I spent a few hours testing out this beginner-friendly 3D pen to see if it really was the ideal purchase for first-time users across a variety of uses and situations, and here’s my full review of everything you need to know before adding it to your cart.

My Overall Verdict

While the SCRIB3D P1 did extrude more reliably than the Pika3D Super, and with much less stringing, the fact that I couldn’t use it for very long before the heat became uncomfortable is a major drawback.

And, the awkward button placements also made more it difficult to operate and switch out filaments mid-project than other higher-end 3D pents I’ve tested like the MYNT3D Super. I therefore recommend the MYNT3D over the SCRIB3D P1. For my overall thoughts, you can also read my full round-up of the best 3D pens.

I still recommend the SCRIB3D P1 if you’re already comfortable using 3D pens, but I did not find it as beginner-friendly as they claim.

Pros

• Clear instructions and guides
• Excellent stencils
• Good range of filaments included

Cons

• Button placement makes the pen more difficult to use than others
• The heat made it uncomfortable to use over long periods

Budget Pick for Kids

SCRIB3D P1 3D Pen with Display

4.3

$39.99 $36.99

Beginner-friendly, low-cost 3D pen reaches high temps but has safety features.

Easy to use right away and promote STEM skills.

Kit includes:

• 3 colors (30 feet) PLA plastic,
• power adapter,
• step-by-step manual, and
• free stencil guide.

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11/16/2025 01:03 pm GMT

My Tests

The stencils provided with the SCRIB3D P1 3D pen were ideal for testing out multiple 3D pens. They were simple but creative, and allowed for a good range of try-outs while I got to grips with the technology.

When drawing a simple jigsaw piece, I found the extrusion speed to be perfectly manageable even for a beginner, and the layering was much better than the more child-friendly models out there. There was very little stringing and I found that a steady enough hand and a little patience made for some very good results.

However, the overheating issue I mentioned earlier did prevent me from trying out any of the more complex designs, which I found disappointing. 

I couldn’t use the pen for more than 10 minutes at a time without worrying about the heat, so I couldn’t spend hours creating a more elaborate design, unless I stopped and started many times.

Comfort

The sleek design of the SCRIB3D P1 3D pen looks cool and modern, but it sacrifices some actual functionality for style. 

It was difficult to keep a firm grip on the pen, and the wide space between the buttons meant I frequently found myself accidentally hitting the wrong one or repeatedly turning it off mid-design by mistake.

I got better and handling these mistakes with practice, though I found the dexterity required made the SCRIB3D P1 less beginner-friendly than it claimed to be, even though it extrudes automatically.

Even when I found my footing, I wasn’t able to use the P1 for longer than 5 to 10 minutes at a time. This was due to both my difficulty with the awkwardly placed buttons and sliders, but also the fact that the tip of the pen near where I had to hold it became uncomfortably hot after a very short amount of time.

Is The SCRIB3D P1 3D Pen Kid-Friendly?

I do not recommend the SCRIB3D P1 3D pen for kids mainly due to the tip becoming very hot within 5-10 minutes of use, which was uncomfortable (and could potentially lead to safety issues). 

While I expected the tip to be very hot, and avoided touching it, the area near the stop/start button became very warm to the point where I removed the power cable instead of canceling extrusion because I was worried it would become dangerous.

Fortunately, it operates only when plugged in, so such a speedy shutdown was very easy by removing the cable from the pen.

While I did find that this problem was alleviated by setting the temperature to the lower end of the recommended range for PLA, the fact that the default setting caused such discomfort was a little worrying.

For this reason, I recommend the SCRIB3D P1 for adult use only, as it states on the box.

Reliability and Versatility

Despite not being able to use the SCRIB3D P1 3D printing pen for particularly long periods at a time, I did find the extrusion and layering to be much better than lower-end models such as the Pika3D Super pen, which I tested on the same day.

The extrusion temperature and speed were both very easy to manage and control, thanks to the small display screen on the pen itself.

The SCRIB3D P1 is also capable of 3D drawing with both PLA and ABS plastic, and switching between the two is as easy as pushing a button, so if you have more versatile projects in mind you’ll be happy to know that there are more options. 

You can also use any standard brand PLA or ABS with the SCRIB3D P1 as long as they’re 3D pen-ready, as it supports third-party materials with no issue.

Of the three, the MYNT3D Super is my clear favorite, and I here will explain why I highly recommend this 3D pen and to whom.

My Overall Verdict

Of the three 3D pens I tested, the MYNT3D Super is my favorite. Its sleek design is both cool to look at and makes it very comfortable to use even for longer 1-hour-plus stretches. It did not overheat or clog, and the easy fine-tuning settings made getting perfect results a breeze.

While not strictly a 3D pen designed solely for professionals, I don’t recommend the MYNT3D Super to complete beginners and it’s less suitable for kids than other pens I’ve tested like the Pika3D Super.

MYNT3D Super 3D Pen

4.8

$39.99

Its slim appearance makes it extremely pleasant to use, even for extended periods of time—more than an hour.

Feature: 1.75mm ABS and PLA Compatible 3D Printing Pen

The kit comes with a compact, ergonomic touch pen and an A/C adapter in three different colors, along with a one-year guaranteed warranty.

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11/16/2025 01:02 pm GMT

My Tests

Using the same jigsaw piece tests as I did for all three of the pens I tried out, you can clearly see that the MYNT3D Super 3D pen came out the clearest. With excellent layer adhesion and speed compared to both the Pika3D Super and SCRIB3D P1, I got fantastic results in far less time.

To test out the speed and ease of use, I also gave the the MYNT3D Super 3D pen to someone who had never used a 3D pen before to test whether it was really that simple to use. He was able to make a multicolored watermelon wedge with no issues whatsoever after simply reading the manual.

Compared to the Pika Super and the SCRIB3D 3D pens, the MYNT3D was more comfortable, had faster and more consistent extrusion, and the layers attached perfectly.

Comfort

The MYNT3D Super has a sleek and elegant design that both looks cool, and is also very easy to hold. I used it constantly for almost an hour without ever cramping or feeling the need to readjust. 

The cuboid-like shape of the pen’s body felt like using a computer mouse. It was comfortable and easy to hold, so it was easy to use for longer periods of time without needing a break.

The buttons are well placed so you can turn extrusion on and off mid-drawing to change filaments or stop if you need to work on another area, and I never found myself searching for the correct button when I needed to do so because my thumb was safely on it the entire time.

Is the MYNT3D Super Pen Kid-Friendly?

The MYNT3D Super is not designed for kids. While it isn’t unsafe, the lack of a display screen and slender design makes it more difficult for younger users to manage and use.

Even the pen’s body shape itself is designed for adult hands, and it’s not as thick and easy for small hands to hold as the Pika3D Super is, for example.

And, because the MYNT3D Super 3D pen is designed for more professional users, the temperature setting can be fine-tuned with the simple push of a button. While this is great for its intended users, holding a 3D printing pen that heats up to 230℃ is not ideal for children.

Reliability and Versatility

The MYNT3D Super is a very reliable 3D pen. By following the very well-laid-out guidelines included in the user manual, I was able to draw to my heart’s content without any clogging, speed, or temperature issues.

Where the Pika Super 3D pen had stringing issues, and I had trouble with awkward button placements on the SCRIB3D as well as overheating issues, I found none of these problems present with the MYNT3D.

Like with the other pens, extrusion can be done manually by holding down the feed button, or automatically by double-pressing it. This gives you full freedom to stop and start as your design requires, or extruder the filament continuously without having to keep the button held down throughout.

The ideal settings for both ABS and PLA are clearly outlined in the user manual, making the MYNT3D Super very easy to get started with. The extrusion speed is controlled with an intuitive slider, so you can fine-tune it even mid-design to suit your project.

Because it needs a power cable to function, emergency stops are easy to perform by simply unplugging the cable whenever you feel you need to. This also ensures you won’t accidentally put the pen away hot when you’re done, and is true of all three of the pens I tested.

Having spent hours with them all, including the Pika3D Super 3D, Pika3D’s most popular model, here’s everything you need to know about this beginner-friendly 3D pen.

My Overall Verdict

While it will underwhelm experienced users or professionals, it was a fun toy to play with that I’d highly recommend for parents with creative children who want a new medium to test their art.

Pika3D pens are a delightful line of 3D pens designed for young and aspiring creators with little to no experience creating 3D artwork.

Despite some minor issues with stringing and layer adhesion that I did not encounter with more professional-quality pens such as the MYNT3D which I also tested, I found the Pika3D Super to be a fantastic 3D pen for younger users and beginners who want to dip their toes into 3D drawing.

PIKA3D Super 3D Pen

4.3

$59.99

Highly recommended for parents of artistic kids looking for a fresh platform to showcase their creations.

Includes:

• 3D Pen,
• 4 Colors of PLA Filament Refill
• Stencil Guide and
• User Manual

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11/16/2025 01:03 pm GMT

Our Tests

To begin testing the Pika3D Super, I started with some of the stencils that came with the pen. This was a good learning curve for using the pen as it included the basic outline of their mascot, which was fun to test out. 

Though, I did find it odd that they didn’t include red filament, which is the color the mascot stencil is pictured in.

Some other stencils were a little more complicated, and the focus on creativity and ease meant they were fun to mess around with. As part of my review series of all the most popular 3D pens, I made simple jigsaw pieces, the Pika3D Super one you can see pictured above.

Comfort

The Pika 3D Super is very well designed for comfort and long-time use. The large cylinder design is easy to hold for longer while drawing bigger designs. The extrusion also happens automatically, so you don’t need to hold down a button to keep the plastic pouring onto the page.

However, If you choose to use the automatic extraction option, I recommend keeping your finger on the extruder button, as it’s also used to stop the extrusion process.

I was pleasantly surprised to find the body itself didn’t heat up even when used for over 30 minutes at a time. As long as I kept my hand away from the tip during that time, it was a perfectly safe and comfortable pen to use over long stretches.

Is The Pika3D Super Kid Friendly?

The Pika3D Super pen’s box recommends the pen for adult use only, though it is still safe for children under strict and careful supervision. Only the very end of the pen became too hot to touch, and the PLA cooled and dried in an average of 6 seconds, making the projects safe to touch very soon after completion.

Though if you do want a 3D pen designed specifically for young kids to use freely, I recommend checking out the Pika3D Junior instead.

The actual drawing does require a steady hand, though. So while it is completely safe to use, it’s a better gift for kids who have already shown some interest in creating art rather than a complete beginner’s gateway to creating.

To add to the safety features, the Pika3D Super only works when plugged in. This means if anything goes wrong you can easily unplug the wire from the pen to make it stop immediately. It also means the pen can’t be left on by mistake as long as you unplug it after use.

Reliability and Versatility

The Pika3D Super pen was very easy to set up, with the manual being laid out and written in a way that even children will fully understand. With tips on temperature tuning for ideal extrusion and troubleshooting, anyone should find the setup and use very easy.

The pen itself came with a generous amount of PLA filament to use, though it works with ABS too. The built-in screen makes switching filaments a breeze as it automatically programs the ideal settings for whichever material you’re using.

While you can buy more filament directly from the Pika3D website, it does support third-party filament, so you can shop around and find a cheaper alternative if you like.

Installing and switching out filaments was a breeze even mid-project. However, this is where the first disadvantage of the pen becomes apparent.

Compared to more professional-grade 3D pens like the Scrib3D or the MYNT3D, the Pika3D Super is a little harder to get right. Many projects came out stringy and needed scissors to even out, particularly with PLA which continued to extrude longer than desired.

While you can tweak the temperature settings to help prevent this, it’s often too late by the time the issue is noted.

This issue can not only ruin your 3D drawing, but also waste a lot of filament over time. I also found that layering could have been better for the first few things I attempted to draw, making truly 3D artwork very difficult to get right.

After two weeks with the Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus, my lasting impression is that Artillery’s latest large-format printer is a beast. Both in stature and in its printing capabilities. I have no qualms describing it as one of, if not the best affordably-priced large-format printer on the market today.

My Quick Verdict

It’s clear that Artillery has put substantial effort into designing and fine-tuning a machine that looks great and prints even better, courtesy of a slew of modern niceties and small touches that make it deeply satisfying to use regardless of how many 3D printing stripes you’ve accumulated. It’s one for determined first-timers and skilled veterans looking to supersize their printing projects alike.

Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus 3D Printer

4.6

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In my opinion, it gives impressive large-format printers like the Neptune 4 Max, Anycubic Kobra Max, and more niche, budget outliers like the Mingda Magician Pro and Sovol SV06 Plus a run for their money. The package just feels more complete, whether you’re looking at tentpole features like print volume and direct drive extrusion, or more subtle features like a detachable touchscreen, an on-bed purge pad, LED light strip, or an integrated tool draw.

But, as with any printer, the Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus isn’t perfect. The assembly process doesn’t have the plug-and-play simplicity of newer printers that have become popular recently.

It also has a curious bed leveling routine that combines an initial, lengthy manual leveling routine with an even lengthier automatic run. But, on this point, this isn’t necessarily bad news when the X4 Plus pumps out pristine prints without as much as a whiff of a printer error or adhesion issues.

Pros:

• Huge print volume – 400 x 400 x 300 mm
• Fantastic print quality whatever the size of the model
• Sturdy metal base and quality parts throughout
• Klipper-enabled print speeds up to 500 mm/s
• Small touches – filament runout sensor, tool draw, purge pad, build plate positioning guides
• Excellent PruisaSlicer-based proprietary slicer + remote monitoring/printer management Fluidd software
• Direct drive extruder and 300°C high flow nozzle to handle flexible and other exotic materials
• Included tools, glue, sample filament, user manual, USB, replacement nozzle, and much more
• Quiet operation

Cons:

• Very hands-on assembly, despite shipping semi-assembled
• Lengthy initial manual bed leveling routine
• On the upper end of the consumer-grade large-format 3D printer pricing scale

Testing and Results

I used a combination of basic Anycubic PLA (a good every-person filament option that’s not terrible, but not superb either) and ERYONE Matte PLA, one of my favorite materials for the quality of the formula, the fantastic finish, and how immune it is to errors, stringing, and other printing annoyances.

The X4 Plus ships with a USB stick with an assortment of starter print models, including the classic 3DBenchy. 

Before starting, the printer performs a purging routine that runs the nozzle over an indented rubber pad on the back of the plate to clean off any excess filament, and then deposits a large single-line layer on the side of the plate just in case.

The heated bed hit 60°C in around a minute, while the nozzle was up to 200-210°C in around 15 seconds.

Test #1: 3DBenchy

As is customary with a new printer, the first print was a 3DBenchy, which printed in around 20 minutes thanks to the high print speeds offered by the X4 Plus. 

It’s hard to find any fault with the finished model. The X4 Plus confidently tackled all the testing bridges, curves, and details found on the Benchy. This first 3DBenchy was among the best I’ve seen on printers under $800. No tweaking, no adjustments; just a straight, pre-sliced model out-of-the-box

Especially noticeable was the crisp layering and how little residue and stringing was produced. You typically get the odd blob or mangled overhang, but not here. The first layers were put down beautifully and it was clear how well the machine handles the vibrations caused by high print speeds, mainly thanks to the robust base, support rods, and smooth dual-axis rods on the Y-axis.

Promising stuff for a first print.

Test #2: Pencil Holder

Next was a pencil holder – another no-supports model loaded on the provided USB stick. The model features a patchy, open pattern on the vertical cylinder, which puts the X4 Plus’s ability to handle overhangs and bridges to the test. It took around 2 hours 40 mins to print.

The results were impressive, bar some minor stringing and blemishes underneath some of the overhangings, but these were easily removed with some post-print cleanup. 

A brim was used for this one. It tore up easily after the print leaving a clean line around the base on the pencil holder.

Test #3: Small Totoro

Moving on from the free provided models, our next test was a small Totoro figurine with supports. This one came off the print bed in just over 90 mins. 

The flat, rounded surfaces making up the body of the Totoro came out clean and sharp, with beautiful layering. The small details on the instrument and face were feature-full, proving that despite its size the X4 Plus can also tackle smaller models.

Support work was smooth as well and the supports printed to support the arms and instrument snapped off cleanly, leaving very few traces or blemishes. What did remain was easily removed with a bit of touching up.

Test #4: Large Happy Pot

To test how the Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus fares when taking on large projects, I fired up a large plant pot print, suitably named the Happy Pot. 5h40 later, the print came off the bed looking fantastic. 

Again, the layering on the large cylindrical body was flawless with no artifacts or blemishes. Of particular note was how well the Sidewinder pushed the seam to the back of the model so that the front remained clean and sharp.

Due to some minor adhesion issues with the raft during an initial test print, I did have to apply some glue to the bed to get the Happy Pot to stick. It worked a treat, though, and the glue came off easily post-print with a dab of Isopropyl Alcohol.

Test #5: Spiral Plant Pot

For my final test, I printed a spiral plant pot, which printed in under 2 hours. This was the best print I achieved with the X4 Plus. There were no visible issues whatsoever and the X4 Plus printed well with the ERYONE PLA.

The print was near perfect and fully captured the gorgeous details on the spiral all around the pot. It’s so good you’d easily mistake it for a manufactured piece. I’ll be trying a supersized version in the near future to see if it can maintain these superb results.

Assembly and Setup

Overall, unpacking and assembly took about an hour. That’s a reasonable amount of time, but is longer than other printers I’ve tested recently, such as the super-quick 15 minutes it took for the Ankermaker M5C.

Like most printers, the Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus arrives in a large box made of thick cardboard. Picking out all the parts, which include a separated gantry, heavy base with the build plate, spool holder, accessory bag, wiring, support roads, screen bracket, touchscreen, filament runout sensor, and Wi-Fi receiver, felt a tad overwhelming. But the user manual with clear instructional diagrams eased concerns somewhat, despite hit and miss English translation.

Assembling the printer starts with attaching the gantry to the base. Easy enough… until you spot that the guide holes are located under the heavy printer base, requiring some contortionist-style balancing while you feed them in then get a few twists in. It feels like a more user-friendly solution would make this easier for lone makers who can’t call in a family member to hold the printer sideways to attach the gantry.

The spool holder came next. It attaches to the top horizontal part of the gantry; a good position in my opinion, especially as it’s angled forward to promote smoother filament entry into the print head, unlike the sideways slanted setup we see on quite a few other printers. 

The runout sensor also attaches to the base of the spool via a single screw. It was unclear whether you need to leave some movement in the sensor to compensate for natural tugs and pulls to avoid the filament snapping as it’s fed down or if it needs to be fixed. The user manual is unclear on that matter. I contacted Artillery for clarification and will update as needed here. But either way, with movement or without, the runout sensor worked flawlessly.

Next up, was attaching the screen bracket. This again proved tedious as the screws are quite short and the angle a little awkward. Following this is a quick sweep of the printer to plug in the wiring on the touchscreen, stepper motors, runout sensor, and print head assembly. The latter comes with a little clip that screws into the X-axis stepper motor platform – a nice touch for cable management.

The last step was placing and screwing in the two support rods on the back of the printer. One end attaches to the base of the printer, while the other screws in the top of the gantry. The idea here is to mitigate vibrations and movement as the print head moves up the gantry for larger print projects.

Alongside the printer itself, the package included a trove of accessories and tools: 

• Wrench
• Allen key set
• Replacement cut of PTFE tubing for the printhead
• Metal scraper
• Pliers
• Needle probe to clean the nozzle
• Zip ties
• Replacement nozzle
• Sample filament
• Glue stick
• USB drive (with install files for the slicer and a digital version of the user manual)
• A tube of grease
• Quick start guide
• User manual
• Two pieces of leveling paper.

The user manual mentions a zipped bag to store all these, but wasn’t included in our package, presumably as it’s a pre-release version of the printer.

Bed Leveling and Filament Loading

There are three steps to leveling the bed: setting the Z-axis offset, manually leveling the bed, and then running an automatic bed leveling routine.

The offset adjustment is the typical process of sliding an A4 piece of paper (or the provided leveling paper) under the nozzle, and lowering the print head via the controls on the touchscreen until you feel a slight tug.

The manual leveling requires the user to move the print head to 7 pre-defined spots on the bed, sliding under a piece of paper and moving the larger screw knobs under the bed until you feel light friction for each point. 

With so many printers offering hassle-free, hands-off automatic bed leveling, it felt like a throwback to the old days. I’d much prefer easy auto-leveling, but given the size of the print bed, I understand why.

After the manual calibration, the instructions prompted me to fire off automatic bed leveling, a lengthy 121-point routine that took around 10 minutes to complete. The process appears to take into account the manual adjustments and then supplements them with further data to compensate for varying heights on the bed during the printing process. 

It’s unclear how often manual leveling is required, but after 15 hours of printing, the X4 Plus showed no signs of needed re-calibration.

Overall, getting through this calibration, which is only required when running the machine for the first time, took around 30 minutes.

Filament loading is easy and straightforward, controlled by a simple function on the touchscreen. There’s no latch to hold on the print head as the filament is fed in. It’s a minor convenience decision, but frees up both hands to feed in the filament, which makes the process simpler. 

The filament is first fed through the filament run-out sensor, then into a hole in the print assembly. Tapping the feed button heats the nozzle. Push in the filament, tap the button again and the extruder gear will latch on, pulling the filament through. The function allows you to adjust the length of filament fed in – 10 mm, 50 mm, and 100 mm – useful if you want a clear visual cue that the filament has loaded correctly as it streams out of the nozzle after being heated.

Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus Design and Features

Here’s a quick breakdown of the Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus specs:

• Build Volume – 300 x 300 x 400 mm 
• Print Speed – 500 mm/s 
• Nozzle diameter – 0.4 mm
• Max Nozzle Temperature – 300°C 
• Max Heated Bed Temperature – 100°C 
• Filament Support – PLA, TPU, PETG, ABS, PET, Carbon 
• Connectivity – Wi-Fi, USB

Build Quality and Design

The Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus is built like a tank. It features metal parts throughout, apart from plastic casings to cover the stepper motor, print assembly, and front base of the printer. But this is high-grade plastic that doesn’t feel flimsy. All this means the X4 Plus has a real heft to it. It sits sturdily on a desk or workspace, important for a large format printer and the way the print head slings itself about at high speeds.

Though it would be a little unsightly in the middle of a living room, partly because of its height and size, it’s far from being an eyesore.

With large printers, stability is always a concern. The X4 Plus tackles this head-on with two sturdy support rods, chunky dampening feet, and dual rods on the Y-axis. These work together to dampen vibrations and keep the printer firmly in place even when pushing into the top portions of the 400 mm Y-axis of the build volume.

Build Volume and Print Surface

With a 300 x 300 x 400 mm build volume, the X4 Plus offers substantially more room to work with than standard Ender 3-style printers. It’s not the largest out there, but it offers enough to print a helmet in a single sitting or a towering vase with no issues. Cosplayers and TTRPG players looking to produce terrain will find plenty to like in that respect.

The build surface is of the now fairly standard flexible PEI-coated variety with a rough finish to help with adhesion. As above, it was slightly warped, which is hard to avoid in these sizes, but the printer took care of this through calibration. With a slight flex most prints come off cleanly, but for more determined prints a slight pull typically does the job.

I also like the fact that it’s black, which helps in identifying oil build up, filament residue, and dust. Additionally, there are two screws mounted on the back of the heated bed, which act as guides when placing the print surface, which itself has two small triangle cutouts that fit the screws perfectly. No guesswork here, just slide the plate on and you’re done, safe in the knowledge that it’s lined up perfectly.

Spool Holder

Though made of plastic, the spool holder is another sturdy part of the X4 Plus. It’s angled forward to ease filament feeding, something I much prefer to the sidewise-mounted spools common on so many printers. 

The runout sensor also attaches to the base of the spool holder, a clever, out-of-the-way position that keeps things organized and clean. The sensor shows a visible green light when filament is fed and red when there’s a break. This is a great visual cue to accompany the error message on the touchscreen should filament run out.

Print Speed

The Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus is capable of print speeds up to 500 mm/s. This is enabled through Klipper firmware. While you’re unlikely to regularly hit 500 mm/s unless you’re happy with a major quality drop, the X4 Plus performs consistently well anywhere up to 250-300 mm/s.

Overall, the reduced print times are a genuine boon, especially if this is your first high-speed printer and you’re graduating from a machine that capped out at 80-100 mm/s. The difference is noticeable with a bump in how productive the printer can be.

Touchscreen

The X4 Plus features a 4.3’’ color touchscreen. It’s detachable with a magnetic and extendable phone wire-style cord, which is useful. The UI is well designed with every option and setting intuitively placed. For example, you can switch off the run-out detector, adjust fan speeds, and boost print speeds on the fly from the touchscreen.

You also get on-screen model previews, which is great if you’re tracking down a particular file on a USB stacked with projects. The filament loading/unloading option is one of the better iterations we’ve seen as well with the option to define the length of filament being fed in or out of the print head, as mentioned above.

Noise

Despite its size and print speeds, the Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus is surprisingly quiet.

Overall, I am impressed with how well Artillery has managed to keep the decibel level to a reasonable, pleasant level. Sitting in the same room as the print for a 5 hour print doesn’t feel draining like it does with louder printers.

Overnight printing is a possibility with this printer, though high print speeds do produce vibrations that can travel through desks in the floor, so your mileage will vary depending on your setup.

Filament Compatibility

The X4 Plus prints PLA, TPU, ABS, and PETG. The 300°C nozzle and 100°C heated bed open the door to more exotic filaments, namely filled variants like carbon, but you’d need to buy or build an enclosed chamber or tent to maintain a stable thermal environment.

Extras

It’s a little gimmicky, but I am a big fan of the built-in tool draw on the front of the base. It’s deep enough to store pliers, for example, and I was able to bundle in all the tools that come with the printer, except for the metal scraper. It’s a small touch, but one that adds the overall cohesiveness of the machine and is a testament to how Artillery keeps the user front and center.

The printer has a small purge pad mounted on the back right of the build plate. It’s made up of small rubber bumps. Before each printer, the X4 Plus carries the nozzle over the pad several times to remove and purge any excess filament buildup. Again, very much an optional choice, but one that does make a difference and saves you from having to manually clean the nozzle before it starts depositing melted filament on the bed.

Software

The Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus ships with two pieces of software: ArtillerySlicer and Fluidd.

ArtillerySlicer is, for all intents and purposes, PrusaSlicer, but with a rejigged logo and name. The functionality is identical, as is the layout and color scheme. All for the better in my opinion given that Prusa’s slicer is one of the best out there.

ArtillerySlicer comes with a pre-configured profile for the X4 Plus along with settings for all types of compatible filaments. As with the usual version of PrusaSlicer, the software regularly downloads updates to tweak and improve these profiles.

In my experience, they worked flawlessly and it really felt like they were optimized to get the most out of the X4 Plus. But, should you want to, the slicer allows you to tinker with all and any setting as you would in Prusa Slicer. Want to bump up the nozzle temperature, reduce the infill density, or set the overhang percentage for supports? No problem.

Fluid is a remote monitoring and print control program that works in any browser over Wi-Fi. It’s installed directly onto the printer and in some ways is an extension of the on-screen UI, but souped up. You can download files to the printer, fire off prints, pause them, extrude/retract filament, move the print head/build surface around, increase the flow rate, and much more.

Alongside, it offers detailed monitoring info with crafts, macros, temperatures, fan speeds, and so much more. It can be a little overwhelming for beginners, but experienced printers will get a lot out of how much detailed information about the printer is on offer in Fluidd.

My Final Thoughts

The Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus has in the space of 2 weeks quickly become the favorite printer I own. Its large build volume offers the potential for huge print projects and it has the print quality to match those lofty ambitions. 

The wealth of little touches and extras make using it not just easy but pleasant. It’s hard to escape the feeling that you’re working with a high-quality machine designed with intent and thoughtfulness throughout.

I’d confidently recommend the Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus to anyone after a large format printer. Beginners may find the initial setup a little testing, but see it as a baptism of fire. In any case, it’s considerably easier to set up and get printing than the printers of old and the hours of tinkering and calibration they required. For veterans, it’s a dream come true.

Artillery have set a new standard for large-format printers with the X4 Plus. It’s a large format 3D printing beast that’s worth every penny.

The Mars 4 Ultra is a great entry-level printer for people who want quality, but don’t need absolute perfection and don’t want to spend time chasing after it.

Although it’s not as large as the Elegoo Saturn series, it does champion the best quality on the market for hobbyist resin printers. But there is a downside: the ACF film in the resin vat.

Good budget resin printer overall

ELEGOO Mars 4 Ultra

4.2

Features:

• 7-Inch 9K High Resolution LCD
• Laser-carved Build Plate
• Open Space GOO Format
• Built-in 4G RAM
• Built-in Wi-Fi Connection & High-Speed Wifi Transfer
• 4-point Leveling System

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Overall, the Mars 4 Ultra is still an amazing choice for beginner or intermediate users. It’s a reasonable price, has good quality, is built well, and even has some extra features thrown in to make it worthwhile over the Mars 4.

In my hands-on review, I’ll show you my print results from my tests, show you the key features of the Mars 4 Ultra, and how they actually impact your printing experience.

Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra Review: Summary

Let’s start by going over the main selling points and drawbacks of the Mars 4 Ultra. 

Pros

• Extreme high quality
• Fast and easy setup
• Stable 4-point build plate for less frequent releveling
• Wi-Fi connectivity
• Updated touchscreen UI

Cons

• ACF film causes softening effect in final prints
• Leveling may be a problem for beginners
• Incompatible with Elegoo Mars Mate Air Purifier

Assembly and Setup

Assembly

Similar to other Elegoo Mars machines, assembly consists of removing a couple protective films, screwing on the build plate, and putting on the cover. There is really nothing more to it.

It will probably take you more time to assemble the rest of your resin setup than to get the Mars 4 Ultra up and running.

My setup involved two DIY wash containers, one with water for a preliminary wash and another with 95% isopropyl alcohol for a full wash. I also have a SUNLU curing station to finish the prints.

For removing prints during testing, I stuck to using the metal scraper provided in the box with the Mars 4 Ultra. 

Leveling

The first problem I encountered with the Mars 4 Ultra was a too-thick leveling card. It’s actually made of a type of cardstock instead of being the thickness of an A4 piece of paper.

Elegoo’s instructions tell you to push down hard on the build plate while tightening the leveling screws to get a proper level. I did this with an A4 piece of paper and had good results. In theory, you might be able to use the leveling card provided if you’re able to push down hard enough.

I didn’t want to risk having a print stick to the FEP (or in this case, ACF) film, so I erred on the safe side by using the A4 paper.

Once you have the screws tightened, press set Z = 0 in the menu. 

Resin Pour

I used Elegoo’s standard gray resin. You can get better print results with a mixture of resins or a higher quality resin, but I wanted to stick with this one because it’s widely accessible.

I shook the bottle for around 2 minutes before pouring it into the vat until the outlined max line. I personally didn’t wait until all the bubbles surfaced and popped, and it didn’t seem to cause any issues.

Testing & Results

Test #1: Elegoo Rook

My first test print was the Elegoo Rook which comes preloaded on the USB. I wasn’t sure what to expect yet, so I went overboard in ensuring bed adhesion by increasing the bottom-level exposure time all the way to 35 seconds.

That ended up being the one real issue with this print. It definitely stuck to the plate, and getting it off after the print finished was a struggle. I started by using the metal scraper and trying to pry it off using a wiggling motion and significant force.

Then I applied some isopropyl alcohol, and when that didn’t work, I poured hot water on the build plate to soften the resin. The scratches and scrapes pictured around the base are from trying to get it off the build plate.

The detail was decent despite only washing for a minute in total. However, I did notice that the text was softer than it could have been. I suspect this is due to the ACF film– more on that later.

One thing that I want to highlight from this print is that any model with a flat base as part of the final product is going to have the pattern of the build plate on the bottom.

Test #2: Queek Headhunter and Base

The next test print was a Warhammer 40K-inspired model and base. It’s called a Queek Headhunter, styled after the Skaven. I chose it for the small size, detail, and dynamic pose. Thankfully, it adhered to the bed and the print completed successfully.

Quality-wise, there were only two problems: the base was mildly chipped upon removal from the build plate, and some supports were difficult to remove. 

Of course, neither of these can be attributed to the printer. It took 7 hours to print from start to finish.

I was impressed by the small-scale detail the Mars 4 Ultra was able to capture. My camera struggled to capture it, but there was even a braided texture on its necklace.

Test #3: Ball-Jointed Doll (BJD) Head

My third test print was not so lucky. I chose to print the face plate and head cap of a ball-jointed doll (BJD). I felt like it was a good fit for the printer, seeing as the ACF film’s softening effect minimizes layer lines and the high resolution would be much appreciated in a BJD model.

Although the most important details of the print came out fine, there were major delineation issues around the edges. 

With temperatures dropping to well below 0 outside, and this print finishing late into the night, I actually suspect this was the cause rather than improper supports or another issue.

Test #4: Ornate Mew

My last print was a highly detailed miniature of Mew. With fine-tuned settings and no user errors in the way, it was the perfect final test for the Mars 4 Ultra. The main purpose of this print was to see how much of an issue the frosted ACF film could be for prints that need sharp detailing.

In my opinion, the high resolution produced a fantastic model: I wish there was just slightly more sharpness on the ornate detailing, but it’s still a great quality print.

It’s a beautiful piece, but the details are softer compared to what they should be in an ideal world.

The Mars 4 Ultra is a very capable printer and the ACF film is its Achilles heel. Although I was still impressed with the prints I was able to make, a replacement film might be in order. That being said, high resolution isn’t the only thing the Mars 4 Ultra has to offer.

In the rest of the review, I’ll cover the main design and features before giving you one final judgment.

Design & Features

Frame & Form

The Mars 4 Ultra is almost identical to the earlier Mars 4 in design, with the main visible difference being the translucent black cover.

It has a modest build volume of 153.36 x 77.76 x 165 mm. To put that into perspective, you could print a small squadron of 4-5 minis, or a couple larger busts. It’s not a lot, but it works if you don’t have high production needs.

Actually, the smaller build size helps the Mars 4 Ultra pump out insanely high-quality prints, since the pixels are spread out across less space— more on that later.

There is only a single Z-rail holding up the build plate, which is fine given the small size. All in all, it’s a robust and functional design on par with the rest of Elegoo’s resin printers.

Touchscreen and UI

Unlike some of Elegoo’s other machines, the USB port has been moved to the front. It’s a minor change that I’m personally a fan of, since it makes uploading files much easier.

Elegoo also updated the UI of the Mars 4 Ultra’s touch screen compared to the older Mars 4. 

There were some grammar errors (e.g. “deleted” instead of “delete” and “canceled” instead of “cancel”) and minor inconveniences, but it looked modern and was laid out reasonably well. After the initial setup and print, I had no issue navigating the menu.

One of my favorite features was the ability to edit printer settings right in the menus. Sure, it’s not a must-have, but it was helpful when I was dialing in things like the bottom exposure setting.

During a print, you can see all kinds of helpful metrics by tapping on the progress bar mid-print.

I like to pause my prints around the 20-30% mark so I can check that they’ve adhered to the bed properly, and the menu didn’t make me jump through any hoops. 

Textured Build Plate

The build plate on the Mars 4 Ultra is made of a textured aluminum alloy. None of my prints failed to adhere, and I used the provided metal scraper to pry them off the plate.

It’s easy to scratch if you’re using a pocket knife, putty knife, or metal scraper, but it won’t affect your prints unless you’ve damaged it to the point of a metal pileup. It just needs to be reasonably flat to function, and you can actually machine it flat as necessary.

More important than the build plate material is the joint. It uses a 4-point system, compared to the 2 points that earlier Elegoo models had. The 4 screws only take slightly longer to level, but adds extra security to make sure your bed won’t un-level itself through use.

LCD Screen

The LCD screen, in tandem with the small build size, is the defining feature of the Mars 4 Ultra. It’s advertised as having a 9K resolution.

What’s actually important is the micron size of each pixel. Smaller pixels usually means higher print quality, and the 8,520 x 4,320p resolution on a small LCD means the Mars 4 Ultra has 18-micron pixels.

At least at the time of writing, this is the highest possible quality you can get from a consumer resin printer. It’s better than competitors like the Phrozen Mini 8K’s 22 microns, and the Saturn 12K’s 19 x 24 microns.

It also utilizes a Fresnel lens, which is becoming increasingly common in resin printers. In layman’s terms, it’s more effective at getting the UV light exactly where it needs to go.

Resin Vat and Film

At the end of the day, the actual vat part of a resin vat works more or less the same for every printer. I will say that the tapered edge makes it much easier to pour resin back out of the vat.

What you really need to pay attention to is the Mars 4 Ultra’s use of ACF instead of a FEP screen. ACF is becoming the go-to for resin printers, and it does come with some advantages.

The main benefit is that it releases easier, potentially allowing for higher print speeds. Unfortunately, it’s also frosted unlike the crystal-clear FEP and nFEP films of the past. The result is degraded quality and softer, less ‘crisp’ prints.

There are a lot of claims floating around that ACF is strictly better than FEP, especially by companies that are pushing the change in their marketing material. However, there is a very real concern of degraded quality when using ACF.

Whether or not this matters really depends on you.

If you’re someone who doesn’t want to mess with settings and anti-aliasing to minimize layer lines, the softening effect could be a bonus. It makes the layer lines less apparent, even though it also degrades quality.

The thing is, you may not notice a difference in many detailed prints.  

I found it a little bothersome for my BJD prints because of all the smooth surfaces; for the Warhammer-inspired mini, it didn’t matter at all.

Unless you’re taking a magnifying glass to every print, the Mars 4 Ultra’s print quality is already astounding.

Ultimately, I think the ACF film is a misguided decision but isn’t a real problem for most casual users. If it really comes down to it, swapping it for a FEP film is cheap and takes mere minutes.

Tempered Glass Screen Protector

I was relieved to see a tempered glass screen protector listed as a feature. The Mars 4 Ultra aside, I think every modern resin printer should include at least a basic screen protector.

The reality is that spills happen, and it can be an expensive mistake. Although you can buy and install a screen protector on your own, it’s much easier— especially for newbies— if it’s already included.

It does seem like the protector is underneath the black tape rim, which will make it a pain to replace. There’s also a possibility that I didn’t receive a screen protector with my printer at all.

Either way, it’s a strange decision.

Wi-Fi Connectivity

The Mars 4 Ultra’s Wi-Fi connectivity is another direct upgrade from the original Mars 4. Especially since the provided USB is low-quality, Wi-Fi turned out to be one of my favorite quality-of-life features.

It’s easy to find the Wi-Fi option in the touchscreen menu and connect. You can send files to your printer so long as your computer is connected to the same network.

Charcoal Filter

Elegoo has made a point to include a small charcoal filter in the box with their resin printers, and the Mars 4 Ultra is no exception. 

Let’s get this out of the way: the filter really doesn’t help with VOCs from resin.

What it does help with is the overpowering resin smell, and for that, it’s definitely appreciated. A setup where you vent the fumes into a filtration system or outside is what you need to maintain good air quality.

Sadly, the Mars 4 Ultra isn’t compatible with the large Mars Mate air purifier that Elegoo sells. It begs the question why the filter is named “Mars Mate” when it doesn’t work with most Mars models.

Software: Voxelab Tango vs Chitubox

The Mars 4 Ultra comes with a lifetime license to the Voxelab Tango slicer, which usually costs a pretty penny to use. There is a card in the box that includes a code for the slicer. Installers for Voxelab Tango and the free Chitubox Basic are loaded on the USB, so there’s no need to chase down install links.

I tried both slicers for the test prints, focusing on the features that are most commonly used and most helpful for the typical hobbyist. I imported, scaled, auto-generated supports, sliced, and sent the final file remotely for printing.

None of my test prints were really suitable for hollowing, but there were easy-access hollowing and drainage hole options in both slicers.

Although both slicers were totally functional, I liked the auto-generated supports in Chitubox a little more. For the models I used, Tango’s auto-generated supports were far heavier than necessary. I don’t mind trimming slightly, but I would have needed to spend time fiddling with settings and regenerating the supports completely to get the effect I wanted.

I will say that the visible support rods in Chitubox’s edit mode makes it harder to manually edit the supports. It wasn’t a huge problem with the minimally-supported Mew model, but it was less than ideal.

In fact, the editing workflow in Voxelab Tango felt better overall when compared to Chitubox. There are more robust options for manual editing and it’s easier to access features like compensate Z, hollow, labeling, build orientation, and so on.

The supports in Tango’s edit mode are represented by blue circles, which you can drag or click on to remove. You can also click anywhere on the model to create a new support pillar. There is also a perforated raft by default, which was an option I couldn’t even find in Chitubox Basic.

Frankly, there are plenty of resin slicers out there and many of them can get the job done. A lot of it comes down to personal preference and what you usually need out of a slicer.

Final Thoughts on the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra

The Mars 4 Ultra is an amazing resin printer and stands out amongst other options because of its high resolution and brand-name quality. It’s especially great as an entry-level printer. Elegoo’s reliability, in-box supplies, and lifetime license for Voxelab Tango are all huge benefits for people just getting into the hobby.

At the same time, it has plenty to offer for more experienced or even professional users. It has more stable leveling and the addition of Wi-Fi to tip the scales away from the well-loved Mars 4. Large printers like those in the Elegoo Saturn series might be less accessible because of the sheer desk space they take up, while at the same time offering less quality.

Good budget resin printer overall

ELEGOO Mars 4 Ultra

4.2

Features:

• 7-Inch 9K High Resolution LCD
• Laser-carved Build Plate
• Open Space GOO Format
• Built-in 4G RAM
• Built-in Wi-Fi Connection & High-Speed Wifi Transfer
• 4-point Leveling System

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Especially if you swap out the ACF film with FEP, the Mars 4 Ultra holds its own or surpasses most other resin printers on the market. The one thing it doesn’t offer is a large volume– so if that’s important for you, it may not be quite right.

For everyone else, the Mars 4 Ultra shouldn’t let you down.

Related posts

• The Top Elegoo 3D Printers Now
• Elegoo Mars 2 Pro: Low Cost, Great Quality
• The Differences Between MSLA vs SLA

From its sleek design to its ultra-fast print speeds and excellent print quality, the AnkerMake M5C really does symbolize what we should all be expecting from 3D printers moving forward.

Since writing this review, AnkerMake have also gotten in touch and offered our readers a discount code, giving you $80 off if you click this link or on the product display below, and enter code: 3DSM5C.

Best Fast Low-Cost 3D Printer

AnkerMake M5C 3D Printer

4.6

$399.00

We also have an exclusive discount code: 3DSM5C.

Use this code and get $80 off!

Pros:

• Dizzyingly fast print speeds – it printed a Benchy accurately at 500mm/s
• Superb print quality, especially on my articulated dragon print
• Impressive all-round build quality
• Sophisticated, responsive, and useful mobile app
• Tinker-free bed leveling and printing
• Direct drive extruder is always nice to have

Cons:

• Missing SD Card slot
• Very loud operating noise levels. With noise-canceling headphones, I could still hear it from 20 feet away.
• No on-printer screen
• Strangely, it didn’t ship with any filament – not even a test sample
• Spool holder feels a bit flimsy to me

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The AnkerMake M5C is one of the best printers for beginners on the market today – and it’s also great for experienced makers who want to circumvent the tinkering and faff typically expected in this price range. 

In the super-fast 3D printer race, the AnkerMake M5C is cheaper than similar models like the Bambu Lab P1S and outclasses budget picks like the Elegoo Neptune with its feature set and better print quality. (For more on the Neptune, read our review of the Neptune 4 Max!)

However, the M5C’s closed system and the fact there are few upgrades means that modders and hands-on tinkerers may want to steer clear, instead favoring Anycubic or Creality’s fleet of mod-friendly printers.

The decision to forego an on-machine screen or SD Card slot will annoy some, as well as how loud the printer gets when at full pelt. It’s also not for you if you don’t like the idea of being forced to use an app (albeit an excellently designed one) to monitor and launch prints.

My AnkerMake M5C Review Summary

Here’s a quick rundown of the AnkerMake M5C’s pros and cons:

Pros:

• Dizzyingly fast print speeds – it printed a Benchy accurately at 500mm/s!!
• Superb print quality, especially on my articulated dragon print
• Impressive all-round build quality
• Sophisticated, responsive, and useful mobile app
• Tinker-free bed leveling and printing
• Direct drive extruder is always nice to have

Cons:

• Missing SD Card slot
• Very loud operating noise levels. With noise-canceling headphones, I could still hear it from 20 feet away.
• No on-printer screen
• Strangely, it didn’t ship with any filament – not even a test sample
• Spool holder feels a bit flimsy to me

Assembly and Setup

The AnkerMake M5C lands on your doorstep in a thick cardboard box, with all the parts housed in cutouts in chunky layers of foam to protect them during shipping. In my estimation, only the roughest journey is likely to damage the components.

A large sheet with setup instructions guides you through getting the AnkerMake M5C up and running in less than 15 minutes. A nice touch is the inclusion of a metallic tool case containing spanners, an Allen key, spare nozzle, and cutters, all of impressive quality.

The AnkerMake M5C comes more or less pre-assembled. There’s only the gantry to slide into the base, a few bolts to tighten, two wires to connect, and the filament holder to attach before the printer is ready for leveling and filament loading. 

It’s all extremely effortless and scanning the QR code on a label attached to the power supply cable takes you to several setup videos should you need them.

Bed Leveling and Filament Loading

The next step is to power up the printer and download the AnkerMake app. As mentioned above, there’s no on-printer screen and everything is controlled through either the app or over Wi-Fi using the AnkerMake Studio slicing software. 

Pairing the app with the printer is straightforward. After a firmware update, you’ll be prompted to level the bed. The AnkerMake M5C features a contact probe that pressure taps 49 points on the bed, taking about 10 minutes to complete. 

After warming up, the printer will do its thing with progress shown in real-time on the app, leaving with a perfectly leveled bed, which in my experience, required no Z-offset adjustments of any kind. As with most printers, leveling the bed after every couple prints is recommended for peace of mind.

Though the AnkerMake M5C includes a direct drive extruder, filament is fed from the spool holder to the print head via a strip of Bowden tubing. The filament is loaded into the Bowden tube and fed down to the print head. A tap of the Extrude button on the app, a squeeze of the lever on the print head, a gentle push, and the filament is loaded, ready for printing. 

Testing and Results

The AnkerMake app includes a growing library of pre-configured and pre-sliced models, from vases to articulated dragons, and even impressive 3D city maps.

Regardless of whether you use one of these or load your own model into AnkerMake Studio, the printer automatically weaves in a purging routine that wipes off any excess filament from the nozzle with a choreographed little dance on the side of the build plate.

This ensures the first layer is free of potentially print-ruining blobs and strings. While you can fashion a similar routine with other slicers and printers, the fact this is done automatically is another point for convenience. And, better yet, it works perfectly every time.

Test #1: 3DBenchy

First up, and a rite of passage for any factory-fresh printer, the 3DBenchy using PLA (the printer doesn’t come with any filament, not even a test strip, so factor that in when buying). 

Printed in a lightning-fast 17 minutes and pushing the M5C to speeds nearing 500 mm/s, the Benchy came out looking fantastic with next to no blemishes to speak of. This is a huge feat, given the printer is affordably priced and can print so fast. 

Honestly, firing up the printer for the first time and witnessing the speed at which the print head and build surface darted around was almost worrying, triggering worries that the printer was overexerting itself. 

But rest assured, it was working as designed and was nothing short of mesmerizing. A sign of things to come as the M5C’s first outing was nothing short of impressive.

Test #2: Big Eared Cat

Next, I printed a Big Eared Cat, another model from the app library, which has been optimized for fast mode printing, one of the three stripped-down basic settings options on the AnkerMake M5C. 

Again, speeds reached near 500 mm/s, finishing the print in just 26 minutes. Other than some blemishes, presumably caused by the lack of supports around the bottom of the head, the model quality matched that of the Benchy with clean layers and details.

Test #3: Hinged Miniature Skull

On to a bigger model and one to test out more conservative speeds, I dialed in a Hinged Miniature Skull model, again taken from the AnkerMake app. 

With speeds capped at 250 mm/s, the print time swelled to a more familiar 1 hour 15 minutes, but for a much larger model, this was still short compared to typical desktop FDM speeds. 

The articulated joints came out near pristine with very little in the way of unsightly artifacts or blemishes across the complex geometries of the model.

Test #4: Articulated Dragon

Wanting to test larger models at higher speeds, I next printed an articulated dragon that took up the majority of the M5C’s print surface. 

A little over 3 hours later and a notification on the app to confirm the print was finished, the dragon came off the plate with an impressive level of detail, smooth articulations, and only a small plastic build-up on the upper scales, which can easily be shaved off with some light post-processing.

Overall, I am VERY impressed.

AnkerMake M5C Design and Features

Before we dive in, here’s a quick look at the specs:

Build Quality and Design

From the moment I pulled the M5C out of its box, I was impressed with the build quality on offer here. It’s predominantly made of high-quality metal, which not only looks fantastic and gives the printer an alluring futuristic feel – and ensures it sits firmly on your desk even when running at speeds up to 500 mm/s.

It’s a big shift from the typical plastic printers in this price range. There’s a real sense that AnkerMake has spared no expense to produce a neat and stylish – yet also functional – printer from top to bottom. 

There are no errant wires. The compact frame won’t take over your bedroom or workshop. And, given how sharp it looks, it easily sits alongside home appliances without standing out as an eye sore.

I was also a big fan of the LED AnkerMake logo that shows a different color depending on the printer status. Visual queues help instill the sense of a stress-free, intuitive printing experience.

Build Volume and Print Surface

The build volume is as standard as it gets for FDM printers in this price range, matching the Ender 3 and Anycubic Kobra. 

The PEI-coated flexible build plate is absolutely fantastic, from the grippy coarse texture (I experienced zero first-layer adhesion issues) to the plastic guides mounted on the back of the heated bed to ensure it’s aligned perfectly (something I feel should come standard with all FDM printers of this size). 

Prints snap off with a gentle flex and the bobbly, coarse finish on the underside of prints is there but not unsightly as is common with PEI plates. The black color scheme means you can actually spot debris or oil on the surface, prompting you to wipe it clean with isopropyl before launching a print.

Spool Holder

My one real gripe with the design is the spool holder. 

Well, not so much the spool holder, but the plastic arm mounted on the top that holds the Bowden tube that feeds into the printhead assembly. 

It’s made of flimsy plastic, flexing as filament is fed into the tube, which had me worried on several occasions that it may snap. It’s a minor issue, but feels a little sour when compared to the thought put into the rest of the machine.

Filament Compatibility

Alongside the usual FDM quad of PLA, TPU, ABS, and PETG, the M5C is also equipped to handle fill-type filament, notably those with carbon fiber filling such as PLA-CF and PETG-CF. 

This is chiefly down to AnkerMake incorporating an all-metal hot end capable of pushing temperatures up to 300°C and a 35 mm³/s flow rate. The lack of an enclosure means that ABS performance will vary greatly depending on ambient temperatures, but nothing a DIY enclosure tent won’t solve.

One-Click Button

Though a nice visual addition to the printer, the One-Click Button felt quite gimmicky. You can pause and stop during prints, which is useful as a hands-on bit of functionality if you happen to misplace your phone mid-print. 

The pause function works a treat as I experienced when my spool got tangled midway through the large dragon print above, picking up where it left off with nasty filament build-up of stringing on the print. 

When idle, the button can perform various functions depending on the number of presses, such as bed leveling, homing, and re-printing the last printed model. 

But, given that for the majority of the time, you’ll launch prints from either the app or slicer, the button quickly becomes somewhat redundant even though you can customize what it does from a limited set of options.

Print Speed

While there’s a degree of marketing associated with boasts of blistering fast print speeds so is best to approach them with a degree of caution, the M5C caps out at 500 mm/s. 

However, remember: you won’t be completing a full print at this speed, as they’ll invariably fail. Instead well-sliced prints will vary speeds, pushing up to 500 mm/s when needed and then dropping back down. 

When the M5C does hit those speeds, it’s designed to dampen vibrations so that they don’t cause print errors, blemishes, or artifacts, and it printed consistently for me at these speeds.

Noise

Though it can be passed off as an unavoidable part of keeping the printer within safe operating temperatures when running such high print speeds, the AnkerMake M5C is one loud machine. 

This is mainly attributed to the fans, which whirr furiously throughout the printing process. With noise-canceling headphones, I could still hear them even though I was a good 20 feet from the printer.

The AnkerMake M5C also produces a huge amount of vibrations that, depending on when you decided to set it up, can run down table legs and into floors. If you have wooden floors, like I do, you’ll occasionally feel like the whole house is shaking. Again, mileage will vary here and I’d wager it’s a minor inconvenience given how excellent the M5C is otherwise. Just don’t plan on printing overnight if you live in a small apartment or have noise-sensitive people in the house.

Proprietary Nozzles

The AnkerMake M5C ships with a proprietary 0.4 mm brass nozzle with a 35 mm³/s flow rate. No complaints here as it’s a quality nozzle that works beautifully to pump out enough filament to keep up with high print speeds. 

The issue is when it comes to replacing the filament. The lack of standardized compatibility means you’ll need to buy directly from AnkerMake for around $20 for a ten-pack. This is a tad pricier than your typical nozzle, so factor this in when weighing up whether the M5C is right for you.

Software

There are two AnkerMake M5C software: the AnkerMake app, and AnkerMake Studio slicer. 

If we set inside the potentially thorny issue of forcing users onto an app and the absence of an on-printer screen, the app is well-designed, intuitive, and stacked with useful data and info about the printing process. You can launch prints, level the bed, home the printer, load filament, pause, stop, and adjust settings. It just works, and is a delight to use.

As for AnkerMake Studio, proprietary slicers are typically very hit-and-miss, with a lot more misses than hits. Fortunately, AnkerMake’s take is one of the good ones. Based on Cura, it features a neat, clean UI that won’t overwhelm first-timers, but hides all the granular settings and detail experienced makers will find joy tinkering. Retraction, print speeds, infill patterns, rafts, acceleration speed, supports – it’s all in there for those who want it. It’s also responsive and slicing is quick compared to Cura, for example.

When loading in a model, you’re given three base printing modes, each one containing pre-configured and pre-defined settings. The idea is to drastically simplify the slicing process for either beginners or those that want to get printing fast with more or less the best settings. They play into the ease of use of the M5C and from my experience, you could easily get away with using these for all your prints. They are that good. Here they are:

• Fast – Prioritizes speed over precision to deliver high acceleration and print speeds within the printer’s safe operating range.
• Normal – Maintains a balance between speed and precision. Prints will have a higher quality when finished.
• Precision – Prioritizes smoothness of the model surface, with more uniform layer heights between adjacent layers.

Over the course of the two weeks I spent with the M5C, AnkerMake Studio was updated twice, so it’s clearly being regularly and iteratively improved.

Final Thoughts on the AnkerMake M5C

Overall, the AnkerMake M5C is one of the most enjoyable printers I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing at 3DSourced. 

From the moment it arrived, I just knew this was one special printer and the more time I spent in its company, the more I fell for its many charms. The features set is impressive. The high-speed printing feels almost like cheating given the consistent quality. And, the ease of use is a standard more manufacturers should aspire to.

If you’re looking to buy your first printer and want a machine that blends sophistication with a simple, user-friendly workflow, you can’t go wrong with the AnkerMake M5C. It has its annoyances, but all printers do. For me, the M5C’s shortcomings are ones you can live with quite easily rather than the type that makes you regret your purchase.

Fastest Low-Cost 3D Printer

AnkerMake M5C 3D Printer

4.6

$399.00

We also have an exclusive discount code: 3DSM5C.

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Pros:

• Dizzyingly fast print speeds – it printed a Benchy accurately at 500mm/s
• Superb print quality, especially on my articulated dragon print
• Impressive all-round build quality
• Sophisticated, responsive, and useful mobile app
• Tinker-free bed leveling and printing
• Direct drive extruder is always nice to have

Cons:

• Missing SD Card slot
• Very loud operating noise levels. With noise-canceling headphones, I could still hear it from 20 feet away.
• No on-printer screen
• Strangely, it didn’t ship with any filament – not even a test sample
• Spool holder feels a bit flimsy to me

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And if you’re not sure whether the AnkerMake M5C is right for you, and want to see some other options, then I recommend some of these alternatives:

• Larger yet still fast 3D printer: Elegoo Neptune 4 Max (clicking this will open our hands-on review in a new tab)
• Our recommendations for the best fastest 3D printers
• The best cheap 3D printers

The Neptune 4 Max is made for all the 3D printing enthusiasts out there who want to own a large volume printer, without the high price they usually command.

In that regard, it does its job well. Elegoo made a few key improvements over the older Neptune 3 Max, especially in print speed. The pre-installed Klipper is the dark horse of the Neptune 4 Max.

All things considered, the Neptune 4 Max is a good deal at $470. The low cost, pre-assembly, and auto leveling makes it an appealing choice for beginners and casual hobbyists.

Let’s explore that and more in the rest of the review.

Great Large-Volume 3D Printer

Elegoo Neptune 4 Max

4.4

With a large 420x420x480mm build volume, integrated auto bed leveling, and fast print speeds enabled by Klipper, the Neptune 4 Max is an affordable option for hobbyists wanting to print big.

However, some tinkering is likely needed to get the best results.

Pros:

• High potential print speeds (pre-installed Klipper + good processor)
• Huge 420 x 420 x 480 mm build volume
• 121-point mesh auto-leveling
• Direct drive print head
• Huge toggleable fan

Cons:

• Likely to need tinkering to work properly
• Difficult to swap proprietary nozzle
• Few upgrades from the cheaper Neptune Max 3

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Elegoo Neptune 4 Max Review: Summary

Before we get into the finer details, let’s go over the main things you can expect from the Neptune 4 Max.

Pros

• High potential print speeds (pre-installed Klipper + good processor)
• Huge 420 x 420 x 480 mm build volume
• 121-point mesh auto-leveling
• Direct drive print head
• Huge toggleable fan 

Cons

• Likely to need tinkering to work properly
• Difficult to swap proprietary nozzle
• Few upgrades from the cheaper Neptune Max 3

Assembly and Setup

Assembly

The Neptune 4 Max, like other Neptune models, is very easy for even a complete beginner to assemble. It only takes 30 to 60 minutes to completely assemble it out of the box.

Most of the assembly time is just spent screwing parts together with Allen wrenches. Elegoo provides all the tools you need, and the instruction manual is easy to follow.

Oddly, the cable clip for the back of the extruder head is not included in the packing list. It’s visually shown being added in the first step, but isn’t numbered as it has no list number. Don’t forget it!

It took me about 45 minutes to assemble the printer from start to finish with only the tools provided in the box.

I realized later that the eccentric nuts holding the bed in place weren’t tightened properly. As is common with pre-assembled printers, they likely came loose with shipping.

It’s a quick adjustment, so make sure to check the stability of your bed before you move on. While you’re at it, remove the four plastic blocks Elegoo puts under the build plate for shipping stability.

Elegoo includes a list of potential issues that can happen during shipping and how to fix them— including the eccentric nuts coming loose.

It’s great to see Elegoo acknowledge those out-of-box problems, especially if the Neptune 4 Max is your first printer.  

Leveling

The initial leveling process might take longer than the assembly, but there is auto-leveling to help you along.

Start with the auxiliary leveling. Elegoo includes a yellow instruction paper that you can use as the A4 sheet, which is what I did. It’s best to screw or unscrew all of the knobs before leveling to a middle point, so they have room to move the plate up and down.

The printer will assist you by moving to each corner, corresponding to a number on the touch screen. You can then level using the knobs under the build plate.

Elegoo’s implied leveling order is to follow the numbers and go around the plate clockwise. Going diagonally might have some benefits since opposite corners directly work ‘against’ each other.

For example, instead of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, you would level in order of 1, 4, 3, 6, 2, 5. I would suggest doing the alternate order if you only are leveling once. However, this shouldn’t really matter if you go over the surface multiple times.

With such a large surface, minor leveling issues in one corner can have a drastic impact across the plate. I went over it 2 times manually before moving on to auto-leveling.

After all that, I decided the mesh results weren’t quite what I wanted and I ended up running one more auxiliary leveling. I wanted to get as close to flat as possible instead of relying on the auto-leveling mesh.

If you do this, remember to run the auto-leveling to update the mesh again at the end.

You can either set an experimental z-offset now, or leave it at 0 until you start your first print. Either way, you’ll need to set a z-offset to get good prints in most cases. 

This is all that’s necessary for setup— I’ll share my opinion on the leveling and auto leveling features as a whole in a future section.

Filament Loading

After leveling, you need to feed filament into the extruder head. Start by putting a filament spool on the spool holder and pulling down some filament.

I didn’t bother with cutting the filament at a 45 degree angle (although some people swear by it). I also didn’t need to straighten the end at all since it was straight enough to feed through the filament runout sensor. I used a new package of Elegoo’s Grey PLA.

Push the end of the filament through the filament runout sensor and pull it down into the top hole of the extruder head. Then, use the menu to select setup –> filament feeding. The extruder will pull the filament inside within moments, and you’re all set.

This took me only a couple of minutes to complete.

Testing & Results

Test #1: Elegoo Buddha

Elegoo includes a small spool of white PLA+ in the Neptune 4 Max’s package. It’s just slightly more than what is needed to print the Elegoo Buddha.

The iconic Buddha figure comes pre-loaded on the Neptune 4 Max’s USB.

In my case, I had the z-offset too high, so the filament wasn’t being pressed into the build plate properly. After a quick adjustment (eventually settling on -0.370 mm), the Buddha printed wonderfully.

Test #2: Benchy

Contrary to the smooth Buddha printing, my first Benchy went woefully wrong. It printed just fine at the start. But around halfway through, I suspect it detached itself from the plate slightly resulting in a dramatic layer shift.

I went ahead and checked over my belt tension, re-leveled the bed, and then increased the bed temperature to 65°C. The next Benchy was much cleaner. Not perfect, but certainly not a failure!

Test #3: David Head Planter Base

Although this planter base looks simple– and, well, it is simple– it took a couple spaghetti monsters to get it to print. It kept detaching itself from the bed part way through even after the first several layers had gone down perfectly.

After lots more re-leveling and wiping down the bed with IPA to no avail, I realized that my issue was a bed wobble. As happens with pre-assembled printers, the eccentric nuts that keep the bed in place must have shaken loose during transit.

In hindsight, I should have checked this when I first assembled the printer! Some of my earlier failed prints (and my need to frequently re-level the bed) could probably be attributed to the bed wobble, too.

You can quickly fix it by using the supplied wrench to tighten the eccentric nuts. They are located underneath the printer on the right side. Slowly turn each nut while periodically giving the plate a gentle wiggle to find the sweet spot.

The other issue I had was blobs or ‘zits’ on the surface of the print. Zits can really marr the surface of any decorative print and are annoying to diagnose, since there are so many causes of zits when 3D printing.

Since it’s a curved object that I lazily upscaled in Elegoo Cura, I suspect that these were caused by the printer stalling rather than an extrusion or filament problem. Power loss recovery can slow down how fast the printer can read commands since it forces regular SD card writes.

I went ahead and turned it off (which is very easy to do through the settings menu) just in case that was causing my problem. I also reduced the print speed slightly.

The base is not visible in the final design, leading me to stick with what I had rather than trying a reprint.

Test #4: David Head Planter

At long last, I printed the giant David head to finish off my planter. It didn’t quite max out the build volume, but it did get close.

The details in the final print were impressive. I realized that with these larger decorative objects, layer lines are significantly less visible because we tend to view them from further away. I think you could get some insane results with an even more detailed bust model.

There were still a couple ‘zits’ on one of his cheeks, but they weren’t very noticeable. I plan on cleaning up the overhang of his hair above his face as it is the messiest part. Overall, I consider this print a resounding success.

Clearly, the Neptune 4 Max can create some beautiful pieces. The possibility for life-size busts, cosplay, and similar large-scale prints is amazing – but make no mistake, it isn’t perfect. The guesswork and tinkering could easily be an issue if you have limited time, limited patience, or limited experience.

I’ll cover the main design and features of the printer, and then I’ll give you my final verdict.

Design & Features

Frame & Form

The Neptune 4 Max has the same sleek appearance that other Elegoo Neptune machines have. So, what sets it apart?

The large print volume of 420 x 420 x 480mm is the main selling point. Interestingly, this is about the same as the Neptune 3 Max that it is meant to replace. The 4 Max is actually shorter by a couple centimeters to make room for the huge horizontal fan.

Another point of comparison between the Neptune 3 and Neptune 4 is the limit switch question. The Neptune 3 Max uses limit switches to keep the bed from moving too far in either direction. In contrast, the Neptune 4 Max has no switches and instead makes use of 2209 silent drivers with centerless homing.

I’m not sure why Elegoo chose to go in this direction. The only real benefit is that you don’t need wired endstops with centerless homing, and it’s up to debate whether that matters to you or not.

Unfortunately, there is a widespread issue where the printer attempts to go beyond the limits of the build plate while homing. This causes a loud, grating sound every time you need to home your printer.

Elegoo has said that it’s a problem with the firmware and released an update. This might fix your issue, you might experience no issue in the first place, or you might continue to experience that annoying grinding.

In my case, it went from happening every time to never happening over the course of printing and tuning the machine. I suspect tightening the belt helped the most, but it didn’t go away completely until later on. I never installed the firmware update.

It’s outfitted with support bars on either side to keep the frame stable, and dual z steppers with a timing belt.

Textured PEI Build Plate

The Elegoo Neptune 4 Max is equipped with a textured PEI build plate, just like its predecessors. It can be heated to a maximum of 110°C.

As you might have noticed in the testing section, all of the files I printed were well-optimized and only used a small brim. Realistically, any adhesion issues with easier filaments will be due to incorrect assembly or settings issues.

In Test #1, I didn’t have proper adhesion because I hadn’t set an ideal z-offset. In Test #3, I needed to fix the bed wobble and re-level the printer. The takeaway? PEI is not a cure-all for user error!

One very real downside of the Neptune’s PEI sheet is that there is no edge around the build plate. It’s a pain to put the flex plate back after removing it because you have to carefully line it up by eye.

That being said, there is rarely going to be a reason to remove it in the first place. All of my prints popped off easily using the plastic scraper— even when I waited no more than 1-2 minutes for the print to cool down.

Your mileage with bed adhesion and release may vary depending on the print, your setup, and what filament you’re using.

Auto Bed-Leveling

The Neptune 4 Max has an inductive sensor that it uses to probe the bed, creating a 121-point mesh.

As I mentioned before, you need to level the bed manually — preferably a couple times — before going in with the auto leveling. It only takes around 10 – 15 minutes and you don’t need to be present unless you want to be.

Once finished, you’ll be given this handy graph which represents how level the plate is. You can use it to quickly identify issues in your manual leveling efforts or even in the bed itself.

Positive numbers mean your bed is higher in that area, and vice versa for negative numbers. The closer to 0, the better! But don’t despair, because the printer should be able to compensate for anything better than +-0.25.

I prefer an inductive sensor as opposed to a mechanical one because it tends to be more reliable. The caveat is that it is only reliable when you’re still using the same metal plate. If you wanted to swap the plate, for whatever reason, it would no longer work.

For those of you who prefer and swear by a glass build plate, trying to add one to the Neptune 4 Max is probably more effort than it’s worth.

Personally, I was happy with the auto leveling and found the mesh bed to be beyond helpful for leveling and troubleshooting problems.

Electronics

The Neptune 4 Max’s processor is a 64-bit 1.5G quad-core, and it’s part of why Elegoo can advertise print speeds of up to 500mm/s. Another part of that reason is Klipper– I’ll elaborate on that further down.

Aside from the processor, the 4 Max had a couple quality of life features that I thoroughly enjoyed. There are two lights you can use to monitor your prints. One is inside of the print head, and the other is a bigger light attached horizontally on the frame.

You can turn them both on and off while printing, or outside of printing from the main menu. The print head’s light was especially useful for me since I could monitor the first layers of small prints easily.

The Neptune 4 Max also has a detachable touch screen, connected telephone-cord style. I can imagine this being useful if you ever wanted to add an enclosure or partial enclosure. For me, it just felt nicer to bring it close to my face while I changed settings or monitored a print.

Finally, there is a small filament runout sensor attached to the top of the printer.

I’m certainly not mad that they included one. I think it’s a foregone conclusion on newer 3D printers. However, I do wish it weren’t quite so high up considering the giant z-axis of the printer. If you’re printing something vertically flat, then the sensor will detect a ‘runout’ far before you actually are out of filament

Wi-Fi Connectivity

The Neptune 4 Max has Wi-Fi connectivity, a helpful and easy to use feature that is a straight upgrade from previous Neptune 3 models. All you need to do is navigate to the Wi-Fi option using the touchscreen and select your network. Then, make sure you’ve added the network printer on your slicer and you’re all set.

The Wi-Fi connection was a bigger deal than I initially thought. Since my computer is in a different room from my printer setup, it saves a lot of time. This is doubly true while you’re trying to slightly tune settings in your slicer!

Print Head

The print head on the Neptune 4 Max is a compact direct drive, with a proprietary hot end, inductive sensor, and a large fan in the back.

Let’s start with the hot end. Out of box, you will get a 0.4mm spare hot end and one already installed in the print head. It has a maximum temperature of 300°C.

That’s fine and all for people who never want to increase the nozzle size. Everyone else is out of luck, at least for now. Elegoo currently offers no options for different nozzle sizes that work with the Neptune 4 Max.

The current lack of customizability strikes me as odd, considering the selling point of the printer is build volume. Want to swap to a bigger nozzle so you can complete those huge prints faster? You’ll have to wait until Elegoo stocks larger sizes of the proprietary nozzle that they’ve forced you to use.

Another concern is how hard it is to reach the nozzle. It takes a lot of effort to take apart both the extruder and hot end component, and that’s exactly what you need to do. If you have clogging issues with the Neptune 4 Max, it’s going to be even harder to fix it.

As for the inductive sensor, I liked how easy it was to find and troubleshoot. Sadly, this is only relevant because I had issues with the sensor in the first place.

The lovely inductive sensor is what keeps the hot end from ramming into the plate at any given moment. Somewhere along the way, mine stopped working.

You can troubleshoot it by carefully opening up your extruder head. The sensor is located in the back left and has a faint red glow.

Pick up the build plate and carefully move it under the sensor. You might have to maneuver it up and down a couple times to get it right. The red light will turn off whenever the sensor detects something.

If it’s working, check the connections between the sensor and the rest of the machine. Be very careful not to wiggle the wires back and forth while pulling them out or pushing them back in. The plastic casing is brittle and easy to damage.

For me, the fix was gently pushing the plugs to make sure they were secure and the sensor downwards in case it was out of place.

If the sensor isn’t working, then you might have a bigger issue on your hands. I would suggest contacting Elegoo (they have solid customer service) and checking out their Discord or other community channels before proceeding.

Firmware: Klipper

Klipper is the hidden secret weapon of the Neptune 4 Max. It comes pre-installed, removing the difficulty of making the switch from Marlin to Klipper.

You realistically won’t notice Klipper until you’re trying to make config changes and really fine tune your machine. If you do go down that route, there will be no more reflashing Marlin for every single change you make, for instance.

Klipper also has some added quality for high-speed printing. Unlike Marlin, which only runs on the motherboard, it uses a combination of a motherboard and an external computer to run g-code. The (oversimplified) result is faster printing as it can run g-code much faster. Plus, you will be able to use features like Input Shaping that help retain quality at faster speeds. 

Software: Elegoo Cura

Elegoo Cura comes preloaded on the USB stick, and that’s what I used for every test print in this review. 

It’s the default, plug-and-play option since you can just select the premade profile and get started. Especially if you’re not using any supports, Elegoo Cura should work fine and is the most beginner-friendly option.

But if you’re consistently having issues that can’t obviously be traced to something else, you might want to swap your slicer. Orca Slicer or Prusa Slicer are both good options. Orca even has a profile for the Neptune 4 Max– no manual porting required.

Final Thoughts on the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max

Ultimately, the Neptune 4 Max is a solid option if you want to experiment with Klipper and printing fast at a large scale. I personally enjoyed working with the printer and I’m beyond excited to continue printing massive builds with it!

It offers Klipper, and one of the largest build sizes on the market, for a relatively low cost. 

Great Large-Volume 3D Printer

Elegoo Neptune 4 Max

4.4

Pros:

• High potential print speeds (pre-installed Klipper + good processor)
• Huge 420 x 420 x 480 mm build volume
• 121-point mesh auto-leveling
• Direct drive print head
• Huge toggleable fan

Cons:

• Likely to need tinkering to work properly
• Difficult to swap proprietary nozzle
• Few upgrades from the cheaper Neptune Max 3

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However, if you’re not able to dedicate the time and energy to troubleshooting, then buying a Neptune 4 Max is taking a risk.

Therefore, if you’re a beginner or casual hobbyist, it’s probably not worth the hassle or the headache if things do go wrong.

At times, the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max feels more like an impromptu engineering project and a rushed attempt to keep up with the FDM market than a serious upgrade to the Neptune 3 Max.

But for the price, and the quality of large prints I managed to print, I was impressed with it overall. There are few printers as large as this that can manage this quality at this size, that retail at this price.

Overall, Sunlu Recycled PLA is a great option for eco-conscious makers looking for an easy printing experience without sacrificing strength. 

The recycled PLA filaments are surprisingly strong, making them great for printing household items like utensil organizers and certain functional models, such as small gears.

However, one problem I had with Sunlu Recycled PLA was the filaments’ hygroscopy. The filaments absorbed moisture from the air like a sponge, and I started to notice moisture-related print quality issues after leaving the filament in the open air for just a few days.

Regardless, Sunlu Recycled PLA is still a terrific filament option, and I’ll definitely be back for more. So keep reading if you want to learn more about this eco-friendly filament!

Sunlu Recycled PLA: Summary

Below, I’ve provided a quick run-down of Sunlu Recycled PLA.

Pros

• Easy to print: Not very sensitive to slicer settings
• Comes in a handful of colors
• Performs great with small layer heights
• Not very hygroscopic (drying is optional)
• Very durable (high tensile strength and elongation)

Cons

• Not truly recycled (just repurposed waste)
• Poor performance with larger layer heights
• Low-quality overhangs
• Stringing is prevalent for higher printing temperatures

Background: What Is Recycled Filament?

Before we enter the bulk of this review, it’s important to understand what recycled filament is exactly.

Generally, the term “recycled filament” refers to 3D printing filament that’s been sourced from the industrial scraps of a manufacturer’s regular filament production process.

Moreover, filament manufacturers usually end up with a lot of excess raw materials that don’t meet the manufacturer’s quality standards. This scrap material is separated from the rest of the raw materials and usually ends up in a landfill. 

However, some companies, like Sunlu, collect the scrap and use it to produce “recycled” filament, which they sell at a steep discount.

So, no, recycled filament is not actually made from recycled goods like thrown-out plastic bottles. However, recycled filament still can be considered eco-friendly as its purpose is to prevent unnecessary landfill waste.

Finally, before I get into the testing process, it’s worth noting that this review article encompasses three different variations of Sunlu Recycled PLA, including the standard option, PLA-Meta, and PLA-Matte. While each of these variations differ slightly in their properties (e.g. surface finish, print settings), they are all similar enough to compare side-by-side.

Testing & Results

The best way to evaluate a 3D printing filament is to test it! And that’s exactly what I did!

After a few initial prints to make sure the filament was actually usable, I printed 5 different models in Sunlu Recycled PLA and recorded the results in the subsections below. Each model is meant to test the filament in a different way, like the strength, accuracy, overhang quality, and more.

Keep in mind that the quality of these prints depends on many factors besides just the filament material. I did my best to keep the printing conditions consistent, and I printed all of the models on the same Creality Ender 5 S1.

Now let’s get into it!

Test #1: 3DBenchy

My first print, like always, was a standard 3DBenchy. I printed the model using Cura’s default “Standard” profile, with the only change being lowering the nozzle temperature to 190 °C.

As you can see, the print turned out terrific! Even the letters on the bottom of the model came out looking pristine, though it might be difficult to see it in the images. And the overhangs also look very nice with no drooping or sagging in sight.

Of course, it’s not perfect. There are some signs of stringing (due to the printer) and even a hint of stringing, but for the first attempt, I couldn’t ask for better. 

Printing specifications:

• Layer height: 0.2 Mm
• Nozzle temperature: 190 °C
• Print time: X minutes

Test #2: Temperature Tower

My second test print was this temperature tower, which I used to determine the best printing temperature for Sunlu Recycled PLA filament. To do this, I sliced the model using Cura using G-code modifications that change the temperature at each distinct block.

As you can see, the best temperature for printing this recycled PLA filament is between 190-195 °C, which is about average for a PLA filament, if not on the lower side.

However, it’s important to note that the true best printing temperature will depend on the model you’re printing. For example, if you’re printing a phone case and it needs to be strong, you should use a higher nozzle temperature, like 210 °C. Even though this high temperature will likely cause stringing and over-extrusion on your print, it will create a much stronger and less brittle print because more heat means stronger layer-to-layer bonds.

Conversely, if you’re printing a detailed model that doesn’t need to be strong, a slightly lower temperature, like 185-190 °C, might yield the best results.

Printing specifications:

• Layer height: 0.2 Mm
• Nozzle temperature: 175-220 °C
• Print time: X minutes

Test #3: Hexagonal vase

My third test print was this hexagonal vase, which I like to use for testing performance with large layer heights and vase mode. Moreover, I sliced the model with a 0.28-mm layer height and used Cura’s vase model (“Spiralize Outer Contour”), but the results I got were not exactly what I expected.

First off, the use of a larger layer height sped up print time dramatically. The entire model took under 2 hours to print, which is unachievable using a normal layer height (e.g. 0.2 mm), where it might take 2.5-4 hours.

While the speed was there, the quality of the print was lacking significantly. The larger layers struggled to adequately bond and, as you can see, some sections show some obvious layer sagging. These problems are likely a result of using such a low nozzle temperature (195 °C) and minimal cooling, but some of the blame definitely goes to the material itself.

I also printed the model in a smaller, 0.24-mm layer height and faced basically the same problems. Because of this, I don’t recommend going above 0.2 mm for the layer height when printing Sunlu Recycled PLA filament.

Printing specifications:

• Layer height: 0.28 Mm
• Nozzle temperature: 195 °C
• Print time: 1 hour 47 minutes

Test #4: Gear Fidget

My fourth test print was a 4-piece gear fidget, which I found on Printables and loved at first sight. The mechanism comprises four 3D prints (two sets of 2 models), which fit together without any real assembly.

Printing all of the pieces at once took just over 4 hours, and I loved the results. The main reason I chose this model was to see how the material handled more precise geometries, and I used a 0.16-mm layer height to test this.

The gear pieces came out beautifully, and while the frame parts had a lot of stringing, I was using a higher-than-normal printing temperature, which was likely the culprit of this problem. 

I also tested the strength of the material using this model, which I’ll talk more about later, but it definitely passed my test.

We also have an article on other 3D printable gears for more project options.

Printing specifications:

• Layer height: 0.16 Mm
• Nozzle temperature: 215 °C
• Print time: 4 hours 9 minutes

Test #5: Simple Hinge

Lastly, I printed a simple hinge in Sunlu Recycled PLA to test how the material handled print-in-place mechanisms. And, further improving my impression of the material, the hinge functioned right off the print bed.

Besides the internal mechanism, the hinge has a very simple design, so it also didn’t surprise me when it came out looking as clean as could be. Overall, a successful test to say the least!

Printing specifications:

• Layer height: 0.2 Mm
• Nozzle temperature: 195 °C
• Print time: 59 minutes

Material Properties & Findings

Using the test print results and my other first-hand observations, I’ve made a few conclusions about Sunlu Recycled PLA and its properties. I’ve organized these insights in the subsections below.

Strength & Elongation

PLA is generally considered a very weak and brittle filament material, and PLA 3D prints tend to break very easily when pulled apart. However, the strength of the prints made with Sunlu Recycled PLA took me by surprise.

Specifically, I’m speaking about tensile strength and elongation of the filament, which are two similar measures of how much you can pull an object apart before it breaks.

I tested my theory by trying to pull the gear fidget (test print #4) apart to see if the frame piece would break as I expected. But, instead, the part stretched a noticeable amount and then recompressed once I stopped pulling, indicating this material has a high elongation at break.

So, though PLA filament isn’t recommended for printing functional, high-strength models, I’d say Sunlu’s Recycled PLA is an exception as it’s very durable.

Stringing Issues

One recurring issue I faced when printing Sunlu Recycled PLA was stringing. Stringing not only hurts the visual aesthetic of your model but it also affects the dimensional accuracy, as those small whisps of excess plastic alter the exact size of your model. 

I was able to eventually handle the stringing problem, but I had to significantly lower the nozzle temperature, and this, unfortunately, worsened the strength of prints due to weaker layer-to-layer bonds. Moreover, when printing at higher temperatures, like 220 °C, stringing was prevalent, but dropping to 190-195 °C almost completely fixed the problem.

Poor Overhangs

Next, I want to point out that this set of PLA filaments struggled a bit when faced with overhangs. While it wouldn’t be fair to blame all of the overhang issues on the filament itself, I was able to achieve much better overhangs using the same slicer settings with other filament materials.

Because of this property, you should consider activating supports for prints with even small overhangs to ensure the print doesn’t fail when using this filament. Increasing your printer’s cooling settings (e.g. fan speed) can also help with printing overhangs.

Easy to Print

Finally, I’d like to point out that Sunlu Recycled PLA is relatively easy to print. In other words, the material isn’t hyper-sensitive to the slicer settings, so you can achieve decent 3D prints without spending hours and hours tuning your settings.

My first print was very impressive given that I used the default Cura settings for PLA, and they only got better as I continued adjusting my settings.

Optimal Print Settings

As with any 3D printing filament, it’s unlikely that you’ll achieve perfect prints using your slicer’s default settings. Luckily, I already spent over 3 hours analyzing prints and trying new settings so you don’t have to. 

I’ve listed the optimal print settings for Sunlu’s recycled PLA filament in the bullet points below:

• Nozzle Temperature: 195 °C
• Bed Temperature: 60 °C
• Layer Height: 0.2 mm
• Print Speed: 60 mm/s
• Infill Density: 10-20%
• Infill Pattern: Cubic (any will work)
• Retraction Length: 5.2 mm (and 2.1 mm for direct drive printers)
• Retraction Speed: 45-50 mm/s (depending on stringing)

Of course, the quality of your prints isn’t only dependent on the slicer settings so don’t worry if these settings don’t produce the results you’re looking for right off the bat. You’ll likely have to tune your slicer on your own a little bit, but, hopefully, these settings are a good starting point.

Happy printing!

Over the past few days, I’ve been hands-on with the upcoming Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer (AKA the “FilaDryer”), and have absolutely loved it!

This behemoth of a filament dryer can store and actively dry up to four 1kg spools of filament at once, making it a great option for enthusiasts like myself who are constantly switching filaments. 

Plus, the S4 FilaDryer is capable of drying practically any filament material from PLA to PC, so it’s versatile for both hobbyists and professional makers.

Overall, the Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer is easily the most well-designed filament dryer I’ve ever worked with, and it makes my life much easier when dealing with different filaments.

Keep reading to learn more about this device, its specs, features, and more about why I think it’s one of the best filament dryers!

Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer Summary

Below, I’ve summarized the strengths and weaknesses of the Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer based on my testing experience.

It’s worth noting that the Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer isn’t officially released yet, and it’s launching as a Kickstarter campaign. As such, keep in mind that the product I reviewed is technically a pre-production unit so the quality and features might slightly differ from the final version of the product.

Pros

• Can store and dry up to four 1kg spools at once
• Great air circulation to help evenly dry all filaments
• Relatively fast heating process
• Compatible with all consumer-grade filament materials (PLA to PC)
• Clean and modern look
• PTFE tubing included
• Touchscreen LCD makes using the device fun

Cons

• Doesn’t come with silica gel packets
• Confusing LCD interface
• LCD is positioned slightly too high (cropped view)
• Risks associated with Kickstarter campaigns

Assembly & Setup

Setting up the Sunlu S4 FilaDryer couldn’t have been easier! The device was well-packaged and came entirely pre-assembled, alongside some PTFE tubing and a tutorial pamphlet.

To set up the S4 Filament Dryer, all you have to do is remove a few pieces of tape from the inside, insert the power cable, and flip the switch to turn it on! 

After that, push the mechanical button on the top of the box and swing open the respective flap door to load your filament spools into the drying chamber.

And, if you plan on using your filament while it’s inside the dry box (I recommend this), make sure to insert some PTFE tubing into one of the built-in PTFE couplers so the filament stays dry when moving from the dry box to the extruder.

All in all, setting up the Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes!

Design & Features

During my intensive testing process with the Sunlu S4 FilaDryer, I noticed a few important features, which I’ve described in the sections below:

Large Drying Chamber

Easily the most noteworthy feature of the Sunlu S4 is its massive drying chamber. There’s enough space in the S4 to store and dry four 1kg spools of filament at the same time. This is very unique as most, if not all, other filament dryers can only hold one or two spools.

With this much space, the Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer is naturally a great option for advanced and professional makers who work with multiple filaments and printers on a daily basis.

Efficient Drying

Obviously, the most important function of a filament dryer is to dry the stored filament. The main way filament dryers, like the S4 FilaDryer, do this is by heating the ambient air in the drying chamber. The warm air helps extract the moisture from the filament material, restoring its printing performance to some degree.

The Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer is equipped with not one, not two, but three heater fans! This helps ensure that the hot air is circulating the entire drying chamber so that all of the filament spools are evenly dried. Sunlu also points out that the S4 heats up twice as fast as the previous version of the Sunlu FilaDryer.

On top of its heating capabilities, the S4 FilaDryer is also equipped with a humidity sensor, which displays the humidity percentage of the chamber on the LCD.

I suggest setting the S4 Filament Dryer to MO2 (mode 2) so that the device automatically begins drying the filament when the humidity rises above 50%.

Additionally, the S4 FilaBox has two small storage spaces meant for placing silica gel packets, which remove moisture from the air. 

Unfortunately, my FilaDryer did not come with these, which I find odd given that they are very cheap. But, hopefully, by the time the product is publicly released, Sunlu will step it up and give buyers some silica gel to use.

Confusing LCD Interface

While the touchscreen LCD on the Sunlu S4 FilaDryer works perfectly, the user interface that it runs is poorly designed and makes using the device a bit confusing.

The LCD interface has four different buttons, including an up and down button, a power button, and a “Set” button. You can use the buttons together to control numerous aspects of the filament dryer, like its target temperature, drying time, drying mode, LED color, and more.

I first tried to use the interface without looking at the tutorial pamphlet but was forced to retreat as the UI is anything but intuitive. As such, make sure you review the included pamphlet to learn what each button and icon means on the LCD interface.

Wide Material Compatibility

Next, this filament dryer is capable of drying a wide variety of 3D printing filament materials. 

The Sunlu S4 can achieve ambient chamber temperatures between 35 and 70 °C, making it compatible with just about every common filament material, including PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, PC, and PA.

For reference, filament materials with a lower melting point, like PLA and TPU, should be dried with lower ambient temperatures and for shorter periods of time. Conversely, higher-temperature materials, like PC and ABS, should be dried for longer under higher temperatures.

Luckily, the S4 FilaDryer has pre-made drying profiles for all the common filament materials, so you don’t have to come up with your own drying temperature and time. 

But, if you want to manually set the temperature and time, feel free to check out our guide all about how to dry filament to learn the best drying configurations for different materials.

Sleek Design

Lastly, I can’t call this review complete without commenting on the S4 FilaDryer’s sleek and modern design.

Unlike some other 3D printing products, the Sunlu S4 doesn’t look like a cheap product. The dryer box is almost all black and perfectly rectangular, with no crazy cables or protruding features that might give the product a messier visual aesthetic.

Plus, the S4 dryer box has a built-in LED light bar that shines green if you activate it (through the LCD interface), further adding to the device’s modern appeal.

So, if keeping your 3D printer room looking nice and clean is important to you, I’m confident the Sunlu S4 FilaDryer will leave you more than satisfied.

Final Thoughts on the Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer

After my hands-on review of the Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer, I can confidently recommend this product.

With enough space to comfortably store four spools of filament, the S4 FilaDryer is a great solution for advanced users who use multiple FDM printers with numerous filament spools. You won’t have to decide which filament you want to keep dry when you’ve got the S4 because you can dry them all dry, simultaneously.

And, though using the device might seem daunting at first, the well-balanced and rather speedy heating system of the S4 more than makes up for it. Plus, the Sunlu S4 Filament Dryer has an outstanding design and style that will make the device a visually pleasing addition to any 3D printer setup.

Happy printing (or drying)!

The Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 is an excellent choice for makers interested in rapid prototyping or for advanced filaments like ABS or PC.

The X-Plus 3 has a very professional design, and its features have been optimized to handle higher-grade filament materials with incredible speed.

Overall, I loved the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3, and for under $800, I’d say this printer is a bargain given how much print space and professional-grade features it offers. Keep reading to learn more about the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3!

Ideal for High Temperature Filaments

QIDI Tech X-PLUS 3

4.5

$799.00 $699.00

The Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 is an excellent choice for makers interested in rapid prototyping or who want to try out advanced filament materials like ABS or PC.

Moreover, the X-Plus 3 has a very professional design, and its features have been optimized to handle higher-grade filament materials with incredible speed.

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Of course, no printer is without its flaws, and the X-Plus 3 has its fair share of issues. A few problems I ran into during my intensive 50-hour testing process included firmware bugs, temperature inconsistencies, and an oddly placed door hinge. But we’ll get to that later.

Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 Review: Summary

Here’s a quick rundown of the Qidi Tech X-Plus, divided into pros and cons.

Pros

• Can handle extreme print speeds (thanks to Klipper)
• Clean look with impressive cable management
• Built-in enclosure that doesn’t obstruct visibility (multiple access points with an LED light)
• Large 280 x 280 x 270 mm build volume
• Reliable automatic bed leveling
• Very easy to load filament into the extruder
• Compact direct drive printhead

Cons

• Swapping hot ends isn’t very simple
• Touchscreen LCD is difficult to use
• Chunky user interface
• Extremely limited internet capabilities
• Noticeably loud when printing at high speeds

Assembly & Setup

The Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 ships in a massive box, and, from personal experience, it’s quite a carry from your front door to your basement printing room.

But, after you move it, setting up the machine is fairly simple.

Similar to many budget machines (like the Creality Ender 3), the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 comes almost entirely in one piece, making assembly a breeze.

The only parts not already attached to the printer are the spool holder, filament dryer, and the top enclosure piece. Once you put those pieces into place, all that’s left is cutting a few zip-ties and removing a few pieces of packing foam.

But, before you turn the printer on, check that the voltages of the printer’s power supply units (PSUs) match your country’s standard.

For the United States, this is 115V (or 110V). Unfortunately, the placement of the PSUs on the bottom of the printer is pretty poor, so checking and changing the voltage switch is tricky and might require your phone flashlight.

After that, plug in that power connector and flip the switch to turn on the printer! After a few seconds, the LCD interface will guide you through the remaining steps of the setup process, including removing four small screws and removing one hidden piece of foam.

Overall, the assembly is pretty easy and shouldn’t take more than an hour. And, if you’ve ever set up a 3D printer before, the total setup time will easily be under 30 minutes.

Testing & Results

No printer review is complete without at least a few test prints. And, boy, did I print more than a few on the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3! I started with a 3DBenchy but got carried away printing Snorlax after Snorlax before I moved on to a few more complicated prints.

In the sections below, I’ll go over each of the test prints and provide some pictures. I’ll also make sure to link to the exact model if you’re interested in printing one as well.

Test #1: 3DBenchy

The first print I made on the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 was the standard 3DBenchy. I didn’t even have to slice the model because a pre-sliced G-code file was included in the printer’s USB drive, and tuned around the included filament spool.

And, to no surprise, the model came out near-perfect, with impressive detail and precision.

But the most surprising part of the print wasn’t its quality, but its print time.

While my other printers take a little over an hour to produce a decent-quality 3DBenchy, the X-Plus 3 took just 17 minutes! And, if that’s not impressive, then I don’t know what is!

This level of speed is unlike any other printer I’ve found and is undoubtedly a result of the machine’s use of Klipper along with its CoreXY motion system.

Test #2: Low-Poly Snorlax

My next model to test was this low-poly Snorlax, which I love to use for testing large layer heights. Unlike the previous model, I manually sliced this model in Qidi Slicer, and I made sure to keep all of the default settings, except for the layer height which I increased to 0.25 mm.

The results were better than I could’ve imagined. The large layer height looks immaculate on the model, and each layer is perfectly extruded.

Plus, the model took only 48 minutes to print, while being significantly larger than the 3DBenchy.

Test #3: Knurled Screw Bottle

My third test print was this two-piece knurled screw bottle. While I tested a large layer height with the previous model, I used a smaller 0.16-mm layer height to print this model. And it worked perfectly!

The model looked spectacular right off the print bed, and the screw threads worked without any complications. I loved it so much that I actually printed it again!

And, similar to the previous models, the print was also very fast, taking less than 2 hours for both pieces.

Test #4: Foldable Book Stand

My fourth and final test print was this large foldable book stand. While the X-Plus 3 took on the three previous models with ease, it definitely stumbled with this one. Moreover, the bookstand showed a lot of under-extrusion and layer separations, along with a plethora of other print quality issues like ringing and stringing.

But the silver lining was that all of the print-in-place mechanical features on the model functioned properly.

And, to be fair, I can’t blame the printer entirely. Not only was the model large and complex, but I was using a new filament spool that I had never tested before.

Design & Features

I had the chance to give the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 a proper test drive and tried out all of its features. Here are my findings:

Frame

The Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 follows an inverse Cartesian frame style and utilizes a CoreXY motion system. In simpler terms, the printhead assembly (containing the nozzle) moves fluidly across the X/Y plane using a series of interconnected belts, while the print bed moves up and down across the Z-axis. 

This more complex motion system helps the printer achieve more accurate printhead positioning and faster print speeds, leading to higher-quality prints.

It’s also worth noting that the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 has 280 x 280 x 270 mm of usable print space. This is noticeably more volume than most consumer-grade printers, so you’ll be able to print some larger items like cosplay props and large household accessories.

Enclosure

One of the most notable features of the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 is its built-in enclosure. The enclosure is made up of transparent acrylic panels that go around the sides and top of the printer. The panels are transparent so you can look into the print space without letting out the heat.

On this note, the main purpose of the enclosure is to trap heat around the print space to allow you to print higher-temperature filament materials like ABS, ASA, and PC. Because of this, the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 is a terrific enclosed 3D printer for anyone looking to print functional and mechanical-grade models.

Additionally, you can access the inside of the printer to remove models by either opening the hinged door or removing the top section of the enclosure.

Klipper Firmware

One of the most modern elements of the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 is its use of Klipper firmware. For reference, Klipper is a special type of firmware that uses both a motherboard and a computer (rather than solely a motherboard) to process G-code more efficiently. And when the G-code is processed faster, the 3D printer can print the model faster.

How fast? Well, without any changes to the settings, the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 completed a 3DBenchy in just 17 minutes. For comparison, many of my other printers (such as my Ender 3) take between 1 and 2 hours to print a 3DBenchy.

So, if speed is your concern, then you won’t have to worry about the X-Plus 3.

Auto Bed Leveling

Auto bed leveling, or ABL for short, is one of the most increasingly popular features for budget 3D printers. And Qidi did an excellent job implementing ABL technology into the X-Plus 3.

The printer has a very precise and accurate ABL sensor, mounted right next to the nozzle to take measurements. You can run a bed leveling sequence from the printer’s LCD, and you even have the option to automatically run one before every print job.

Personally, I don’t do this because each ABL sequence takes a few minutes, but you might be interested in the feature if you hate first-layer issues.

Additionally, you can also control the Z-offset in the printer’s LCD and all changes are made in real-time, so you can adjust the offset both before and during a print job to achieve the best first-layer results.

Electronics

The Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 has a plethora of note-worthy electronic features, so I thought it best to include them all under one section.

First off, the X-Plus 3 features a touchscreen, full-color LCD with a custom graphical user interface (GUI). Touchscreen LCDs are nothing new, and many budget printers have them nowadays, so I was a bit saddened when the LCD wouldn’t always respond to my fingers.

Additionally, the GUI had some lags and wasn’t nearly as well-developed as other options on the market, like Creality’s GUI for their Ender 3 S1 Pro machines.

Secondly, the printer has a filament runout sensor, which automatically tells the machine to stop printing when filament isn’t in the extruder. This is especially helpful for users printing large items, like cosplay armor sets or furniture pieces, because you don’t have to finish a print off of just one spool.

But what I loved even more than the runout sensor was the powerful 32-bit motherboard. Today, 32-bit boards are practically an industry standard, but the one inside the X-Plus 3 goes above and beyond, with 8 GB of onboard storage, 1 GB of RAM, and a speedy Cortex-A53 processor.

If you’re not caught up with the computer lingo this means the printer can process G-code very fast and handle large firmware packages.

Sadly, though, all of this motherboard power didn’t come with much internet capabilities. Furthermore, when I connected the printer to my home Wi-Fi (Ethernet port also available) and went to the proper URL on my laptop, I saw only a loading screen. Of course, this could be an issue with my internet provider, so don’t lose all your hope.

High-Temperature Hot End

On top of an enclosure, you’ll need a high-temperature hot end to print many high-grade filament materials, like ABS, PC, and Nylon.

Luckily, the X-Plus 3 comes with an extra hot end, specifically designed to handle higher temperatures for extended periods of time. This high-temperature hot end can reach as high as 350°C, which is more than enough for basically any filament material.

Changing the hot ends is also pretty easy. Though I couldn’t find the instructions for swapping the hot end, the process took me no more than 5-10 minutes. You just have to remove a few screws around the fan duct, slide out the original hot end assembly, and put in the new one!

Spring Steel Build Plate

Next, the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 has a spring steel build plate, which is becoming more common these days with consumer-grade printers.

For reference, spring steel is a flexible and magnetic material, so popping off prints is super easy because all you have to do is bend the build plate until the attached part releases.

The surface of the spring steel build plate is textured and rough. This was likely done to ensure adequate bed adhesion for higher-grade filament materials, like ABS and PC, which tend to have more bed adhesion issues.

And, before I stop talking about the bed, it’s worth pointing out that the X-Plus 3 has a small ledge near the back of the bed area. This is meant to guide the magnetic build plate into place so that it’s properly lined up with the frame of the printer. While this feature is very minuscule, it adds to the printer’s usability.

Software: Qidi Slicer

While buying a printer should be about the machine itself, it’s also important to review the software that you’ll have to use with the printer. For the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3, you have to use a special 3D slicer software called Qidi Slicer.

Qidi Slicer is a fork (altered version) of Slic3r, one of the original open-source 3D slicer programs. As a fork, most of Qidi Slicer’s functionality is the same as Slic3r, and you can find almost all of the same slicer settings and parameters.

However, there are a few minor changes, such as native compatibility for the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 and an adjusted user interface.

I had no issue using Qidi Slicer and was able to adjust the available settings to fine-tune the quality of the prints. The only problem I have with Qidi Slicer is that it’s not mainstream nor fully open-source. Because of this, the latest innovations in 3D slicing don’t usually reach Qidi Slicer for at least a few months.

And, if you want to use an alternative 3D slicer software, like Slic3r or Cura, you’ll have to manually configure the slicer for the printer. That’s because no other slicer besides Qidi Slicer natively supports the X-Plus 3, so there won’t be any default slicer profile for the machine in other programs.

Final Thoughts on the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3

Overall, the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 was a pleasure to review. The machine is equipped with many professional-level features, like a built-in enclosure and a swappable high-temperature hot end, that make it capable of printing a wide range of filament materials.

Because of this, the X-Plus 3 is a great option for advanced hobbyists looking to print with high-temperature materials.

Ideal for High Temperature Filaments

QIDI Tech X-PLUS 3

4.5

$799.00 $699.00

The Qidi Tech X-Plus 3 is an excellent choice for makers interested in rapid prototyping or who want to try out advanced filament materials like ABS or PC.

Moreover, the X-Plus 3 has a very professional design, and its features have been optimized to handle higher-grade filament materials with incredible speed.

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11/16/2025 02:01 pm GMT

Additionally, the printer is insanely speedy. The X-Plus 3’s Klipper-enabled firmware and CoreXY motion system make it capable of pumping out small 3D prints in under 20 minutes, which is extremely impressive.

While the X-Plus 3 is only natively compatible with the rather lacking Qidi Slicer software, this shouldn’t be too large of an inconvenience. Plus, the printer boasts many other benefits that will make it worth your while, like auto bed leveling, a spring steel build plate, and an easy-to-use LCD.

So, if you want a printer that can help you rapidly prototype for whatever project you’re working on, look no further than the Qidi Tech X-Plus 3!