

Are you looking for both 2D and 3D design? Do you want to use organic models, like in Blender, or parametric models, like in Solidworks? Are you looking for a program like Fusion 360 that supports CAD and CAM as well as CAE and PCB? These are the types of questions you need to ask yourself. 

Rendering Quality 

Every designer wants high-quality 3D renderings that bring their models to life in photorealistic quality, and this is especially important to pros. However, the better the graphics and rendering, typically the higher the cost. This isn’t always the case, as Blender is free and has high-quality rendering, but other top rendering programs like Solidworks come at a pretty high cost.

Software like SketchUp also offers options like panoramic and interactive augmented reality renderings which can provide different perspectives on your designs. 

Usability & Training

This is especially important for beginners, as many product design software are complex and have a steep learning curve. If you’re new to product design, look for software that are designed to be user-friendly, offer support and training, and have active user communities where you can more through forums. 

SketchUp is one of the most beginner-friendly product design software, while Fusion 360 is another intuitive program that can be quicker to learn than others like Rhino 3D.

Budget & Free Trial

As you can see from our reviews, the price for top product design software varies widely, and many programs have various license options with different features. Luckily, there are some free options like Blender and SketchUp, and the majority of paid programs offer free trials, so it’s always recommended to use this and thoroughly test the software before you drop a large amount of money.

FAQs

Related posts:

• Best Open-Source CAD Software & Active Communities
• What is CAD? Common Questions Answered
• Free 3D Printing CAD Software For Beginners and Experts
• Car and Automotive Design Software (2D and 3D)
• Free Furniture Design Software

However, AutoCAD lacks in some areas, such as 3D modeling, its weak Linux support, and how expensive it is: as of writing, AutoCAD is $1,975 per year, and AutoCAD LT is $490 per year.

In my opinion, there are several free alternative programs for hobbyists that, while not as robust as AutoCAD, still do a perfectly acceptable job.

Why Trust Us?

I have extensively tested all of the following programs (and many that didn’t make the list) during my years of professional engineering, so you can save time finding the top free program for you.

That said, here are the criteria we used to determine whether or not a free, similar software to AutoCAD made the list:

How We Picked

• It has to be either completely free, or at least free to try.
• It has to support DWG and DXF file types. 
• It should have a high level of user support through tutorials, active forums, or detailed wikis.
• Bonus points if it supports Linux.

1. DoubleCAD: Best for Architects and Interior Designers

• Price: Free

If you want a free alternative to AutoCAD LT, look no further than DoubleCAD. It’s the best free software for professional 2D design. DoubleCAD is ideal for architects, interior designers, and anybody with professional 2D design needs.

If you’re familiar with AutoCAD, the transition to DoubleCAD is pretty easy since the program logic and commands are similar. There are also helpful tutorials and forum threads to walk you through the process.

Although DoubleCAD is not as powerful as AutoCAD’s full version, it is as capable as AutoCAD LT. Some users even like some of DoubleCAD’s tools better than their AutoCAD counterparts.

DoubleCAD has specialized architecture tools for editing walls, doors, and windows. So, it’s geared toward the same audience as AutoCAD: architects and interior designers.

However, DoubleCAD only works on Windows, so you can’t use it on MacOS or Linux.

2. NanoCAD: Best for Small Businesses

• Price: Free to use, even commercially, but there is a $200 USD per year paid version.

While DoubleCAD is the best alternative to AutoCAD LT, NanoCAD is the best free alternative to AutoCAD’s full version. 

In fact, NanoCAD followed AutoCAD’s design theory so closely that you could be forgiven for mistaking one for the other. Thus, if you have previous AutoCAD experience, you’ll have no trouble using NanoCAD.

The logic behind the features such as the snapping tools are not as precise as AutoCAD, but once you learn them, NanoCAD is a pretty powerful free software. 

You can register NanoCAD with your e-mail for free and use it commercially, with no hidden paywalls. Though, there are plenty of 3rd party add-ons that you can buy. Developers have created add-ons that bring more functionality, bringing great scalability to the software. 

For example, designers can use 3D Solid Modeling add-on to bring parametric modeling and direct modeling capabilities to NanoCAD for $199 per year. 

Or, architects can pay for the Construction add-on to get access to many AEC tools, parametric objects, architectural layouts, and more, for $199 per year.

While these add-ons aren’t essential to the main software functionality, you may want to buy one of these add-ons to enhance your designs in a specific area.

So, technically as there are optional add-ons, the base program is still completely free. It’s an effective free alternative to paid software like AutoCAD – and it’s free if you don’t buy the add-ons.

3. LibreCAD: Best for Hobbyists

• Price: Completely free and open source. It’s GPLv2, so it’s free to hack and copy.

LibreCAD is a good choice if you’re looking for an effective 2D CAD program. 

However, LibreCAD is focused on ease of use and simplicity, and not advanced features. For professional 2D drafting and documentation, you should use DoubleCAD or NanoCAD.

LibreCAD is a great pick for someone who is looking to generate geometry for a CNC router, laser cutter, waterjet cutter, vinyl cutter, or any other CNC application that doesn’t require a 3D model. One of the main reasons I recommend LibreCAD for 2D designing for CNCs is its emphasis on layers. 

Anyone who has used a similar CAD program can attest to the value of being able to create and organize different layers in their drawings. LibreCAD does this very well and helps you organize your drawings. 

For example, you’ll draw the axes in one layer, the centerlines in another layer, and parts in a separate one. Entities can inherit attributes like color from their layer. Just like AutoCAD, you can assign line type, line weight, and color for layer entities in LibreCAD.

One of the things you’ll notice right after installation is the ability to change units of measurement and languages. It’s a small detail, but it’s strong evidence of the mentality behind the program. Not just free. Not just open source. But, also, widely usable to a broad audience. They have somehow managed to get the program translated into over thirty languages: an impressive feat.

Another small function I love is the right-click history menu. Right-click in the viewport window and you’ll be presented with a list of the last few tools that you used. While this is not a groundbreaking feature, it is certainly a nod in the direction of the ease of use that LibreCAD is built around.

You can see an example in my screenshot below:

4. FreeCAD: Best for 3D Modelers

• Price: FreeCAD is completely free and open source.

It’s literally in the name: FreeCAD’s mission statement is to provide an always-free, open-source CAD software. And they’ve done a wonderful job. 

Geared toward 3D design, FreeCAD is superior to AutoCAD in 3D parametric modeling. It has plenty of features for 3D tools that AutoCAD simply doesn’t have, such as the extensive toolset in the Parts Workbench, and compatibility with mechanical engineering software like Nastran. 

But what about 2D drafting? I hear you ask.

FreeCAD’s Draft Workbench is good enough to replace AutoCAD, but FreeCAD can’t save or open AutoCAD’s DWG files. So, you can’t use FreeCAD as a direct AutoCAD alternative for working on DWG files.

One of the excellent features that you’ll find in FreeCAD is their utilization of workbenches. Workbenches are tools, organized by the tasks that they are related to. It adds a level of nimbleness to the program that I promise you will be grateful for. For example, the Draft workbench has all the tools for 2D drawing, the Arch workbench has architectural tools, and the Surface workbench gives you tools for creating surfaces.

One of the biggest hurdles to overcome when learning any new CAD software is the overwhelming amount of tool options presented to you. Workbenches are an effective way to reduce those options to the ones that matter most for your specific project. FreeCAD’s popularity means there’s a huge amount of user support. Not only is there an active forum and a well-curated wiki, but there’s also a large selection of YouTube training videos. In addition, the makers of FreeCAD have put together tutorials, as well as a CAD manual under the Creative Commons 4.0 license that is free to be used, downloaded, copied and modified. They’re even working on a printed version.

5. Autodesk Fusion 360: Best for CAD/CAM Use

• Price: Fusion 360 is free to use, but requires a $60 USD monthly subscription if used commercially.

Fusion 360 is a powerful 3D software focused on modeling, so it’s not a good replacement for AutoCAD if you’re an architect. However, if you need drafting for 3D printing a part or CNC machining, Fusion 360 is an excellent tool.

It’s honestly amazing that Fusion 360 is available to use for free. Personally, I use it almost every day. Fusion 360 can be used for anything from part design, sketches, and prints, to highly complex assemblies. It even has native CAM features also, if you’re looking to CNC mill parts you design.

For example, when my kids come home from school, they hang their backpacks on hooks that we designed and 3D printed together. A few days ago, my son, who is getting into video game design, came to me and asked if I could help him model a Warhammer for his game. With Fusion 360, we designed the 3D printed brackets that hold up the shelves his 3D printed miniatures are on. 

I could go on with these stories all day, but the point is, if you have any interest in 3D printing, part design, or anything at all to do with 3D modeling, then go download Fusion 360. You won’t regret it.  

Fusion 360 is a feature-filled powerhouse that just so happens to be made by Autodesk, the same company that makes AutoCAD. While its emphasis is on 3D modeling, its 2D capabilities are perfectly capable of handling most applications.

While it may not be as beginner friendly as some of the programs on this list, there are a huge range of online tutorials, including those by Autodesk themselves. And, if you’ve ever used Solidworks before, you’ll pick up Fusion 360 extremely quickly.

6. Sketchup Free: Browser-Based CAD for Beginners

• Price: Sketchup Free is free to use non-commercially. The cheapest commercial version is $119 USD a year.

SketchUp Free is an excellent tool that many architects, interior designers, woodworkers, and hobbyists use instead of AutoCAD because it’s better than AutoCAD in some aspects. However, this depends on your needs since there are serious differences between SketchUp and AutoCAD.

For starters, SketchUp is much easier to use than AutoCAD. Beginners will start modeling much faster in SketchUp and they will be able even to make animations. Meanwhile, beginners will have to spend more time learning AutoCAD’s commands and user interface.

Another area where SketchUp is better than AutoCAD is its 3D warehouse, where you can access over 4.8 million ready designs. You can unlock its full capabilities in SketchUp’s paid version but even the free version allows limited access to the 3D warehouse. 

Another excellent feature is SketchUp’s Walk tool. You can walk through your model as the camera shows the model through your perspective. For example, you can design a kitchen and walk through it virtually to see the design. Interior design is easier with SketchUp for these reasons.

However, AutoCAD is for professionals and SketchUp can’t fill its place in many areas. The main difference is that SketchUp is a surface modeler, while AutoCAD performs parametric modeling. This means that when you need precision, scaling, and complexity, you can’t use SketchUp. AutoCAD is more robust and is the industry standard for complex projects.

7. OpenSCAD: Best for Non-Traditional Modeling 

• Price: Free software released under GPLv2

OpenSCAD throws convention out the window and tries to re-invent the way that people use CAD. Instead of clicking a UI with your mouse and drawing geometry, you program the part using code: you literally type the OpenSCAD scripting language into the text editor. 

So, for instance, to make a 10 side length cube you type: cube(10).

To be clear, there is no advantage to this method of modeling. It’s not faster, and there’s no scripting to automate design like you can with programming scripts, for example with Python.

However, if you’re a programmer by trade who has no CAD experience, you might be drawn to this style of CAD modeling.

Personally, I never want to CAD model like this, but I’ve included it in this list because many people enjoy this different and unique way of CAD modeling. To those people, I salute you and wish you all the best in your endeavors. 

I dove fairly deep into some OpenSCAD tutorials online, and they did a good job of covering the basics. So, if you’re curious about programming to create CAD drawings, there’s some good resources out there I recommend to learn. There is a decent little library of books dedicated to OpenSCAD, but none of them are free. There’s also the OpenSCAD cheat sheet which is helpful to refer to.

Other related articles:

• The best free CAD software
• The best free 2D CAD software
• The best Fusion 360 alternatives
• Best Thingiverse alternatives

That’s what we reveal in this guide, where we review the top PCB design software tools out there to help you find the right match – and we have specific recommendations based on your current needs.

If you’re after the best overall PCB design software, few programs rival Altium Designer, but expect to pay for the pleasure.

For those on a tighter budget, KiCad comes in a close second, but is 100% free with no limitations and full functionality.

EasyEDA is a popular pick among designers, that is if you don’t mind the occasional ad.

And Upverter is arguably the best option for first timers or educators looking for a shallow learning curve and easy introduction to PCB design.

1. Altium Designer – Overall Best PCB Design Software on Windows, Most Popular Among Professionals 

• Price: from $330 per month

Altium Designer is one of the most popular PCB board software on the market and is used by engineers across the world, including those working for leading tech companies like Amazon, Facebook, Dell, Microsoft, and Arduino. 

Altium provides a truly unified, photorealistic 3D design environment, with a single view of every step of the PCB design process. Having all the design tools and documentation across one intuitive platform really helps to streamline your design workflow.

The interactive routing tools allow you to route PCB layouts from any angle at fast speeds, while the Layer Stackup feature helps to reduce noise and improve signal timing even on highly complex circuit boards.

Other impressive features include the Variant Manage for creating unique versions of your PCBs based on global market demands, a Manufacturer Part Search that simplifies the component creation process to reduce design time, and the Real Time BOM Management tool that lets you manage components, suppliers, and sourcing data.

Altium Designer is also cloud-based and one of the best PCB layout design software for collaboration, as you can share and review designs on any device with an internet connection. 

On top of that, it’s great for collaborating with mechanical teams thanks to its seamless integration with tools like Solidworks, Fusion 360, and PTC Creo, with every design change synced between programs.

Overall, it’s probably the most comprehensive and highest quality PCB design solution money can buy. The only downside is it’s only available on Windows.

2. KiCad – Best Free PCB Design Software

KiCad is free, which makes it worth considering out of the gate. But with over three decades of development and countless improvements over the years, it’s a powerful PCB design tool that rivals many of the paid options. Suitable applications include single-board computers, motor controllers, custom mechanical keyboards, drones, smartwatches, low-power cameras, and much more.

KiCad features a schematic editor, suitable for everything from simple designs all the way to complex multi-sheet projects. The editor also has an integrated SPICE simulator for testing the viability of circuits before porting them to the real world. Alongside, there’s a robust PCB layout editor with a 3D and Gerber viewer, DRC scripting support, and support for designs from CAD software like EAGLE and the Altium suite.

Beyond the stacked selection of standard tools, KidCad accepts plug-ins, allowing you to adapt the software to your needs with options such as mechanical keyboard design, on-board designs, RF, and much more. 

These plugins are supplemented by a vibrant community, meaning you’re never too far from finding a fix should you encounter any issues. The UI isn’t quite as appealing as other options, but remains simple enough to not overwhelm beginners and feature-rich enough to satisfy even the most demanding PCD designers.

3. EasyEDA – Best Browser-Based PCB Design Software

In a nod to accessibility, EasyEDA dodges the need for a beefy PC to create and render PCB designs with a browser-based option that works whether you’re on Windows, Mac, Linux, or even a smartphone. But this dedication to convenience and the fact it’s cloud-based doesn’t come at the expense of functionality. 

It’s a fully-fledged PCB design suite with a host of features. These include a PCB design editor, schematic capture, 3D viewer, dimension checker, integrated team collaboration tools, an auto router, project and design management tools, and a heaped library of designs to inspire and kick start projects.

In our opinion, EasyEDA is a solid option for beginners and intermediate designers looking to power a range of projects thanks to a simple and intuitive UI. Possible applications include single board computers, microchips,  motherboards, Raspberry Pi add ons, and much more. Though adoption is quite as big as other big name PCB design options, the EasyEDA is reasonably large, with tutorials, guides, and support to help you make the most of the software.

If the browser version isn’t for you, there’s also a standalone version. EasyEDA is available in two tiers – a free version supported by ads and a paid professional/enterprise, that’s ad free and features improved collaboration tools and customer support. EasyEDA also features LCSC parts and JLCPCB PCB ordering, so you can turn your project into a physical PCB quickly and efficiently.

4. Upverter – Best PCB Design Software for Students and Education

Upverter is a browser-based program that’s mainly aimed at introducing students to the PCB design. Electronics and PCB design can be complex, but Upverter aims to simplify the process, starting with one of the simplest and cleanest user experiences and UIs out there. It’s also modular with a drag and drop design, making it intuitive for beginners with no prior knowledge of the subject.

Under the hood, it houses all the functionality you’d expect – schematics, PCB design, 3D viewer, automated routing, and collaboration tools. There’s also a quickstart template library with hundreds of boards to choose from, ideal for starting a project, especially in an educational context. And, should you want to bring your designs to life, there’s an integrated hassle-free manufacturing option for your custom-made PCBs, which are tested before delivery.

The focus on ease of use is bettered by a library of free teaching resources and lessons that help students learn and understand fundamental concepts of PCB design and complete their first project.

While Upverter is an ideal starting point for students and beginners, it lacks the advanced functionality of other options. Experienced designers may find the offering a little too light for advanced projects and will be better off choosing a more robust suite such a KiCad.

5. DipTrace – Best Easy-to-use- Advanced PCB Design Software

Designed by Novarm, DipTrace aims to bring full PCB design options and functionality while keeping the experience simple and intuitive. It’s one for advanced users that want the ease of use of a drag-and-drop modular system that can bring to life complex, robust PCB designs for applications such as single board computers, consumer products, educational projects, and much more.

DipTrace bundles in all the typical functionality – schematics, PCB layout design with autorouting, Gerber output, and real-time DRC, 3D modeling viewer, and a stacked library full of editing tools, templates, over 160,000 packaged components, and over 10 million parts. The program also features advanced rule verification, including SPICE export and simulation to ensure your work is fit for purpose.

If you stumble into any issues, DipTrace comes with some of the best support options on the market and a thriving community that has pieced together a huge archive of guides and videos to help you troubleshoot any issues.

DipTrace is license based with quite a few buying options, the cheapest of which is the DipTrace starter at $75, which include 300 pins and 2 signal layers. Students and educational institutions can get DipTrace Lite (capped at 500 pins and 2 signal layers) for free. 

There’s also a non-profit version that’s 100% free but limited to 500 pins and 2 signal layers, rising to $350 for unlimited functionality. For the full fat version for commercial use with unlimited pins and signal layers, expect to pay around $1000.

6. LibrePCB – Best Open Source PCB Design Software

LibrePCB aims to deliver free, open source, and easy-to-use PCB design for everyone from students and hobbyists to experts and professional designers. There are no strings, restrictions, or caveats, you get full functionality at zero cost whatever your skill level or the project.

One of the major highlights is the simple, intuitive, and easy-to-learn user interface, which removes a steep learning curve with a logical layout that’s easy to navigate even if you’re using PCB design software for the first time. Basic tasks are easy to perform, but advanced features are only a few clicks away, ensuring you can get designing quickly but won’t be limited down the line as you develop your design skills.

LibrePCB features a detailed schematics editor, PCB board editor, and a built-in library manager pooled from LibrePCB’s official libraries and third-party component libraries. The integrated LibrePCB Fab service also allows for easy PCB ordering through Aisler with a portion of profits fed back into the development of the program. 

It does lack a 3D visualizer, which feels like a missed opportunity given it’s become almost a standard feature and one most PCB design software offers. Due to a limited LibrePCB user base, guides, tutorials, and videos are less prevalent than other competing options, but the simplicity of the design process means you should get by without needing much support.

7. Eagle – Best Free PCB Design Software for Mac & Linux

Fusion 360 is a popular CAD, CAM, CAE, and PCB software from Autodesk. It ships with its own circuit board design software, called Fusion 360 Electronics. But thanks to the buyout of CadSoft, the original developer, Fusion 360 now comes with a standalone PCB design program called Eagle. You’ll need a Fusion 360 subscription to use Eagle.

Eagle is a fairly straightforward tool that has all the features you need to make PCB designs. The schematic editor has a SPICE simulator that allows you to quickly test ideas, as well as electronic rule checks to validate circuit performance. The modular design blocks use a simple drag-and-drop method that you can use to add blocks to different projects. 

The PCB layout tools are similarly intuitive, with helpful alignment tools and real-time synchronization to ensure your schematic and layout designs are always in sync. It uses interactive push and shove routing with obstacle avoidance features and tools for completing loop removal, cornering, and other functions quickly.

Autodesk offers fantastic support and learning resources for Eagle, and it’s one of the most widely compatible CAD PCB software, being available on Mac, Windows, and Linux. 

Plus, as it’s technically part of Fusion 360, you have seamless integration with a vast array of advanced CAD, CAM, and CAE tools, making it a great all-in-one solution for many electrical engineering applications.

Bear in mind that the free version of Eagle is limited in comparison to the paid version (only two sheet and two signal layers design, which is used by many professional PCB design companies. With the paid Eagle software for PCB you’re not limited to the two schematic sheets, two signal layers, or the 80 cm squared board area that you get in the free version.

Free PCB Layout Software Options

8. CircuitMaker – Best Free PCB Design Software for Beginners & Windows

CircuitMaker is a free and easy PCB design software developed by Altium, which also provides some of the top industrial PCB software (more on that later).

It boasts the same intuitive interface and sleek design as Altium’s professional solutions, making it one of the best PCB software for beginners and hobbyists. It allows you to design with up to 16 signal and 16 plane layers, with no limits on dimensions. You can create up to five projects.

CircuitMaker is very community-driven, and the community library has hundreds of thousands of components you can use completely free. All you need to do to add components is search by manufacturer part number or design parameters, and then place them in your design.

You can share and collaborate on projects with other community members, which can be a great way to develop your PCB design skills. Plus, any designs released to the community can be reused as base templates and then modified, so you don’t need to start from scratch for every project.

CircuitMaker allows you to view your PCB layouts in full 3D, provides highly intuitive push-and-shove routing, an easy-to-use schematic editor, and a topological autorouter to help speed up designs, making it one of the best free PCB software on the market for both beginners and experienced hobbyists.

9. Fritzing – Best Open Source PCB Software 

Fritzing is a open source CAD software for PCBs. It’s completely free to use, and unlike CircuitMaker, Fritzing doesn’t limit how many projects you can make with it.

On the flip side, it doesn’t boast the same sleek design and intuitive environment of some other PCB software, so it can take a fair while to get used to. However, it does offer a range of great tools for making PCB layouts, and there are some helpful learning resources to get started with.

Fritzing is probably the most community-based PCB design software on the market. You can get an idea of what you can do with the program by checking out other users’ projects, which include some really interesting and creative things like a soil humidity measurer, musical note detector, a motion sense, and even the famous Snake game – all created using the PCB layout software.

There’s also a forum where you can open discussions and interact with other users, and if you’re a programmer you can use the source code to help fix bugs and develop your own features. So if you’re looking for the best open source PCB software, Fritzing is the one for you.

Best Paid Software for PCB Layout Design

10. PADS – Powerful Circuit Board Designer for Professionals & Startups

• Price: from $5,000 

Another of the best circuit design software is PADS, developed by Siemens Digital Industries Software.

One of the great things about PADS is that it offers several different solutions to suit teams with different budgets and experience levels. For starters there’s PADS Standard, which starts at $5,000 (including support) and provides the core schematic and PCB layout tools in an intuitive environment. 

The next step up is PADS Standard Plus, which comes with advanced layout capabilities as well as simulation and analysis tools. 

Then you have PADS Professional, a self-contained and integrated schematic PCB design software. This version is compatible with Xpedition technology and is designed to support the entire design and verification pipelines for PCB and hardware engineers, while also providing additional collaborative features.

Finally there’s PADS Professional Plus, the most advanced solution that boasts integrated data management, component research, and real-time sourcing tools.

PADS even hosts a unique program that can provide eligible startups with discounted access to PADS Profesional, which is certainly worth considering if you have a young business that relies on layout PCB software.

11. OrCAD – Dynamic PCB Software Used by Apple, Free for Students 

• Price: Upon quote

OrCAD is one of the best EDA software suites for PCB design. Developed by Cadence PCB Solutions, OrCAD is one of the most powerful, reliable, and comprehensive PCB tools on the market and is used by engineers at Apple and other leading companies.

This program offers all the tools you need to create precise PCB layouts efficiently. It offers real-time design insights, including route, placement, coupling, and impedance analysis, to help speed up prototype to production. These helpful tools remove the need to perform post-design DFM checks which can end up causing much more work if errors are spotted after the design process.

Another benefit of OrCAD is the dynamic differential pair routing, which makes it easy to meet length and phase pin-to-pin constraints because traces can bend without causing any electrical issues. You can switch between 2D and 3D in this software’s highly intuitive and interactive environment, allowing you to examine each aspect of your layouts.

These features only touch the surface of what’s on offer at OrCAD. With a customizable interface, manufacturability checks, schematic capture and simulation, data management, collision detection, and Pspice design tools, it’s one of the most comprehensive PCB design software out there.

You can also migrate your PCB designs to OrCAD from other popular programs like Altium, Eagle, and PADS, with guides on how to do so for each different software.

Finally, there’s also the OrCAD Academy. This allows you to download and use the software for free if you’re a student, and there are also plans for teachers and universities.

Buying Guide – Things to consider when choosing PCB design software 

Wondering what makes a good PCB software? Here are the key factors to consider when conducting a PCB design software comparison.

Compatibility

The first thing you need to check when considering a printed circuit board design software is what operating systems it’s compatible with. For example, if you’re looking for a PCB software for Linux or Mac, you can’t use a program like Altium (which is among the most popular PCB software out there) as it’s only available on Windows. Luckily, programs like Eagle are available on Mac and Linux as well as Windows.

If you’re looking for an online PCB designer that doesn’t require download there aren’t many options, though EasyEDA is one solution.

Price & Budget

The cost of the best PCB software varies greatly, from free programs like CircuitMaker to professional solutions like Altium Designer that cost more than $300 a month. There are also the likes of Eagle, which have limited free versions and unlimited paid versions.

Luckily, the top programs from our PCB design software list like Altium and OrCAD offer free trials, so you can use these to try them out before committing to hefty fees.

Design, Usability & Training

There’s no denying that some software are better designed and easier to use than others, and it’s often the more professional paid solutions that are the most intuitive. For example, if you compare an open-source program like Fritzing PCB design software to a professional program like Altium, the latter is noticeably better laid out, has a sleeker design, and is much more intuitive.

Features & Quality 

All the PCB software we’ve reviewed generally offer the same core layout and schematic design features, but the quality varies a lot depending on the program. For example, the 3D renderings offered by professional solutions like Altium are considerably higher quality than those you get in free programs.

There’s also variation in the quality and availability of other features, such as schematic simulation, component sourcing, data management, autorouting, design insights and checking, and collaborative tools. 

For example, OrCAD offers a great range of real-time insight tools that help reduce the need to post-design checks and can help improve efficiency, while PADS Professional Plus and Altium Designer offer a wide variety of component sourcing, data management, and supplier research tools that you don’t get with free programs. So, make sure you check that a PCB program offers the features you need before jumping in.

Who Uses PCB Design Software?

PCB design software and circuit design tools are primarily used by engineers to create printed circuit boards for use in a wide variety of consumer and commercial electronics. 

Commercial electronic products that use PCB boards include smartphones, tablets, computers, and home appliances like fridges and microwaves. Industrially, PCBs are used in medical devices, LEDs, automotive and aerospace components, telecoms devices, security equipment, and maritime and military applications.

Aside from engineers, the other major users of PCB software are teachers, who teach PCB design to students in schools, colleges, and universities. 

Downsides to PCB Software

One thing to know before jumping into PCB design is that it’s a pretty complex task, and most PCB design tools have a fairly steep learning curve. So, expect to spend some time learning and reading or watching tutorials before you can start designing PCBs.

The best software for PCB design is also expensive, with the top programs costing hundreds of dollars per month. While this isn’t an issue for engineering companies, it does mean that starting out in PCB design or doing it as a hobby can be pretty costly. 

FAQs

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Overall, I found it very easy to use, it has generous free limits (though I upgraded to the premium version), and generated high-quality 3D scans using its clever AI features that remove background artifacts.

KIRI Engine Pros and Cons

Pros

• Full access to scanning capabilities, even in the free version
• Available for both iOS and Android
• Easy-to-use UX
• No artifacts or noise in scans
• Color scans
• Active Discord with responsive founding team
• Web version for desktop editing, and use with DSLR cameras or drones

Cons

• Limit of 3 weekly scans on free version
• No in-app scan editing tools, you’ll need to use ZBrush, Meshmixer, or similar

Introduction to KIRI Engine

KIRI Engine is made by KIRI Innovations, who you may recognize as they produced the Phiz 3D scanner that had a successful Kickstarter campaign before being released more widely. It was a low-cost 3D object scanner that used your phone, but they no longer sell physical scanners.

Since then, KIRI Innovations have moved purely to working on their 3D scanning app, KIRI Engine, and have focused on making it the most advanced and versatile photogrammetry app, also featuring LiDAR scanning features if you have one of the latest iPhones.

Differences Between Free and Premium Versions

There are no differences in scan quality between the free and versions of KIRI Engine, which is one of the best parts about the free scanning app version.

But, there are some differences in the number of photos, scans you can export, and your priority in the queue to use server resources to export your scan. The details are below:

Other feature differences include being able to upload images from your local storage for photogrammetry, rather than just taking the photos with your phone in the app.

If you use the free version, expect to wait 15-20 minutes from uploading your scan, to having the final OBJ, MTL, and image files ready to download. It’s much faster with the Pro version.

Test 3D Scans and My Review

Clean Quality Scans with No Artifacts

After testing out KIRI Engine, I was impressed with the clean, artifact-free models it generated. For some hardcore projects I’m working on that need very detailed 3D models (1M+ polycounts), like for 3D printing, I found that KIRI Engine is able to produce great quality scans. 

For example, here’s my scan of the statue that comes with the Revopoint POP 2 that I tested to compare:

You can view the file on the 3DSourced Sketchfab.

This came out well, and after some minor editing to remove the background would look even better.

To save time and storage, one handy feature is the ability to choose between low, medium, and high poly counts based on my needs. So if you need a lightweight scan that will render quickly for gaming or AR uses, you can. In the Pro version, you can set specific poly counts, too.

The KIRI Engine team themselves tested the app using a $3 camera with just 2 megapixels, and a $5 lens, and managed to create a very accurate 3D model.

I tried a more intricate scan next, using a shell I had in my house.

It managed to scan the textures very well, and I was impressed with the quality in some of the more precise parts. If I had taken more photos I think the minor imperfections would have been fixed. You can see it here:

You can view the full shell 3D scan on the 3DSourced Sketchfab.

The awesome thing about KIRI Engine is that it can easily export 3D scans with quad mesh and even AI-generated PBR materials. Quad meshes are great because they can accurately represent the surface’s local geometry, and PBR materials make the 3D model look even better when rendered.

There’s also new features (still in Beta) such as KIRI’s Featureless Object Mode, powered by NeRF. Traditionally, smooth, blank-colored objects have been difficult to pick up with photogrammetry. But, KIRI Engine combines photogrammetry with NeRF to make scanning these objects much easier. For a more detailed explanation with more technical specifics, KIRI have written up an excellent blog post on the differences and how NeRF is a game-changer.

In another test I did, you can see in this 3D scan of two ammonites that it correctly removed the background, keeping only the main objects to be scanned:

Particularly impressive was the detail on the left ammonite, with all the ridges and details kept in the color scan.

AI Object Masking

KIRI Engine’s AI object masking means you can move the object, rather than it being stationary and you taking pictures around it, so that you can capture the bottom of the object and any other places that you can lose otherwise.

For example, the first time I scanned this statue, it was stationary and the bottom of the statue did not come out correctly. But, using the AI object masking features and holding the statue in my hand to change its angle, I could capture the entire object.

For a more in-depth example, this video shows this feature well.

Exporting Scans

I am impressed with the range of options available, including popular formats like STL, FBX, OBJ, PLY, GDTF, XYZ, USDZ, and even upcoming formats on our roadmap. KIRI does not paywall any file formats, which is a big advantage.

This flexibility allows me to seamlessly transfer my models to any 3D editor I prefer, including renowned software like Z-Brush, Blender, Maya, Unity, and Unreal Engine, and you can easily import your scans into Cura or another 3D slicer for 3D printing.

Once you’ve taken all the photos of your object that you need, you choose the format, scan quality, whether you want to make the scan public, and click upload. The upload process is very quick as my scans were generally 60-120mb, but then if you do not have the Pro version, it will take longer to process and export, as you do not have priority in the queue for server resources.

Once exported, a download link is generated and emailed to you, which is valid for 24 hours. It used to just be one hour, but KIRI has increased this more recently.

Then, if you’re uploading these to Sketchfab or want to edit the color versions, remember you need to upload the MTL and JPG files to combine the textures and colors, not just the OBJ file or your chosen file type.

Quality vs Professional 3D Scanners

KIRI Engine is, in my opinion, the best photogrammetry scanning app on Android and iOS.

However, you still can’t expect scan qualities from your phone’s camera to seriously rival a specialized professional 3D scanner.

Even cheaper $500 3D scanners like the Revopoint POP range are powerful machines designed specifically for depth-sensing fine details and textures for reverse engineering. Your phone’s camera is unlikely to rival a precision 3D scanning machine.

So, consider these photogrammetry and LiDAR uses mostly for fun projects, for more basic 3D modeling and 3D printing needs, and for creating initial base projects in animation or CGI uses. It does all of these fantastically, and if you’re proficient in Blender or ZBrush, you can use these 3D scans as the base for some fantastic 3D modeling, animation, gaming and VFX projects.

LiDAR Features

If you have an iPhone 12 Pro/Pro Max, iPhone 13 Pro/Pro Max, or iPhone 14 Pro/Pro Max, you’ll have LiDAR features that KIRI Engine also supports.

One extra feature is RoomScan, which lets you capture an entire room’s layout in 3D, and automatically generate detailed and intricate floor plans with precise measurements. 

Overall

Overall, I think KIRI Engine offers an unbeatable set of features on a free scanning app that finally makes Android 3D scanning viable, and is still better than other iPhone scanner options.

It’s free to try, and then if you want unlimited scans and more photos per scan, you can upgrade to the very affordable Pro version.

All phones have decent enough cameras for basic photogrammetry, and the newest iPhones even have LiDAR depth sensors for accurate meshes.

I’ve tried a lot of these apps, and overall the best 3D scanning app is KIRI Engine. It has generous free limits (70 photos per scan, and 3 free exports per week), good quality, built-in AI features for removing background artifacts, and much more. Read on for my full in-depth reviews!

Best iOS and Android 3D Scanner Apps

1. KIRI Engine

• Price: Free (in-app purchases) — View here
• Platform/operating system: Android 7.0 and iOS 14.0
• Additional hardware requirements: None

KIRI Engine, by the makers of the successful Phiz 3D scanner, is my pick as the top 3D scanner app. It’s compatible with Android 7.0 or later and Apple devices that can run iOS 13.0 or later, meaning even your 5-year-old iPhone can use the app.

It’s also one of the only good Android 3D scanning apps on the Google Play store, so there’s finally a decent Android photogrammetry app you can use.

Generous Free Version

Unlike the restrictive freemium model of many competing 3D scanning apps, KIRI Engine is far more generous. KIRI gives you unlimited scans of up to 70 photos per object, and 3 free exports per week. 

The beauty of KIRI Engine is that it doesn’t rely on your phone’s hardware to process scans, instead using powerful cloud-based computing to do its photogrammetry.

AI 3D Scanning Features

With KIRI Engine, you snap a range of pictures of your chosen object from several angles. The photos are sent for processing and returned within minutes to the smartphone as high-resolution 3D scans brimming with detail and rich textures. 

KIRI Engine uses advanced AI to prevent potential issues caused by shifting light quality in user-captured photos, even under low light conditions. It also uses AI object masking to clean up any background noise in your scans, leaving you with just your scanned model.

Additionally, each scan houses comprehensive geometric and textural data, and it even gives you the option to download low-poly model versions.

The quality of the 3D scans makes them particularly suited to applications like visual effects, game design, animation, augmented reality, and 3D printing. 
KIRI Engine’s 3D scans can easily be exported to popular slicers such as Cura along with industry-leading 3D animation software suites such as Unreal Engine, Maya, Unity, Blender, and many more.

For example, here’s two ammonite fossils I scanned with great details:

The Pro Version

For professional uses, the paid Pro version gives you unlimited exports, up to 200 pictures per upload, an automatic noise removal function, and more. You also get quad mesh features, which are better than triangular neshes when measuring surface geometries.

You also get AI-generated PBR materials that improve the render quality of your scanned 3D model. 

There’s even a web version for more complex and high-quality scans, such as from any drone captures, or DSLR photos.

You can download KIRI Engine on the Google Play store here, and the App Store here.

2. ARitize360

• Price: Free one month trial, including one free scan/render then $10 monthly subscription fee + $39.99 per model scan/render
• Platform/operating system: iOS and Android
• Additional hardware requirements: None

ARitize360 is a mobile app compatible with iOS and Android devices for businesses looking to jazz up their e-shops with life-like 360° 3D models of their wares, chiefly shoes, and sneakers. With the app, real-world shoes can be viewed digitally by potential customers from all angles with the ability to zoom in and out.

To get the most out of ARitize360, you will need an existing photo setup, ideally with correct lighting and a turntable. From there, the app provides clear prompts to complete a scan relatively quickly. The app captures a video of the object and then converts it to a photo-realistic 3D model.

There’s also the non-negligible matter of cost. ARitize adopts a freemium model with both a monthly subscription and per-scan fee to consider once you’ve exhausted the free trial. These costs and the laser focus on online shoe sellers mean that ARitize, while a great tool, isn’t suited for everyday scanning for hobbyist ends or other applications such as medicine and architecture.

You can download ARitize360 on the Google Play store here, and the App Store here.

3. AR Plan 3D

• Price: Free (in-app purchases – £89.99 for premium version and $7.99 to remove adds)
• Platform/operating system: iOS and Android
• Additional hardware requirements: None

AR Plan 3D is a 3D scanner app for Android and iOS that makes measuring real-world spaces and rooms to create models and floor plans easy.

Using AR technology, the app uses a virtual tape measure beamed onto real-world surfaces to capture precise dimensions, even those on windows and doors. It can also automatically calculate square footage for floors and walls, perimeter, height, and more for quantity estimates or interior design. Results can be exported to a floor planner archive for easy reference or shared via email, social media, and more.

The app is essentially an AR tape measure rather than a standard 3D scanner, so applications are limited. If you have plans beyond home refurbishment, interior design, and decoration, AR Plan 3D quickly shows its limitations.

You can download AR Plan 3D on the App Store here, and the Google Play store here.

Best iOS 3D Scanner Apps

4. Qlone

• 3D scanner app price: Free, with in-app purchases
• Compatible with: iOS devices and Android devices

Available as both an iOS and Android free 3D scanning application, Qlone is a free 3D scanning tool that lets you try out the wonderful benefits of capturing stunning 3D models without breaking the bank. However, if you want to export your captured mobile 3D scans — for example as STL files to Sketchfab or Shapeways — you’ll need to pay $0.99 per scan, though posting your scans on social media is free.

Unlike 3D scanner apps like Trnio, Qlone’s mobile phone 3D scanning software creates scans placed on a printed piece of paper with a black and white grid – they call it an AR Mat – which differentiates the scanned object from the background. You can download and print the grid from their site. To 3D scan, simply move your phone’s camera over the object until Qlone’s AR dome finishes capturing all the required points, and it will then process your 3D model before allowing you to edit and improve it.

A major selling point is Qlone’s powerful editing suite. Once you’ve captured your 3D model, you can clean up any errors or captures in the background, edit the textures, and resize or recolor your scan.

Some users report errors and difficulties creating perfect scans in Qlone’s 3D scanning phone software. Smaller objects especially can distort, and other more complex structures can become deformed. However, for a free 3D scanning app that lets you practice and try out 3D scanning with your phone, Qlone is still a great option.

You can download Qlone on the App Store here, or on Google Play here.

5. Trnio

• 3D scanner app price: $4.99
• Compatible with: iOS devices only

Based on photogrammetry technology wherein photos are taken from every angle of the object and then stitched together to form a completed 3D model, Trnio turns your Apple device into a powerful handheld 3D scanner.

With three different ways to 3D scan – importing photos from your library, ARkit, or in Object Mode – Trnio is possibly the most versatile 3D scanner app out there. Built to be simple yet powerful, you can see your 3D scan take shape as you capture your object from each side via the dots that appear after each consecutive image taken, before stitching them together to create a cohesive 3D scan.

It’s definitely one of the easiest iOS 3D scanning apps to use, as it’ll even teach you how to 3D scan effectively by directing you where to move and scan for the best results during the scanning process. Cleaning up scans is fairly simple in Trnio’s 3D scanner app Preview mode. Simply crop and delete any background items that have been scanned along with your chosen object, and then turn your preview into a completed 3D model ready to be 3D printed or posted online.

Once you’ve scanned and cleaned up your chosen object, Trnio lets you seamlessly export your 3D model to Sketchfab – a well-known 3D printer file repository – and then download them from there. Beyond this, if you have friends who also create scans, you can connect with them via Trnio’s social platform within the app.

For a simple 3D scanner app Trnio is very powerful, able to capture even subtle textures within objects, and scans are generally very accurate and precise, with few errors. If the occasional error does occur, simply re-scan the object and it should work fine.

Compatible with iPhones, iPads, and iPods, you can start right away for $4.99 by downloading the app here.

6. Scandy Pro

• 3D scanner app price: Free to download, but unlimited scanning costs $1.99/week, $49.99/year
• Compatible with: iPhone X, XS, XS Max, XR, 11 & 11 Pro, and new iPad Pros (with TrueDepth sensor)

Scandy Pro is an advanced 3D scanning app that turns your iPhone or iPad into a powerful 3D scanner. Taking advantage of the new TrueDepth texture recording features on the newest iPhones and iPads, Scandy is one of the most professional 3D scanning phone apps available, capable of recording not only small static objects, but also moving body parts such as your face and head.

Scandy Pro allows you to scan objects in full color, and despite its advanced nature, Scandy is a simple-to-use app allowing you to produce precise 3D scans. The ability to preview your scan during the scanning process is a very nice touch, letting you see whether you’ve got good enough images of all angles to create a precise scan. This 3D scanner app allows you to view your models in AR if you so wish, and has an effective editor within the app to clean up your scans, for example by slightly altering point clouds.

For those who want to avoid a 3D scanning app with a paid subscription service to use it, Scandy Pro also offers a pay-as-you-go service similar to Qlone, charging you for each scan. However, if you are only scanning and exporting one 3D model per day/week, you can do that within Scandy Pro for free, and in many different file formats including STL, OBJ, and PLY.

You can download Scandy Pro on the App Store here.

7. Heges

• 3D scanner app cost: Free, with in-app purchases
• Compatible with: iOS devices with TrueDepth capabilities

Heges is an advanced iPhone 3D scanning app that uses your iPhone’s (or iPad’s) TrueDepth sensors to create accurate and fast 3D scans that can be made in full color and at different levels of precision.

If your iPhone isn’t new enough to have a TrueDepth scanner, don’t fret – you can share your screen to capture scans if you connect it to another iOS device that does have access to this scanner. The Heges team explains how to do this in more depth in their FAQ section.

Unlike many 3D scanners and scanning apps, Heges does not have set boundaries that limit the size of an object or area you can scan. Theoretically, if you have unlimited storage, you could record forever using Heges’ Infinite Scanning tool.

Some have found Heges difficult to use, but we found it to be very simple, for example when 3D scanning your face you can clearly see the point clouds and meshes filling in as you scan different angles of your face and head, so you gather instant feedback on where you need to hold your phone to get a better quality scan. After you’ve finished your scan, its AR compatibility means you can bring your scans to life.

For cleaning up and editing your 3D scans for 3D printing, the Heges team recommends using Meshmixer or Meshlab – we explain how these can help in our 3D printer software guide. Hobbyists who are privacy-inclined will also favor Heges for its promise to never keep any data from your scanning use.

You can download the Heges 3D scanning app on the App Store here.

8. ItSeez3D

• Price: Free (in-app purchases: export $6.99)
• Platform/operating system: iOS – iPad mini gen. 2 with Retina display, iPad mini 3, iPad mini 4, iPad Air, iPad Air 2, iPad Air 2019, iPad Pro (9.7-inch, 10.5-inch, 11-inch, 12.9-inch) or iPad 5th or 6th Generation or newer models.
• Additional hardware requirements: Occipital Structure Sensor

Available exclusively for Apple iPad, ItSeezApp is a mobile 3D scanning app that aims to offer professional quality capture with next to no fuss. Load up the app and walk around your chosen subject guided by clear on-screen instructions. ItSeezApp then sends the data to the cloud to process highly realistic color 3D models.

ItSeezApp is particularly suited to capturing full-body scans and busts along with individual objects such as shoes, toys, furniture, and more, making it a strong option for hobbyists 3D printers, e-commerce applications, and 3D selfies/avatar creation.

ItSeez3D exports in OBJ, PLY, WRL formats with the option to share models via social media and even use advanced in-app tools to prep a scan for 3D printing. To use ItSeez3D and scan objects requires Occipital’s Structure Sensor, an additional iPad-mounted camera accessory that costs around $700.

You can download ItSeez3D here.

9. EM3D

• Price: Free (in-app purchases: full feature unlock $19.99, STL-OBJ export $6.99)
• Platform/operating system: iOS – iPhone and iPad with TrueDepth front facing camera technology
• Additional hardware requirements: None

EMD3D is a mobile app that taps into the front-facing TrueDepth camera tech found in many iPhones and iPads launched over the past few years to bring straightforward, lifelike 3D scanning to the masses.

It’s geared primarily to creating full color, 360° 3D selfies, and videos for personal use, and as such, there’s plenty of well-guided hand-holding to walk you through the whole process. Features include easy social media sharing, scan export to STL, PLY, and OBJ formats, support for Bluetooth shutter buttons, mesh toggling, scene reorientation, geometry removal, point cloud exporting, and automatic video creation, to name a few.

Due to the app relying solely on the front-facing camera, scanning anything other than selfies can be quite tricky. EM3D provides a 3D printable mirror adapter model or suggests you use the Mirror Saver mode on the app to view the screen using a secondary iOS device to simplify the process.

You can download EM3D here.

10. Polycam

• Price: Free (in-app purchase to export models)
• Platform/operating system: iOS – iPhone with LiDAR sensor or all post-2015 iPhones/iPads for photogrammetry 3D models
• Additional hardware requirements: None

Polycam is an iPhone 3D scanning app that aims to deliver compatibility with a broad range of Apple devices released as far back as 2015. It does this with two modes that employ different scanning techniques.

The first taps into the LiDAR sensor found on iPhones launched in 2020 and later to rapidly generate high-quality, full color, dimensionally accurate scans of objects and spaces. The second, available on all 2015 and later Apple devices, allows you to take photos of a chosen object or space, then convert them to highly-detailed 3D models using photogrammetry.

Polycam allows you to export captured scans in a range of formats such as OBJ, DAE, FBX, STL, and color point cloud data such as PLY, XYZ, and PTS. The app also offers editing options to create ready-to-use scans for various applications, including architecture, design, archeology, and more. You can even auto-generate blueprints and floor plans along with precise measurements.

You can download Polycam here.

11. Canvas

• Price: Free (in-app purchase for CAD/BIM formats)
• Platform/operating system: iOS – LiDAR-equipped iOS device for Canvas: LiDAR 3D Measurements or iPhone 8 or above for Canvas for Homeowners
• Additional hardware requirements: None

Canvas is a 3D room scanning app exclusively designed to capture spaces in 3D using no more than an iPhone or iPad to create accurate CAD models and floor plans. It dramatically simplifies measurement taking and interior modeling, ideal for home improvement applications, whether remodeling, contracting, interior design, or renovation.

In action, Canvas scans entire rooms in a matter of seconds, taking thousands of measurements in the process with up to 99% accuracy. From there, scans convert to various industry-standard CAD or other formats through Canvas’ paid Scan-To-CAD service. All scans can be revisited anytime through the cloud-based Canvas Web Viewer.

Canvas is available in two versions. The first, Canvas for Homeowners, is geared towards clients who want a quick and easy way to work remotely and provide useful scan data to contractors. The second, Canvas: LiDAR 3D Measurements for LiDAR-equipped iOS devices, is more powerful and accurate, designed for use by home improvement professionals.

You can download Canvas here.

12. 3DsizeME

• Price: Free
• Platform/operating system: iOS – iPad
• Additional hardware requirements: Occipital Structure Sensor

3DsizeME is an iOS 3D body scanner app for creating 3D digital models of the human body. Much like ItSeez3D, you’ll need an iPad paired with the $700 Occipital Structure Sensor mobile device accessory, which makes it primarily a professional-level tool for medical use in prosthetics, orthotics, and pedorthics.

With 3DsizeMe, you can scan all types of body parts from head to toe through a simple to use, intuitive interface that delivers high-quality 3D models for custom treatments, removing the need for time-consuming plaster casts or impression boxes. Scans export to MSoft, developer TechMed3D’s software to visualize models, add measurements, and otherwise touch up, align, and clip scans.

While a powerful tool, 3DsizeME isn’t an app suited to hobbyists or professionals in fields other than medicine. As such, its use is very limited.

You can download 3DsizeME here.

Best Android 3D Scanner Apps

13. Scann3D

• Price: Free (in-app purchases)
• Platform/operating system: Android
• Additional hardware requirements: None

Scann3D is an Android 3D scanner app that taps into photogrammetry to bring objects to life as accurate 3D models.

To scan, hold the phone towards the object, then snap a picture, move and take another, and so on until you’ve captured all angles – roughly 20-40 photos depending on the object. An image capture assistance mode is also there to help guide you to the best possible image set quality. You can then review the pictures on the app to weed out any blurs or errors, then put the app to work to stitch the images together to create a 3D model within minutes.

The app has an in-built model view to review scans directly on your device. You can also export models in several formats, including STL, OBJ, and PLY for 3D printing, or upload scans to social media and Sketchfab, for example. More detailed and textured scans are available if you sign up for one of several subscription options.

You can download Scann3D here.

Free 3D Scanner Apps — Others

14. Sony 3D Creator

• 3D scanner app price: Free
• Compatible with: Sony phones

Sony’s own foray into the mobile 3D scanning market was met with much excitement, as Sony 3D Creator was packaged with the Xperia XZ1 and advertised as the newest frontier in 3D cameras and scanning. As a result however, 3D Creator is only available as a 3D scanning app for Sony Xperia phones.

Based on the type of 3D scanning you intend to perform, 3D Creator offers five different 3D scanning modes: Selfie Mode, Head Scan, Face Scan, Food Scan, and a Freeform Scan option for more general object scanning. 3D scanning on your phone is made simple by the on-screen indicators informing you when you’ve correctly scanned a certain part of the object – such as your face – so you know when to move on to the next angle.

Many users report 3D Creator to be an effective 3D scanning app for inanimate, stationery objects, able to detect precise areas and differences between objects that do not require much cleaning. However, more issues are reported with the Face and Head Scan and Selfie modes, with facial features sometimes blurring together into an unrecognizable Frankenstein-esque deformity. It is still however a fantastic and easy to use 3D scanning app for Sony smartphone hobbyists, but has less place in industrial or professional 3D scanner applications.

After scanning, you can seamlessly export your model as an STL file to print it on your desktop 3D printer, or share your 3D model on social media.

You can download Sony’s 3D Creator on the Google Play store here.

Buyer’s Guide – Things To Consider

Scan Time

Even though developers design the best 3D scanner apps with speed in mind, the underlying scanning technique affects how quickly a scan is likely to complete.

Apps that use LiDAR and third-party depth sensors scan much quicker than those that employ photogrammetry technology for the simple reason that the latter requires the user to take numerous pictures of the objects from different angles, which itself is time-consuming.

Additional Hardware/Accessories

Most 3D scanner apps use photogrammetry to determine the dimensions and texture of an object to create a 3D model, but a number of them require third-party accessories, more often than not the popular Structure Sensor, a camera that mounts on top of devices like tablets.

It’s essential to factor in the extra cost when considering which app is best for your needs. For example, the Structure Sensor costs around $700, or roughly the price of a phone.

Scan Quality and Precision

Even the best 3D scanner apps struggle to match the quality and precision of a standalone 3D scanner. LiDAR sensors, or light detection and ranging, found in recent iPhones have drastically improved quality over straight photogrammetry.

However, the results are still a far cry from pro-grade standalone scanners. That said, for high tolerance applications such as e-commerce and floor plan creation, the scan quality and precision are more than suitable.

3D Scanner App Uses — What Do You Want to 3D Scan?

Although we would recommend 3D scanners over their app counterparts in almost every situation and application, 3D scanner apps are a cost-effective and convenient alternative that is more than suitable for several applications.

Here’s a breakdown of the best apps for several of the most common applications:

• Floor plans, measurement, room modeling – AR Plan 3D, Canvas
• 3D printing – Scann3D, ItSeez3D, Sony 3D Creator, Heges, Trnio
• Medical – 3DsizeME
• E-Commerce – ARitize360, Polycam

How Do 3D Scanner Apps Work

As the name implies, 3D scanner apps use a mobile device’s hardware, or sometimes cloud-based processing, to create a 3D model of a scanned object. While similar to standalone 3D scanners, the underpinning technology is different. Here’s a quick breakdown of the two most common types of 3D scanner apps.

Photogrammetry – Images of an object are taken from all angles then stitched together to create a 3D model.

LiDAR/Structure Sensor – A laser shines a pattern of light over an object. A sensor then gathers the reflected light to determine depth data which is then fed to a scanning app to construct a 3D digital image.

What Is A LiDAR Sensor?

A LiDAR sensor is a depth technology that employs a pulsed laser to measure the depth and range of an object. The data gathered from reflected light is used to generate 3D models of anything from human bodies to sea beds, shoes, rooms, and much more.

In the case of 3D scanner apps, LiDAR sensors are found on most Apple mobile devices released after 2020, granting even more precise and accurate scanning of objects and spaces.

What Is A Structure Sensor?

A Structure Sensor is the brand name for manufacturer Occipital’s third-party mounting depth sensor. It’s very similar in function to a LiDAR sensor but is designed to pair with portable devices, chiefly iPads, for various applications and 3D scanning apps.

3D Scanner App FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, you may also enjoy:

• Our guide to the best free 3D modeling software tools
• Our guide to the best professional 3D modeling software tools
• The 15 best 3D printing software
• The best sites to download STL files and 3D printer files

• The best 3D scanners
• The best DIY 3D scanners
• The best low-cost 3D scanners

Key Takeaways

• Creality Firmware: Official firmware with basic features and compatibility. Easy to install on Ender 3 V2.
• Marlin Firmware: Open-source firmware with advanced features and customization. Requires code editing and Arduino Uno for older Ender 3 models.
• TH3D Unified Firmware: User-friendly firmware based on Marlin 2.0. Tested and stable with pre-configured Ender 3 profiles.
• Klipper Firmware: High-speed firmware that uses a Raspberry Pi to process G-Code. Complex to set up but offers unique features and performance.

For most hobbyists, the best Ender 3 firmware will be the standard Creality stock firmware. It covers all your basic 3D printing needs and will keep your printer running smoothly.

But if you’re looking to expand your Ender 3’s functionality with hardware upgrades – such as automatic bed leveling, thermal runaway protection, and PID tuning – you’ll need to install more specialized firmware.

Firmware like Marlin and Jyers will expand the capability of your device and are easier to install than you might think.

Those are my top two recommendations, but the right firmware for you will depend on the specific changes you’re looking to make.

I’ll explain the particular merits of each to help you make the right choice – including how easy they are to install.

If you happen to own an Ender 3 V2, you’re in luck. A simple microSD card and the requisite files are everything you’ll need to install fresh firmware.

It’s a little more “hands-on” for Ender 3/Pro, but if you follow the steps in this guide, you’ll be able to set it up without any of the beginner mistakes I made the first time around!

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Official Creality Ender 3 Firmware

If you want the most frictionless path to upgrading your Ender 3’s firmware and don’t want to tweak the code, drawing from Creality’s pool of official firmware updates is the way to go. 

Unsurprisingly, these are tuned to suit the Ender 3, meaning you won’t encounter any compatibility issues, and there’s a version for every iteration of the Ender 3. These include the older 8-bit mainboards and the newer 32-bit V4.2.2 and V4.2.7 boards found on the Ender V2.

Over on Creality’s official forum, you’ll find a wealth of firmware versions.

There is all manner available based on your printer and options for specific hardware upgrades such as BL a Touch and a filament runout sensor. You also benefit from thermal runaway protection in the latest Creality firmware, which itself is reason enough to push through an update.

To install on the Ender 3 V2, load the BIN file onto a microSD card and pop it into the mainboard’s microSD card slot.

The process is more involved for the stock Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro. You’ll need to flash a bootloader onto the printer using an Arduino Uno, then upload the new firmware to your printer’s mainboard.

Marlin 2.0

Marlin is an open-source firmware with a long history dating back to the early days of RepRap printers.

It’s used by many of the leading consumer printer manufacturers. Creality uses an altered and customized version for its official firmware.

So what sets it apart from Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware?

Adaptability, features, and self-configuration. If you need to tune the firmware to suit particular upgrades, fix bugs, and fine-tune the real-time coordination of the printer’s active parts, then Marlin 2.0 offers an extra degree of freedom.

PID heater control, linear advance, automatic bed leveling, power loss recovery – these are a taste of the advanced, sophisticated functions Marlin offers to those partial to tinkering their way to higher quality prints.

You can freely toggle features on and off to find the perfect mix for your needs.

Alternatively, there are great pre-configured Ender 3 profiles that you can upload straight to the printer. And, should you stumble, there’s strong community support ready to help you troubleshoot.

It’s compatible with both the older 8-bit Ender 3s along with the newer 32-bit variants, though the installation process differs as we saw above with the official Creality Ender 3 firmware.

TH3D Unified Firmware

TH3D Unified firmware is among the most accessible Ender 3 firmware options out there.

It makes tweaking settings easy while guaranteeing version stability through heavy testing, so you’re unlikely to meet any bugs or problems. Most of its iterations have pre-configured profiles specifically for the Ender 3, all tuned to work from the get-go.

TH3D is based on Marlin 2.0. It bundles in all the firmware’s basic benefits but throws in a few unique features such as:

• PID autotuning
• Power loss print resume
• Preheating for different filament types
• Assisted bed leveling
• Support for E3D V6 hot end upgrades
• Manual mesh leveling support

Much like the other firmware options in our guide, Ender 3 V2 owners have it easy with a simple microSD card upload to the mainboard. Ender 3 and Pro users will need to draft in an Arduino and flash the board with a bootloader before uploading the firmware file.

Klipper

A one-person-developed open-source firmware, Klipper is designed to dramatically boost the printing speed of the Ender 3.

Klipper achieves this by delegating computational duties to a single-board computer such as a Raspberry Pi. The board takes care of the G-Code processing side of things and calculates printer movements.

Doing so introduces more processing power into the mix than you’d get with the Ender 3’s mainboard alone.

With that extra outside SBC help, the Ender 3’s mainboard is left to concentrate exclusively on executing the G-Code commands, resulting in faster and quieter printing thanks to high-precision acceleration physics and machine kinematics-based stepper movements.

Aside from this unique approach, Klipper has a stacked feature set.

These include:

• Smooth pressure advance to reduce ooze
• Input shading to counter vibrations
• Custom programmable macros
• Automatic bed leveling support
• Thermal runaway protection
• Stepper phase end stop algorithm to improve first layer adhesion
• Support for filament sensors

Just to name a few…

It goes without saying that using a Raspberry Pi alongside the printer itself adds another layer of complexity.

In our estimation, Klipper is an advanced option better suited to seasoned tinkerers with experience working with SBCs and happy to configure the firmware themselves.

It’s also worth checking out Fluidd, a bespoke UI for Klipper if you decide to take the plunge.

It’s a lightweight and responsive interface to tame and shape the firmware to your needs. If you’ve never dabbled in similar projects, we highly recommend more beginner-friendly options such as TH3D Unified firmware or Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware.

Jyers

An up-and-coming firmware that’s slowly gaining traction among Ender 3 owners, the Jyers firmware is one to keep an eye on.

It’s based on Marlin 2.0 and is incredibly user-friendly.

Notable features include a revamped Ender 3 menu with manual leveling, Z offset, preheat, change filament menus, labeled error messages, M600 G-Code, PID autotune, and manual mesh leveling.

We can’t recommend it as it stands due to various major bugs hampering an otherwise excellent set of features. However, active development should see these smoothed out before long, at which point Jyers has everything to make it a superior alternative to the official Creality firmware.

If you are nevertheless tempted and don’t mind navigating the bugs, installation follows the usual Arduino Uno bootloader flash and firmware installation for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro.

Installing Jyers on the Ender 3 V2 requires no more than a formatted microSD card and the firmware files.

What You’ll Need to Update Your Ender 3 Firmware

Depending on what Ender 3 version you have, you’ll need to make sure you have all the right gear to get started.

Below, you’ll find a breakdown of everything you need if you have an Ender 3, Ender Pro, or the newer Ender 3 V2.

Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro

• Arduino Uno or other microcontroller
• Five female-to-female jumper cables
• One male-to-female jumper cable 
• USB cable
• PC
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• Latest version of Arduino IDE software
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 V2

• A clean, formatted microSD card
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 S1/S1 Pro

• A clean, microSD card formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

Ender 3 V2 Neo

• A clean, microSD card with a capacity of no more than 8 GB formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

FAQ

If you enjoyed this article, check our other Ender 3 software guides to help get the most from your 3D printer:

• The Best Ender 3 3D Printing Software Overall
• Which Slicer Tool is Best for Ender 3? (Free and Premium)
• How-to: Fixing the Ender 3 “No TF Card” Message

Key Takeaways

• Check mainboard version: Remove the mainboard cover and look for V4.2.2 or V4.2.7 on the PCB.
• Download Jyers configuration: Choose the right BIN file from the Jyers GitHub according to your mainboard and bed leveling preferences.
• Load firmware onto MicroSD card: Transfer the BIN file to a clean and formatted MicroSD card.
• Flash firmware to printer: Insert the MicroSD card into the printer, turn it on, and wait for the firmware to install. Check the Info menu to verify the installation.

Though the Ender 3 V2 is a certified classic in the 3D printing community, it’s limited when it comes to the stock Creality Marlin-based firmware. These limitations touch on both the software and hardware side of things: upgrades such as automatic bed leveling or PID tuning simply aren’t possible with the firmware loaded onto the stock Ender 3 V2.

Fortunately, there’s a relatively easy way to unlock the Ender 3 V2’s full upgrade and modding potential – pre-configured Jyers firmware. 

In this guide, we’ll lay out exactly what Jyers is, how it can be used to improve the Ender 3 V2, and, more importantly, provide a step-by-step guide detailing how to install Jyers on the Ender 3 V2.

Overview of Jyers Firmware

What is Jyers Firmware?

Jyers is a free open-source firmware based on Marlin – one of the most popular firmware options out there in 3D printing circles – but tweaked, reconfigured, and customized to allow for additional features, hardware, and functionality that overcome the limitations inherent in the stock Ender 3 V2 firmware. 

With Jyers, the Ender 3 V2 can be tweaked to accommodate new hardware like an automatic bed leveling probe, functionality like mid-print filament swapping, or software improvements like a much-improved, customizable on-screen UI and manual mesh bed leveling.

While the basic functions of the printer are identical, Jyers opens the door to customizing the Ender 3 V2 printing experience to your liking. The beauty of Jyers is that it’s based on pre-compiled configurations that make installation extremely straightforward and easy. 

These configurations cover virtually all possible needs and wants with versions for different motherboards, for those that want bed leveling, those that don’t, and default configuration profiles for those that want only the basic improvements.

The Full Steps:

• Step 1: Check the mainboard
• Step 2: Install Jyers Firmware
• Step 3: Install the necessary software
• Step 4: Prepare Ender 3 V2 for firmware flashing
• Step 5: Flashing the Firmware
• Step 6: Verify installation was successful

How to Install Jyers Firmware on Ender 3 V2

Step 1: Check the Mainboard

The first thing to do before installing Jyers is to check what mainboard version is in your Ender 3 V2. Doing so will allow you to choose the right Jyers firmware configuration on GitHub. 

Creality produces the Ender 3 V2 with the Creality V4.2.2 mainboard, but the manufacturer also produces the Creality V.4.2.7, a popular Ender 3 upgrade. As such, it’s especially important to check the mainboard version if you picked up the printer secondhand.

The easiest way to check the mainboard version is to dive into the innards of the Ender 3 V2. It sounds more daunting than it is: simply remove the mainboard casing cover and look at the board itself. 

Etched into the center PCB will be the mainboard version. To access the mainboard, remove the four screws (one on top and three underneath), then remove the cover. 

At this point, we recommend being gentle as you don’t want to disrupt the fan wiring which is attached to the cover. With the cover removed, check the middle of the board – it should read either V4.2.2 or Creality 4.2.7 right next to an imprint of the Creality logo.

Step 2: Choose The Right Jyers Firmware Version

Now that we know which mainboard is on your Ender 3 V2, it’s time to download the right version of Jyers. Over on the Jyers GitHub, you’ll find several different pre-configured binary firmware configurations as BIN files with names that can be a tad confusing. Let’s break it down.

Let’s take the E3V2-BLTouch-3×3-HS-v4.2.2-v2.0.1.bin configuration:

• E3V2 – refers to the printer. Here the Ender 3 V2.
• BLTOUCH – means this version supports a BL Touch probe.
• 3×3 – Bed leveling mesh size (3×3 = 9 points, and 5×5 = 25 points).
• HS – High Speed, indicates that this version uses a faster automatic bed leveling process where the probe uses a shorter retraction distance for every point.
• v4.2.2 – mainboard version, either Creality V4.2.2 or Creality V4.2.7.
• V2.0.1 – the Marlin version the configuration is based on.

In the configuration file names, you also find several other indicators:

• Default – for those not using an automatic bed leveling probe like the BL Touch.
• Non-HS – for these versions, the HS indication won’t appear, which simply means the BL Touch uses the Unified Bed Leveling system with normal probe retraction during leveling.

From here, you’ll want to select the Jyers firmware configuration that best suits your needs and whether or not you’ve installed a BL Touch.

Step 3: Load the Firmware onto an SD Card

​​Once you’ve chosen and downloaded your version, the next step is to load the file onto a MicroSD card in order to send it to the Ender 3 V2 for flashing. 

We recommend taking a clean MicroSD card with no other files loaded onto it and even formatting to FAT32 beforehand to avoid any issues. 

From there, simply transfer the BIN file to the MicroSD card, which should take no more than a few seconds given the small file size.

Step 4: Prepare Ender 3 V2 for Firmware Flashing

Before flashing the mainboard, it’s worth taking note of any customized settings you’ve set on your Ender 3 V2, notably if you’ve fine-tuned the E-steps previously. These can cover parameters like motion such as speed, max corner speed, and acceleration.

It goes without saying that you’ll want to remove any filament loaded into the printer, screw the mainboard cover back on, make sure the printer is turned off to start, and the nozzle/bed have cooled down.

Step 5: Flashing the Firmware

The next step is to flash the Jyers firmware configuration to the Ender 3 V2 mainboard. It’s the most important step of the process, but fortunately isn’t all that taxing.

• Firstly, turn the printer off.
• Insert the MicroSD with the firmware loaded onto it into the Ender 3 V2’s MicroSD card slot
• Turn on the printer.

After roughly 20-30 seconds, the printer will boot up again with the firmware installed and the refreshed Jyers UI. As you can see, the process is dead simple and the machine takes care of all the heavy lifting for you.

Step 6: Verify Installation Was Successful

At this point, we recommend checking that Jyers installation was indeed successful. In the new Jyers UI menu, go to Control, then select Info. Here, you’ll see the firmware version. Double-check that it corresponds with the one you downloaded from the GitHub repository.

You may also want to dive into the settings, and re-enter the parameters you noted down earlier to save having to recalibrate the E-Steps again. We also recommend running a test print, possibly a simple calibration cube or a Benchy just to verify everything is running smoothly.

If you don’t get on with Jyers, know that you can always revert to the stock Ender 3 V2 firmware. Visit the Creality website, download the firmware, and load it onto a MicroSD card. From here, follow the same steps above: turn off the printer, insert the SD card, turn on the printer, and wait for the flashing process to complete.

What Does Jyers Firmware Add to Ender 3 V2?

Now, that we have an understanding of what Jyers firmware is all about, it’s worth diving into the features and options it provides when loaded on the Ender 3 V2:

Manual Mesh Bed Leveling 

Jyers offers the option to use manual mesh bed leveling. It’s a vastly more precise and efficient way to level the bed, short of installing an automatic bed leveling probe like the BL Touch, than the basic manual process usually used on the Ender 3 V2. 

Jyers’ mesh leveling functions allow you to choose a mesh with 9 to 25 set points on the bed, then to adjust the z-offset for each of these for more accurate leveling and better first-layer adhesion. It’s a great way to compensate for the slight irregularities on the bed’s surface.

Automatic Bed Leveling

Support for automatic bed leveling probes, setting you up for a hardware upgrade to a probe like the BL Touch.

Assisted Manual Leveling

Provides guided manual leveling, a solid improvement over the unassisted leveling of the stock Ender 3 V2 firmware.

Filament Change/Advanced Pause

This function recognizes the M600 G-code command, allowing you to pause the printer mid-print and swap in a different filament, useful for multi-color or multi-material prints. 

The function will automatically move the print head, unload the filament, purge, and load fresh filament with very little input from the user, other than inserting new filament into the hot end.

Full File Name

Displays full file names in the UI by scrolling to the right when hovering over the model. This is useful if you’re managing numerous versions of the same models with similar names and need to differentiate between them without loading a MicroSD card onto a computer to check.

Live Z-Offset Tuning

This feature allows you to tune the z-offset live during the printing process to ensure the correct distance between the bed and nozzle for proper layer adhesion and smooth surface finishes.

Customizable Pre-Heat Profiles

You can adjust the parameters of pre-heat profiles for different filaments like PLA, PETG, and ABS to suit different brands of filament and your project.

PID Autotune

An on-display PID tune function to calibrate hot end and bed temperature fluctuations to provide controlled and consistent temperatures which improve overall print finish and quality.

Improved and Customized UI

Jyers introduced a customizable UI where you can adjust colors (cursor, boxes, text, status bar, etc.), brightness, how progress is displayed, and turn sounds and the display on/off as needed. There are also statistics for the number of prints, successful prints tracking, filament used tracking, and more.

Improved Octoprint Integration

Unlike the stock firmware which offers next to no on-screen info when using Octoprint, Jyers expands this to show a progression bar and filename.

EEPROM

Jyers saves printer settings on the mainboard rather than on the inserted SD card.

Pros and Cons of Jyer Firmware on Ender 3 V2

Here, we’ll outline the general pros and cons of Jyers for the Ender 3 V2 to give you a broad sense of what the firmware offers.

Pros:

• Jyers is designed and configured exclusively for the Ender 3 V2, which means the firmware works out of the box with no lengthy compiling or tinkering.
• Jyers features enhanced bed leveling, including assisted bed leveling, mesh bed leveling, and support for an automatic bed leveling probe like the BL Touch.
• The UI is customizable with several color schemes and trackers (prints, successful prints, filament consumption). File names are also displayed in full on the UI.
• Includes PID tuning to calibrate the temperature fluctuations of the bed/nozzle for better overall printing performance.
• The Jyers Ender 3 V2 firmware includes a filament change and advanced paused function for mid-print filament and color swapping.
• Live off-set tuning allows you to fine-tune the distance between the nozzle and bed during the printing process, especially useful for nailing that first layer.
• EEPROM shift printer setting saves from a MicroSD card to the mainboard memory, so there’s no need to constantly have a card inserted into the machine or be in trouble if you happen to misplace the SD card.

Cons:

• Jyers has a steeper learning curve than the stock Creality firmware with more options and settings for users to get accustomed to and learn.
• Unfortunately, Jyers is no longer regularly updated with the last meaningful changes made in November 2021. That’s not to say that Jyers is outdated, but it’s no longer in active development.

Cura has been the go-to choice for millions of makers since 2016. Creality Slicer, which is based on Cura, comes from the folks behind the iconic Ender 3 – Creality. Though it may not have the reputation of Cura, it’s still an efficient slicer worth considering.

If you’re considering the two and are having trouble making a choice, given the similarities between the two, this article is for you. We’ll cover what sets Cura and Creality Slicer apart, what features they share, their respective pros and cons, and suggest a few alternatives to these two slicer heavyweights.

Before we begin, here’s a brief breakdown of the differences between Creality Slicer and Cura in easy-to-digest table format:

What Are the Differences Between Creality Slicer and Cura

The main difference between Cura and Creality Slicer lies in their range of features and complexity. Creality Slicer is best seen as a simplified and streamlined version of Cura that’s easier for beginners to use and understand. 

Cura, on the other hand, has a broader range of advanced features better suited to tweaking and fine-tuning the slicing process, making it more versatile, but still extremely user-friendly. 

Let’s dive into the specifics.

User Interface

• Cura: Cura features a clean, intuitive, and easy-to-navigate UI that presents information and settings in a digestible format. The real beauty here is that the arrangement of the toolbar, features, and settings won’t overwhelm first-timers, but collapsible submenus reveal a wealth of options for those wanting to dive deeper into what the program has to offer.

• Creality Slicer: Given that Creality Slicer is a fork of Cura, retooled for Creality printer owners, the UI is more or less identical, bar a different color scheme. Some may prefer the sleeker colors of Cura, but for all intents and purposes, we’re working with the same core UI on both programs.

Operating System Compatibility

Print Times

Compatible 3D Printers and Profiles

Updates

Toolbar

Import/Export File Types

Cura: 

• 3MF File (.3mf)
• AMF File (.amf)
• COLLADA Digital Asset Exchange (.dae)
• Compressed COLLADA Digital Asset Exchange (.zae)
• Open Compressed Triangle Mesh (.ctm)
• STL file (.stl)
• Stanford Triangle Format (.ply)
• Wavefront OBJ File (.obj)
• X3D file (.x3d)
• glTF Binary (.glb)
• glTF Embedded JSON (.gltf)

• BMP image (.bmp)
• GIF image (.gif)
• JPEG image (.jpeg)
• JPG image (.jpg)
• PNG Image (.png)

• Compressed G-code file (.gz)
• G file (.g)
• G-code file (.gcode)
• Ultimaker Format Package (.ufp)

Creality Slicer:

Creality Slicer offers the same import/export file compatibility as Cura with the option to send sliced models to Creality Cloud, the manufacturer’s all-in-one cloud-based 3D printing platform, with features like a 3D model library, remote printing, and cloud slicing.

Support

Cost

Plugins

Creality Slicer vs Cura: Pros and Cons

Creality Slicer Pros and Cons

Pros

One of the main pros of Creality Slicer is full compatibility with all Creality printers, including the Ender 3, Ender 5, and CR-10. 

This also extends to optimized pre-configured profiles to get the best settings immediately with no tinkering. 

Creality Slicer is also based on Cura, so the layout and UI are familiar to anyone that’s used Cura. It’s easy to use, intuitive, and features descriptions for most settings and features to guide first-time users.

Creality Slicer supports a wide range of file formats for both export and import. The software also supports plugins, allowing you to customize the slicer with tools and features beyond those offered by the base program. Creality Slicer is 100% free to use and integrates with Creality’s Cloud service, giving you access to discussion, 3D models, and remote printing.

Cons

Creality Slicer is technically compatible with most printers, but is optimized for Creality machines, so you won’t get the best experience if you’re using a different branded 3D printer. 

You can create a custom profile and enter your 3D slicer settings yourself, but this doesn’t offer the same, sleek, optimized experience as the pre-configured Creality printer profiles. 

As Creality is based on Cura, any improvements rely on Creality implementing the latest Cura updates into its slicer, which generally means a delay in having access to the latest features and bug fixes, for a slightly outdated feel compared to Cura.

Ultimaker Cura Pros and Cons

Pros

Cura offers a clear, intuitive, and streamlined user interface that accommodates both beginners and experts alike. 

There’s plenty of depth to the features and options, but these aren’t pushed to the user from the get-go, allowing for a gentle learning curve. 

Cura is regularly updated with bug fixes, performance optimizations, and new features, giving users access to the latest in slicer capabilities. 

Cura is free to use with no limitations and is compatible with a huge range of 3D printers, with robust, tested pre-configured profiles for most FDM printers currently on the market and even older printers no longer available to buy. 

Due to its popularity, Cura has a massive community of users with a vast range of resources, guides, and tutorials to help you get the most out of the software. This also extends to a huge marketplace of plugins to customize your Cura experience.

Cons

Though Cura caters to most 3D printer brands, it doesn’t have profiles for all versions. 

For example, the Ender 3 profile only covers the basic version and the Ender 3 Pro, leaving out more recent versions like the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 V2 Neo for example, which requires fine tuning. We have recently reviewed and tested both the Ender 3 S1 Pro, and Ender 3 V2 Neo, and though it was right when they were released, at that time neither had a custom Cura profile. Check out our article on the best Cura profile settings for Ender 3 for more.

Alternatives to Creality Slicer and Ultimaker Cura

Though Ultimaker Cura and Creality Slicer are excellent slicers for most users, you may want to explore what else is out there with slightly less popular, but equally capable alternatives.

PrusaSlicer

Developed by the folks behind the highly-respected Prusa i3 MK3S+, PrusaSlicer is an open-source program based on Slic3r. Though, Prusa has polished and beefed up the feature set and user experience that PrusaSlicer now stands on its own two feet. 

It ships with pre-configured profiles for the most popular printers out there, includes import/export options for all the go-to file types, and is available for MacOS, Windows, and Linux. 

Among PrusaSlicer’s most notable features is a vase mode similar to Cura’s, custom supports, integration with OctoPrint, automatic variable layer height, model repair tool, infill wipe function, and macros. 

Though PrusaSlicer houses a wealth of features and options, it remains very user-friendly with a clean, polished layout. Regular updates and solid printing results with little tweaking make it a solid choice for those wanting something different to Cura and Creality Slicer.

Simplify3D

While Cura and Creality Slicer aim to welcome users of all experience levels, Simplify3D is designed mainly for professional applications with a suite of features and a level of tinkering unavailable on more consumer-geared slicers. With this comes a price tag, something that’s rare for most slicers, with Simplify3D asking users to drop $200 to use the software.

For the money, you get a customized workflow, abundant settings, and superb quality results at every turn, all housed in a UI that’s easy on the eye and intuitive to use for all the complexity lurking below the surface. It also ships with plenty of pre-configured profiles, import/export of all the major file types, and excellent support from both the developers and a committed community.

Beginners may be a little daunted by the versatility here, so we recommend using a simpler slicer like Cura to begin, but once you’ve nailed the basics, Simplify3d is a great environment to hone your skills and gain absolute control over the slicing process.

Slic3r

Slic3r is another open-source slicer program that is largely responsible for most of the advanced features we’ve come to expect from a slicer these days – brims, variable layer heights, unusual infill patterns, and much more.

With such a focus on innovation, Slic3r is chiefly geared towards established enthusiasts and makers with years of printing under their belt who a glut of features won’t put off. Newcomers may be overwhelmed with the depth of the program. 

Slic3r is compatible with MacOS, Windows, and Linux systems and is available for free on the Slic3r website. Unlike Cura and others, Slic3r has very few profiles, so expect plenty of custom tinkering to hone in our settings that work for your 3D printer.

FAQ:

Is Creality Slicer Based on Cura?

Yes, Creality Slicer is based on Cura. It’s what is called a fork of the open-source Cura, meaning Creality has taken the based UI, interface, and underlying code and then modified it to better serve its range of printers. Other than a few changes to settings, color scheme, and printer profiles, the two programs are virtually identical in most respects.

As one of the best-selling printers of all time, the Ender 3 and its successors, including the Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, and more recently the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 Neo, are favorites among newcomers and seasoned makers alike. It’s well-priced, versatile, and offers a gentle introduction to 3D Printing. But, as with most 3D printers, the Ender 3 takes some targeted tweaking and slicer setting adjustments to get the most out of it, notably in the ever-popular Cura.

In this guide, we’ll cover the best Cura profile settings for Ender 3, touching on parameters like print speed, infills, temperatures, different filaments, and much more to help you tune the very best Cura profile.

How To Find Ender 3 Profiles in Cura

To find the Ender 3 profile in Cura:

• Open Cura
• Tap on Settings, then select ‘Add Printer.’
• Click on ‘Add a non-networked printer’ to expand a list of printers.
• Scroll down and click on ‘Creality3D’.
• Select the Ender 3 from the list of options, and tap the ‘Add’ button.
• On the next screen, make sure the build volume, heated bed, etc. line up with your printer’s specifications, then click the Next button.

What Are the Best Cura Settings for Ender 3?

Print Speed

Print speed is arguably the most important slicer setting, with a huge effect on both print times and print quality. Slower speeds tend to produce better details, surface finish, and overall quality – but extends print times. 

For standard filaments like PLA and ABS, a print speed of 50-60 mm/s offers a strong balance of quality and speed. If you’re working with large parts or models and quality isn’t all that important, don’t hesitate to increase print speeds up to 80 mm/s and even higher, though expect blemishes and imperfections as a result.

These recommendations apply for all Ender 3 models including the newer Ender 3 S1 and Ender Neo models. For more specific advice, we also have an article on Ender 3 print speeds.

Hot End Temperature

The correct temperature settings in your Cura profile is vital. The wrong parameter can condemn a print to failure before it’s even started, causing blemishes, poor layer adhesion, and extrusion issues. 

Above are our recommendations for each filament type, though we highly suggest following the manufacturer’s recommendations for your specific brand of filament for the best results. If you’re not getting good results, adjust the temperature in small increments of 5°C until you see improvements. 

For PLA, 200°C tends to get the best out of the Ender 3. Note that the original Ender 3’s nozzle temperature is capped at 240°C, slightly below the upper limit for ABS and PETG, so, depending on the brand, it may struggle to hit the optimum temperature for those filament types. 

All other Ender 3 models (S1, Neo, Pro, V2, Max) push a 250°C nozzle temperature or higher, covering all the most popular material types.

Print Bed Temperature

There’s no universal best bed temperature setting for the Ender 3 – the right temperature is contingent on the type of filament being printed. 

Also, though we can estimate ballpark heated bed temperature ranges for each filament, these can vary between brands, so double-check manufacturer recommendations.

The above recommendations apply to all Ender 3 models, as all variants, including the Pro, S1, Neo, Max, have a heated bed. 

For ABS, you’ll want to pair a 100-110 °C bed temperature with an enclosure for your Ender 3, such as a DIY tent or even one of Creality’s own pop-up chamber tents. The idea here is to remove temperature fluctuations caused by gusts and natural shifts in ambient temperature to maintain a stable thermal environment for ABS to perform at its best.

Layer Height

Layer height determines not just the richness or detail and features, but also overall print times. This is because dialing in a smaller layer height means more layers to complete a print, and, therefore, longer print times. 

As such, the balance is between quality and print times, so the optimal layer height depends more on your needs, expectations, the type of print, and its application. 

For example, a decorative piece with lots of surface details will benefit more from a lower layer height, while a large, functional piece subject to wear and tear is best printed with a higher layer height to reduce print times but also because aesthetics aren’t all that important.

For the Ender 3, layer heights are best dialed in increments of 0.04 mm because the Ender 3’s z-axis stepper motor moves by a multiple of that distance per step. This is down to the way the threaded rod lifts the x carriage per revolution and how that relates to the number of steps per rotation. 

Retraction

Retraction determines by what distance and at what speed the extruder pulls back filament into the nozzle during non-printing travel movements. 

Retraction settings oozing, stringing, and other forms of excess filament deposition, aiming to produce sharper and overall higher-quality prints with fewer artifacts and unsightly material build-up.

Again, the right settings depend on your filament type, and which Ender 3 you have. The Bowden extruder Ender 3s, including the Ender 3, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, and Ender 3 Max require a shorter but slower retraction to compensate for the longer filament path through the tubing. 

While Ender 3s equipped with the Sprite Direct Drive extruder setup benefit most from a longer retraction distance and faster retraction speed to make the most of the precision of the onboard print assembly extruder. For upgrading, we also have an article on Ender 3 direct drive upgrades.

For stringing-prone filaments like TPU and PETG, a tighter retraction distance, as low as 4 mm, works best, with the speed dialed around 25 mm/s. 

Retraction can be quite temperamental, so it’s worth dialing in these general settings, then running stress test prints and adjusting up/down in small increments until you eliminate most, if not all, instances of stringing. We’ve also written an in-depth article on Ender 3 retraction settings.

Infill Density

Infill refers to the innards of a print, and infill density in particular, measured as a percentage, determines how much filament and what pattern is used to create the infill. 

As with other settings like bed temperature and hot end temperature, the ‘best’ infill density is print specific. 

For display pieces destined for a life on a shelf, use a lower density. This will cut down on filament usage and print times. Typical densities for these types of prints range anywhere from 0% (check out Cura Vase Mode, for example) up to 15-20% for more durable models.

As for more functional models and parts subject to wear and tear or regular handling, then a higher infill density improves overall structural integrity, strength, weight, durability, and longevity. Common infill density for these types of prints is usually above 50%. But for Ender 3 infill Cura settings, this will be rare.

There’s also an in-between for prints that don’t quite fall into either category, with densities ranging between 15% and 50%. As you can see, this variety means it’s hard to know the best infill density without knowing the specifics of a project and the target application.

Infill Patterns

Diving into Cura’s infill patterns reveals a selection of options, 14 different patterns to be exact. Not all of these are created equal, nor are they suited to all types of prints. 

The pattern dictates the shape of the infill, and affects the print’s overall strength and flexibility, and how much filament is required. 

Here’s a breakdown of the different attributes of the most popular infill patterns found in Cura:

Unless you’re determined to have strength or flexibility in a print, then standard infill patterns like Triangles, Cubic, Lines, and Zig-Zag will work for the majority of prints.

Initial Layer Print Speed

Initial layer speed is similar to the global print speed, except that it relates only to the first layer laid down by the printer. 

A lower initial layer speed promotes better adhesion, setting the rest of the print up for success. If you’re struggling to get a clean first layer down, this is the setting to save the day.

We recommend dropping it down to around 25 to 30 mm/s for the best results, as the slower speed allows the filament to create a much stronger and more durable bond to the bed and between those first few layers. 

As the setting only affects the first few layers, it doesn’t increase overall print times by much at all, so it’s well worth slowing down to avoid print failures and errors later on.

Initial Layer Height

As a general rule, you’ll want an initial layer height larger than the global layer height, typically somewhere around 0.20 mm. We also recommend tuning the Initial Bottom Layers to 5 or 6 layers to nail that bed adhesion.

FAQs:

Slicer settings are the printing parameters, like nozzle temperature and print speed, that are controlled in the 3D slicer software (e.g. Cura). While you don’t need to know every slicer setting, there are a handful of extremely important settings that significantly affect the outcome of a print.

In this article, we’ll explore the most powerful slicer settings that can make all the difference in producing beautiful and useful 3D prints.

From layer height to print speed, we’ll cover what each setting does and how to adjust them to achieve the best results.

So whether you’re a seasoned 3D printing pro or just starting out, read on to learn how to get the most out of your slicer settings!

What is a Slicer?

A slicer is a type of 3D printing software that takes a digitized 3D model and converts it into instructional commands that your 3D printer can interpret and follow to create the desired physical 3D print.

In essence, the slicer takes the CAD model (STL file) and “cuts” it into layers. Think of a series of 2D pictures stacked on top of each other to create a 3D model.

The slicer software then calculates how much material needs to be used for that layer, where the material should go, and how long it will take to print.

It then converts all of the information for each layer into one GCode file which is sent to your printer. You set up the job and, voila! Sometime later you have a physical representation of the 3D CAD model.

As you can see, the slicer plays an integral role in helping turn your 3D ideas into reality. Therefore, how you use the slicer, specifically how you use the settings, is often a critical difference between printing success and failure.

In this article, we’re going to look at 6 key slicer settings that are common to all the major slicer programs. We’ll tell you what they’re for and we’ll explain how to use them to increase your chances of producing beautiful and useful objects each and every time you print.

Best 3D Printer Slicer Settings

1. Layer Height

Layer height is the 3D slicer setting that establishes the height, or thickness, of each layer of filament in your print. In some sense, layer height in 3D printing is akin to resolution in photography or videography.

But on top of the level of detail on a 3D print, the layer height also impacts the print time, part strength, and surface quality.

Smaller layer heights result in 3D prints with more layers, and this allows your machine to better capture small features and geometries on your print. Larger layer heights will have fewer layers and, thus, less detail.

Another benefit of using a smaller layer height is that prints have less visible layer lines and feel smoother due to the higher number of layers used. 

Though larger layer heights produce a rough surface texture, they offer enhanced part strength and shorter print times than smaller layer heights.

For reference, the most common layer height value is 0.2 mm, as it provides a nice mix of print time, strength, detail, and surface quality. 

But, if you’re printing a model, like a miniature figurine, where detail is a top priority, then consider lowering the layer height to 0.16 mm or lower. 

On the other hand, if you’re printing a large box or container, where strength and print time should be prioritized over detail, then you might want to increase to 0.24 mm.

You don’t have to worry too much about the layer height setting, though, when printing PLA or ABS as both materials are pretty forgiving when it comes to this setting.

Before I move onto a different setting, though, it’s worth noting that you should try to use a layer height value that’s divisible by the Z-axis stepper motor’s step distance, also called the “magic number”. 

Most printers, like the Creality Ender 3, use NEMA-17 motors that have a step distance of 0.04 mm. So, if you have one of these printers, consider using a layer height divisible by 4, like 0.16, 0.2, or 0.24 mm (add/minus 0.04 mm).

Don’t worry too much about the layer height, though, as most filaments, including PLA and ABS, are pretty forgiving when it comes to this setting. If your 3D printer has a 0.4-mm nozzle, any layer height between 0.12 and 0.28 mm should produce decent results.

2. Shell Thickness

A shell is the outer wall of a designed object. Shell thickness refers to the number of layers that the outer wall will have before infill printing will begin. The higher the setting is for shell thickness, the thicker the outer walls of your object will be.

Obviously, thicker walls make for a sturdier object, so if strength is a quality that you’re after, it pays to increase the shell thickness appropriately.

Conversely, delicate or decorative designs do not usually require strength. Increasing the shell thickness in these instances provides no real benefit and will likely distort the design of the object being printed.

You should try to set the shell thickness as a multiple of the nozzle print width, which should be equal to the nozzle size (diameter). Most printers use a 0.4-mm nozzle and print width, so shell thicknesses of 0.8, 1.2, or 1.6 mm will work best.

3. Retraction

Retraction is where the 3D printer extruder pulls back a small length of filament to relieve built-up pressure in the hot end to prevent oozing and ensure accurate extrusion. But, for retraction to occur, you need to activate the retraction setting in your 3D slicer.

The basic retraction setting is usually a checkbox, but, once activated, there are a handful of related settings that you can change to further tune the retraction process. 

Easily the two most important of these are:

• Retraction length
• Retraction speed

The retraction length controls the length of filament pulled back during each retraction move, while the retraction speed controls how fast the extruder pulls the filament back. 

Generally, the higher the retraction length and speed, the less you’ll experience stringing and oozing. But, adjusting too far can cause other issues, like filament grinding, hot end jams, and more.

The best values for these two settings depend on your extruder configuration. 

• Bowden-drive printers, like the Prusa Mini+, work best with more intensive retraction settings, including a retraction length of 4-5 mm and a speed of 40-60 mm/s. 
• Direct drive printers, like the Prusa i3 MK3S+, yield better results with lower retraction settings, like a length of 0.5-1.0 mm and a speed of 30-50 mm/s.

4. Fill Density

Infill density is a measure of how much material will be printed inside the outer shell of the object in question. Fill density is usually measured as a percentage of the whole, as opposed to a unit of measure.

This means that if 100% fill density is selected, the printed object will be solid, with no empty space inside the outer shell. Likewise, if 0% is selected, the object will be printed hollow.

Generally, an object with more infill will be stronger and heavier than an object with less infill – but will take noticeably longer to print. 

A typical infill density is around 20%. This provides a nice mix of print time, part strength, material usage, and weight. However, feel free to increase this value for more strength (or weight) or decrease it to save material and print time.

In general, when printing PLA and ABS, you should try keeping the infill density between 10 and 30%:

• Densities below 10% are extremely weak while not saving much filament or time. 
• Densities above 30% consume an excessive amount of filament without providing much additional strength – so it’s not worth the cost.

Infill Pattern

The infill pattern is another infill slicer setting, and it controls the shape and structure of the internal filling of the print.

The infill pattern affects a part’s strength, weight, and print time. There are trade-offs with different infill patterns, and those that provide more strength usually cost you additional print time and filament.

Some common infill patterns, available in most 3D slicers, include grid, lines, cubic, concentric, gyroid, and honeycomb. I’ve briefly gone over a few of these infill patterns and their benefits:

• Grid: The grid infill pattern is one of the simplest, hence why it’s so commonly used. Not only does the grid infill pattern help ensure a successful print, but it also provides a nice mix of low print times and decent part strength.
• Cubic: The cubic infill pattern provides high strength across all axes of the model, and it also doesn’t add too much print time. Cubic is my personal favorite infill pattern and I use it for both generic and functional prints.
• Concentric: This infill pattern is great for printing flexible models, where you want the walls to be able to bend and fold.
• Gyroid: The gyroid infill pattern offers equal strength across all directions, and it looks super cool when exposed (no shell layers).

5. Print Speed

Print speed is how fast the print head travels while extruding filament. Therefore, the optimal print speed depends on the object you’re printing and the filament material that you are using.

In general, simple objects with less detail can be printed faster without any issues, so it’s recommended to use higher speeds for these types of models. But if you’re printing a complex model with intricate features, use a lower print speed.

Your slicer’s default print speed will depend on your printer, extruder, layer height, material, and a few other factors. However, I suggest adjusting the value based on how complex and delicate your print is.

A print speed between 40 and 60 mm/s is typical for PLA and ABS, but, remember, you will likely have to adjust.

Furthermore, if you’re experiencing issues like under-extrusion on prints, consider lowering the print speed as the setting is (typically) indirectly correlated with print quality. However, note that certain issues, like stringing and blobbing, can result from too low of a print speed, so keep this in mind.

6. Bottom/Top Thickness

This setting determines how much material will be laid down before the infill printing starts and how much material will be laid down after the infill printing is finished. The thickness of the material at the top and bottom of your object is important for two reasons.

First, thicker material at the bottom of your object will provide a stronger and more stable base. Second, thicker material at the top of your object will prevent sagging and pillowing from occurring when the top layer of material is laid down over the infill lattice.

This is especially important if you are using a smaller layer height setting. In such a case, the thinness of the layer can be insufficient to completely cover the infill unless multiple layers are used.

Setting the bottom/top thickness to be 6 to 8 times greater than the layer height ensures that there is enough material being laid down to adequately cover the infill without complications.

7. Spiralize – Smooth out the Z Scar

If you’ve printed an object and on one side there appears a vertical scar all the way up the print, this is called a Z scar (also known as a “zipper”). It’s formed from the printer starting and stopping each layer at this point.

This scar can be unsightly, and on very thin prints also significantly weaken the structure.

To remove the Z scar, you’re going to need to activate the Spiralize feature in your slicer. This makes the outer layers print in a continuous line all the way up the print, meaning there’s no definitive stop and start point and therefore no scar formed.

To activate Spiralize feature and remove the vertical scar:

In Cura, it’s called the “Spiralize outer contour” feature, in other slicers it may be slightly different. Make sure this option is checked when you convert your STL file to a Gcode.

It is useful to remember to only change one slicer setting at a time so that you can see the effect that the change is having on your print. If the change is beneficial, write down the change that was made and proceed, if necessary, to change another setting.

Changing multiple settings at the same time can cause chaotic conditions and a positive effect can be canceled out by one or more negative effects.

It may be useful when planning prints to know the length of filament on each size spool for various materials and sizes. To help with this, we’ve created this filament calculator.

8. Temperature

Temperature is easily one of the most important slicer settings for a 3D print. Typically, there are two main temperature slicer settings: the nozzle temperature and the bed temperature (for heated beds).

In the sub-sections below, I’ve gone over everything you should know for each type of temperature setting!

Nozzle Temperature

The nozzle temperature, sometimes called the printing temperature, affects the flow of filament material.

You should set the nozzle temperature based on the filament material you’re using, as different materials can work with vastly different temperatures. 

For example, PLA filaments work best with a nozzle temperature of 190-215°C, while ABS filaments work better with a higher nozzle temperature of 220-240°C.

It’s important to tune the nozzle temperature because too high a value can cause over-extrusion issues, like stringing, blobbing, and zits on the surface of the print due to the accelerated melting process. 

However, using too low nozzle temperature causes under-extrusion (e.g. gaps in the layers), as well as weaker, more brittle parts due to weaker layer-to-layer bonds.

While you don’t need to be spot-on when setting the nozzle temperature, I suggest printing a temperature tower model to evaluate which temperature works best with your specific filament spool.

So, make sure to try a few different nozzle temperatures so you can find that “Goldilocks” value!

Bed Temperature

Bed temperature is also very important. But, unlike the nozzle temperature which affects material flow, the bed temperature mainly impacts bed adhesion, or how well 3D prints stick to the print surface.

Generally, the higher the bed temperature, the better the bed adhesion. And, just like with nozzle temperature, what bed temperature is best depends on the filament material you’re printing.

If you’re printing PLA, while technically you don’t need a heated bed (0°C), it’s recommended to use a bed temperature between 50°C and 60°C. 

But, if you’re printing ABS, you’ll need to use a much higher bed temperature, somewhere between 90°C and 110°C, as this material softens at higher temperatures.

9. Flow Rate

Flow rate, also known as the extrusion multiplier, is a slicer setting that controls the true extrusion of filament. 

The flow rate is extremely useful for preventing over and under-extrusion, resulting in better-detailed, stronger prints. Flow rate can also help you achieve more dimensionally-accurate prints.

Ideally, the flow rate should be 100%, meaning that the printer will use exactly the estimated length of filament to produce the model. However, many external factors, from the extruder E-steps to the nozzle temperature, impact filament extrusion. So, 100% typically isn’t the best E-steps value to use if you’re looking to produce a dimensionally-accurate model.

For example, let’s say that you’re printing a 3DBenchy but your machine typically under-extrudes prints by 2-5%. 3D printing with a 100% flow rate would result in an under-extruded model, with gaps in the layers, so it would be best to either increase the flow rate or fix other extrusion-related issues (e.g. partial nozzle clogs).

It’s important not to confuse the flow rate slicer setting with the E-steps value, which controls the extruder motor’s motion. Moreover, while E-steps can also be used to combat extrusion issues, the E-steps value is inherently a physical machine parameter, not a digital slicer setting like flow rate.

Generally, your flow rate won’t be outside the 90-100% range, but this depends on your specific printer. 

If your 3D prints don’t show any noticeable over-extrusion, under-extrusion, or dimensional accuracy issues, I recommend leaving the flow rate setting alone. But, if you’re experiencing one of these problems, I suggest following a flow rate tuning guide, like this video tutorial.

10. Cooling

The cooling process is critical to the quality of any 3D print, especially when printing overhangs or other delicate geometries. The fan speed slicer setting is best for managing your printer’s cooling levels, and it controls how fast the part-cooling fan (the one pointed at the nozzle) is spinning.

Depending on your 3D slicer software, the fan speed slicer setting is set as either a percentage or absolute value. And, as you might expect, the higher the fan speed, the more cooling is provided during the printing process.

The optimal fan speed value depends on your filament and the model you’re printing. PLA requires moderate cooling, so an 80-100% fan speed is typical, but materials like PETG and PC work better with lower fan speeds, like 20-50%. 

And then there are some materials, like ABS, where it’s recommended to completely turn off part cooling (0% fan speed).

Additionally, if your model has a lot of overhangs or bridging features, you’ll want to use a higher fan speed. That’s because using too low of a fan speed can cause drooping with overhangs and bridges.

Conversely, make sure not to set the fan speed too high as this can cause layer separation and cracking on prints.

However, one exception to all of these generalizations is the first layer. The fan is typically turned off during the first layer to improve the bottom surface and bed adhesion, and you should check that your slicer’s first-layer fan speed is 0%.

11. Supports

Supports are slicer-generated structures that hold up overhanging features on models. Supports aren’t on every print as you’re only supposed to use them when absolutely necessary, as they require additional filament material, extend print time, and hurt the surface finish of your model.

However, if you’re printing a model with a significant overhang (>55°), supports are necessary for a successful print. And there are a few slicer parameters, besides the basic “Activate Supports” setting, that you can use to tune how supports are generated and printed.

I’ve listed and briefly described a few critical slicer settings related to supports:

• Support Type: Depending on your slicer software, you might have multiple options for the type of support structures that are generated. The two most popular options are regular (rectilinear) and tree supports, and the latter is considered better for handling overhangs in difficult-to-reach places. Both PLA and ABS work well with regular and tree supports, so feel free to use either.
• Overhang Angle: The support overhang angle is a fairly-universal slicer setting that controls the minimum steepness of an overhang area for the slicer to generate support structures. The higher this value, set in degrees, the fewer support structures will be printed. I suggest setting the overhang angle to 50-55°, and increasing if you feel comfortable.
• Minimum Support Area: The minimum support area setting controls how large an overhang area must be for the slicer to generate support structures. The large the value, set in millimeters, the fewer support structures will be printed.
• Support Z Distance: Lastly, this setting controls the gap that the printer leaves between the top of a support structure and the beginning of the actual model. A larger support Z distance will make removing support structures from your model after printing easier. For PLA and ABS, I suggest keeping this setting between 0.1 and 0.3 mm.

12. Adhesive Aids

Lastly, adhesive aids are a class of slicer settings that are critical to achieving adequate bed adhesion on prints. If you’re unfamiliar with the term, “adhesive aids” refers to slicer-generated structures that are printed before your actual model to ensure the first layer properly adheres to the print surface.

If the first layer doesn’t stick well to the bed, then your print might fail completely, or, in the best case, your print will be warped and dimensionally inaccurate. As such, knowing what adhesive aid to use is critical to a successful print.

There are three types of adhesive aids: skirts, brims, and rafts. Each offers different advantages and disadvantages, and I’ve described each in the bullet points below:

• Skirt: A distant and detached perimeter that outlines a print, useful for getting material flowing smoothly and making last-minute bed leveling adjustments.
• Brim: Extra filament extruded as concentric rings from a print’s first layer, helpful for prints with a small “footprint” or low surface area contact with the bed.
• Raft: An entire part on its own upon which the model is built, useful for preventing warping and ensuring the print doesn’t have to touch the surface.

Here’s a simple breakdown of the different properties of each type of adhesive aid:

I suggest using a skirt when you have no issues with bed adhesion, a brim for minor bed adhesion issues, and a raft if you’re dealing with warping every print job.

If you’re printing PLA, a skirt or a brim is usually all you need. However, other filament materials, like ABS and PC, are known to have more bed adhesion issues, so you’ll want to use either a brim or raft.

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Best 3D slicers
• Best resin 3D slicers
• Best slicers for Ender 3
• Cura Vase Mode: Complete Guide