Key Takeaways

• Ender 3 enclosures: The article reviews and recommends various enclosures for the Ender 3 range of 3D printers, which can improve print quality, reduce noise, and protect the printer from dust and damage.
• Pre-made enclosures: The article features seven pre-made enclosure options, such as the official Creality enclosure, the 3D UpFitters enclosure, the Innovator 3D enclosure, and the Wham Bam HotBox V2 enclosure. Each option has its pros and cons in terms of price, compatibility, visibility, assembly, and features.
• DIY enclosures: The article also provides four DIY enclosure ideas, such as using a photography studio tent, foam exercise mats, an IKEA LACK table, or a wooden frame. These ideas are cheaper and more customizable than pre-made enclosures, but may require more tools and skills to build.
• Enclosure buying tips: The article offers some tips on how to choose the best enclosure for your Ender 3, such as checking the dimensions, materials, ventilation, accessibility, and assembly difficulty. It also explains why an enclosure is beneficial for printing with heat-sensitive filaments like ABS.

Easy on the wallet and capable of quality prints, the Ender 3 range (Pro, V2 and S1) are also ripe for DIY upgrades.

From pre-made choices to DIY options you can build for basically free, the best Ender 3 enclosures offer something for everyone

The choice I’d recommend for 80% of folks is the official Creality Ender 3 Enclosure.

It’s easy to assemble, with a good-sized viewing window. It’s particularly good at printing heat-sensitive materials – and is more affordable than you’d expect

If your priority is 360-degree visibility, you should check out the 3D UpFitters Ender 3 Enclosure. it’s a little more complicated to assemble, but it’s a great pick for more detailed projects where you need a clearer view.

We’ll highlight the best among these popular Ender 3 add-ons, and also provide a few top Ender 3 enclosure buying tips to keep in mind.

Buyable Ender 3 Enclosures

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Official Creality Ender 3 Enclosure

• Price: Check price at Creality store / Check here on Amazon
• Assembly: Easy-to-assemble iron pipe/three-way connector frame
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Large front door with zip
• Print Visibility: See-through front screen with zip, velcroed side and top opening

Although Creality opted not to equip the Ender 3 with an enclosure, the company offers its very own official-vetted enclosure for the Ender 3 in all its incarnations.

The enclosure’s biggest strength is that it’s designed specifically for the Ender 3, so no faffing around checking dimensions – the Ender 3 just fits, with room to spare.

It also offers sufficient top space to squeeze in a spool of 1kg filament.

With toolless, easy assembly, the official Creality enclosure consists of a rigid iron pipe frame held together by three-way connectors, on top of which sits a heat-containing cover to prevent drafts.

The inner layer is made of an aluminum film, while a flame-retardant fabric coats the outer layer.

The official Creality Ender 3 enclosure can maintain temperatures far better, ideal for printing with ABS, ASA, PC, and other heat-sensitive materials. Creality says the enclosure helps muffle printing sounds and has also thrown in a handy side-mounted tool pouch.

A zipped window that runs almost the front and top of the enclosure offers easy access to the printer and a good-sized viewing window.

Smaller right side and top openings with velcro covers grant two additional angles to access the printer without removing the entire enclosure.

3D UpFitters Ender 3 Enclosure

• Price: Starting at $200.00
• Assembly: Fairly involved, comes with high-quality, well-guided assembly instructions
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Hinged front door with magnetic latch and left-side door
• Print Visibility: Acrylic see-through panels on all sides

If you’re looking for a sturdier alternative to Creality’s tent-style enclosure above, 3D UpFitters’ Ender 3 kit is a solid option.

The company specializes in 3D printer enclosures and levies that expertise to offer some of the best options on the market.

The enclosure is made of high-quality acrylic panels held together by ABS connector brackets. This means complete visibility of the printing process from all angles and the ability to maintain an internal temperature above 30°C.

A hinged front door with magnetic latches and a side-mounted two-panel swing door means easy access to the printer.

The kit even comes with a custom mount and extender cable to position the Ender 3’s power supply outside the enclosure.

It also features cable routing holes to position the printer’s display outside the enclosure for easy print control. 3D UpFitters’ Ender 3 enclosure starts at around $200.00.

The company offers a range of add-ons, including a carbon air filter, temperature gauge, spool holder, vent system with fan/dryer hose adapter, interior LEDs, etc.

You can shave off a few dollars by opting to print the connectors yourself using ABS, something the company facilitates by providing STL files.

Assembly is reasonably involved and takes some time, but 3D UpFitters’ high-quality instructions are good enough for those usually daunted by DIY assembly to follow.

Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure

• Price: Starting at $165
• Assembly: Fairly complex, Fairly involved, comes with high-quality, well-guided assembly instructions and videos
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Hinged front door
• Print Visibility: See-through acrylic front and side panels

If you’re looking for an enclosure that ships with all the bells and whistles with the price tag to match, then look no further than Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure. 

Designed from the ground up to create a sealed, heat-retaining cocoon for your Ender 3 to thrive in, the Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure is pieced together using large sheets of sturdy metal, see-through acrylic panels, and heavy-duty hardware.

It’s designed to maintain ideal printing temperatures, and also ships with a built-in 2-phase HEPA/activated carbon filtration system to clean air contaminated by fumes and particles (VOCs), partially useful if you’re working with ABS and other filaments that give off more fumes.

The enclosure also has its own internal control panel, and there’s also a smart heater with the ability to set a desired temperature – and even an option to add internal lighting.

It’s a more involved setup than an enclosure tet, though there’s good instructions to make sure it isn’t too taxing for you. On my Ender 3 V2 Neo, I’d say it’s overkill, but if I’m working on my Ender 3 S1 Pro, and want to print tougher filaments, I’d prefer something like this. 

The Innovator 3D Printer Enclosure comes in two sizes, with the larger option big enough to house even the largest Ender 3 models like the Ender 3 Max and Ender 3 Max Neo.

Wham Bam HotBox V2 Enclosure

• Price: Starting at $120.00
• Assembly: Pre-assembled, effortless two-minute set-up
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Neo
• Printer Access: Large zipped front/top door
• Print Visibility: See-through front panel

Wham Bam’s HotBox V2 enclosure is a solid option if you want to transform the Ender 3 into an ABS-ready printer with as little hassle as possible.

It comes fully assembled with a setup involving no more than two zippers.

The HotBox V2 is made up of a semi-rigid, lightweight polymer honeycomb insulating structure with a high-grade Nylon 600D outer layer and metallic heat-containing internal lining.

These materials keep out drafts and maintain a steady internal temperature.

A large front-facing velcro panel allows you to view and access the printer, while dual side-mounted zippers see the front and cover open up completely for even easier access to the printer.

There are metal-lined filament passages mounted throughout, with plugs to seal them when not in use.

Cable passages and velcro retainers feature on all sides, along with an air vent port, and even an in-built thermometer for monitoring. The top panel features a velcro panel for the Ender 3’s spool holder to sit outside the enclosure.

Other notable features include loops for a pair of LED light bars on the front panel should you fancy the upgrade along with a useful tool pouch on the enclosure’s side.

It folds up flat for easy transportation and storage.

DIY Ender 3 Enclosures

Photography Studio Tent

• Price: Up to $50
• Assembly: None required, pop-up tent
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro
• Printer Access: Zipper door or flap
• Print Visibility: Poor, tent is designed to reflect light so isn’t see-through

A repurposed photography studio tent offers a solid enclosure option, but one that is easy to set up and won’t break the bank. 

Tents are widely available in a range of sizes to fit all Ender 3 models – just make sure you measure up before buying. If you can’t find one with enough height, consider mounting the spool outside of the tent

The tents are typically made of flame-retardant plastic sheets (to cater for photography lights placed inside) that do a reasonably good job of containing heat, offering the Ender 3 a cozy environment to print filaments like ABS. It’s not the most insulative, but for those on a budget, it’s more than sufficient for most print projects.

The major downside of a tent is that the plastic sheets are designed to reflect heat and have a murky white finish. As a consequence, photography tents offer no visibility of the printer, but do come with a zipper door or flap that makes accessing it easier. 

The material is also easy to make holes in to feed in cables or filament, giving you more flexibility. And, putting it together takes no effort at all – they ship preassembled, and all you need to do is place the Ender 3 inside.

Exercise and Kids Mats

• Price: $20.00-$30.00
• Assembly: Very easy, interlocking puzzle teeth
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Neo
• Printer Access: Easily remove one of the mats to access the printer
• Print Visibility: Poor

Although not the first thing that comes to mind, foam exercise and kid’s play mats constitute a viable DIY option for an Ender 3 enclosure.

In particular, mats that have interlocking puzzle teeth on the sides can be combined easily and quickly to create a cube large enough to house an Ender 3.

No need for tools or screws – simply push them together.

While their material (usually ethylene vinyl acetate) may not be known for its insulative properties, and the imprecise, toothy cuts may be prone to letting through small drafts, these mats prove surprisingly competent at maintaining a steady temperature.

Due to manufacturers having to stick to rigid standards, they are generally non-flammable.

They are also comparatively cheap when stacked up against pre-made enclosures. Expect to pay as little as $20.00 to $30.00 for the six panels required for a six-sided cube enclosure.

There are, of course, downsides.

Unless you carve out an opening and install an acrylic panel, there’s no way to monitor a print without removing one of the mats. Depending on the mat’s thickness, fitting in an opening for the filament spool might be troublesome, too.

IKEA LACK Table

• Price: $13.00 IKEA LACK table, $60.00 panel kit, cost of filament to 3D print brackets
• Assembly: Complex
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Neo
• Printer Access: Hinged front door
• Print Visibility: Excellent, see-through front, back, and side panels

A favorite among seasoned makers, the IKEA LACK table enclosure is a classic DIY option.

Though not initially conceived for the Ender 3, it works a treat to transform any small-ish open-design printer into a machine capable of handling even the most temperamental filament types.

The basic idea is to take a cheap, sturdy, and readily available IKEA LACK side table, then mount acrylic panels on the front, back, and sides with 3D printed brackets to create a toasty thermal environment for ABS, Nylon, PC, and more to thrive.

You won’t need custom-cut acrylic panels as you can buy kits from Amazon and the like.

These include cut-to-size acrylic panels with cabling holes, magnets, and hardware. STL files for the 3D printed parts are also available on sites like Thingiverse.

Visibility is unsurprisingly excellent, with views of the printer from the front, back, and sides.

Kits also generally include a hinged door or a removable front panel for printer access.

You can even stack multiple LACK tables to create storage space or fashion and attach all manner of creative add-ons like lights, a thermometer, or an external spool holder to the side table’s wooden frame.

Whatever way you look at it, this is a DIY project, so assembly is very much hands-on with a good dose of problem-solving if you don’t go down the kit route – one for the experienced DIYers or motivated beginners out there.

Wood Enclosure

• Price: $100.00-$200.00 depending on the cost of wood
• Assembly: Medium-hard difficulty
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Optional hinged front door or removable panel
• Print Visibility: Potentially excellent if using four acrylic panels

Similar to the IKEA LACK build, a wooden enclosure is a viable alternative to a pre-made option, especially if you’re good with your hands and have some woodworking experience.

Generally, those who’ve gone down this route build a wood frame and then attach wood panels and one acrylic panel on the front for visibility to create an enclosed space for the Ender 3.

Assembly can vary in complexity depending on your plans.

Wood is one of the more workable materials, but you need the right tools – a circular saw, drill, etc. The lack of precise guides means you’ll need to measure the correct dimensions yourself.

The whole project could cost next to nothing if you can gather up any spare wood lying around and 3D print the brackets for the acrylic panels.

Otherwise, expect to pay anywhere from $100.00 to $200.00, depending on the cost of wood in your area.

Plastic Sheets and PVC Frame

• Price: $20-$40
• Assembly: Medium complexity
• Compatibility: Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 Neo, Ender 3 V2 Neo, Ender 3 Max Neo, Ender 3 S1, Ender 3 S1 Pro, Ender 3 S1 Plus
• Printer Access: Door cut into sheet with velcro holds or removable sheet
• Print Visibility: Poor, unless you use see-through material

It’s possible to piece together an inexpensive, rudimentary Ender 3 enclosure with no more than a sheet of plastic, a basic frame made of PVC, for example, and strong adhesive like duct tape.

The process is pretty intuitive.

It involves assembling a frame, draping the sheet over and holding it down with tape. The printer then sits underneath, benefiting from the right controlled thermal environment to handle heat-sensitive filament.

In terms of equipment, we recommend any non-flammable and heat-resistant plastic sheet; the thicker, the better, as extra width generally pumps up the insulative properties.

Depending on your visibility preference, you may also want to go for see-through sheets.

As for the frame, a popular option is PVC, as it can be combined without tools, relying instead on friction to hold it together. This makes it easier to build and disassemble for transportation or storage.

Another popular alternative is to 3D print the frame yourself, further reducing costs.

Assembly shouldn’t be too taxing but could vary depending on the frame material you go for.

For printer access, you can either remove a section of the sheet as needed or cut out a door and attach velcro dots to the frame to keep it closed during printing.

Advantages of an Enclosure for Your Ender 3

Temperature Control

An enclosure creates a stable thermal environment.

Without an enclosure, the Ender 3 is subject to ambient temperature fluctuation caused by natural shifts and factors like drafts.

An enclosure allows for a consistent environment, essential if you need consistent and reliable results when reproducing the same model and part.

Fumes, Odors, Noise Reduction

An Ender 3 enclosure contains the fumes created when melting certain filament types.

These fumes can have hazardous consequences when breathed in. Similarly, many heat-sensitive filament types produce unpleasant odors, which an enclosure can help reduce, which is useful if you can’t set up the printer in a well-ventilated area.

A further benefit is noise reduction. An enclosure can help muffle stepper motor and fan noise.

Safety

An enclosure offers a protective cocoon around the Ender 3 to shield it from accidental knocks and bumps, and also protect users, children, and others from injuring themselves on the hot nozzle or heated bed.

Storage

An enclosure protects a printer from dust and debris when not in use, extending its lifespan and minimizing the need for regular cleaning.

Buyer’s Guide – Things to Consider When Choosing an Enclosure For Your Creality Ender 3

The Differences in Enclosing Each Ender 3 Printer

While they’re all based on the same core frame, components, and design, some Ender 3s have a different-sized footprint. So, it’s super important to buy an enclosure large enough to house your specific Ender 3 model.

The Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 Neo are the same as the original Ender 3, but some are larger, like the Ender 3 Max, Ender 3 S1 Plus and S1 Pro, Ender 3 Max and Max Neo.

Here are their dimensions for easy reference:

Material Choice and Potential Issues

Pay close attention to the properties of the material used to make an enclosure.

Non-flammable and heat-resistant materials are a must-have as they drastically reduce the potential for fires. You’ll also want to consider their insulative properties, favoring those that naturally trap heat, such as acrylic.

For parts like brackets that you can 3D print yourself, we suggest avoiding PLA due to its low melting point in favor of ABS, which can withstand the higher temperatures created by an enclosure.

Exhaust Stem

Although not essential, you may want to consider an enclosure, whether DIY or pre-made, fitted with a vent/exhaust and air filtration system.

These can help filter out toxic fumes and funnel hot air away from the Ender 3’s more sensitive components, such as the power supply and other electronic parts.

Effects of Temperature of the Ender 3’s Hardware

Although trapping in heat does wonders for 3D printing ABS and other filaments, it can wreak havoc on the Ender 3’s components.

In particular, too much heat can affect the lifespan and performance of electronic parts such as the power supply, display, and mainboard.

We recommend enclosures that offer well-placed vents to move air away from these components like on the 3D UpFitters enclosure or allow you to house them outside the enclosure or away from the heat sources (nozzle and bed).

Assembly and Storage

Consider how easy an enclosure is to assemble and disassemble, especially if you don’t plan on having a permanent setup.

For example, an IKEA LACK Table enclosure is more or less impossible to disassemble quickly. On the other hand, a tent-style option like the HotBox V2 folds away for storage in seconds.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check out our other Ender 3 upgrade guides to learn more:

• Ender 3 Laser Engraver & Cutter Upgrades Reviewed for V2/Pro Models
• Dual Extruder Upgrades for Creality Ender 3: Pro, V2, and S1
• Top Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrades for 2023: V2 and Pro
• Best Ender 3 Extension Kit Upgrades
• The Best Auto Bed Leveling Upgrades for Ender 3
• Comprehensive Guide to Every Type of Ender 3 Fan Upgrades
• Best Hot End Upgrades for Ender 3 Pro/V2

Key Takeaways

• Ender 3 retraction settings: The article explains how to tune the retraction settings for the Ender 3 range of 3D printers to stop stringing, which is a common issue that causes wispy strands of filament on the print surface.
• Retraction mechanism: The article describes how retraction works by pulling back the filament from the nozzle during travel moves, which reduces the pressure and oozing that lead to stringing. It also covers various retraction settings and their effects.
• Optimal retraction settings: The article provides optimal retraction settings for different models of Ender 3, such as the Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 S1, and Ender 3 S1 Pro, as well as different filament types and print speeds. It also suggests performing retraction tests to fine-tune the settings.
• Other factors affecting stringing: The article discusses other factors that can influence stringing, such as hot end temperature, travel speed, filament quality and storage, PTFE tubing condition, nozzle cleanliness, and print path optimization. It offers tips and solutions for each factor.

Is stringing souring your time with the Ender 3?

I’ve been there – wispy plastic residue ruining otherwise perfectly good prints.

In short, it all comes down to dialing in the best Ender 3 retraction settings.

This guide will cover everything I’ve learned about this all too common phenomenon – how to set the perfect Ender 3 retraction settings, along with a few housekeeping tricks I use to prevent stringing.

You’re likely here for specific slicer settings, so I’ll provide those, too. Let’s jump in – here’s how to reduce stringing with the best Ender 3 Retraction Settings.

What Causes Stringing?

First, what causes stringing? 

Stringing is the name given to the wispy, cobweb-like strands of filament that trail behind the nozzle when it shifts from one part of a print to another.

It also pops up in gaps (or open air) between two separate vertical parts of a print or any area where no active printing (or deposition) happens.

It’s a byproduct of the ever-present, natural pressure in the filament path continuously pushing plastic through the hot end.

In other words, although the extruder’s gears are no longer actively feeding filament, tiny traces of melted plastic leak out of the nozzle.

Stringing happens when the flow of molten plastic isn’t controlled by the usual deposition of plastic onto a pre-existing layer.

As stringing is linked to the behavior of melted plastic, filaments that print at higher temperatures are more susceptible.

Filaments like PETG are well-known for stringing for this reason, but the most popular Ender 3 filaments, PLA and ABS, are by no means immune to the problem.

Best Retraction Settings For The Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2

Now that we understand what each Ender 3 retraction setting does, here’s my optimal retraction settings:

• Retraction Distance: 5 mm
• Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s to 50 mm/s
• Retraction Extra Prime Amount: 0 mm/s
• Retraction Minimum Travel: 1.5 mm
• Maximum Retraction Count: 10
• Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 10 mm
• Limit Support Retractions: Toggled On
• Combing Mode: Within Infill

These work not just on the classic Ender 3 but also as solid Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 Pro retraction settings — though you can still tweak these based on the results you want.

With these dialed in, it’s crucial to perform an Ender 3 retraction test, such as this one, and adjust the Ender 3 retraction settings as needed. 

You’ll also find a selection of calibration shapes for testing in the Cura marketplace. This video offers a guide on how to get the best out of these types of tests.

Ender 3 V2 Neo Retraction Settings

Though the Ender 3 V2 Neo is based on the V2, it benefits from slightly tweaked retraction settings to remove stringing on the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2.

• Retraction Distance: 6.5 mm
• Retraction Speed: 45 mm/s

As always, your results with these settings may vary depending on filament type and print speed, but they’re a solid starting point.

I don’t recommend lowering the retraction settings below 5 mm as this makes stringing worse in my experience. You can also read my full test of the Ender 3 V2 Neo.

Ender 3 S1 Retraction Settings

As the Ender 3 S1 features a direct drive extruder, the filament path is much shorter, meaning you can get away with a shorter retraction distance.

• Retraction Distance: 0.8 mm
• Retraction Speed: 35 to 45 mm/s

These are also Ender 3 direct drive settings applicable to any Bowden Ender 3s you’ve upgraded to a direct drive extruder.

Ender 3 S1 Pro Retraction Settings

As the Ender 3 S1 Pro is essentially a bulkier version of the Ender 3 S1, the retraction differences don’t differ much between them.

However, the Ender 3 S1 Pro tends to combat stringing more effectively with a slightly higher retraction speed.

• Retraction Distance: 0.8 mm
• Retraction Speed: 50 mm/s

You may want to slightly drop the retraction speed – to somewhere around 0.6 mm – if this doesn’t produce any substantial stringing, but I don’t recommend reducing the speed below 50 mm/s. You can read more in my full test and review of the Ender 3 S1 Pro.

At lower speeds, stringing intensifies and becomes more annoying to deal with. Some other users online have also found success with speeds up to 60 mm/s, so don’t hesitate to raise it a few millimeters if you’re still seeing stringing.

Another useful tip that affects stringing, but only applies to PLA, is to lower the nozzle temperature to around 195°C – rather than the 200-210°C typically recommended by filament manufacturers. This very slightly reduces how fast the filament melts, but enough to substantially reduce stringing, especially when paired with my recommended retraction settings.

How the Right Ender 3 Retraction Settings Stop Stringing

Retraction Settings

Fortunately, there are several ways to reduce or eliminate stringing, the most effective of which is tuning the retraction settings for the Ender 3 in your slicing software.

Retraction is a mechanism built into the extruder that retracts the filament by a short distance.

Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 V2 retraction settings determine when and by how much to pull back the plastic into the nozzle when traveling between points or over a gap. Doing so relieves the built-up pressure in the nozzle and prevents the oozing that leads to stringing.

If you’ve ever glanced at slicer retraction slicing, you’ll know there are quite a few tweakable options. We’ll cover what each one does below. 

For clarity and to serve as many readers as possible, we’ll focus on Ender 3 Cura retraction settings, given it’s the most popular 3D printing slicer. Note that other slicers feature variations on the names of these settings, but they serve the same function.

Enable Retraction

This setting tells the printer to use its retraction mechanism. Though this setting is typically ticked on by default, it’s worth double-checking. All the settings below are redundant without retraction enabled.

Retraction Distance

Retraction distance determines the length of filament pulled back by the extruder for each retraction move (specifically, how much the filament travels within the hot end), but also how much filament is extruded back through the hot end after the retraction move. 

Retraction distance is arguably the most important setting along with speed. It’s a crucial factor in reducing instances of Ender 3 stringing.

As with most aspects of 3D printing, there’s a balance to strike when it comes to tuning retraction settings for the Ender 3.

A short retraction distance won’t be enough to prevent stringing, but you run the risk of filament not reaching the nozzle when needed if you dial in a distance that’s too large. Additionally, retracting too far can cause molten plastic to solidify and clog the hot end.

Retracting the filament too far can also cause what’s known as filament grinding, an issue caused when the extruder gears gnaw away at the filament as it makes repeated passes over the same area. 

Degraded filament has a tougher time making its way through the hot end to the nozzle, which can ruin prints. Parts requiring lots of retraction moves in quick succession are especially prone to filament grinding.

Bowden systems, such as those found on the Ender 3, Ender Pro, and Ender 3 V2, typically need a longer retraction distance due to the larger gap between the extruder and print head assembly. 

For the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro, you can get away with a lower distance because these printers have direct drive extruders, so there’s a shorter filament path.

Retraction Speed

Retraction speed signals how fast the extruder drive gear pulls filament back for every retraction move.

It’s directly related to retraction distance: how fast the defined length of filament travels when retracted. Higher speeds reduce stringing because the filament is whipped up into the nozzle before stringing can occur.

Much like retraction distance, it’s not a case of simply cranking up the retraction speed to solve all your stringing woes.

There’s a balance between reducing stringing with a nippy retraction and setting it so high that it affects the consistency and quality of subsequent printed layers.

Filament grinding is a concern at higher retraction speeds, so tread carefully here to avoid degrading your filament. Another common issue sees the solid filament located higher up in the hot end separate from the molten portion lower down, which can lead to clogs and jams.

Retraction Extra Prime Amount

Following a retraction move, the retraction extra prime amount settings determine how much additional filament is primed to compensate for potential oozing during a travel move. It helps top up the nozzle with the filament when the printer returns to printing.

In most cases, the retraction extra prime amount is best left at its default settings of 0 as it tends to leave blemishes and blobs on your prints when the retraction speed and distance are set correctly.

Retraction Minimum Travel

Retraction minimum travel sets a minimum distance of travel threshold beyond which retraction is triggered, and the filament is then pulled away from the nozzle.

The idea here is to limit the number of unwanted retractions in quick succession over a small area. Set too low, and when combined with aggressive retraction speed/distance settings, it can exacerbate grinding and damage your filament.

Maximum Retraction Count

Maximum Retraction Count sets a maximum cap on the number of retraction moves within a set length of filament defined by the minimum extrusion distance window (more on that just below).

The setting is designed to protect the filament from repeated gear pressure on the same portion of filament, which can lead to grinding problems.

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window determines the length of filament the maximum retraction count setting applies to.

Again, the core function of this setting is to avoid damaging your filament through repeated and unnecessary extruder pushing and pulling.

Limit Support Retractions

Here you can toggle whether the retraction mechanism and all the other retraction settings apply when traveling between or within support structures.

Turning it on can cause stringing between support portions of a print but can drastically reduce the overall print time. As you’ll remove stringy supports once a print finishes, the overall quality of your part isn’t affected.

Combing Mode

This setting gives you several options to signal how the printer should behave when traveling from one portion of a print to another.

Generally, this keeps the nozzle within previously printed areas. The aim is to keep retraction moves to a minimum and shorten print times. The setting ensures any stringing occurs within the limits of your print and not on the outer surface or walls at a nominal cost to travel times.

You’ll find four combing mode options:

• Off – The printer will retract for every travel move and do so in a straight line to the next point.
• All – The printer will ensure all travel moves occur within already printed areas.
• No in Skin – The printer avoids skin/surface areas when traveling.
• Within Infill – The printer keeps the nozzle within infills when traveling.

Other Slicer Settings That Can Help Prevent Stringing

Print Temperature

To understand the way hot end temperature can lead to stringing, think of what happens when you feed filament into the extruder before a print.

The printer bumps the temperature way up, which causes the filament to flow uncontrollably out of the nozzle, creating a mound of plastic spaghetti on your print bed.

This is the pressure built up in the filament path (caused by the extruder gears pushing and the hot end liquifying the plastic) releasing through the only available opening, the nozzle.

It’s vital to have the correct hot end temperature for your filament type as recommended by the manufacturer to keep this pressure in check.

Set too high, this leads to over-extrusion manifested as stringing during travel moves and blemishes when printing, or retraction moves stretching rather than pulling the filament, negating the benefit of retraction.

By dialing down the temperature, you are effectively limiting the flow of filament and, by extension, oozing.

Here are the general ranges for each filament compatible with the Ender 3.

• PLA – 190°C to 230°C
• ABS – 210°C to 250°C
• TPU – 210°C to 230°C
• PETG – 220°C to 250°C

We recommend lowering the temperature in small increments. Doing so along with dialed Ender 3 retraction should help prevent stringing issues.

Travel Speed

Though not as impactful as retraction and temperature settings, travel speed can help prevent stringing.

By increasing the travel speed, you’re ensuring the nozzle shifts from printed area to printed area faster, limiting the window for oozing.

As always, balance is essential.

Pushing the travel speed too high can open the door to a host of other problems linked to print quality and under extrusion. Start with 150 mm/s and adjust upwards as needed, but avoid exceeding 200 mm/s.

Other Ways To Stop Stringing

Buy Quality Filament

However tempting it may be to save money by buying cheap filament, we recommend spending a little more on a proven, quality brand.

Poor quality additives and a shoddy manufacturing process can exacerbate stringing. Be sure to consult our guide to the best Ender 3 filament for our top recommended brands.

Proper Filament Storage

Good quality filament is one thing, but you must also store it correctly to keep it moisture-free. When water seeps into the filament, it can accentuate the oozing that leads to stringing.

As the moisture heats up, it releases extra pressure, which, when combined with the pressure caused by the extruder gear and hot end temperature, can push unwanted filament through the nozzle during travel moves.

Replace The PTFE tubing

If you’ve dialed in the proper settings, bought quality filament, and kept it dry, but stringing persists, then the problem is likely linked to the PTFE tubing degrading.

Through repeated exposure to high temperatures at the point where it meets the hot end, the PTFE tubing’s lubrication degrades over time, which can affect the efficiency of retraction.

Replacing or cutting back the Bowden tubing is one of the easiest Ender 3 upgrades. Check out our guide to best Ender 3 upgrades for more information.

Alternatively, you can eliminate the problem by upgrading your Ender 3 to a direct drive extruder setup, which doesn’t have Bowden tubing. Check the link just above for more details.

Maintain and Clean The Nozzle

Residual build-up on the nozzle is a natural part of 3D printing, especially if you’re a heavy user.

If left unchecked, this build-up can lead to stringing because it affects extrusion and can stick to fresh filament flowing from the nozzle.

Regularly wiping the nozzle with a wire brush or removing the part entirely for a thorough clean should eliminate the problem.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other guides to learn more:

• Ender 3 Print Speed Preferences (Max for V2 & S1)
• 4 Methods to Fix PETG Stringing (Fixes 90% of Issues)
• Pillowing, Stringing, and Layer Splitting – Three of the Worst 3D Printer Issues Solved

Key Takeaways

• Ender 3 print speed settings: The article explains how to adjust the print speed settings for the Ender 3 series of 3D printers, depending on the filament type and the desired print quality. It also provides some tips and tricks to optimize the print speed and avoid common issues.
• Recommended print speeds: The article suggests the following print speeds for different filaments: PLA – 50-80 mm/s, ABS – 40-60 mm/s, TPU – 10-30 mm/s, PETG – 20-40 mm/s. These are based on a balance between speed and quality, but can be tweaked according to personal preference and printer condition.
• Maximum print speed: The article states that the maximum mechanical speed of the Ender 3 series is 200 mm/s, but the actual print speed is limited by the flow rate of the hotend. The typical flow rates are 8-12 mm³/s, which translate to 90-150 mm/s depending on the layer height and nozzle size.
• Print speed upgrades: The article mentions some possible upgrades that can improve the print speed and performance of the Ender 3 series, such as installing a Klipper open-source firmware, a new hotend, an extruder, a nozzle, or a silent mainboard. It also provides links to other online resources for more information.

There’s no perfect speed setting for the Ender 3 – it very much depends on the filament and the type of print.

But for most makers – using PLA and wanting a balance between speed and quality – I recommend 50 – 80 mm/s for your Ender 3 speed settings.

The Ender 3 can achieve a maximum print speed of around 200mm/s – but that’s only sustainable for very specific prints!

In this guide, I’ll discuss the best Ender 3 print speed settings I’ve found for all the main filaments, including:

• ABS – 40 – 60 mm/s
• TPU – 10 – 30 mm/s
• PETG – 20 – 40 mm/s

I’ll also explain the differences between the ideal settings for V2 and Pro variants of the Ender 3, too.

For clarity, we’ll focus exclusively on print speed as it appears in slicing software, measured in mm, and representing how much filament the Ender 3 can deposit for every second of printing.

Ender 3 Print Speed Settings For Different Filament Types

The factor that most impacts the Ender 3 print speed is the type of filament used.

Depending on the filament, the settings required are vastly different. We have a dedicated article that dives into the intricacies of the best Ender 3 filament for those wanting a more in-depth look. 

Below, you’ll find a brief breakdown of the best speed settings for the four most popular Ender 3 filament types – PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG.

Ender 3 PLA Print Speed

If you’re just starting your 3D printing, PLA is likely your first port of call.

The Ender 3 shines brightest when printing this plant-based filament. Models, household items, figurines, toys, printer parts/mods – these are viable applications for PLA.

For a solid balance between Ender 3 print speed and print quality, we recommend 50-80 mm/s.

For parts where finish and detail don’t rank as top priorities, feel free to crank up the speed to reduce print times.

Among the Ender 3-compatible filaments, PLA is the least fussy, so don’t hesitate to experiment with higher speeds, especially if you’re not concerned about detail and finish quality.

Here are a few additional settings to get you started:

• Extruder Temperature – 190° to 230°, adjust based on manufacturer recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – 60° should suit most PLA projects.
• Retraction Speed – 6 mm at 25 mm/s. Lowering retraction speed and raising the Ender 3 print speed can lead to stringing, so be wary of pushing these settings too far.

Ender 3 ABS Print Speed

ABS comes second to PLA as the most popular filament to use on an Ender 3.

As ABS is tough and durable (and more flexible than PLA), suitable applications cover all types of parts subject to heavy wear and tear.

Though the stock Ender 3 can print ABS out-of-the-box, an enclosure is a must-have add-on for the best results. Without one, you’ll grapple with warping and cracking issues.

Read our guide to the best Ender 3 enclosures for a few top buyable and DIY homemade recommendations.

Typically, the Ender 3 print speed can be set to around 60 mm/s for ABS, though you may have success dropping as low as 40 to 45 mm/s.

• Extruder Temperature – 220°C to 250°C. Again, refer to manufacturer recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – Around 110°, though this can vary from brand to brand.
• Retraction Speed – 6 mm at 40 mm/s. Adjust as needed to lessen stringing.

Ender 3 TPU Print Speed

Known for its rubber-like properties, TPU offers a solid option for parts subject to heavy forces and impacts, such as sporting goods, phone cases, drive belts, bumpers, and RC car tires. 

Much like ABS, printing TPU with the stock Ender 3 configuration can be quite challenging. But, with a few choice upgrades, namely an all-metal hot end and Capricorn Bowden tubing, it’s possible to pump out excellent quality prints.

Check out our guide to printing TPU on the Ender 3 for more details.

When printing TPU, slow Ender 3 print speed settings are critical. We recommend around 25-30 mm/s at most. For solid first layer adhesion, we recommend as low as 10 mm/s.

Here are a few other recommended settings:

• Extruder Temperature – Typically, 210°C to 230°C. To reduce jamming, clogging, and TPU  sticking to the nozzle, you may want to crank the temperature up a few degrees above the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Heated Bed Temperature – Unlike PLA and ABS, TPU doesn’t imperatively need a heated bed, but anywhere from 20°C up to 60°C should help the print process move along nicely.
• Retraction Speed – TPU prefers a shorter retraction distance and speed to limit the filament moving about inside the Bowden tube, which can lead to bending and clogging. Aim for 3 mm at 20 mm/s to begin, then move lower, but stop if you hit any signs of stringing.

Ender 3 PETG Print Speed

Borrowing the best properties of PLA and ABS, PETG filament is popular for being easy to print, odorless, durable, and flexible.

It’s the filament of choice for impact and temperature-resistant parts, notably those exposed to heat or the elements. PETG’s smooth finish makes it a solid alternative to PLA for decorative projects.

Though far easier to print than ABS and TPU, PETG can produce stringing issues if printed too quickly. Dial your Ender 3 speed to 40 mm/s. There’s also a marked uptick in quality at even slower speeds, such as 20 mm/s.

• Extruder Temperature – Manufacturers usually recommend 220°C to 230°C.
• Heated Bed Temperature – 65°C-70°C give or take a few degrees in each direction. It’s worth experimenting to find the best setting.
• Retraction Speed – The idea here is to reduce the potential for stringing, so we recommend 4 mm at 25 mm/s. Some Ender 3 owners report success with low retraction distances but higher retraction speeds, so feel free to experiment here to see what works best for you.

Ender 3 Print Speed Settings For Different Model/Part Types

The type of model/part also has an impact on Ender 3 print speed. In essence, determining the right speed depends on the level of detail or surface finish quality you’re aiming for.

Detailed Prints

As a general rule, very detailed models with plenty of fine detail require a slow speed.

A higher speed will churn through the print, which doesn’t give the printer enough time to carve out intricacies and small features.

For detailed prints, mainly decorative pieces such as models and figurines, we don’t recommend going any higher than 60 mm/s. Drop as low as you want, but try to find a balance to avoid prints taking days to complete.

3D printing takes long enough at the best of times, so it’s best to exercise restraint when it comes to print speeds.

Larger Prints

Conversely, a higher print speed is entirely reasonable for larger, functional parts where detail and aesthetics aren’t necessary. The same applies to parts with no details, such as large geometric shapes or functional 3D prints with little to no surface features.

Don’t hesitate to up the speed to 80 mm/s or even higher if you aren’t worried about how the print looks. Some Ender 3 owners report decent results at speeds up to 120 mm/s, though the final print invariably includes blemishes, imperfections, and signs of ghosting.

With all this in mind and, in keeping with 3D printing’s DIY roots, we highly recommend experimenting and tinkering with different Ender 3 speed settings to find that sweet spot between quality and speed.

Remember, there’s no perfect answer, and it ultimately comes down to what works best for your needs and projects.

Max Print Speed For All Ender 3 Models

So, how far can you push the Ender 3 print speed? According to official figures provided by Creality, here are the maximum print speeds for each Ender 3 model:

• Ender 3 – 200 mm/s
• Ender 3 Pro – 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 V2 – 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 Max – 100 mm/s
• Ender 3 S1 – 150 mm/s
• Ender 3 S1 Pro – 150 mm/s

It’s worth noting that these Ender 3 max speed values represent an absolute, theoretical cap on print speed, generally referring to Ender 3 travel speed rather than the speed at which filament is deposited. 

As such, we don’t recommend dialing in Ender 3 print settings anywhere close to these maximum limits. Key in a higher value and the firmware will either have a fit or push it back down to the max print speed.

It’s unlikely you’ll ever approach these speeds; if you do, the print quality and finish will suffer as a consequence. These breakneck speeds almost guarantee you’ll bump into a host of adhesion, stringing, ghosting, and layering issues.

For these reasons, the recommended Ender 3 print speed setting is much lower for most print projects at around 50-80 mm/s.

Can You Make Ender 3 Print Faster?

If you want to crank up the print speed on your Ender 3, should keep in mind that if you print too fast, the quality of the print can suffer. When you increase the print speed, you also run the risk of experiencing issues such as layer shifting, under-extrusion, and stringing.

To ensure that your prints come out as intended, it is best to gradually increase the print speed while keeping a close eye on the quality of the print. Make sure to check for any signs of the aforementioned issues as you gradually increase the speed. This way, you can find the maximum speed that your printer can handle without compromising the quality of your prints.

FAQs

If you enjoyed this article, check our other guides to improve your prints:

• The Most Effective 3D Printing Speed Settings for Each Filament
• Ender 3 Retraction Settings: Minimise Stringing for V2 & S1
• How long does it take to 3D print something?
• Best 3D Print Speed Settings for Every Filament

Key Takeaways

• Creality Firmware: Official firmware with basic features and compatibility. Easy to install on Ender 3 V2.
• Marlin Firmware: Open-source firmware with advanced features and customization. Requires code editing and Arduino Uno for older Ender 3 models.
• TH3D Unified Firmware: User-friendly firmware based on Marlin 2.0. Tested and stable with pre-configured Ender 3 profiles.
• Klipper Firmware: High-speed firmware that uses a Raspberry Pi to process G-Code. Complex to set up but offers unique features and performance.

For most hobbyists, the best Ender 3 firmware will be the standard Creality stock firmware. It covers all your basic 3D printing needs and will keep your printer running smoothly.

But if you’re looking to expand your Ender 3’s functionality with hardware upgrades – such as automatic bed leveling, thermal runaway protection, and PID tuning – you’ll need to install more specialized firmware.

Firmware like Marlin and Jyers will expand the capability of your device and are easier to install than you might think.

Those are my top two recommendations, but the right firmware for you will depend on the specific changes you’re looking to make.

I’ll explain the particular merits of each to help you make the right choice – including how easy they are to install.

If you happen to own an Ender 3 V2, you’re in luck. A simple microSD card and the requisite files are everything you’ll need to install fresh firmware.

It’s a little more “hands-on” for Ender 3/Pro, but if you follow the steps in this guide, you’ll be able to set it up without any of the beginner mistakes I made the first time around!

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Official Creality Ender 3 Firmware

If you want the most frictionless path to upgrading your Ender 3’s firmware and don’t want to tweak the code, drawing from Creality’s pool of official firmware updates is the way to go. 

Unsurprisingly, these are tuned to suit the Ender 3, meaning you won’t encounter any compatibility issues, and there’s a version for every iteration of the Ender 3. These include the older 8-bit mainboards and the newer 32-bit V4.2.2 and V4.2.7 boards found on the Ender V2.

Over on Creality’s official forum, you’ll find a wealth of firmware versions.

There is all manner available based on your printer and options for specific hardware upgrades such as BL a Touch and a filament runout sensor. You also benefit from thermal runaway protection in the latest Creality firmware, which itself is reason enough to push through an update.

To install on the Ender 3 V2, load the BIN file onto a microSD card and pop it into the mainboard’s microSD card slot.

The process is more involved for the stock Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro. You’ll need to flash a bootloader onto the printer using an Arduino Uno, then upload the new firmware to your printer’s mainboard.

Marlin 2.0

Marlin is an open-source firmware with a long history dating back to the early days of RepRap printers.

It’s used by many of the leading consumer printer manufacturers. Creality uses an altered and customized version for its official firmware.

So what sets it apart from Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware?

Adaptability, features, and self-configuration. If you need to tune the firmware to suit particular upgrades, fix bugs, and fine-tune the real-time coordination of the printer’s active parts, then Marlin 2.0 offers an extra degree of freedom.

PID heater control, linear advance, automatic bed leveling, power loss recovery – these are a taste of the advanced, sophisticated functions Marlin offers to those partial to tinkering their way to higher quality prints.

You can freely toggle features on and off to find the perfect mix for your needs.

Alternatively, there are great pre-configured Ender 3 profiles that you can upload straight to the printer. And, should you stumble, there’s strong community support ready to help you troubleshoot.

It’s compatible with both the older 8-bit Ender 3s along with the newer 32-bit variants, though the installation process differs as we saw above with the official Creality Ender 3 firmware.

TH3D Unified Firmware

TH3D Unified firmware is among the most accessible Ender 3 firmware options out there.

It makes tweaking settings easy while guaranteeing version stability through heavy testing, so you’re unlikely to meet any bugs or problems. Most of its iterations have pre-configured profiles specifically for the Ender 3, all tuned to work from the get-go.

TH3D is based on Marlin 2.0. It bundles in all the firmware’s basic benefits but throws in a few unique features such as:

• PID autotuning
• Power loss print resume
• Preheating for different filament types
• Assisted bed leveling
• Support for E3D V6 hot end upgrades
• Manual mesh leveling support

Much like the other firmware options in our guide, Ender 3 V2 owners have it easy with a simple microSD card upload to the mainboard. Ender 3 and Pro users will need to draft in an Arduino and flash the board with a bootloader before uploading the firmware file.

Klipper

A one-person-developed open-source firmware, Klipper is designed to dramatically boost the printing speed of the Ender 3.

Klipper achieves this by delegating computational duties to a single-board computer such as a Raspberry Pi. The board takes care of the G-Code processing side of things and calculates printer movements.

Doing so introduces more processing power into the mix than you’d get with the Ender 3’s mainboard alone.

With that extra outside SBC help, the Ender 3’s mainboard is left to concentrate exclusively on executing the G-Code commands, resulting in faster and quieter printing thanks to high-precision acceleration physics and machine kinematics-based stepper movements.

Aside from this unique approach, Klipper has a stacked feature set.

These include:

• Smooth pressure advance to reduce ooze
• Input shading to counter vibrations
• Custom programmable macros
• Automatic bed leveling support
• Thermal runaway protection
• Stepper phase end stop algorithm to improve first layer adhesion
• Support for filament sensors

Just to name a few…

It goes without saying that using a Raspberry Pi alongside the printer itself adds another layer of complexity.

In our estimation, Klipper is an advanced option better suited to seasoned tinkerers with experience working with SBCs and happy to configure the firmware themselves.

It’s also worth checking out Fluidd, a bespoke UI for Klipper if you decide to take the plunge.

It’s a lightweight and responsive interface to tame and shape the firmware to your needs. If you’ve never dabbled in similar projects, we highly recommend more beginner-friendly options such as TH3D Unified firmware or Creality’s official Ender 3 firmware.

Jyers

An up-and-coming firmware that’s slowly gaining traction among Ender 3 owners, the Jyers firmware is one to keep an eye on.

It’s based on Marlin 2.0 and is incredibly user-friendly.

Notable features include a revamped Ender 3 menu with manual leveling, Z offset, preheat, change filament menus, labeled error messages, M600 G-Code, PID autotune, and manual mesh leveling.

We can’t recommend it as it stands due to various major bugs hampering an otherwise excellent set of features. However, active development should see these smoothed out before long, at which point Jyers has everything to make it a superior alternative to the official Creality firmware.

If you are nevertheless tempted and don’t mind navigating the bugs, installation follows the usual Arduino Uno bootloader flash and firmware installation for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro.

Installing Jyers on the Ender 3 V2 requires no more than a formatted microSD card and the firmware files.

What You’ll Need to Update Your Ender 3 Firmware

Depending on what Ender 3 version you have, you’ll need to make sure you have all the right gear to get started.

Below, you’ll find a breakdown of everything you need if you have an Ender 3, Ender Pro, or the newer Ender 3 V2.

Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro

• Arduino Uno or other microcontroller
• Five female-to-female jumper cables
• One male-to-female jumper cable 
• USB cable
• PC
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• Latest version of Arduino IDE software
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 V2

• A clean, formatted microSD card
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)
• Single-board computer for Klipper
• Micro-USB cable for Klipper

Ender 3 S1/S1 Pro

• A clean, microSD card formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

Ender 3 V2 Neo

• A clean, microSD card with a capacity of no more than 8 GB formatted to FAT32
• Latest version of the firmware you plan to install
• PC
• Unzip program such as WinRAR (optional – only needed if the download comes as a RAR file)
• Microsoft Visual Studio Code (optional – only needed to tweak and modify the firmware’s code)

FAQ

If you enjoyed this article, check our other Ender 3 software guides to help get the most from your 3D printer:

• The Best Ender 3 3D Printing Software Overall
• Which Slicer Tool is Best for Ender 3? (Free and Premium)
• How-to: Fixing the Ender 3 “No TF Card” Message

Key Takeaways

• Why upgrade to dual extruder: Dual extruders allow you to print with multiple filaments at once, creating multicolored and reinforced prints.
• Mosaic Palette 3: A simple and expensive option that splices different filaments together without modifying your printer.
• Chimera Project: A cheap and easy DIY mod that uses a printed mount and two nozzles to switch between filaments.
• Cyclops Hot End: A similar mod that can also mix filaments together for more color variation.

Creality’s Ender 3 series is one of the most popular budget 3D printer lines on the market today. Beyond the unbeatable price, they’re easy to use, reliable, and quite powerful for their range.

But, because the Ender 3 range only comes with single extruders as standard, plenty of people (myself included) choose Ender 3 dual extrusion upgrades.

The best Ender 3 dual extruder upgrade for most people will be the Chimera Project. It’s the most straightforward DIY mod to install, offering a great balance between cost and ease of use. You can also opt for a Mosaic Palette 3 for multi-color filament splicing.

Why Upgrade?

It adds the ability to print using more than one filament type at once, allowing multi-color projects and stronger, more reliable prints which require less post-processing.

There’s also the cost difference to take into account. Adding a dual extruder to your Ender 3 is significantly cheaper than simply buying a similar printer with a dual extruder already installed.

Remember – 3D printers with dual extruders as standard are normally around $600, over three times the price of a standard Ender 3.

So, how do you go about fitting your Ender 3 dual extruder? What should you take into account before getting started? And what are the best dual extruders out there for each Ender 3 model?

We’re going to answer all of these questions here.

Ender 3 Dual Extruder Options

The open-source community for the Ender 3 is huge, and there’s no shortage of people out there with cool ideas on how to modify and upgrade Ender 3 printers with laser engravers, improved frame guards, and even advanced touchscreens.

Because of this, it’s understandable to not know off the bat exactly which one is right for you. So here we’re going to look at some of the best and most reliable Ender 3 dual extruder upgrades you can check out today.

Mosaic Palette 3 / Pro

• Price: $599-$799 — Available at Matterhackers here

While technically more of an honorable mention than an actual Ender 3 dual extruder, the Mosaic Palette 3 and Palette 3 Pro are by far the simplest option to use your Ender 3 to make multicolored prints without needing to actively modify your printer.

This is great news if you’re unconfident or otherwise unwilling when it comes to taking tools to your Ender 3, but still want to make prints using different colors and filaments.

The Mosaic Palette models act as automatic switchers, like changing the orientation of a railway line to divert specific trains or uncoupled carriages in different directions. The Mosaic Palettes act as changers that swap between up to eight different filaments per print and automatically manage each one.

The downside is the cost. At around $700, they are not cheap machines. But if you’re not very handy and have the money to spend, this is the most streamlined way to attach what could be described as a ‘multi extruder’ to your Ender 3.

Chimera Project

The Chimera Project, named after the Greek concept of an animal amalgamation rather than an ideological improbability, is the first great example of a DIY dual extruder that was designed for the Ender 4 but is still compatible with all Ender 3 models.

A standard dual extruder that’s quite cheap to produce, the Chimera Project sits on a mount that you will need to print out yourself. While that sounds like extra steps, don’t discount how cool it is to use your 3D printer to make its own modification parts.

The instructions and necessary parts are all included and linked to in very clear detail on the project’s Thingiverse page here.

Safety precautions and recommended hardware are all laid out so even the most humble of beginners will have an easy enough time getting to grips with how it all works.

Regardless of your experience with DIY, this mode you’ll need to get this Ender 3 and 4 dual extruder up and running so long as you maintain caution and follow the instructions.

Cyclops Hot End

The Cyclops Hot End is a spiritual sibling of the Chimera. The two are usable with the same printed mount, and both can alternate between different filament colors and types mid-print. The Cyclops gets its name from the fact that it looks like a single extruder but has all the capabilities of a dual extruder.

As well as standard multi-filament printing, it can also mix filaments together. While it does act like more of a ‘filament management system’ than a standard dual extruder, it still performs all the functions you’d expect.

The instructions and files, along with some hints for building and use, are all found for free here. This Cyclops seems to be a reliable and very simple way to convert your Ender 3 to have a dual extruder, unlike actual cyclopes, whose implied lack of depth perception would likely render them far less menacing than their mythology would have us believe.

Proper Printing’s Dual Extruder Ender 3 Mod

Proper Printing has developed a unique kind of dual extruder that doesn’t require a second servo. Instead, this very interesting and surprisingly clever design relies on a spring mechanism that allows the two extruders to switch use seamlessly by operating like a teeter-totter.

The extruders move in a sort of slanted V shape, with only the active extruder being parallel to the build while the other is slanted to the side while not in use. This allows extruders to be used with the same servo instead of either one spending any time-wasting space by simply waiting their turn.

This minimizes the amount of build volume lost by conserving space as well as parts in its design.

Known internally as ‘The Rocker’ and available as printable files for only $3 on their website here, it’s an absolute steal for something no Ender user should go without.

While it is said to work on any standard Ender 3 model (that is, out of the box and since unmodified) it’s unclear as to whether it will function well with other 3D printers or more modern Creality Ender models.

Though since the $3 is for the files and instructions, you’re free to experiment and tweak to see if The Rocker does work with other 3D printers provided you’re confident and techy enough to do so.

You can even modify the design yourself if it doesn’t work right away with the model you have in mind, such is the beauty of mods!

Upgrading Your Ender 3 To a Dual Extruder: Pros and Cons

Upgrading your Ender 3 with a dual extruder may seem like a no-brainer. One is more than two, and therefore better. But, like most things relating to Ender 3 upgrades printers, it’s not quite as simple as it appears.

Dual extruders come with a host of benefits, but that’s not to say there aren’t drawbacks. While not a one-way modification (meaning you can go back to a single extruder if you want), installing an Ender 3 dual extruder only to then realize it wasn’t worth the hassle will be a waste of time, money, and effort on your part.

Equipping your Ender 3 with a dual extruder comes with some negative effects that, depending on your desired uses, may not be worth the effort after all. So be sure to keep these points in mind before deciding whether or not to break out your toolbox.

Pros

• Print with more than one filament/filament type at once.
• Multicolored prints are far easier and take less time because you won’t need to constantly switch your filaments mid-print.
• You can reinforce your prints with dissolvable filaments like HIPS and PVA for better surface finishes.
• Upgrading/modifying single extruder printers is often cheaper than buying dual extruder printers.

Cons

• Dual extruders are unwieldy and difficult for beginners to handle and manage.
• Unnecessary if you’re happy enough printing in one color.
• Far more maintenance, care, and cleaning are required to keep a dual extruder clean and functioning properly.
• Lower build area volume due to the larger extruder requiring more space.

Essentially, a dual extruder requires a lot more work and maintenance to use reliably than a single extruder. If you’ve got your sights on fortified and/or multicolored prints, then upgrading your Ender 3 with a dual extruder is a fantastic idea.

On the other hand, if you’re happy with monochrome prints or are otherwise not confident you could handle the upkeep, it might be best to stay with a single extruder.

However, if you’re willing to put in the work and are still convinced you want a dual extruder on your Ender 3 despite these cons, then we’re here to help you move forward.

Before Installing a Dual Extruder on Your Ender 3

Ender 3 models are equipped with single extruders by default. However, as we’ve seen with your options for adding laser engravers, they are highly modifiable machines. This means that, with enough know-how and effort, you can upgrade your Ender 3 with a dual extruder.

Be Safe and Sure!

There is no official dual extruder extension for the Ender 3, so you’ll need to get your DIY cap on. Just remember that you’ll be dealing with mechanical parts that are designed to get extremely hot, so make sure everything is switched off and unplugged before you begin.

In addition, remember that you’re working with moving mechanical parts, and will be manipulating them in ways for which they weren’t designed, like adding an extender cable to a standard outlet. So take the greatest of care to protect yourself and your machine while you work. Always double-check your equipment and instructions before beginning so you can move forward as confidently and safely as possible.

Modifiable as the Ender 3 is, be sure you take great care in upgrading yours. Removing and replacing parts must be done with care to ensure each piece functions correctly. An improperly installed extruder will back up or fail mid-print, which increases the risk of blockages, failures, and even fires.

Be Ready to Roll Up Your Sleeves

Any third-party modification to a device will require effort and know-how beyond what you’ll find instructions for in the box. User-guided, well-explained modifications will be much more reliable than selecting any old mod at random, but all will require at least some work on your end.

These upgrades are more often than not far more complicated than buying a new part and screwing it in, so be sure to read instructions carefully and carry out tests before you really put your new mod to use. Attention to detail and cautious handiwork are musts before you’re ready to plug in and get printing.

The main difficulty in installing your own dual extruder on an Ender 3 or any 3D printer is the requirement of an extra servo. While this isn’t the case for all dual extruders (we’ll get to that later) it is certainly the case for most, and the correct installation of said servo is very important and quite finicky.

FAQs

Other articles you may be interested in:

• Ender 3 vs Ender 3 V2 vs Ender 3 Pro vs Ender 3 Max: Compared
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 3 Hot End Upgrades
• The Best Direct Drive Upgrades for Ender 3

That’s not to say the Ender 3 S1 isn’t already a great machine. On the contrary, Creality has made some excellent upgrades on the S1: namely a direct drive extruder, automatic bed leveling, and a refreshed overall design, but it can still benefit from upgrades.

Whether you own an Ender 3 S1 and fancy leveling up its printing potential, or are weighing up the merits of buying one, this guide has you covered with a dive into the best upgrades for Ender 3 S1.

Is the Ender 3 S1 a Good Choice for Upgrades?

Yes, the Ender 3 S1, like the previous Ender 3 printers, is very versatile. It keeps to the standard gantry style FDM construction we know and love, which means an open design, leaving plenty of space for upgrades. 

Like other Creality printers, it’s mostly open source, and taps into the DIY ethos that defined the early days of consumer-level 3D printing.

But, where the Ender 3 S1 differs from the original Ender 3 and even the more recent Ender 3 V2, is that it’s already well-equipped for tougher print jobs – even without any upgrades.

Creality balance out-of-the-box usability and functionality, while still allowing plenty of scope for upgrades, knowing that the community would want to make a great printer even better. 

In a sense, the Ender 3 S1 is a refinement of all the community’s upgrades for the original Ender 3, which Creality wisely caught on to and integrated.

Another aspect that makes the Ender 3 S1 so popular is the range of upgrades available. So many of the original Ender 3 upgrades are also compatible with the Ender 3 S1, meaning there’s years of upgrades out there for you to choose from. 

Whether it’s the heated bed, the print head, the filament sensor, cabling, or adding convenience-based upgrades like LED lights or a webcam, you’ll find every flavor of upgrade out there without having to dig too deep at all.

Additionally, because of what a good printer it is when it leaves the factory, the Ender 3 S1 has sold well, leading to a thriving community working hard to share and propagate upgrades to help other users improve their machine.

Best Ender 3 S1 Upgrades

Though there are hundreds of potential upgrades out there, we’ve hand-picked our selection of the best ones out there.

Fan Duct Upgrade

• Parts Required: 3D printed fan duct and a set of screws
• Cost: No more than $5.00 in filament and screws
• Manufacturer: N/A
• What It Upgrades: Improves filament cooling as it leaves the hot end

While the existing fan duct on the Ender 3 S1 is by no means shabby, the printing process can always benefit from some beefed-up cooling. 

This upgrade fastens a chunkier fan duct to the printer, channeling more air to the filament as it’s extruded to offer more streamlined airflow, improving overall quality and speeding up the bonding process for tougher, more durable prints.

As upgrades go, a new fan duct costs next to nothing because you can print the part yourself and only need to buy a few screws to attach it to the print head. 

Better yet, it’s compatible with both the Ender 3 S1 and Ender S1 Pro. Installation is fairly straightforward, latching onto the Ender 3 S1 print head assembly and doesn’t involve any modifications.

PEI Flexible Build Surface Upgrade

• Parts Required: PEI flexible build plate
• Cost: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Manufacturer: Creality
• What It Upgrades: Better high-temperature filament adhesion and easier print removal

The stock PC flexible build surface that ships with the Ender 3 S1 is adequate, but installing a PEI flexible plate can improve performance when working with more temperature-sensitive and demanding filaments. 

It also improves adhesion thanks to its rough texture, while the flexible characteristic makes removing prints effortless, with a simple flex popping off the finished print.

Creality offers its very own PEI flexible build surface over on the Creality Store, but you can get a third-party version for about half the price without much difference in quality, if you prefer. 

Though, check you’re getting the right size for your Ender 3 S1 or Pro. As upgrades go, installation is by far the easiest: simply remove the existing plate, and snap on the new PEI replacement using the bed’s magnetic surface.

Webcam Upgrade

• Parts Required: Webcam
• Cost: $50 – $300
• Manufacturer: Various
• What It Upgrades: Remote print monitoring and recording

A webcam upgrade allows you to monitor prints remotely – great if you’re worried about errors ruining a 12-hour print. 

You can also capture video, time-lapses, and stills to share on forums, YouTube, and with other maker friends. While it’s by no means a necessary upgrade, a webcam is a nice luxury to have for more serious makers who lean on programs like Octoprint to control and monitor their printing setup.

As for what webcams, there are countless options out there, with a variety of potential picks covering all resolutions, frame rate, focus-types, and so on. 

We’ve written a dedicated article about the best webcams for 3D printing for details, but for us, the Logitech C920 and Raspberry Pi camera module V1 are two of the best to pair with the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro. 

If your budget allows it, aim for 1080p and 30 FPS, along with a webcam that comes with a mount.

Bed Handle

• Parts Required: 3D-printed bed handle
• Cost: A few dollars of filament
• Manufacturer: N/A
• What It Upgrades: Easier and safer bed movement

A bed handle upgrade is about pure convenience and makes interacting with the bed much safer when it’s heated up to printing temperature. 

You can 3D print this upgrade rather than buying, and then fix it to the bottom of the bed via the existing knobs, so there’s no need for any additional hardware. Your only cost is the filament, making this a cost-effective option.

It’s by no means strictly necessary and doesn’t improve the printing performance of the Ender 3 S1 and Ender S1 Pro, but the curved design does make pulling the bed out at the end of the print to remove a model a lot more straightforward.

All-Metal Heat Break

• Parts Required: Creality All-Metal Hot End Kit
• Cost: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Manufacturer: Creality
• What It Upgrades: Print at a higher temperature

The hot end on the stock Ender 3 S1 is capable, and fares well with filaments like PLA and ABS, but is lined with a PTFE tube that can degrade over time at temperatures exceeding 250°C. 

This degradation not only affects the structural integrity of the tubing, affecting printing performance – but also releases toxic fumes.

By upgrading to an all-metal hot end, you remove these potential issues, opening the door for printing at higher temperatures, and therefore more filament options. For convenience and guaranteed compatibility with the Ender 3 S1, we recommend Creality’s All-Metal Hot End Kit.

There are some downsides here, though, namely that all-metal hot ends require more retraction tweaking as filament tends to attach to the heat break cavity if retracted too far. 

Another potential issue linked to this is clogging caused by heat creep. The filament may melt earlier than required, causing it to solidify in the heat break and clog the pathway. To counteract this, you’ll need to dial in cooling along with the right Ender 3 retraction settings.

Note: the Ender 3 S1 Pro already houses an all-metal hot end, courtesy of its Sprite Extruder Pro extruder/print head.

Improved Heated Bed Insulation

• Parts Required: Sheet of insulation
• Cost: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Manufacturer: Any brand
• What It Upgrades: Less power consumption and improve heated bed temperature stability

Again, the stock Ender 3 S1 heated bed is perfectly fine, but lacks some efficiency as it has no insulation material to maintain temperatures, requiring more power to get up to temperature and keep it toasty enough during the printing process. 

All you’ll need is a sheet of insulation (cotton is a popular option) specifically designed for heated beds, which then sticks to the bottom of the build surface. 

Most of the sheets come with an adhesive side, making installation extremely easy and straightforward. Just make sure you buy a sheet that matches the dimensions of the Ender 3 S1 – 220 x 220 mm.

Note: the Ender 3 S1 Pro already has bed insulation, so this upgrade isn’t needed.

Better Cable Management

• Parts Required: 3D-printed holder
• Cost: $2 – $5
• Manufacturer: N/A
• What It Upgrades: Keeps cables in good condition for longer

The Ender 3 S1 is a tidy printer as is, but there’s still room for improvement when it comes to cable management. 

The biggest culprit is the chunky ribbon cable that runs from the print to the printer mainboard case. 

While the rugged exterior of the cable housing does well to cut down on fraying, using a 3D-printed part to keep it out of the way of jagged parts as it moves with the printhead can help keep it in top condition for longer.

The cable for the stepper motor mounted on the frame and the X-axis endstop cable are also susceptible here, so it’s worth tidying things up. 

We’re fans of this holder on Thingiverse as it’s neat, easier to print, mounts directly to the frame, and has housings for all these cables, making it an efficient solution. It’s also cheap, costing nothing more than the filament required to print it.

LED Lights

• Parts Required: Creality Ender 3 S1 LED Light Bar Kit or LED light strips
• Cost: $10-$25
• Manufacturer: Creality and others
• What It Upgrades: Style points and better view of printer for monitoring, videos, time-lapses

An LED light upgrade can be useful if you’re working in low-light conditions or want better lighting for monitoring, video, or time-lapse recordings. 

It’s by no means necessary and doesn’t improve performance, but does add valuable style points to the overall look of your Ender 3 S1 or Ender 3 S1 Pro.

There are two main options. The first is to install Creality’s LED Light Bar Kit, designed specifically for the Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro. It’s designed to fit into the frame of the Ender 3 S1, so is easy to set up and shines light directly over the build surface.

The second option is to attach light strips vertically to the frame. These come with adhesive sides, so are very easy to install and cost no more than $10. They are typically powered by USB, allowing you to plug them directly into the printer for power.

Why Upgrade the Ender 3 S1?

Though the Ender 3 S1 is vastly improved over the original Ender 3, no printer is perfect. 

Useful upgrades for the Ender 3 S1 include improved cable management, drawer inserts, and bed handles for example, which makes using the printer that much more enjoyable.

Elsewhere, there are upgrades that improve the Ender 3 S1’s performance, such as switching to an all-metal heat break to mitigate the natural degradation of the PTFE lining of the factory heat break, especially if you’re dabbling with tougher filaments. 

Similarly, switching to a different build plate, notably a flexible PEI variant, can improve bed adhesion and make print removal much easier.

Lastly, there are functionality upgrades to turn the printer into a fully decked-out setup. We’re talking webcams for print monitoring, OctoPrint integration for remote control and monitoring, and even LED lights to jazz up the printer’s overall look and shine a light on its hard work as the print head whizzes back and forth during the printing process. 

These aren’t essential, but are increasingly popular among more serious makers who make heavy use of their Ender 3 S1.

The Prusa MINI is generally considered to be the more advanced and reliable printer, suitable for intermediate to advanced users, while the Ender 3 is a popular budget option, suitable for beginners with plenty of upgrade potential.

They’re the two most popular choices – but you may also choose to opt for the larger Ender 3 V2 or Pro if you need more build volume.

In this guide, I’ll compare all four candidates for the ultimate budget royalty head-to-head based on my hands-on experience to help you make a confident choice.

We’ll discuss the differences across all the key metrics – ease of use, print quality, value for money, and everything else you need to know

Does the diminutive Prusa MINI have enough printing pep to loosen the proven Ender 3’s firm grip on the entry-level 3D printing market? Let’s find out.

OUT-OF-THE-BOX PICK

Prusa MINI

Available at:

Prusa here

BUILD VOLUME PICK

Ender 3 V2

Available at:

Creality here Amazon here

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Meet The Contenders

Creality Ender 3

• Where to buy: Creality official store here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG
• Layer height: 100-400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 255° 
• Max bed temp: 110°
• Connectivity: USB, SD Card

The original Creality Ender 3 burst onto the 3D printing scene in 2017 and, in one fell swoop, changed the budget landscape, with an impact that still echoes today.

800,000 units shipped and counting attests to the Ender 3’s abiding popularity.

The Ender 3 offers a roomy 220 x 220 x 250 mm build volume, a heated BuildTak-like build plate, a power recovery mode, and support for PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU printing, to name the standout features.

The Ender 3 isn’t without its faults, though.

Its wobble-prone plastic Y-axis extrusion has been the subject of much debate, and manual bed leveling feels outdated in this day and age of low-cost auto-leveling probes.

Although several contenders and copycats have appeared in the intervening year and the specification sheet is no longer as eye-catching, the vanilla Ender 3 remains a benchmark for all value-packed printers out there.

A strong buy for first-timers or cash-strapped makers with bucket loads of upgrade potential.

Read more: our Creality Ender 3 review

Creality Ender 3 Pro

• Where to buy: Creality official store here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG
• Layer height: 100-400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 255° 
• Max bed temp: 110°
• Connectivity: USB, SD Card

With the Ender 3 having obtained household name status, Creality brought out the Ender 3 Pro to address some of the original’s most glaring issues.

The price tag also surged upwards to finance those enhancements, bringing the Ender 3 Pro into the sub $300 segment.

Among the most notable changes is new and improved wider Y-axis 40×40 aluminum extrusion, patching up the wobble woes of the Ender 3.

A slimmer and quieter Mean Well power supply unit, a textured removable magnetic bed, an improved MK-8 extruder, larger bed leveling nuts, and a smarter repositioning of the motherboard fan spruce up the Ender 3 Pro compared to the original.

The question here is whether these enhancements warrant the roughly extra $100 Creality levies for the Ender 3 Pro.

While the Ender 3 Pro benefits from tangible improvements that make printing easier, is it worth paying slightly more for the refreshed 2020 Ender 3 V2 or even the Prusa MINI?

Creality Ender 3 V2

• Where to buy: Creality official store here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm 
• Filament compatibility: PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG
• Layer height: 100-400 microns
• Printing accuracy: ± 0.1 mm
• Max extruder temp: 255° 
• Max bed temp: 110°
• Connectivity: USB, SD Card

Rounding up our overview of the Ender 3 family, we have the Creality Ender V2.

While not a complete overhaul of the Ender 3, the Ender 3 V2 takes the same core easy-to-use budget printing experience and injects a series of transformative upgrades that, in our estimation, make it the best Ender 3 yet.

Aesthetically and construction-wise, the Ender 3 V2 diverts from its predecessor with a sleek, sheet metal injection and plastic panel design, abandoning the cheaper look for something wholly more pleasing.

On the technical side, the Ender 3 V2 now includes a silent 32-bit motherboard, TMC2208 stepper motor drivers, and a tempered carborundum glass platform, a significant adherence upgrade over even the Ender 3 Pro’s magnetic plate that also speeds up bed heating.

Creality has also added several quality-of-life enhancements that make using the Ender 3 V2 more enjoyable long-term.

These include a new detachable 4.3-inch HD color screen, a nifty, if a little gimmicky, toolbox embedded into the printer’s base, and XY-axis tensioners to keep belts taut.

As the most sophisticated budget Creality printer yet, the Ender 3 V2 succeeds where the Pro falters in that it provides a meaningful upgrade over the original that’s well worth the extra cost.

Prusa MINI

• Where to buy: Prusa official store here
• Printing technology: FDM 
• Build volume: 180 x 180 x 180 mm
• Filament compatibility: PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, PC, CPE, PVA, PVB, HIPS, PP
• Layer height: 50-250 microns
• Max extruder temp: 280° 
• Max bed temp: 100°
• Connectivity: USB, Ethernet

The Prusa MINI represents Prusa’s first foray into the budget sector to duke it out with, predominantly, the Ender series.

The Prusa MINI borrows much of the technical know-how and lashings of the market-leading usability found in Prusa’s i3 MK3S+ crown jewel, but at less than half the cost.

As the name implies, it’s a modest, toy-sized printer, but behind a small footprint lies a sleek, uncluttered, and confident 3D printing machine capable of print quality that all but equals the full-fat i3 MK3S+.

The Prusa Mini sports an excellent heated removable magnetic PEI-coated bed.

Alongside, the MINI can tackle a generous range of materials, including PLA, ABS, PETG, ASA, PC, and HIPS. It also does away with the standard SD Card connectivity for both USB and Ethernet.

Finally, a 2.8″ full-color LCD, fully-automatic mesh bed leveling, and well-guided kit assembly round-off the baked-in usability that courses through the Prusa MINI’s entire design.

Prusa’s expertise in creating reliable and convenient 3D printers shines through with the Prusa Mini.

Whether you’re buying your first printer or looking to level up to a premium-budget machine, the Prusa MINI should serve you well.

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – At a Glance

Now that we’ve got a sense of what each printer has to offer, it’s time to hone in on what sets them apart.

But, keep in mind that use case and, ultimately, budget are the final adjudicators of whether the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2, or Prusa MINI is the right and best printer for you.

For all-out bang-for-your-buck, balanced out by the best print quality and performance under $200, the Ender 3 is the uncontested winner.

The fact it’s highly modifiable and the wide availability of upgrades means you can tweak it to a make-shift Ender Pro for much less than its successor’s respective asking price.

If you’re prepared to spend $100 to $150 more, then the waters murk with both the souped-up Ender 3 V2 and the small but mighty Prusa MINI joining the fray.

With these two head-to-head, we’re once again back to printing needs. Is a large build volume more important than overall usability and convenience? Do you need broader material compatibility above all else, and so on?

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Comparison Showdown

Build Volume

All three Ender 3 printers have a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm. Stacked against the Prusa MINI comparatively cramped 180 x 180 x 180 mm, we have a clear winner.

The Ender 3 opens up more possibilities and variety in print types and sizes.

Considered in the context of the budget, beginner-friendly segment, the Prusa MINI’s 180 x 180 x 180 mm build volume should be sufficient to cover all the most popular hobbyist prints. It’s enough for models, toys, household items like vases, and any other homemade trinket you can think of.

Indeed, if we were to push the Prusa MINI to its limit, we’d still get an 18 cm² cube of plastic. Failing that, you can still fall back on printing an object in parts.

That said, there’s no skirting around the fact that the Ender 3 trumps the Prusa MINI in build volume.

While we’d be surprised if newcomers made anything exceeding that build area, it’s still small by budget 3D printer standards. If you need plenty of build area, the Ender 3 takes the lead.

Winner: Ender 3

Print Bed

The type and quality of the build plate are where our four contenders distinguish themselves most from one another.

The Ender 3 features a fairly basic, serviceable, fixed heated BuildTak-style print bed, which more often than not benefits from some adhesive love (glue, hair spray, etc.).

The Ender 3 Pro has a flexible, textured, and removable C-MAG magnetic print bed. The Ender 3 V2 goes even further, drafting in a tempered carborundum glass platform, arguably the best 3D printing solution for adhesion and easy finished print removal.

The Prusa MINI features a removable textured magnetic PEI-coated spring steel bed.

Because of shaped edges that sit snugly between screws on the printer itself, the alignment of the plate is far superior on the Prusa MINI than even the Ender 3 V2’s glass plate.

For that reason alone, the Prusa MINI eclipses the Ender 3 at its best.

Winner: Prusa MINI

Bed Leveling

The Ender 3 bunch all feature manual bed leveling, although the Ender 3 V2’s larger and labeled leveling knobs housed under each corner of the build platform simplify the process considerably.

The Prusa MINI delegates leveling duties to clever point-based fully-automatic mesh bed calibration and sensorless homing.

Manual bed leveling is no fun, even if you’re a weathered maker. Prusa’s hands-off mesh leveling works a treat, optimizing the MINI for problem-free printing.

A clear winner here for convenience alone and a welcome feature for first-timers eager to get printing without tinkering for hours beforehand.

Winner: Prusa MINI

Ease of Use

The Ender 3, in its three iterations, comes semi-assembled, with more or less identical assembly paths in both components and the time involved to piece them into a functional printer. 

The Prusa MINI ships either as a kit or semi-assembled, the latter costing $50 more for the pleasure.

While the kit build isn’t particularly taxing or beyond the means of a curious beginner and offers a crash course in the principles and hardware of 3D printing, semi-assembled printers are just more convenient.

Something that also plays into usability is interfacing with the printer.

The Ender 3 and Pro’s LCD feels aged, especially compared to the sleek 2.8″ full-color LCD on the Prusa MINI and the entirely redesigned 4.3″ HD color screen. The MINI nudges ever so slightly ahead for offering on-screen print preview.

More granular usability features on the Ender 3 V2, such as belt tensioners, the handy toolbox, and a new rotary knob to feed filament into the extruder, make it a more enjoyable printer to use than its siblings.

Still, the Prusa MINI’s overall experience is smoother.

Winner: Prusa MINI

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Price

While price is somewhat a misleading indicator of a printer’s overall merit, we’re all bound to a budget. It’s an essential factor to keep in mind and often a deciding one, especially in the budget range.

The Ender 3 currently sells on the Creality shop for $189.00, while the Ender 3 Pro is available for a steeper $219.00. The Ender 3 V2 pushes the price to $262.00.

Jumping over to the Prusa MINI, you’ll find it priced at $349 in kit form.

The Ender 3 packs an awful lot of value into that $189.00, and the print quality is remarkable for the price.

As for the Ender 3 Pro, we don’t feel the minor improvements over the original genuinely warrant that extra $30, especially as you can splash out a further $40 and get the vastly improved Ender 3 V2.

With all its usability, convenience, and features such as auto bed leveling, the Prusa MINI justifies its price, but for us, the Ender 3 V2 comes out on top.

If $262.00 blows past your allocated budget, the Ender 3 is a solid fallback option.

Winner: Ender 3 V2

Upgrade Potential

For the fruit of hordes of engaged Ender 3 owners, there’s no end to resources, mods, and upgrades conjured up by the community surrounding the printer in all its guises.

The open design also makes it particularly mod-friendly, and Creality has a trove of accessories and upgrades for sale to simplify the process if 3D printing your own parts isn’t your cup of tea.

When it comes to the Prusa MINI, it’s not as suited to upgrades and hacking as the Ender 3 printers.

It’s not because it has a tightly controlled ecosystem or because Prusa makes it inordinately hard to tear the machine apart, but simply because it already sports all the upgrades it could ever need.

The Ender 3 is prized for baked-in ease-of-use and quick assembly that pose little in the way of obstacles to pumping out excellent quality prints for the price, rivaling printers three times the price.

Much of its popularity comes from a mod and upgrade-friendly design, something the vibrant Ender community has embraced, birthing all manner of 3D printed add-ons and hacks.

Defining a clear winner here is problematic.

The Prusa MINI has it all, but on the other hand, the Ender 3 offers plenty of scope to fine-tune and improve the printer to suit your preferences. A great option for hands-on makers or beginners looking to dive into the more technical aspects of 3D printing.

Winner: Draw

Read more: the best Ender 3 upgrades

Material Compatibility

When it comes to material compatibility, the three Ender 3 printers all exist on a level playing field and are compatible with your standard PLA, ABS, TPU, and PETG.

On the other hand, the Prusa MINI broadens the cluster of compatible filaments to include:

• PLA
• ABS
• TPU
• PETG
• ASA
• PC
• CPE
• PVA
• PVB
• HIPS
• PP

Whether you’ll use these less-popular material types determines whether the Prusa MINI’s extra material range has any value. Still, Prusa’s little wonder wins by offering more possibilities.

Winner: Prusa MINI

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2: The Winner

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Best Overall

Setting aside cost, the Prusa MINI+ is an all-around better printer than the Ender 3, even though it has a comparatively modest build volume.

You get a Prusa machine at a reasonable price, stellar usability, features usually found on pricier printers, and, arguably, more importantly, superb print quality.

OUT-OF-THE-BOX PICK

Prusa MINI

Available at:

Prusa here

BUILD VOLUME PICK

Ender 3 V2

Available at:

Creality here Amazon here

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Best Value

If we factor in price, the Prusa MINI loses some appeal. For those on a tighter budget, the Ender 3 V2 is a worthwhile alternative, a printer that fixes the faults of its predecessors while retaining all of the mod and hack potential of the series.

Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 / Pro / V2 – Best On a Budget

If you can only spend around $200, the Ender 3 fully deserves to be ranked among the best budget printers, and, years after taking the 3D printing world by the storm, still boasts remarkable value for money.

It’s a great starter printer we happily recommend to anyone looking to tackle that initial learning curve in style.

We’d recommend avoiding the Ender 3 Pro entirely. The targeted improvements are an advantage, but you could install these yourself on a vanilla Ender 3 for less money.

Articles we recommend:

• The best Prusa alternatives
• Differences Between Prusa Mini+ and Prusa i3 MK3S+
• Prusa i3 MK3S+ vs Ender 3 V2 / Pro / S1
• Prusa enclosure guide (DIY and buyable options
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 3 competitors and alternatives
• Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro, V2 and Max
• Ender 5 vs Ender 5 Pro vs Ender 5 Plus
• Sovol SV06 vs Ender 3 (V2 / Neo)
• Anycubic Mono X vs Elegoo Saturn
• Flashforge Adventurer 3 vs Ender 3
• Anycubic Kobra vs Kobra Plus and Max

After all, both printers are known for being entry level, extremely budget friendly, and reliable.

But is the Aquila X2 actually different from the Ender 3 V2 in any meaningful way?

Overall, both printers are great for beginners and hobbyists, but the Voxelab Aquila X2 is best for those on a tight budget, while the Ender 3 V2 is better for those who want access to a strong community and additional quality-of-life features.

In this guide, I’ll compare these entry-level 3D printers across all the key factors- upgradeability, filament compatibility, and plenty more – so you can make the right choice for you and your projects

Is the Aquila X2 a knockoff version of Creality’s superstar – or is it a real contender among low-cost 3D printers? Let’s find out.

Budget Pick	Top Pick
Voxelab Aquila X2	Creality Ender 3 V2
Primary Rating: 4.5	Primary Rating: 4.7
Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm	Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
Max Print Speed: Up to 180 mm/s	Max Print Speed: Up to 200 mm/s
Filament runout sensor: Yes	Filament runout sensor: Optional Add-on
Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU	Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU
N/A	$279.99
Amazon here	Creality Store here
	Amazon here

Budget Pick

Voxelab Aquila X2

Primary Rating:

4.5

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Max Print Speed:

Up to 180 mm/s

Filament runout sensor:

Yes

Filament Compatibility:

PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU

N/A

Amazon here

Top Pick

Creality Ender 3 V2

Primary Rating:

4.7

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Max Print Speed:

Up to 200 mm/s

Filament runout sensor:

Optional Add-on

Filament Compatibility:

PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU

$279.99

Creality Store here

Amazon here

Voxelab Aquila X2 vs Ender 3 V2: A Quick Summary

Voxelab Aquila X2

The Voxelab Aquila X2 is best known as yet another copycat of the Ender 3 V2, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Voxelab priced the Aquila X2 at $179.99 to undercut the Ender 3. At a price point that’s nearly $80 less than Creality’s budget king, the Aquila made itself a strong contender in the market.

Like other Ender 3 clones, the Aquila X2 has similar specs and capabilities to the Ender 3 V2. It has the same build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm, the same layer resolution of 100 – 400 microns and similar printing accuracies.

The Aquila also comfortably works with the same filaments that other budget FDM printers do: PLA, ABS, and PETG. Although it technically can print with TPU, it’s likely you’ll need to upgrade the extrusion head, if nothing else.

Aside from the price, what sets the Aquila X2 apart from the Ender 3 V2 is the filament runout sensor. This can be a great help for longer prints and for newer hobbyists, and it’s also the biggest upgrade from the original Aquila.

The Aquila X2 comes equipped with a carrying handle attached to the top as a quality of life feature. Other features, like a rotary encoder-controlled color screen, quiet printing, and an easy method to tighten the belts, are shared by the Aquila X2 and Ender 3 V2.

Voxelab Aquila X2

Open source FDM 3D printer with the following features: Filament Detection, Resume Printing, Removable Build Surface Plateform, 32-bit Silent Mainboard, Auto Filaments Feed/Return

Amazon here

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Ender 3 V2

Creality’s Ender 3 V2 is the reigning champion of budget FDM printers. It’s easy to see why, as the original Ender 3 was a price leader with solid features when it was first released – it’s still one of the world’s best-selling 3D printers.

The Ender 3 V2 costs around $259. It’s not the absolute cheapest on the market, but you’re paying for a product with a strong community and well-known company backing it.

That community is actually one of the main selling points of the Ender at this point. It has a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm, which the Ender 3 popularized as the standard for its many budget copies. That’s not bad by any means, but it doesn’t set it apart from the competition.

It’s the same story for the Ender 3 V2’s other features. The rotary controlled color screen, 100 – 400 microns layer resolution, and even the filament compatibility aren’t special compared to other budget options. The filaments are identical to the Aquila X2’s: PLa, PETG, ABS, and TPU.

That being said, the Ender 3 V2’s community really does put it ahead of the game. Just like the Aquila X2, the Ender 3 is only able to properly make use of TPU with some upgrades and fine tuning. It’s much easier to make that happen when there are hundreds of people who have done it before you.

Creality made a couple key improvements on the original Ender 3 that make the V2 really stand out. Firstly, the V2 has quiet printing thanks to a superior motherboard. This is pretty meaningful, since budget printers often need upgrades tacked on in order to run quietly.

The V2 has a belt adjuster, so there’s no need to pull out any tools. But if you did need to, it also has a handy toolbox to store them in. Overall, these quality of life improvements keep the Ender 3 V2 competitive with other budget options.

Top budget 3D printer

Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer

Upgraded version of the original Ender 3 with a number of key improvements.

This easy to assemble DIY kit creates a 220 x 220 x 250mm build volume for printing epic creations. Experience ultra-quiet operation and stable, precise printing with the upgraded motherboard and extruder.

And, get great first layers with the heated carborundum glass print surface.

Creality Store here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Comparison Showdown

Build Volume

The Aquila X2 and the Ender 3 V2 have the same build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm. You’re not likely to get anything bigger unless you’re willing to pay a higher price, since this is the unspoken standard for printers in that price range.

That means large prints and printing en masse are going to be strictly off limits regardless of which printer you use. Still, it’s definitely easier to extend the print bed with the Ender 3 V2 because there are Ender Extender products designed specifically for that purpose.

With the Aquila X2, you would have to attempt to co-opt an Ender Extender to get the same results. You’d be taking the risk of blowing your money on a product that ultimately might not work, which is a hard sell if you’re looking for an entry-level printer.

Print Speed

• Voxelab Aquila X2 – Up to 180 mm/s
• Ender 3 V2 – Up to 200 mm/s

The Ender 3 V2 has a slightly higher maximum print speed, at 200 mm/s compared to the Aquila X2’s 180 mm/s. On a practical level, though, neither of these max speeds will ever be used because of the printing errors they would cause.

Even if we ignore that and compare max print speeds anyway, the Ender 3 only has a lead of 20 mm/s. It’s not meaningful enough to make a difference in your experience with the printer. 

Filament Runout Sensor

The standout feature of Voxelab’s Aquila X2 is that it has a filament runout sensor and auto feeding capabilities. Despite the Ender 3 V2’s reputation as a great entry-level printer, it lacks that ability.

It might not be an absolute must-have, but that doesn’t mean it’s irrelevant. A filament sensor for the Ender 3 would cost between $7 – $15. You also have to consider the time it takes to install– and potentially troubleshoot– a filament sensor if you wanted to add one.

Official Creality Ender 3 V2 Filament Runout Sensor

$14.99

The normal filament feed indicator is a blue LED light that turns off when the sensor detects filament runout. This product is compatible with Ender 3, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 MAX, Ender 5 Plus, CR-10S PRO, CR-10 V2, and CR-10 V3.

Amazon here

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11/16/2025 07:00 am GMT

An alternative is to go ahead and purchase the Ender 3 V2 Neo. Just like the Aquila, it’s equipped with a filament sensor. The downside is that it’ll be much more expensive than the extra $15 it takes to upgrade the Ender 3 V2. 

Incredible Value for Money

Ender 3 V2 Neo

An easy-to-use enclosed 3D printer with auto-leveling and removable steel print surface.

With pristine 0.1 mm resolution, you won't find a more precise 3D printer for this price anywhere.

Easy setup, operation and print removal make this an ideal pick for beginners.

Creality Store here Amazon here

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Ultimately, the lack of a runout sensor isn’t going to be a deal breaker in most cases. It’s just a convenient feature that makes the Aquila X2 slightly more efficient and beginner friendly.

Bed Leveling

The Ender 3 V2 and the Aquila X2 have standard manual bed leveling. It’s good to get familiar with the process, but it’s also an extra step that you might not want to deal with if this is your first printer. Introducing more variables when you’re already using a budget printer can make things much more difficult than they should be.

For a higher price, the Ender 3 V2 Neo has automatic bed leveling that Creality has dubbed CR Touch. It works through touch probes, just like antclab’s BLTouch. 

Read more: the best low-cost 3D printers with auto-leveling

Upgradeability

When you purchase a cheap, entry-level 3D printer, you’re usually accepting that upgrades will be a necessity. The Aquila X2 and Ender 3 V2 are no exceptions. With either printer, you’ll probably want to upgrade basics like the fans, the extruder, and the bed mounts.

The noise level of these printers hovers around 50dB. Upgrading their fans (including the part cooling, hot end, PSU, and control board fans) is the best option for quieter printing.

Getting a better extruder and replacing the default bed springs with silicone mounts will also benefit both printers equally, and it’s relatively easy to find parts for either of them. Since the Aquila is nearly identical, most things that will work with the Ender 3 will also work for the Aquila.

Of course, these upgrades aren’t free. As the more expensive printer, every additional upgrade makes the Aquila X2 look more appealing and the Ender 3 V2 seem less worthwhile. 

Read more: all the best Ender 3 upgrades (both DIY and buyable options)

Filament Compatibility

You’ll be working with the same basic set of filaments, whether you have the Aquila X2 or the Ender 3 V2. They’re compatible with PLA, PETG, and ABS. It’s common for hobbyists to upgrade the Ender 3’s extruder for the sake of using TPU, and in fact, it’s actually advertised as being able to use TPU.

Regardless, flexible filaments like TPU can be finicky. The Ender 3 isn’t the ideal option if you want a wide range of filaments to use, and neither is the Aquila. This is another area where the two printers are at a near-standstill. 

Any upgrades that can be done to the Ender 3’s extruder can also be done to the Aquila’s, and the end result is two printers that can use essentially the same pool of filaments.

If you opt for the Ender 3 V2 Neo, you’ll have a clear advantage over the Ender 3 V2 and the Aquila X2: a fully metal Bowden extruder. It will give you a better time with handling filaments and be more durable, to boot. 

Read more: the best filaments for the Ender 3

Assembly

Creality chose to leave the Ender 3 V2’s complete assembly in the hands of whoever buys it for the sake of a lower price. The Aquila X2 follows in Creality’s footsteps, leading the two printers to have very similar assembly times.

It commonly takes between 30-45 minutes to set up the Ender 3 V2 or the Aquila X2. There are detailed guides for building either printer, so they’re both fine choices for beginners from this perspective.

Price

With few other features or specs to differentiate the two, price is the biggest factor between the Ender 3 and the Aquila X2.

The Ender does get marked down for sales regularly, but it usually won’t dip beneath $199. The Aquila X2 blows the Ender 3’s regular and sales prices out of the water with a price of $179.99.

The Ender 3 V2 Neo is, of course, even more expensive at $298. In perspective, this is still a relatively cheap printer. It just can’t compare to the Aquila X2’s price.

Community

Many hobbyists flock to the Ender 3 purely because of how established it is. As far as 3D printers go, the Ender 3 is a household name– and with that comes a flourishing community. 

The benefit of having dozens of large and growing forums is that troubleshooting becomes much easier. Chances are, any issue you have with the Ender 3 V2 is an issue someone else already has experienced and posted about somewhere on the Internet. If you’re new to the world of 3D printing, the community alone can make the difference between success and a 3D printer that never gets used. 

But although the Ender 3 V2 technically wins out when it comes to community support, the Aquila X2 isn’t a total loser. The build of the Aquila is so similar to that of the Ender 3 that many resources can be used interchangeably between the two.

Budget Pick	Top Pick
Voxelab Aquila X2	Creality Ender 3 V2
Primary Rating: 4.5	Primary Rating: 4.7
Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm	Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
Max Print Speed: Up to 180 mm/s	Max Print Speed: Up to 200 mm/s
Filament runout sensor: Yes	Filament runout sensor: Optional Add-on
Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU	Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU
N/A	$279.99
Amazon here	Creality Store here
	Amazon here

Budget Pick

Voxelab Aquila X2

Primary Rating:

4.5

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Max Print Speed:

Up to 180 mm/s

Filament runout sensor:

Yes

Filament Compatibility:

PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU

N/A

Amazon here

Top Pick

Creality Ender 3 V2

Primary Rating:

4.7

Build Volume:

220 x 220 x 250 mm

Max Print Speed:

Up to 200 mm/s

Filament runout sensor:

Optional Add-on

Filament Compatibility:

PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU

$279.99

Creality Store here

Amazon here

Voxelab Aquila X2 vs Ender 3 V2 – The Bottom Line

The Ender 3 V2 has paved the way for future budget printers, and the Aquila X2 is exactly the printer to take its place. There is only one feature that really differentiates the two printers, and that’s the Aquila’s filament sensor.

Aside from that, Voxelab and Creality have made near-identical printers in everything but price. They have the same (or nearly the same) specs, need the same upgrades, and work with the same filaments.

The Ender 3 V2’s main appeal is being an entry-level, budget 3D printer. If the Aquila can do everything the Ender can at a lower cost– and it can– then why not buy the Aquila instead?

The only possible caveat is if the Ender 3’s community is worth the extra cash. But even then, there’s nothing stopping you from using resources for the Ender 3 and applying them to the Aquila X2.

Related articles:

• Comparing The Elegoo Neptune 2/3 vs Ender 3
• A Highly Improved Classic: Ender-3 V2 Neo Review
• Creality Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro vs Ender 3 V2
• Selected Ender 3 Series 3D Printers Compared: Ender 3 Neo, V2 Neo & Max Neo
• Best Ender 3 Print Speed Settings for Ender 3 V2 & Pro
• Sovol SV06 vs Ender 3 (V2 / Neo)

For most users, I’d recommend taking a look at the Biqu B1 first. It has more built-in features compared to the Ender 3, with automatic bed leveling and a touchscreen display making it a more intuitive experience for beginners.

Elsewhere, you might also consider the superior print speed of the Prusa Mini, or the affordable Voxelab Aquila for a budget choice.

Budget Pick	Top pick
Voxelab Aquila	Anycubic Kobra 3D Printer
3DSourced Rating:	3DSourced Rating:
Primary Rating: 4.5	Primary Rating: 4.7
N/A	$299
Amazon here	Anycubic Store here
	Amazon here

Budget Pick

Voxelab Aquila

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.5

N/A

Amazon here

Top pick

Anycubic Kobra 3D Printer

3DSourced Rating:

Primary Rating:

4.7

$299

Anycubic Store here

Amazon here

I’ll step through all the worthy Ender 3 alternatives I’ve tested, showcasing the best ones currently available at a range of price points and their different features.

Whether you’re looking for a different-flavored Ender 3/Pro/V2-style printer, or an alternative to the latest decked-out Ender 3 S1 Pro, there’s something for everyone here.

1. Biqu B1

• Price: Check latest price at Amazon here
• Build Volume: 235 x 235 x 270 mm
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, Flexibles

Echoing a running theme among the best Ender 3 alternatives, the Biqu B1 quite simply offers more features than you’d get from Creality’s stable of Ender 3s for the same sum, its most direct competitor in terms of price being the Ender 3 V2.

Among them are a roomier 235 x 235 x 270 mm (outclassing even the Ender 3 S1 in that respect), adjustable belt tensioners, a double-sided magnetic ‘Super Steel Sheet’ bed, a filament sensor, and a resume print function. 

The neat, unique dual-mode interface is also worth a mention.

It allows you to hot-swap between Biqu’s sleek, modern touchscreen-controlled interface with a handy model-preview function (unusual for low-cost printers) to a rotary knob-led Marlin UI.

We are also big fans of the upgrade and tinker potential afforded by vacant ports on the SKR board and how accessing the Biqu B1’s innards takes hardly any effort, not something we can say about the Ender 3s without lashings of sarcasm.

Weaving in automatic bed leveling, Wi-Fi connectivity, or a supplementary Z-axis motor should be a doddle.

For us, the Biqu B1 is somewhat of a hidden gem that hasn’t garnered the attention it deserves quite yet. It more than gives the Ender 3 V2 a run for its money and, rather fittingly, costs less.

The Biqu B1 also comes with glitzy RGB LED lighting on the print head, and the printer is available in a color scheme with rather fetching hot pink accents.

Due to the fact it houses a Bowden rather than a direct drive extruder and lacks automatic bed leveling, it doesn’t rival the Ender 3 S1. Creality’s flashiest Ender 3 costs substantially more in any case, so, not a fair comparison.

2. Prusa Mini

• Price: Check latest price at Prusa here
• Build Volume: 180 x 180 x 180 mm
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, PC, CPE, PVA/BVOH, PVB, HIPS, PP, Flex, nGen, Nylon, Woodfill

Almost adorable with its compact base and signature Prusa orange accents, the Prusa Mini is first and foremost a more wallet-friendly alternative to Prusa’s endlessly-lauded i3 MK3S+ and, by extension, a disruptor in the Ender 3-dominated budget space.

In keeping with Prusa’s history of slapping quality parts on ‘complete’ printers that need little in the way of user-led upgrades, the Prusa Mini is a stellar alternative to the Ender 3 in all the guises.

It’s an option for those that don’t fancy diving into the bowels of their printer on the regular to tinker or upgrade. It’s one for people that want a systematically reliable and solid printing experience every time they fire up their machine.

It just works with no fuss or frustration.

On to features, the Prusa Mini has all the trimmings you’d expect from the folks behind the i3 MK3S+:

• Automatic mesh bed leveling
• Ethernet connectivity
• Sharp color LCD screen with model preview
• SuperPinda homing probe
• PEI-coated magnetic removable bed

When combined, these features see the Prusa Mini storm past the classic Ender 3 trio to compete directly with the Ender 3 S1. Better yet, Prusa asks you to pay $50 less than the S1 to become a happy Mini owner and print with a broader range of compatible filament types.

There is one major compromise: the Prusa Mini’s modest 180 x 180 x 180 mm build volume to the Ender 3 S1’s comparatively spacious 220 x 220 x 270 mm.

Beyond that, there’s little to fault here. The Prusa’s signature quality courses through every layer you’ll print with the Mini.

Read more: our Prusa MINI vs Creality Ender 3 comparison

3. Voxelab Aquila

• Price: Check latest price at Voxelab here
• Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG

With a price roughly on par with the Ender 3, the Voxelab Aquila is a solid all-around 3D printer designed by 3D printing royalty Flashforge, albeit under the Voxelab budget branding.

It’s another offspring of the Ender 3’s still-rippling impact on the budget 3D printer segment in both shape and design but throws in features you won’t find on Creality’s stock machines.

Leading the charge is a textured carborundum glass bed (similar to the one on the Ender 3 V2), a 32-bit mainboard, a color LCD, a resume print function, XY belt tensioners, and a filament run-out sensor.

Much like the Ender 3, the Aquila offers a solid foundation for upgrades and mods but works well as is. The option is there, though, to spruce it up with automatic bed leveling, for example.

Another way the Aquila diverts from the Ender 3 playbook is simplicity.

It’s easy to use from the get-go, bolstered by a well-designed UI design and the bundled VoxelMaker slicer, a reskin of FlashPrint.

The latter is straightforward and uncomplicated, with just enough functionality not to overwhelm beginners but enough options to hone good quality prints.

While the original Ender 3 once straddled the crossroads between capabilities and price, the Voxelab Aquila certainly makes a strong claim as a direct successor.

We can’t stress how much value you get for under $200, especially as the Voxelab Aquila is more or less equivalent to the more expensive Ender 3 V2 in features and printing experience.

4. Anycubic Kobra

• Price: Check latest price at Anycubic here
• Build Volume: 222 x 222 x 252 mm
• Filament Compatibility: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU

The Anycubic Kobra is the budget entry in Anycubic’s latest new model release flurry.

It’s capable of superb prints for the price and pulls in a blend of convenience-focused features we expect to become a benchmark for competitors moving forward.

We were kindly sent a review model by Anycubic, and despite a bit of wrestling with the software side of things, we were thoroughly impressed with the Kobra.

With a bit of tuning, the quality of the prints is simply outstanding for a low-cost FDM printer.

Getting from packaged parts to a machine ready to print was effortless and, frankly, pleasant. Two months on, we’re still finding new things to like and enjoy about this plucky little printer that punches well above its weight.

At just under $300, The Anycubic Kobra costs more than the base Ender 3, which you’ll likely find for under $200.

However, that extra $100 spent bundles the type of top-shelf features you’d expect on machines with a significantly higher price tag. Sized up against the Ender 3 V2, the Kobra costs roughly the same, has better features, and offers a more rounded experience for the money.

The direct-drive extruder, automatic bed leveling, and a fantastic removable magnetic PEI-coated spring-steel bed allow the Kobra to deliver fuss-free, reliable, user-friendly printing.

You also get a slightly larger 222 x 222 x 252 mm build volume than the original Ender 3 trio. There’s no denying you’re landing far more value than you’d typically expect from a low-cost 3D printer.

As for the Ender 3 S1, the Anycubic Kobra shares many features, but with $100 shaved off the price tag.

You don’t get quite as much vertical build volume to work with, though, a minor trade-off for one of the most appealingly affordable Ender 3 alternatives.

Although it’s still early days, the Kobra has the makings of a DIY darling as it’s begging for community-fashioned mods, tweaks, and upgrades, just like the Ender 3.

Expect a flood of these as shipments start hitting doorsteps in the months ahead.

Why You’d Want To Consider An Alternative to the Ender 3

Despite a firm grip on the most popular 3D printer crown, the Ender 3 is getting a little long in the tooth.

Omitted features that were once minor irritants easily remedied through DIY upgrades have morphed into major downsides.

Creality addressed these to some extent in successor models such as the Ender Pro and Ender 3 V2 with a tempered carborundum glass bed, silent mainboard, and a chunkier Y-axis extrusion but some gaping downsides remain.

The market is now awash with better or similarly equipped alternatives offering a near-identical printing experience at a similar price point, meaning it’s harder to frame the Ender 3 as the go-to budget pick it once was.

These alternatives unabashedly draw inspiration from the Ender 3 but improve or match it in ways that make them better or are at least comparable all-around machines.

It’s harder to make a case for why you should consider an alternative to the latest Ender 3 S1.

The printer is Creality’s most sophisticated Ender 3 yet, boasting a glut of desirable improvements, chiefly automatic bed leveling, a direct drive extruder, a roomier 220 x 220 x 270 mm build volume, and a PC-coated spring steel removable print bed.

An impressive machine, no doubt, and a premier pick in the affordable portion of the 3D printer market.

Nevertheless, the alternatives are worth a gander if you just want something different from the Ender family or need a cheaper machine mostly matching the Ender 3 S1’s feature set.

Articles we recommend:

• Prusa alternatives
• Ender 3 vs Prusa Mini
• Ender 3 V2 / S1 vs Prusa i3 MK3S+
• Ender 3 vs Ender 5
• Ender 3 vs Ender 3 Pro, V2 and Max
• Ender 5 vs Ender 5 Pro vs Ender 5 Plus
• Anycubic Mono X vs Elegoo Saturn

Key Takeaways

• Glass Bed Benefits: A glass bed improves print quality, heat distribution, print removal, cleaning, and longevity compared to other bed types.
• Official Creality Tempered Glass Bed: A durable and smooth glass bed with a nano-molecular coating for excellent adhesion and easy removal. Fits the Ender 3 perfectly.
• Dcreate Borosilicate Glass Bed: A cheap and easy DIY option that uses borosilicate glass for better resistance and thermal expansion properties. Requires adhesive and clips.
• Sovol Borosilicate Glass Bed: Another budget-friendly borosilicate glass bed that offers even heat distribution and low warping. Also needs adhesive and clips.

For all its affordable DIY appeal, the Ender 3 is far from perfect, not least the lackluster print bed.

It’s one of the more upgrade-friendly budget 3D printers out there, though, so tinkering it’s sticking points out of the equation is relatively easy.

Upgrading to an Ender 3 glass bed for 3D printing lets you benefit from consistent bed leveling, a smooth first layer, even heat distribution, easy print removal, and easier cleaning.

For most users, I’d recommend the Official Creality Tempered Ender 3 Glass Bed. As an in-house pick, it fits the Ender 3 perfectly, with easy print removal and impressive first layer adhesion.

Although it is priced slightly higher than some of the other options, the overall quality makes it a worthwhile investment for most users.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through all the Ender 3 glass bed upgrades I’ve tested, and compare them across key metrics like price, print quality, and ease of use.

I’ll share my top tips and tricks for choosing the glass bed that’s right for your projects – so you can make your choice with confidence!

This article focuses on Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro owners therefore who want to upgrade to a glass bed.

Read more: our Creality Ender 3 vs Pro vs V2 compared

Best Ender 3 Glass Beds

Official Creality Tempered Ender 3 Glass Bed

• Price: $18.00-$20.00
• Where To Buy: Amazon, Creality Store

Manufactured and recommended by Creality, the official Creality tempered Ender 3 glass bed fits perfectly atop the Ender 3’s build plate.

As such, you won’t have to worry about the glass bed being too small or too large. You’ll need four clips to secure the bed. Creality doesn’t provide these on its official store, but there are kits available through Amazon that bundle them alongside the bed.

It can withstand temperatures up to 400°C and has a hardness of 8 Mohs, guaranteeing durability that outclasses acrylic, plastic, and metal beds.

It also features a nano-molecular coating for better adhesion.

Creality guarantees a flat and true surface with 4 mm thickness that delivers a sleek and smooth base. Official documentation notes that adhesive isn’t required for most prints, given how well the bed nails first-layer adhesion.

The official Creality tempered Ender 3 glass bed is wear and scratch-resistant while also offering easy print removal once the bed has cooled to room temperature.

As for cleaning, Creality says the glass bed is easy to clean with a soft cloth and isopropyl alcohol.

Dcreate Borosilicate Glass Bed

• Price: $13.00-$15.00
• Where To Buy: Amazon

The Dcreate borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed measures 235 x 235 mm, or the exact size of the Ender 3 build plate. It features smooth, rounded edges to ward off injuries when handling the glass bed.

In our experience, borosilicate performs better than tempered glass when it comes to resistance, adding longevity to its advantages.

Dcreate manufactures the glass bed with a true, flat, and smooth finish, with a 3.8 mm thickness, which should see it heat up slightly faster than chunkier alternatives. It can withstand temperatures up to 520°C.

The Dcreate borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed mounts to the Ender 3’s build plate via a set of binder clips provided alongside the glass bed.

Dcreate recommends using an adhesive like glue or hairspray for the best results and only using water to wipe clean the surface. However, using the classic isopropyl alcohol method is an option, too.

Sovol Borosilicate Ender 3 Glass Bed

• Price: $10.00-$13.00
• Where To Buy: Amazon

Another borosilicate option, the Sovol borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed, costs less than our other recommendations, which is ideal if you want a thrifty way to test drive a glass bed.

Its dimensions – 235 x 235 mm – line up perfectly with the Ender 3’s existing stock magnetic plate for easy alignment and installation using the clip method.

Thickness tallies up to 3.8 mm for reasonably fast heating and a strong, stiff surface that won’t warp or deform under high temperatures.

Thanks to the borosilicate glass, the Sovol Ender glass bed has excellent thermal expansion properties along with heat and temperature shock resistance.

Some form of adhesive is recommended, which you can easily wipe clean with alcohol, according to the manufacturer Sovol.

Wisamic Borosilicate Glass Bed

• Price: $20.00
• Where To Buy: Amazon

One of the pricier third-party options, the Wisamic borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed is cut to align snuggly with the Ender 3’s build plate.

It measures a matching 235 x 235 mm and has a 4 mm thickness. You’ll want to double-check the specifications before buying, as Wisamic sells several other configurations with different dimensions that won’t work with the Ender 3.

It’s made of 100% borosilicate glass to support higher temperatures and fluctuations than traditional build plates.

Its low thermal expansion properties also ensure it doesn’t warp, staying flat even after prolonged use at high temperatures. The borosilicate glass also provides solid binding properties when heated but allows for effortless print removal when cooled down.

You’ll need to source your own clips to fit the Wisamic borosilicate Ender 3 glass bed, as these aren’t included with the bed.

We recommend at least 21 mm clips or higher for the best fit.

Advantages of Using a Glass Bed on Your Ender 3

Flat – Due to being less sensitive to thermal expansion and the manufacturing process involved in producing it, glass remains flat and true even at high temperatures. Uniform flatness ensures consistent bed leveling, which means fewer failed prints.

Smooth First Layer – Unlike rough texture build plates, which generally cake the underside of prints with uneven grooves and bumps, glass is smooth and produces a clean, smooth base.

Heat Distribution – Although glass doesn’t match the conductivity of metal build plates, it provides more even heat distribution across its surface. Uniform heat distribution reduces warping caused by hot spot areas.

Print Removal – Glass beds make easy work of removing easy prints, requiring far less force, often without the need for a scraper, to snap off cleanly than other bed types.

Cleaning – Due to their smooth, flat surface, glass beds are a doddle to clean compared to rough beds where grime, filament, and adhesive embed into the grainy texture. You can safely plunge it into a sink filled with water and wipe it clean with soap with no risk of damage.

Longevity and Cost-Saving – Glass beds have a longer lifespan than other bed material types. Although you’ll likely pay more for a glass bed, you won’t need to replace it as frequently, saving costs in the long run.

Read more: the best Creality Ender 3 Dual Extruders

Ender 3 Glass Bed Tips and Tricks

Cleaning – Finger grease, filament residue, adhesive leftovers, dust – these stray accumulations, often imperceptible to the naked eye, can wreak havoc on first-layer adhesion and the overall success of your prints. 

Regular and thorough cleaning is, therefore, a must. A freshly-laundered piece of cloth allied to a squirt of isopropyl alcohol works best, although there’s no harm in bolstering this with the occasional dunk into a tub of soapy water for a deep clean.

​​Align and Secure the Glass Bed – Make sure the glass bed sits flush and is secured tightly to the build plate before bed leveling.

Binder clips are a popular option, with no more than four needed to keep the glass bed in place (slide the build plate backward and forward to ensure the clips don’t knock any part of the printer).

Be sure to set the printable area in your slicing software according to the positioning of the clips.

Bed Leveling – Tedious and time-consuming, correctly leveling the Ender 3, Pro, and V2’s bed before firing off a print is the most important step you can take to make the most of your factory-fresh glass bed.

Make sure your Z offset compensates for the added thickness of the glass; too close, and it will scratch up the glossy surface. Don’t hesitate to do multiple leveling runs for the best results.

If you have an Ender 3 S1, you’re in luck. The printer’s automatic bed leveling takes care of calibrating the bed for you.

Bed Temperature – If filament cools too quickly, it won’t adhere to the glass bed. Check your filament manufacturer’s recommended heated bed temperature.

Take that figure, add a few degrees, and dial the temperature into your slicing software. If you still encounter adhesion issues, raise the temperature in small increments until you hone in on the best settings.

By extension, ensure the bed reaches the proper temperature before printing.

Brims and Rafts – Although not necessary for all prints, brims and rafts are excellent solutions for more temperamental prints where first-layer adhesion causes all manner of headaches.

They involve more post-printing clean-up, longer print times, and use more filament, but they do wonders to improve first-layer adhesion by boosting the surface of contact between the filament and bed.

A brim is a series of small layers running around the perimeter of a part or model to boost the size and adhesion of the first layer. On the other hand, a raft is printed below the print itself and formed of a flat, thick lattice of filament.

In other words, a foundation atop which the print sits.

Adhesive – Glue, hairspray, dual-sided painter’s tape – these are all viable and popular options to increase first-layer adhesion, especially when printing with heat-sensitive filament like ABS.

These adhesives fare best for small, intricate prints with a limited contact surface or those with tight corners as they reduce warping, curling, and the print detaching from the bed.

Things to Consider Before Upgrading Your Glass Bed

Match Build Plate Size – When browsing for a glass bed, be sure its dimensions match those of the Ender 3’s 235 x 235 mm build plate.

Doing so ensures a snug fit, removing the need to cut and shave down the bed yourself or key in software settings to cater to a smaller glass bed than the stock Ender 3 magnetic bed.

No Too Thin, Not Too Thick – The thickness of the glass bed is a crucial feature to keep in mind, or run the risk of cracking the glass or, on the flip side, having to wait inordinately long periods for the bed to reach print-ready temperatures.

As a rule of thumb, 3-4 mm thickness represents a good middle ground between the two, a standard of sorts you’ll find on most third-party options.

Thermal Shock – A glass bed is subject to reasonably dramatic temperature fluctuations, so consider a bed’s thermal shock resistance.

A quality glass bed can confidently jump between temperatures without cracking or shattering up to as high as 400°C. Borosilicate and tempered glass beds tend to showcase the best thermal shock resistance.

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